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A suit, lounge suit, business suit or dress suit is a set of clothes comprising a suit jacket and trousers of identical textiles generally worn with a collared dress shirt, necktie, and dress shoes. A skirt suit is similar, but with a matching skirt instead of trousers. It is currently considered semi-formal wear or business wear in contemporary Western dress codes, however when the suit was originally developed it was considered an informal or more casual option compared to the prevailing clothing standards of aristocrats and businessmen. The lounge suit originated in 19th-century Britain as sportswear and British country clothing, which is why it was seen as more casual than citywear at that time, with the roots of the suit coming from early modern Western Europe formal court or military clothes. After replacing the black frock coat in the early 20th century as regular daywear, a sober one-coloured suit became known as a lounge suit.
A tailor is a person who makes or alters clothing, particularly in men's clothing. The Oxford English Dictionary dates the term to the thirteenth century.
Savile Row is a street in Mayfair, central London. Known principally for its traditional bespoke tailoring for men, the street has had a varied history that has included accommodating the headquarters of the Royal Geographical Society at 1 Savile Row, where significant British explorations to Africa and the South Pole were planned; and more recently, the Apple office of the Beatles at 3 Savile Row, where the band's final live performance was held on the roof of the building.
Bespoke tailoring or custom tailoring is clothing made to an individual buyer's specifications by a tailor. Bespoke garments are completely unique and created without the use of a pre-existing pattern, while made to measure uses a standard-sized pattern altered to fit the customer.
John Lobb Bootmaker is a business that manufactures and retails a luxury brand of shoes and boots, mainly for men but also for women. Leather goods such as wallets and belts are also available. Founded in 1849 by John Lobb (1829–95), the business has been in operation since 1866 in London and circa 1900 in Paris. John Lobb's son William took over the business, and after he died in 1916, the firm was led by Betsy Lobb.
Tommy Nutter was a British tailor, famous for reinventing the Savile Row suit in the 1960s.
Berluti is a French leather maker that manufactures menswear, especially the leather finishing of calfskin, kangaroo leather and alligator skin in its production of shoes and boots. It makes leather belts, bags, and wallets, as well as bespoke and ready-to-wear garments. Established in 1895 by Italian Alessandro Berluti of Marche, Berluti is based in Paris on rue Marbeuf. The brand was bought by LVMH in 1993. The latest creative director was Kris Van Assche (2018-2021).
Made-to-measure (MTM) typically refers to custom clothing that is cut and sewn using a standard-sized base pattern. Suits and sport coats are the most common garments made-to-measure. The fit of a made-to-measure garment is expected to be superior to that of a ready-to-wear garment because made-to-measure garments are constructed to fit each customer individually based on a few body measurements to customize the pre-existing pattern. Made-to-measure garments always involve some form of standardization in the pattern and manufacturing, whereas bespoke tailoring is entirely made from scratch based on a customer's specifications with far more attention to minute fit details and using multiple fittings during the construction process. All else being equal, a made-to-measure garment will be more expensive than a ready-to-wear garment but cheaper than a bespoke one. "Custom made" most often refers to MTM.
H. Huntsman & Sons is a high-end fashion house and tailor located at No. 11 Savile Row, London. It is known for its English bespoke menswear tailoring, cashmere ready-to-wear collections, and leather accessories.
Timothy Charles Peto Everest is a Welsh tailor and fashion designer. He moved to London in his early twenties to work with the Savile Row tailor Tommy Nutter. He then became one of the self proclaimed leaders of the New Bespoke Movement, which brought designer attitudes to the traditional skills of Savile Row tailoring.
Chester Barrie was a 'semi-bespoke' gentleman's tailor last located at No. 19 Savile Row, London.
Façonnable is a high-end men's and women's clothing brand founded in Nice, France by Jean Goldberg in 1950. It is currently owned by M1 Group, a holding company in Beirut, Lebanon.
Richard James is a bespoke Savile Row tailors and contemporary menswear company. It was founded in 1992 by designer Richard James, a graduate of Brighton College of Art and a former buyer for the London boutique Browns, and his business partner Sean Dixon. The Design and Brand Director is Toby Lamb, a graduate of Central Saint Martins. Richard James has won both the British Fashion Council's Menswear Designer of the Year and Bespoke Designer of the Year awards.
