Cornelis Hayes or Heys was a Flemish jeweller who settled in London in 1524. [1]
Contents
Cornelis Hayes or Heys was a Flemish jeweller who settled in London in 1524. [1]
In 1524 uncut diamonds from the wreck of the Martyn at Chichester were brought to Hayes by the wife of Arnold Stotlz, a brewer of Portsmouth. Hayes reported this to the authorities. [2]
In January 1527 Hayes supplied a jewel with 19 diamonds "set in trueloves of gold", love knots, possibly for Anne Boleyn to wear on Valentine's day. [3]
Goldsmiths who supplied plate to Henry VIII, especially for the distribution of New Year's Day gifts to courtiers, include Hayes, Robert Amadas, William Davy, John Freman, Nicholas Trapp, and Morgan Wolf. [4] Hayes gave Henry VIII a pair of gloves "garnished with gold" and two small fresh unsalted surgeons for New Year's Day 1529. [5]
Hayes made gilt pommels with roses and royal ciphers for a bed that Henry VIII used while hunting. He sold 19 diamonds to Henry VIII for the head dress of Anne Boleyn in December 1530, and, on another occasion a gold girdle and an emerald ring. He also made spangles, a variety of sequin for embroidery for the costumes of the royal guard. [6] In 1531 he was allowed to expand his workshop with six foreign apprentices and 12 journeymen. [7]
Hayes repaired a sceptre for the Coronation of Anne Boleyn in 1533, [8] and in 1534 made a silver cradle, apparently for her second pregnancy. Figures of Adam and Eve were painted by Hans Holbein the younger, Hayes moulded apples in relief. [9]
Hayes converted the arms of Cardinal Wolsey on gilt plate to Henry's royal arms, and restored enamel work. Hayes exchanged a gilt pomegranate, an emblem of Catherine of Aragon, on the cover of a salt from the queen's pantry for a rose. He twice repaired a table salt from the royal pantry originally made for Richard III that had a figure of a "Morion", a representation of an African man holding the covered salt dish, which was vulnerable to damage. The account notes, "a salte of golde with a cover called the Murrion whereof the murrion hede was broken in the necke that holdeth up the salte", and "the leggs of the murrion was broken". Richard III had pledged the Murrion salt to Richard Gardiner for a loan, redeemed by Henry VII. [10]
In February 1535 Ralph Sadler and Stephen Vaughan made an inventory of jewels supplied by Hayes to Henry VIII, which includes 60 great pearls and 440 lesser pearls, with a crapault or toadstone, prized as an antidote to poison. [11]
Hayes and the Welsh goldsmith Morgan Phelippe alias Wolf provided silver plate for the entourage of Anne of Cleves. Hayes was appointed her household goldsmith. [12] "Cornellys Harys" supplied silver plate to Princess Mary in 1544. [13]
Hayes made a "laire" or water pot in 1537 with a monogram of "H" and "J" for Jane Seymour, engraved with a scene of Lucretia killing herself, and a pair of gilt bottles featuring dragons. These pieces were recorded in the inventory of Elizabeth I. [14]
Hayes may have realised designs for jewelry drawn by Hans Holbein. [15]
He lived in the parish of All-Hallows-the-Great. His workmen or servants in 1541 included, Lambert Wolf, John Pynne, John Barnett or Barnard, and Sympson Gladbeck. [16]
He married Anne, the widow of Oliver Claymound. He bequeathed his properties outside England, "beyond sea", to his friends the glazier Galyon Hone and the goldsmith Paul Fryling, who were to serve as overseers of his will.
James VI and I gave two great water pots that Hayes had made to Juan Fernández de Velasco y Tovar, 5th Duke of Frías, Constable of Castile, in 1604. [17] Drawings were made of these treasures, and water pots made by William Jefferies in 1605 acquired by the Tsar, Michael of Russia, from Fabian Smith alias Ulyanov in 1629 may be replicas of Hayes's work. These pots are in the Kremlin Armoury Museum. [18]
Some replicas of the silver plate were made in 1608 and the Auditor Francis Gofton supervised the commission with instructions for the Privy Council of England. [19]
The Kremlin pots have dragon spouts and snake handles, as did another pot listed in Elizabeth's inventory, and two such pots appear in an inventory of 1607 drawn up by the goldsmith John Williams. [20]
Jane Seymour was Queen of England as the third wife of King Henry VIII from their marriage on 30 May 1536 until her death the next year. She became queen following the execution of Henry's second wife, Anne Boleyn, who was accused by Henry of adultery after failing to produce the male heir he so desperately desired. Jane, however, died of postnatal complications less than two weeks after the birth of her only child, the future King Edward VI. She was the only wife of Henry to receive a queen's funeral; and he was later buried alongside her remains in St George's Chapel, Windsor Castle.
