Exquisite Form

Last updated
Exquisite Form
Exquisite form logo.png
Product type Lingerie, undergarment
Owner Fruit of the Loom (Berkshire Hathaway)
CountryU.S.
Introduced1945;79 years ago (1945)
MarketsWorldwide
Previous ownersExquisite Form Industries
Bestform Group
VF Corporation
Tagline"Trusted by real women since 1945"
Website exquisiteform.com

Exquisite Form is an American clothing brand for women's intimates, particularly bras and shapewear for full-figured women. The brand is owned by Vanity Fair Brands, a division of Fruit of the Loom.

Contents

The brand began in 1945 with the founding of Exquisite Form Industries Inc. in New York City. Its principal products at the time were brassieres, garter belts and girdles. [1]

History

The company was founded in 1945 in New York City. It was founded with the help of its head designer Lillian Hunau, who also had a special wiring and bust shaping [2] patent which began featuring in bras the following year. 1945 was also the year Exquisite Form became one of the first major brassiere companies to advertise in Ebony Magazine. [3] [4]

With the growth in business came growth in marketing. By the end of the 1950s, Exquisite Form's advertising budget grew to over $2 million for television advertising. [5] By 1959, the company was doing product placement in movies with a multimillion-dollar campaign for the movie Happy Anniversary. [6] [7]

Rudi Gernreich and the "No Bra"

Austrian-born American fashion designer Rudi Gernreich preferred that his designs should be worn braless. [8] In October 1964, Gernreich collaborated with Exquisite Form to create "No Bra". The bra was made of sheer fabric without underwires or lining of any kind. Unlike contemporary bras, his design allowed breasts to assume their natural shape, rather than being molded into an aesthetic ideal. [9] [10]

It was a soft-cup, light-weight, seamless, sheer nylon tricot and elastic bra only available for small-breasted women. It came in three sheer colors: powder puff, black, and white, and in sizes 32 to 36, A and B cups. [11] [12] It had a single hook in the back.

The No Bra was a big departure from the sculpted, bullet-shaped bosom of the previous decade. It was quite similar to the original bra of the 1920s and like the first modern bra invented by Mary Phelps Jacob, two handkerchiefs attached to a band and tied around the chest. Gernreich's no-bra was little more than that. Both the 1920s and the 1960s celebrated the stick-like figure of adolescence, and with that meant small, flat breasts. [13]

His minimalist bra revolutionized brassiere design, initiating a trend toward more natural shapes and soft, sheer fabrics. [14] [15]

The retail success of the No Bra was followed in 1965 with the next design, a "no-side" bra to accommodate dresses with deep armholes. It had a narrow stretch band around the torso that allowed women to wear open-sleeved garments without displaying a bra band. The sheer cups were cut part of the bias and part of the half-bias. He also produced a "No Front" maillot design with a deep, plunging front for slit-to-the-waist necklines, and a "No-Back" long-line version that was anchored using contoured stretch-waistband that allowed a woman to wear a backless dress. [16]

Fully Product Line

In 1970, Exquisite Form registered and launched their trademark "Fully" line of bras, focusing the brand on more full-figured products. [17]

Acquisitions

Bestform Group

In 1996, following bankruptcy of Exquisite Form Industries, the Bestform Group purchased the Exquisite Form label.[ citation needed ]

VF Corporation

In 1998, VF corporation bought the Bestform Group, including the Bestform, Exquisite From and Lily of France brands. This bolstered their portfolio of intimates brands that, at the time, consisted of only Vanity Fair and Vassarette. [18] [19] [20] [21]

Fruit of the Loom

In 2007, in a cash deal valued at $350 million, Fruit of the Loom purchased the entire Vanity Fair Brands intimate apparel division from VF Corporation. [22] [23]

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Lingerie</span> Womens undergarments including sleepwear

