Foale and Tuffin was an English fashion design business established in London in 1961 by Marion Foale and Sally Tuffin. [2] The label became a part of the 1960s Swinging London scene. [3]
The designers had both studied at the Royal College of Art, graduating in 1961. Foale and Tuffin was born after they made an appointment to show two dresses to a buyer at Woollands 21 shop, next door to Harvey Nichols, after hearing they were looking for merchandise from young designers. Foale and Tuffin took three floors of a narrow house and shopfront in Carnaby Street. Shunning Paris fashion, they turned their design focus towards ‘fun’ clothes. They became known for their tailoring, creating long lean suits and coats, such as those worn by Susannah York in Kaleidoscope . [4] By 1963, Foale and Tuffin had fulfilled their ambition of running a successful business without the help of a man.
In 1962 Vogue magazine found their work, and chose a dress to be photographed. David Bailey took the shot, resulting in Foale and Tuffin's Vogue debut. Foale and Tuffin became a regular fixture of Marit Allen's groundbreaking 'Young Ideas' section in British Vogue, along with many other young designers such as John Bates, Bill Gibb, Gerald McCann, and Jean Muir. [5] In addition to publishing their work and promoting it, Allen showed her support by wearing the clothes herself. [1] Her Foale and Tuffin wardrobe was sold at auction in 2010. [6]
In 1963, Foale and Tuffin set up their first real premises in a little walkway called Marlborough Court, off Carnaby Street. Originally workrooms, this became their first shop.
As well as designing for the British market, along with Mary Quant, Foale and Tuffin designed for the large American retail chain J C Penney. [7] They also designed for the Puritan Fashion Corporation under a label called Paraphernalia, for which Betsey Johnson was already a designer. They embarked on whistle stop publicity tours around America, including Breakfast TV.
The last Foale and Tuffin collection, Coco Frills, came out in 1972. [8]
A book was published in October 2009, Foale and Tuffin: The Sixties. A Decade in Fashion by Iain R. Webb, published by ACC Publishing Group.
A miniskirt is a skirt with its hemline well above the knees, generally at mid-thigh level, normally no longer than 10 cm (4 in) below the buttocks; and a dress with such a hemline is called a minidress or a miniskirt dress. A micro-miniskirt or microskirt is a miniskirt with its hemline at the upper thigh, at or just below crotch or underwear level.
Dame Barbara Mary Quant, Mrs Plunket Greene, DBE, FCSD, RDI is an English fashion designer and fashion icon, who is of Welsh heritage.
Sir Norman Bishop Hartnell, KCVO was a leading British fashion designer, best known for his work for the ladies of the royal family. Hartnell gained the Royal Warrant as Dressmaker to Queen Elizabeth The Queen Mother in 1940; and Royal Warrant as Dressmaker to Queen Elizabeth II in 1957.
The Fashion and Textile Museum is the only museum in the UK dedicated to showcasing contemporary fashion and textile design. The Museum is committed to presenting varied, creative and engaging exhibitions, alongside an exciting selection of educational courses, talks, events and workshops. In place of a permanent collection is a diverse programme of temporary exhibitions, displaying a broad range of innovative fashion and textiles from designers and makers around the world.
Madeleine Vionnet was a French fashion designer. Vionnet trained in London before returning to France to establish her first fashion house in Paris in 1912. Although it was forced to close in 1914 at the outbreak of the First World War, it re-opened after the war and Vionnet became one of the leading designers in Paris between the Wars (1919-1939). Vionnet was forced to close her house in 1939 and retired in 1940.
Pierre Alexandre Claudius Balmain was a French fashion designer and founder of leading post-war fashion house Balmain. Known for sophistication and elegance, he described the art of dressmaking as "the architecture of movement."
A mantua is an article of women's clothing worn in the late 17th century and 18th century. Originally a loose gown, the later mantua was an overgown or robe typically worn over stays, stomacher and a co-ordinating petticoat.
John Bates is an English fashion designer who, working as Jean Varon, was part of the boutique scene that blossomed in London in the 1960s.
Fashion in the years following World War II is characterized by the resurgence of haute couture after the austerity of the war years. Square shoulders and short skirts were replaced by the soft femininity of Christian Dior's "New Look" silhouette, with its sweeping longer skirts, fitted waist, and rounded shoulders, which in turn gave way to an unfitted, structural look in the later 1950s.
Marion A Foale is an English artist and fashion designer. With Sally Tuffin, she formed one half of the design team behind the 1960s fashion label Foale and Tuffin.
Marit Allen was an English fashion journalist and costume designer who specialized in costumes for films. She designed the costumes for several successful Hollywood films, including Mrs. Doubtfire, The Witches, Eyes Wide Shut, Dirty Rotten Scoundrels, Brokeback Mountain and La Vie en Rose. Her career as a film costume designer lasted over 33 years.
Graziella Fontana is a Genoese Italian fashion designer who was active in the London Mod fashion scene in the 1960s and early 1970s. One of her designs, a hotpants suit in check Liberty cotton, was chosen as the Dress of the Year in 1971.
Kiki Byrne was a Norwegian-born, London-based fashion designer who is mainly remembered as Mary Quant's rival on the King's Road in the late 1950s and 1960s.
Sally Tuffin is an English fashion designer and ceramicist who, with Marion Foale, was half of Foale and Tuffin, the groundbreaking fashion label that was part of the "youthquake" movement in 1960s London.
James "Jimmy" Wedge is a British fashion designer, milliner, and fashion photographer.
Ganton Street is a street in central London that runs between Marshall Street and Kingly Street. It is crossed by Carnaby Street, and Newburgh Street joins it on its north side. The street is in a part-pedestrianised area dominated by independent clothing shops and restaurants, and on upper floors, offices, particularly media companies. Immediately to the east of Regent Street, Ganton Street is variously described as being in the West End, Soho, and "Carnaby" areas.
Lady Jane was the first women's fashion boutique on London's Carnaby Street. It was opened by Henry Moss and his partner Harry Fox in April 1966 and was seen as a counterpart to Warren Gold's Lord John chain.
Gerald McCann was a British fashion designer who was considered among the leading lights of the Swinging London fashion scene, alongside names such as Mary Quant, subsequently moving to the United States to continue his career with Larry Levine.
Maxfield Parrish was a British fashion brand founded by Nigel Preston in the early 1970s. With an international reputation – especially for its work in leathers – it was selected as part of the Dress of the Year in 1982.
Deborah Milner is a British fashion designer active since the 1990s. Since 2000, she has focused on ecologically aware design, founding Ecoture, her ecological couture line in 2005. In the early 2010s she was head of the Alexander McQueen couture studio.