Cut and sew

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The term cut and sew is a manufacturing process used in the making of custom garments within the fashion industry. [1] A whole piece of any type of fabric is first placed on a cutting table or run through a cutting machine. A garment piece or shape is then cut out, which is next sent for sewing through the garment assembly. A cut and sewn garment can include any custom measurements and fabric. This is not a pre-made blank garment. Cut and Sew manufacturing includes the following steps: Pattern Making, Maker Making, Cutting, Sewing, Finishing, and Quality Control.

The term is prevalent in the urban fashion industry, where designers can either have a design screen printed on a pre-made garment, such as a t-shirt or hooded sweatshirt, or have the entire garment created from scratch. In the latter case, the designer of the graphic also played a role in the creation of the garment itself. [2] Cut and sew garments are generally of higher quality and price than a standard mass-produced item.[ citation needed ] Brands like A Bathing Ape, Diamond Supply Co., Marc Ecko and Kanati Clothing Company have 'cut and sew' lines, which are most commonly items like button up shirts and other higher end clothing items instead of items like t-shirts.

In the apparel manufacturing industry, "cut and sew" refers to cutting and sewing garments from purchased fabric, as distinct from knitting fabric and then cutting and sewing that knit fabric into garments. [3] In a way, this manufacturing process is a more efficient way of making clothing as opposed to weaving, sewing, crocheting and knitting by hand, since it is machine operated. Before this, some fabrics used to be turned into a garment on things like a loom and had to take on its shape at the same time. Material like leather used to require special thread and thicker needles as well as a sharper tool to cut it which now can be done through this process with such powerful machines. The cut and sew manufacturing process is essential to apparel because it allows people to have more control over designs/patterns and allows them to be as creative as can be due to its flexibility.

The process of working with a cut and sew factory would start with sending them a tech pack and/or providing a sew-by sample. You will also need to provide fabric and any trimmings you wish to add to your garment. You then get a pre-production sample where you can make adjustments if needed or send through for production. The pros of working with a cut and sew factory is having more room for customization and creating your own unique garment.

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">Sewing machine</span> Machine used to stitch fabric

A sewing machine is a machine used to sew fabric and materials together with thread. Sewing machines were invented during the first Industrial Revolution to decrease the amount of manual sewing work performed in clothing companies. Since the invention of the first sewing machine, generally considered to have been the work of Englishman Thomas Saint in 1790, the sewing machine has greatly improved the efficiency and productivity of the clothing industry.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Sewing</span> Craft of fastening or attaching objects using stitches made with a needle and thread

Sewing is the craft of fastening or attaching objects using stitches made with a sewing needle and thread. Sewing is one of the oldest of the textile arts, arising in the Paleolithic era. Before the invention of spinning yarn or weaving fabric, archaeologists believe Stone Age people across Europe and Asia sewed fur and leather clothing using bone, antler or ivory sewing-needles and "thread" made of various animal body parts including sinew, catgut, and veins.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Machine embroidery</span> Technique of embroidering with a sewing machine or purpose-made embroidering machine

Machine embroidery is an embroidery process whereby a sewing machine or embroidery machine is used to create patterns on textiles. It is used commercially in product branding, corporate advertising, and uniform adornment. It is also used in the fashion industry to decorate garments and apparel. Machine embroidery is used by hobbyists and crafters to decorate gifts, clothing, and home decor. Examples include designs on quilts, pillows, and wall hangings.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Button</span> Small fastener

A button is a fastener that joins two pieces of fabric together by slipping through a loop or by sliding through a buttonhole.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Tailor</span> A person who makes, repairs, or alters clothing professionally

A tailor is a person who makes or alters clothing, particularly in men's clothing. The Oxford English Dictionary dates the term to the thirteenth century.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Frog (fastening)</span> Fastening in the form of an ornamental knot

A frog is a type of ornamental braiding closure made out of cord, consisting of a button and a loop; it is used to fasten garments without creating an overlap. Its purpose is to act as a fastener as well as providing a decorative closure for the garment. It is especially used on the cheongsam, where the frog represents the cultural essence of the dress.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Dressmaker</span> Person who makes custom clothing for women

A dressmaker, also known as a seamstress, is a person who makes clothing for women, such as dresses, blouses, and evening gowns. Dressmakers were historically known as mantua-makers, and are also known as a modiste or fabrician.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Pattern (sewing)</span> Template from which the parts of a garment are traced onto fabric before being cut out

In sewing and fashion design, a pattern is the template from which the parts of a garment are traced onto woven or knitted fabrics before being cut out and assembled. Patterns are usually made of paper, and are sometimes made of sturdier materials like paperboard or cardboard if they need to be more robust to withstand repeated use. The process of making or cutting patterns is sometimes compounded to the one-word Patternmaking, but it can also be written pattern(-)making or pattern cutting.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Knitted fabric</span> Textile material made using knitting techniques, often by machine knitting

Knitted fabric is a textile that results from knitting, the process of inter-looping of yarns or inter-meshing of loops. Its properties are distinct from woven fabric in that it is more flexible and can be more readily constructed into smaller pieces, making it ideal for socks and hats.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Selvage</span> Narrow edge of a woven fabric parallel to its length

A selvage or selvedge is a "self-finished" edge of a piece of fabric which keeps it from unraveling and fraying. The term "self-finished" means that the edge does not require additional finishing work, such as hem or bias tape, to prevent fraying.