Lingerie is a category of primarily women's clothing including undergarments, sleepwear, and lightweight robes. The choice of the word is often motivated by an intention to imply that the garments are alluring, fashionable, or both. In a 2015 US survey, 75% of women reported having worn "sexy lingerie" in their lifetime.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Monokini</span> Topless swimsuit designed by Rudi Gernreich

The monokini was designed by Rudi Gernreich in 1964, consisting of only a brief, close-fitting bottom and two thin straps; it was the first women's topless swimsuit. His revolutionary and controversial design included a bottom that "extended from the midriff to the upper thigh" and was "held up by shoestring laces that make a halter around the neck." Some credit Gernreich's design with initiating, or describe it as a symbol of, the sexual revolution.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Rudi Gernreich</span> Austrian-born American fashion designer (1922–1985)

Rudolf "Rudi" Gernreich was an Austrian-born American fashion designer whose avant-garde clothing designs are generally regarded as the most innovative and dynamic fashion of the 1960s. He purposefully used fashion design as a social statement to advance sexual freedom, producing clothes that followed the natural form of the female body, freeing them from the constraints of high fashion.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Fruit of the Loom</span> American clothing manufacturer

Fruit of the Loom is an American company that manufactures clothing, particularly casual wear and underwear. The company's world headquarters is located in Bowling Green, Kentucky. Since 2002, it has been a wholly owned subsidiary of Berkshire Hathaway.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Wonderbra</span> Trademark for an underwired brassiere

The Wonderbra is a type of push-up underwire brassiere that gained worldwide prominence in the 1990s. Although the Wonderbra name was first trademarked in the U.S. in 1955, the brand was developed in Canada. Moses (Moe) Nadler, founder and majority owner of the Canadian Lady Corset Company, licensed the trademark for the Canadian market in 1939. By the 1960s the Canadian Lady brand had become known in Canada as "Wonderbra, the company." In 1961 the company introduced the Model 1300 plunge push-up bra. This bra became one of the best-selling Canadian styles and is virtually identical to today's Wonderbra.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Cleavage (breasts)</span> Separation between human breasts

Cleavage is the narrow depression or hollow between the breasts of a woman. The superior portion of cleavage may be accentuated by clothing such as a low-cut neckline that exposes the division, and often the term is used to describe the low neckline itself, instead of the term décolletage. Joseph Breen, head of the U.S. film industry's Production Code Administration, coined the term in its current meaning when evaluating the 1943 film The Outlaw, starring Jane Russell. The term was explained in Time magazine on August 5, 1946. It is most commonly used in the parlance of Western female fashion to refer to necklines that reveal or emphasize décolletage.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">VF Corporation</span> American apparel company

VF Corporation is an American global apparel and footwear company founded in 1899 by John Barbey and headquartered in Denver, Colorado. The company's 13 brands are organized into three categories: Outdoor, Active and Work. In 2015, the company controlled 55% of the U.S. backpack market with the JanSport, Eastpak, Timberland, and The North Face brands.

Margaret Anne "Peggy" Moffitt is a former American model and actress. During the 1960s, she worked very closely with fashion designer Rudi Gernreich, and developed a signature style that featured heavy makeup and an asymmetrical hair cut.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Handbra</span> Covering nipples and areolas with ones hands or arms

A handbra is the practice of covering female nipples and areolae with hands or arms. It often is done in compliance with censors' guidelines, public authorities and community standards when female breasts are required to be covered in film or other media. If the arms are used instead of the hands the expression is arm bra. The use of long hair for this purpose is called a hair bra.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">History of bras</span>

The history of bras is closely tied to the social status of women, the evolution of fashion, and shifting views of the female body over time.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Male bra</span> Brassiere designed for men

Male bra – also known as a compression bra, compression vest, or gynecomastia vest – refers to brassieres that are worn by men. Men sometimes develop breasts and the estimates of those with the condition are presented as a range "because the definition of gynecomastia varies and the method of surveying varies." Although there are options for treating gynecomastia, some elect surgery to reduce their breasts or wear a male bra. Male bras typically flatten rather than lift.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Bra size</span> Measure (usually 2 factors) to determine proper bra fit