French hood is the English name for a type of elite woman's headgear that was popular in Western Europe in roughly the first half of the 16th century.
A dress hook is a decorative clothing accessory of the medieval and Tudor periods used to fasten outer garments or to drape up skirts. Made of base metal or precious silver and silver-gilt, dress hooks are documented in wills and inventories, and surviving hooks have been identified in the archaeological record throughout England.
John Skut or Scut was a royal tailor during the reign of Henry VIII of England, working for his queens consort and other courtiers. He also made costumes for the revels and masques at court.
Jane Foole, also known as Jane The Foole, Jane, The Queen's Fool, "Jeanne le Fol" or "Jane Hir Fole", was an English court fool. She was the fool of queens Catherine Parr and Mary I, and possibly also of Anne Boleyn.
Costume and gold and silver plate belonging to Elizabeth I were recorded in several inventories, and other documents including rolls of New Year's Day gifts. Arthur Jefferies Collins published the Jewels and Plate of Queen Elizabeth I: The Inventory of 1574 from manuscripts in 1955. The published inventory describes jewels and silver-plate belonging to Elizabeth with detailed references to other source material. Two inventories of Elizabeth's costume and some of her jewellery were published by Janet Arnold in Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlocke'd.
A partlet was a 16th-century fashion accessory. The partlet was a sleeveless garment worn over the neck and shoulders, either worn over a dress or worn to fill in a low neckline.
Sir Francis Gofton was an English courtier and administrator. He was an auditor of royal accounts and jewels, Chief Auditor of the Imprest from 1597 and Auditor of Mint from August 1603. Gofton acquired the manor of Heathrow, and houses in Stockwell and West Ham. He was often called "Auditor Gofton". The surname is frequently transcribed as "Goston" or "Guston"
An inventory of the jewels of Mary I of England, known as Princess Mary or the Lady Mary in the years 1542 to 1546, was kept by her lady in waiting Mary Finch. The manuscript is now held by the British Library. It was published by Frederic Madden in 1831. Some pieces are listed twice. The British Library also has an inventory of the jewels she inherited on coming to the throne in 1553.
Hans of Antwerp was a goldsmith and merchant working in Tudor London. He supplied silver plate and jewels to the court of Henry VIII.
Several documents list the jewels of Margaret Tudor, daughter of Henry VII of England and Elizabeth of York. Margaret married James IV of Scotland in 1503.
Robert Mangot was a French goldsmith who supplied the royal court and Mary, Queen of Scots. He was a son of the goldsmith Pierre Mangot who worked for Francis I of France.
Oes or owes were metallic O-shaped rings or eyelets sewn on to clothes and furnishing textiles for decorative effect. Made of gold, silver, or copper, they were used on clothing and furnishing fabrics and were smaller than modern sequins. They were made either from rings of wire or punched out of a sheet of metal.
Edward Cary or Carey or Carye was an English courtier and Master of the Jewel Office for Elizabeth I and James VI and I.
A silkwoman was a woman in medieval, Tudor, and Stuart England who traded in silks and other fine fabrics. London silkwomen held some trading rights independently from their husbands and were exempted from some of the usual customs and laws of coverture. The trade and craft of the silkwoman was encouraged by a statute of Henry VI of England as a countermeasure to imports of silk thread, and a suitable occupation for "young gentlewomen and other apprentices".
A chamberer was a female attendant of an English queen regnant, queen consort, or princess. There were similar positions in aristocratic households.
Margery Lyster or Lister, nee Horsman was an English courtier. She is known as a member of the households of three queens of England; Catherine of Aragon, Anne Boleyn and Jane Seymour.
Mother of the Maids was a position at the English royal court. The Mother of the Maids was responsible for the well-being and decorum of maids of honour, young gentlewomen in the household of a queen regnant or queen consort.
William Ibgrave was an embroiderer working for the English royal court.
At the Tudor and Stuart royal courts in Britain it was traditional to give gifts on New Year's Day, on 1 January. Records of these gift exchanges survive, and provide information about courtiers and their relative status. A similar custom at the French court was known as the étrenne. Historians often analyse these gift economies following the ideas of the anthropologist Marcel Mauss and Bronisław Malinowski's description of the Kula ring.