Gainerie is the art of making sheaths, cases, sheaths for swords, sabres, daggers, along with boxes, wallets, chests, desk mats, upholstery leathers, and other objects. [1]
The gainer dyes his leathers himself and sometimes applies gilding with a heated tool.
The artisan of gainerie was called the gainier, derived from the old French "Gaisnier," etymologically from the word "sheath," referring to the leather sword sheath. [2]
Historically, French gainerie was organised into a corporation during the reign of Louis IX and into a jurande body in 1323. [3]
In 1560, Francis II confirmed the privileges of the gainiers’ corporation and even extended them; these regulations remained in force until 1776. At that time, the corporation of coffer-makers and trunk-makers disappeared, merging with the gainiers' corporation. [4]
Around the 16th century, a strong rivalry arose between the bookbinders and the gainiers. Some gainiers acquired gilding tools, but since the bookbinders' corporation had a much greater prestige, it was the bookbinders who obtained the exclusive use of royal gilding tools, often encroaching on the gainiers' domain by taking advantage of royal privilege. [5]
Later, gainerie experienced considerable growth in France at the beginning of the 19th century, especially around 1830, due to the development of industries that required cases or containers. At that time, the French were renowned worldwide for the good taste of their productions.
Regarding leather upholstery and the sheathing of desk surfaces, this practice appeared under the Regency and gained momentum under the reign of Louis XV with the emergence of drop-front secretaries.
The types of leather used in gainerie were mainly morocco leather, shagreen, galuchat, as well as other leathers. The works were often adorned with simple or elaborate gilding applied with a heated tool.
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