Bra size indicates the size characteristics of a bra. While there is a number of bra sizing systems in use around the world, the bra sizes usually consist of a number, indicating the size of the band around the woman's torso, and one or more letters that indicate the breast cup size. Bra cup sizes were invented in 1932 while band sizes became popular in the 1940s. For convenience, because of the impracticality of determining the size dimensions of each breast, the volume of the bra cup, or cup size, is based on the difference between band length and over-the-bust measurement.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Bandeau</span> Strapless form of brassiere or swimsuit top

A bandeau is a garment comprising, in appearance, a strip of cloth. Today, the term frequently refers to a garment that wraps around a woman's breasts. It is usually part of a bikini in sports or swimwear. It is similar to a tube top, but narrower. It is usually strapless, sleeveless, and off the shoulder. Bandeaux are commonly made from elastic material to stop them from slipping down, or are tied or pinned at the back or front. In the first half of the 20th century, a "bandeau" was a narrow band worn by women to bind the hair, or as part of a headdress.

A bra, short for brassiere or brassière, is a form-fitting undergarment that is primarily used to support and cover a woman's breasts. A typical bra consists of a chest band that wraps around the torso, supporting two breast cups that are held in place by shoulder straps. A bra usually fastens in the back, using a hook and eye fastener, although bras are available in a large range of styles and sizes, including front-fastening and backless designs. Some bras are designed for specific functions, such as nursing bras to facilitate breastfeeding or sports bras to minimize discomfort during exercise.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Training bra</span> Lightweight brassiere for people who have begun to develop breasts

A training bra is a lightweight brassiere designed for girls who have begun to develop breasts, at Tanner stage II and III. The training bra is intended to be worn during puberty when the breasts are not yet large enough to fit a standard-sized bra. Training bras often provide minimal or no support, and may serve aesthetic purposes to fulfill cultural norms and local beauty standards.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Underwear</span> Clothes worn under other clothes

Underwear, underclothing, or undergarments are items of clothing worn beneath outer clothes, usually in direct contact with the skin, although they may comprise more than a single layer. They serve to keep outer clothing from being soiled or damaged by bodily excretions, to lessen the friction of outerwear against the skin, to shape the body, and to provide concealment or support for parts of it. In cold weather, long underwear is sometimes worn to provide additional warmth. Special types of undergarments have religious significance. Some items of clothing are designed as undergarments, while others, such as T-shirts and certain types of shorts, are appropriate both as underwear and outerwear. If made of suitable material or textile, some underwear can serve as nightwear or swimwear, and some undergarments are intended for sexual attraction or visual appeal.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Bikini variants</span> Swimsuits based on or influenced by the bikini

Many stylistic variations of the bikini have been created. A regular bikini is a two-piece swimsuit that together covers the wearer's crotch, buttocks, and breasts. Some bikini designs cover larger portions of the wearer's body while other designs provide minimal coverage. Topless variants are still sometimes considered bikinis, although they are technically not a two-piece swimsuit.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Underwire bra</span> Brassiere with curved wire inserts to support and define the breasts

An underwire bra is a brassiere that utilizes a thin, semi-circular strip of rigid material fitted inside the brassiere fabric to help lift, separate, shape, and support a woman's breasts. The wire may be made of metal, plastic, or resin. It is sewn into the bra fabric and under each cup, from the center gore to under the wearer's armpit. Many different brassiere designs incorporate an underwire, including shelf bras, demi bras, nursing bras, and bras built into other articles of clothing, such as tank tops, dresses and swimsuits.