The manufacture of textiles is one of the oldest of human technologies. To make textiles, the first requirement is a source of fiber from which a yarn can be made, primarily by spinning. The yarn is processed by knitting or weaving, which turns yarn into cloth. The machine used for weaving is the loom. For decoration, the process of colouring yarn or the finished material is dyeing. For more information of the various steps, see textile manufacturing.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Fashion design</span> Art of applying design and aesthetics to clothing and accessories

Fashion design is the art of applying design, aesthetics, clothing construction and natural beauty to clothing and its accessories. It is influenced by culture and different trends, and has varied over time and place. "A fashion designer creates clothing, including dresses, suits, pants, and skirts, and accessories like shoes and handbags, for consumers. He or she can specialize in clothing, accessory, or jewelry design, or may work in more than one of these areas."

Made-to-measure (MTM) typically refers to custom clothing that is cut and sewn using a standard-sized base pattern. Suits and sport coats are the most common garments made-to-measure. The fit of a made-to-measure garment is expected to be superior to that of a ready-to-wear garment because made-to-measure garments are constructed to fit each customer individually based on a few body measurements to customize the pre-existing pattern. Made-to-measure garments always involve some form of standardization in the pattern and manufacturing, whereas bespoke tailoring is entirely made from scratch based on a customer's specifications with far more attention to minute fit details and using multiple fittings during the construction process. All else being equal, a made-to-measure garment will be more expensive than a ready-to-wear garment but cheaper than a bespoke one. "Custom made" most often refers to MTM.

Advanced Fashion Design and Technology is a fashion-related manufacturing process that integrates new technologies.

Sewing is the craft of fastening or attaching objects using stitches made with needle and thread. Sewing is one of the oldest of the textile arts, arising in the Paleolithic Era. Although usually associated with clothing and household linens, sewing is used in a variety of crafts and industries, including shoemaking, upholstery, sailmaking, bookbinding and the manufacturing of some kinds of sporting goods. Sewing is the fundamental process underlying a variety of textile arts and crafts, including embroidery, tapestry, quilting, appliqué and patchwork.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Seam (sewing)</span> Sewn join between two pieces of textile material

In sewing, a seam is the join where two or more layers of fabric, leather, or other materials are held together with stitches. Prior to the invention of the sewing machine, all sewing was done by hand. Seams in modern mass-produced household textiles, sporting goods, and ready-to-wear clothing are sewn by computerized machines, while home shoemaking, dressmaking, quilting, crafts, haute couture and tailoring may use a combination of hand and machine sewing.

Zero-waste fashion is defined as a sustainable fashion design strategy that aims to reduce or eliminate textile waste during the garment production process, particularly focusing on the pattern making and cutting stages. Zero-waste fashion can be divided into two general approaches: pre-consumer zero-waste fashion, which eliminates waste during manufacture, and post-consumer zero-waste fashion, which generates clothing from garments such as second-hand clothing. Historically, zero-waste models have been utilised in folk clothing, including the kimono, sari, and chiton, among others.

Dimensional stability pertains to a fabric's ability to maintain its initial size and shape even after undergoing wear and care, which is a desirable property. Textile manufacturing is based on the conversion of fiber into yarn, yarn into fabric, includes spinning, weaving, or knitting, etc. The fabric passes through many inevitable changes and mechanical forces during this journey. When the products are immersed in water, the water acts as a relaxing medium, and all stresses and strains are relaxed and the fabric tries to come back to its original state.

Natalie "Alabama" Chanin is an American fashion designer from Florence, Alabama. From 1976 until its closure in 2005, Tee-Jays Manufacturing was one of the largest employers in the Florence textile industry. Chanin's business now operates as a clothing manufacturer on the grounds of the former Tee-Jays company and is now a part of the zero-waste fashion movement. Her design company uses organic cotton fabric in their designs, which is said to be sourced sustainably from seed to fabric. Chanin's "open source" philosophy means that patterns and techniques for some of her garments are openly available through books and workshops.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Suay Sew Shop</span> Textile upcycling company in Los Angeles

Suay Sew Shop is a sustainable clothing and accessory manufacturing company based in Frogtown, Los Angeles. Through upcycling of textiles, Suay reclaims used garments and uses them to create new items.

References

  1. "Cut". CottonWorks. Retrieved 4 February 2024.
  2. Allaire, Christian (2020-09-10). "The Label Honoring Indigenous History Through Streetwear". Vogue. Retrieved 2020-10-21. [...] they are currently working on producing their first for-sale, cut-and-sew collection, which they plan to release in October. 'We're developing our own T-shirt and button-down patterns,' he says. 'Everything is going to be from scratch.'
  3. "1997 Economic Census, Manufacturing, Geographic Area Series". U.S. Department of Commerce, Economics and Statistics Administration, Bureau of the Census. 2000. pp. B-17. Retrieved 22 October 2020.