Featherwork

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A Hawaiian 'ahu'ula (feathered cape). Ethnologisches Museum Dahlem Berlin Mai 2006 008.jpg
A Hawaiian ‘ahu‘ula (feathered cape).
Aztec feather shield 'meander and sun" (around 1520, Landesmuseum Wurttemberg) Federschild-Sonne-1rhb-cr-b.jpg
Aztec feather shield 'meander and sun" (around 1520, Landesmuseum Württemberg)

Featherwork is the working of feathers into a work of art or cultural artifact. This was especially elaborate among the peoples of Oceania and the Americas, such as the Incas and Aztecs.

Feathered cloaks and headdresses include the ʻahuʻula capes and mahiole helmets were worn by Hawaiian royalty; many are now on display at the Bishop Museum, and other museums across the world. Kāhili are a type of feathered standard, another symbol of royalty. The introduction of foreign species, overhunting, and environment changes drove birds with desirable feathers, such as the ‘ō‘ō and mamo, to extinction, although the ʻiʻiwi managed to survive despite its popularity.

Mexican feather work was a Pre-Columbian art form which was continued after the Conquest of the Aztec Empire, originally organized by the Spanish missionaries into a luxury export trade, sending objects back to Europe. Immediately after the conquest existing objects such as Montezuma's headdress, now in Vienna, were admired in the courts of Europe.

Although featherwork is primarily used for clothing, headdresses, ceremonial shields, and tapestries, the Pomo peoples of California are famous for the minute featherwork of their grass baskets, many of which are on display at the National Museum of the American Indian in Washington.

The Maori of New Zealand used featherwork to construct cloaks for clothing and to decorate kete (bags) and weapons.

The Cherokee people of Southeastern Northern America used swan or turkey feathers to make capes.

See also

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">Aztecs</span> Ethnic group of central Mexico and its civilization

The Aztecs were a Mesoamerican civilization that flourished in central Mexico in the post-classic period from 1300 to 1521. The Aztec people included different ethnic groups of central Mexico, particularly those groups who spoke the Nahuatl language and who dominated large parts of Mesoamerica from the 14th to the 16th centuries. Aztec culture was organized into city-states (altepetl), some of which joined to form alliances, political confederations, or empires. The Aztec Empire was a confederation of three city-states established in 1427: Tenochtitlan, the capital city of the Mexica or Tenochca, Tetzcoco, and Tlacopan, previously part of the Tepanec empire, whose dominant power was Azcapotzalco. Although the term Aztecs is often narrowly restricted to the Mexica of Tenochtitlan, it is also broadly used to refer to Nahua polities or peoples of central Mexico in the prehispanic era, as well as the Spanish colonial era (1521–1821). The definitions of Aztec and Aztecs have long been the topic of scholarly discussion ever since German scientist Alexander von Humboldt established its common usage in the early 19th century.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Cloak</span> Long, loose overgarment fastening at the neck

A cloak is a type of loose garment worn over clothing, mostly but not always as outerwear for outdoor wear, serving the same purpose as an overcoat, protecting the wearer from the weather. It may form part of a uniform. People in many different societies may wear cloaks. Over time cloak designs have changed to match fashion and available textiles.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Raincoat</span> Waterproof coat

A raincoat is a waterproof or water-resistant garment worn on the upper body to shield the wearer from rain. The term rain jacket is sometimes used to refer to raincoats with long sleeves that are waist-length. A rain jacket may be combined with a pair of rain pants to make a rainsuit. Rain clothing may also be in one piece, like a boilersuit. Raincoats, like rain ponchos, offer the wearer hands-free protection from the rain and elements; unlike the umbrella.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Pre-Columbian art</span> Art of the Pre-Columbian civilizations

Pre-Columbian art refers to the visual arts of indigenous peoples of the Caribbean, North, Central, and South Americas from at least 13,000 BCE to the European conquests starting in the late 15th and early 16th centuries. The pre-Columbian era continued for a time after these in many places, or had a transitional phase afterwards. Many types of perishable artifacts that were once very common, such as woven textiles, typically have not been preserved, but Precolumbian monumental sculpture, metalwork in gold, pottery, and painting on ceramics, walls, and rocks have survived more frequently.

Feather cloaks have been used by several cultures. It constituted noble and royal attire in § Hawaii and other Polynesian regions. It is a mythical bird-skin object that imparts power of flight upon the Gods in § Germanic mythology and legend, including the § Swan maidens account. In medieval Ireland, the chief poet was entitled to wear a feather cloak.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Jewellery in the Pacific</span>

Jewellery making in the Pacific started later than in other areas, due to relatively recent human settlement. Early Polynesian jewellery, which was made of bone, wood and other natural materials, has not survived. The precise start of island jewellery-making is difficult to pinpoint, due to many of the island nations' founders migrating there from other areas, such as Tahiti.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Mamo</span> Common name for several species of bird

Mamo or woowoo is a common name for two species of extinct birds. Together with the extant ʻIʻiwi they make up the genus Drepanis. These nectarivorous finches were endemic to Hawaii but are now extinct.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Aztec clothing</span> Clothing worn by Aztecs

Aztec clothing was worn by the Aztec people and varied according to aspects such as social standing and gender. The garments worn by Aztecs were also worn by other pre-Columbian peoples of central Mexico who shared similar cultural characteristics. The strict sumptuary laws in Aztec society dictated the type of fiber, ornamentation, and manner of wear of Aztec clothing. Clothing and cloth were immensely significant in the culture.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Hawaii mamo</span> Extinct species of bird