Kestos is a British lingerie brand founded in London in 1925 by British designer Rosamund Lilian Klin, (1899-1949) the wife of a Russian artist living in London. Kestos' major innovation to the feminine underwear in the 1930s was the development of the two separate cups model. Rosamund Klin, director of the Kestos Corset Company, started experimenting with a pair of hankies, just like Caresse Crosby back in 1913. Kestos' bra was the first commercially produced brassiere that had two distinct and defined cups and "the Kestos" became a generic trademark bra. Kestos was distributed in the US, UK, Canada, Australia, France as well as some other European countries and was popular through the 1930s, 1940s and into the early 1950s. The Copmpany went into liquidation in 1967 prior to the death of the Chairman Leo Klin (1877-1967).

References

  1. "Ravel Law". www.ravellaw.com. Archived from the original on 2021-09-11. Retrieved 2017-08-15.
  2. US 2478103,Hunau, Lillian,"Woman's bust shaping and supporting garment",published 1949-08-02
  3. Farrell-Beck, Jane; Gau, Colleen (2002-10-22). Uplift: The Bra in America. University of Pennsylvania Press. ISBN   0812218353.
  4. "Exquisite Form 'Circloform Floating Action' Brassiere Advert". The Underpinnings Museum. Retrieved 2017-08-16.
  5. Inc, Nielsen Business Media (1957-07-01). Billboard. Nielsen Business Media, Inc.{{cite book}}: |last= has generic name (help)
  6. Segrave, Kerry (2004-06-08). Product Placement in Hollywood Films: A History. McFarland. ISBN   9780786481637.
  7. Zinsser, William Knowlton (1960). Seen any good films lately?. Hammond.
  8. ""The Total Look: Rudi Gernreich, Peggy Moffitt, and William Claxton", Cincinnati Art Museum, through May 24, 2015". March 24, 2015. Archived from the original on March 4, 2016. Retrieved October 5, 2015.
  9. "Gernreich, Rudi" . Retrieved March 20, 2013.
  10. Farrell-Beck, Jane; Gau, Colleen (2002-10-22). Uplift: The Bra in America. University of Pennsylvania Press. ISBN   0812218353.
  11. "No Bra, No Way? Vintage Rudi Gernreich Lingerie". February 17, 2012. Retrieved October 12, 2015.
  12. "The Bullet Bra is Back". tumblr.com. March 26, 2012. Archived from the original on December 22, 2015. Retrieved May 30, 2015.
  13. "No-Bra (Rudi Gernreich)". Skooldays. Retrieved March 19, 2013.
  14. "The "No-Bra" Brassiere". Victoria and Albert Museum. Retrieved March 18, 2013.
  15. Moffitt, Peggy; Claxton, William (1999) [1991]. The Rudi Gernreich Book. Köln: Taschen. ISBN   978-3-822871-97-3. OCLC   717817845. Archived from the original on 2015-03-15. Retrieved 2017-07-19.
  16. "Rudi Gernreich's 'No-Bra' Bra... Comes In Threes". Playgirl . October 1965. pp. 32–35. Retrieved May 30, 2015.
  17. "FULLY Trademark of EXQUISITE FORM INDUSTRIES, INC. - Registration Number 0892926 - Serial Number 72323281 :: Justia Trademarks". trademarks.justia.com. Retrieved 2017-07-24.
  18. "History of VF Corporation – FundingUniverse". www.fundinguniverse.com. Retrieved 2017-07-24.
  19. News, Bloomberg (1997-11-26). "COMPANY NEWS; VF AGREES TO ACQUIRE BESTFORM TO DOUBLE LINGERIE SALES". The New York Times. ISSN   0362-4331 . Retrieved 2017-08-16.{{cite news}}: |last= has generic name (help)
  20. "VF Corporation". www.retailcareerhub.com. Retrieved 2017-08-16.
  21. Staff, WWD (1998-01-09). "Article January 9, 1998". WWD. Retrieved 2017-08-16.
  22. "Fruit of the Loom Buys Some VF Lines". The New York Times. Reuters. 2007-01-24. ISSN   0362-4331 . Retrieved 2017-07-24.
  23. "Fruit of the Loom Buys Some VF Lines". The New York Times. Reuters. 2007-01-24. ISSN   0362-4331 . Retrieved 2017-08-16.