Raghavendra Rathore is the titular “Maharaja of Jodhpur” and an Indian luxury lifestyle designer, creative director, chief design officer and a hotelier. He is also the founder of the bespoke brand Raghavendra Rathore Jodhpur that has made a mark on the fashion scene for being solely responsible for putting the Jodhpuri Bandhgala and Jodhpuri Breeches on the global stage. He has his name in luxury bespoke menswear, Mr. Rathore was one of the Indian Designers to coin his namesake label as a ‘Made in India’ brand, translating traditional Indian ensembles for the global clientele such as the Emir of Qatar, Duchess of York, actors like Mr. Amitabh Bachchan, Mr. Saif Ali Khan and sportspersons like Mr. Virat Kohli. His costume designs for Hollywood movies like "The Gray Man" and Bollywood films like Oh my God, Eklavya & Khoobsurat.
Savile Row tailoring is men and women's bespoke tailoring that takes place on Savile Row and neighbouring streets in Mayfair, Central London. In 1846, Henry Poole, credited as being the "Founder of Savile Row", opened an entrance to his tailoring premises at No. 32 Savile Row. The term bespoke is understood to have originated in Savile Row when cloth for a suit was said to "be spoken for" by individual customers. The short street has been termed the "golden mile of tailoring", where customers have included Charles III, Winston Churchill, Lord Nelson, Napoleon III, Muhammad Ali Jinnah, Laurence Olivier and Duke Ellington.
Dege & Skinner is a bespoke gentleman's tailor and shirt-maker located at 10 Savile Row, London. Founded in 1865, they are one of the oldest, continually operated bespoke tailoring companies in the world. They have the Row's first and only permanent on-site, bespoke shirt service.
The word bespoke has evolved from a verb meaning 'to speak for something', to its contemporary usage as an adjective. Originally, the adjective bespoke described tailor-made suits and shoes. Later, it described anything commissioned to a particular specification. In contemporary usage, bespoke has become a general marketing and branding concept implying exclusivity and limited runs.
Dormeuil is a French family business founded in 1842 manufacturing high-end clothing fabrics, and owning its own brand of men's ready-to-wear since 2002. The Dormeuil family has run the business since its inception, and it is currently Dominic Dormeuil who is at the head of the group. The head office is located in France in the town of Wissous in the Île-de-France region. The "Minova" production unit is located in the United Kingdom, in Dewsbury in the county of Yorkshire. The company is also represented by subsidiaries in seven countries.
Rubinacci is an Italian luxury clothing company founded in Naples, Italy in 1932 by Gennaro Rubinacci under the name of the London House. The idea Rubinacci had was to create unstructured, unlined jackets meant to be worn outside of the office. Among his early clients were filmmaker Vittorio De Sica and journalist Curzio Malaparte.
Thuillier Paris, formerly known as Thuillier Chemisier, is a French fashion house created by the master shirtmaker Robert Thuillier in 1930. Also dubbed the "shirtmaker of Presidents", thanks to its several years serving at the Elysee Palace, this house has been fully active for two generations before being temporarily closed for a period of 13 years. In 2011, the heirs decided to relaunch the fashion house.
References
- ↑ "THE STORY OF CIFONELLI". Permanent Style. January 7, 2010.
- 1 2 Carter, Felicity (January 10, 2024). "An Ode To Morocco: Tailoring House Cifonelli Introduces Its Spring/Summer '24 Collection". Forbes.
- 1 2 "Cifonelli". Robb Report.
- 1 2 3 Scott, Nick (October 2020). "CIFONELLI CELEBRATES 140 YEARS IN THE BESPOKE BUSINESS".
- 1 2 Carter, Felicity (September 24, 2020). "Haute-Couture Tailoring House Cifonelli Marks 140 Years Of Success". Forbes.
- ↑ Bargeron, Sadie (August 4, 2023). "London's retail scene looks to China's Gen Z". Jing Daily.
- ↑ Our points of sale
