The focale (plural focalia), also known as a sudarium ("sweat cloth"), [1] was a woolen or linen scarf worn by ancient Roman military personnel. It protected the neck from chafing by the armor and was used for warmth. [2] [3] [4] The focale is depicted widely in military scenes from Roman art, such as the relief sculpture on the Arch of Septimius Severus in the Roman Forum [5] and Trajan's Column. [6] It is shown loosely knotted in the front, but is sometimes visible with the ends tucked inside the cuirass. [1]
In Latin literature, focale is a general word for a scarf or wrapping for the throat. [7] A focale was one of the gifts that might be given for the December festival of Saturnalia, according to Martial. [8] In one of his satires, Horace lists focalia among the "badges of illness" (insignia morbi). [9] In describing the correct attire for public speaking, Quintilian advises against wearing a focale, unless required by poor health. [10]
Although a sudarium often is used as a handkerchief, it can be worn like the focale as a neckerchief. [11] When Suetonius describes the overly casual attire of Nero, the emperor is barefoot, unbelted, and dressed in evening wear (synthesis), with a sudarium around his neck. [12] The sudarium may be the precursor to the focale. [13] In late antiquity, orarium (Greek orarion ) might be synonymous with focale, as in the description of military attire in the Vision of Dorotheus , and in a papyrus (dated 350–450 AD) listing military clothes. [14] From the sudarium derives the name of the Near Eastern sudra, a similar piece of cloth with various functions over time. [15]
The focale is sometimes seen as one of the precursors of the necktie. [16] Cesare Vecellio (1530–1606) mentions the focale, calling it a cravata (cravat), as worn by Roman soldiers in his book on the history of fashion. [17] It has been compared to the amice (amictus) worn by Roman Catholic priests, which is depicted from the 6th century onward, as in the Ravenna mosaics. [18]
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