The Hawaiʻi mamo is an extinct species of Hawaiian honeycreeper. It was endemic to Hawaii Island. It became extinct due to habitat loss, mosquitoes, introduced predators such as the small Indian mongoose, and overcollecting.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Weltmuseum Wien</span> Anthropological museum in Austria

The Weltmuseum in Vienna is the largest anthropological museum in Austria, established in 1876. It is housed in a wing of the Hofburg Imperial Palace and holds a collection of more than 400,000 ethnographical and archaeological objects from Asia, Africa, Oceania, and America.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">ʻAhu ʻula</span> Cloak of featherwork worn by men and women of high rank in Ancient Hawaii

The ʻahu ʻula, and the mahiole were symbols of the highest rank of the chiefly aliʻi class of ancient Hawaii.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Nāhienaena's Paū</span>

Nāhiʻenaʻena's Pāʻū is the largest known piece of Hawaiian feather work. It is a feather skirt (pāʻū) made for Princess Nāhiʻenaʻena.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Paraguayan Indigenous art</span> Art created by the indigenous peoples of Paraguay

Paraguayan Indigenous art is the visual art created by the indigenous peoples of Paraguay. While indigenous artists embrace contemporary Western art media, their arts also include pre-Columbian art forms. Indigenous art includes ceramics, baskets, weaving and threading, feather art and leather work. It is a hybrid nature includes the embroideries, lace, woodcarving and different metal products. Paraguay is particularly known for its indigenous featherwork and basket weaving.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Moctezuma's headdress</span> Aztec featherwork headdress

Moctezuma's headdress is a historical artifact that has been long disputed in terms of origin, patron, and function. The object's function was perhaps featherwork headdress or military device. In the Nahuatl languages, it is known as a quetzalāpanecayōtl (ketsalaːpaneˈkajoːtɬ). Tradition holds that it belonged to Moctezuma II, the Aztec emperor at the time of the Spanish conquest. The provenance of the headdresses remains uncertain, and even its identity as a headdress has been questioned. It is made of quetzal and other feathers with sewn-on gold detailing. The object has been in private Austrian collections since the end of the sixteenth century and is now in the Weltmuseum in Vienna, Austria and remains an issue of dispute between Austria and Mexico, as Mexico has asked for the return of the object.

<i>Double-headed serpent</i> Aztec sculpture primarily made of turquoise

The Double-headed serpent is an Aztec sculpture. It is a snake with two heads composed of mostly turquoise pieces applied to a wooden base. It came from Aztec Mexico and might have been worn or displayed in religious ceremonies. The mosaic is made of pieces of turquoise, spiny oyster shell and conch shell. The sculpture is at the British Museum. Ancient Aztecs have also termed this creature as 'Mansee' which translates as 'The Voice of Heart'.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Mahiole</span>

Hawaiian feather helmets, known as mahiole in the Hawaiian language, were worn with feather cloaks. These were symbols of the highest rank reserved for the men of the aliʻi, the chiefly class of Hawaii. There are examples of this traditional headgear in museums around the world. At least sixteen of these helmets were collected during the voyages of Captain Cook. These helmets are made from a woven frame structure decorated with bird feathers and are examples of fine featherwork techniques. One of these helmets was included in a painting of Cook's death by Johann Zoffany.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">James Cook Collection: Australian Museum</span>

The Australian Museum's Cook Collection was acquired in 1894 when it was transferred from the Government of New South Wales. At that time it consisted of 115 artifacts collected on Captain James Cook's three voyages of discovery Throughout the Pacific Ocean, during the period 1768–1780, along with documents and memorabilia related to these voyages. Many of the ethnographic artifacts were collected at a time of first contact between Pacific Peoples and Europeans. In 1935 most of the documents and memorabilia were transferred to the Mitchell Library in the State Library of New South Wales. The provenance of the collection shows that the objects remained in the hands of Captain James Cook's widow, Elizabeth Cook and her descendants until 1886. In this year John Mackrell, the great nephew of Isaac Smith, Elizabeth Cook's cousin, organized the display of this collection at the request of the NSW Government at the Colonial and Indian Exhibition in London. In 1887 the London-based Agent-General for the New South Wales Government, Saul Samuel, bought John Mackrell's items and also acquired those items belonging to the other relatives Reverend Canon Frederick Bennett, Mrs Thomas Langton, H.M.C. Alexander and William Adams. The collection remained with the Colonial Secretary of NSW until 1894, when it was transferred to the Australian Museum.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Mexican featherwork</span> Pre-Hispanic artistic and decorative technique

Mexican featherwork, also called "plumería", was an important artistic and decorative technique in the pre-Hispanic and colonial periods in what is now Mexico. Although feathers have been prized and feather works created in other parts of the world, those done by the amanteca or feather work specialists impressed Spanish conquerors, leading to a creative exchange with Europe. Featherwork pieces took on European motifs in Mexico. Feathers and feather works became prized in Europe. The "golden age" for this technique as an art form was from just before the Spanish conquest to about a century afterwards.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Conservation and restoration of feathers</span> Process of protecting feathers

The conservation and restoration of feathers is the practice of maintaining and preserving feathers or featherwork objects, and requires knowledge of feather anatomy, properties, specialized care procedures, and environmental influences. This practice may be approached through preventive and/or interventive techniques.

Tupinambá cape 17th-century feathered cape

The Tupinambá cape, mantle, or cloak is a 17th-century feathered cape. It was made by the Tupinambás, an indigenous tribe of the Tupi people, who inhabited modern-day Brazil. It is made of bird feathers and vegetable fibres. The cape is held in the collections of the Musées Royaux d'Art et d'Histoire, Brussels. There are only eleven other Tupinambá capes from the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries extant today. The cape at the Musées Royaux d'Art et d'Histoire is the best preserved.