Morocco leather

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Deluxe edition of Thomas Mann's novel Der Tod in Venedig in full Morocco binding, showing its typical vein 1912 DerTod in Venedig.jpg
Deluxe edition of Thomas Mann's novel Der Tod in Venedig in full Morocco binding, showing its typical vein
A red morocco binding with the Fugger arms (Bibliotheque-mediatheque de Nancy) Reliure en maroquin rouge ancien, aux armes des Fugger (Res. 10 261).jpg
A red morocco binding with the Fugger arms (Bibliothèque-médiathèque de Nancy)

Morocco leather (also known as Levant, the French Maroquin, Turkey, [1] or German Saffian from Safi, a Moroccan town famous for leather) is a vegetable-tanned leather known for its softness, pliability, and ability to take color. It has been widely used in the manufacture of gloves and the uppers of ladies' shoes and men's low cut shoes, but is commonly associated with wallets, linings for fine luggage, and bookbindings.

Contents

Despite its name, Morocco was typically not the original source of the leather. Some of the highest quality Morocco leather, usually goat skin, used in book binding was sourced from Northern Nigeria (particularly from the Hausa city-states of Kano, Katsina, and Zazzau) [2] and Anatolia (modern day Turkey). [3] [4] First known production of morocco leather is attributed to pre-11th century Moors, in which alum tanned morocco leather was stained pink. While it was not common in England and in more northern parts of Europe until the 17th century, it has been established that Morocco leather was used in Italy pre-1600, as goat leather was more common there. [3] Morocco leather is valued in Western countries for its use in luxury bookbindings because of its strength, suppleness, and because it enhanced any gilding.

The leather tends to be more famous than the breed of goat that originally produced it. The leather is sourced from the Sokoto Red breed, which is indigenous to Guinea and Sudan Savannah of Nigeria and Maradi Region in Republic of Niger. [5] [3]

The finest grades of Morocco leather are goatskin, but by the late 19th century other skins often were substituted in practice, particularly sheepskin and split calfskin. For example, French Morocco is a variety made of sheepskin. [6] The tanning process varied widely, but the traditional tanning material was sumac. The traditional tanning process was skilled and elaborate; according to the application, the preparation either would aim for a carefully smoothed finish, or would bring up the grain in various patterns such as straight-grained, pebble-grained, or in particular, in a bird's-eye pattern. Morocco leather is practically always dyed, traditionally most often red or black, but green, brown or other colors also were available, and in modern times there is no special constraint on color. [7] [8]

Miscellany

The song "(We're Off on the) Road to Morocco" sung by Bing Crosby and Bob Hope includes the line "like Webster's dictionary we're Morocco bound".

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Leather</span> Durable and flexible material created by tanning animal skins

Leather is a strong, flexible and durable material obtained from the tanning, or chemical treatment, of animal skins and hides to prevent decay. The most common leathers come from cattle, sheep, goats, equine animals, buffalo, pigs and hogs, and aquatic animals such as seals and alligators.

Tan or TAN may refer to:

A hide or skin is an animal skin treated for human use. The word "hide" is related to the German word Haut, which means skin. The industry defines hides as "skins" of large animals e.g. cow, buffalo; while skins refer to "skins" of smaller animals: goat, sheep, deer, pig, fish, alligator, snake, etc. Common commercial hides include leather from cattle and other livestock animals, buckskin, alligator skin and snake skin. All are used for shoes, clothes, leather bags, belts, or other fashion accessories. Leather is also used in cars, upholstery, interior decorating, horse tack and harnesses. Skins are sometimes still gathered from hunting and processed at a domestic or artisanal level but most leather making is now industrialized and large-scale. Various tannins are used for this purpose. Hides are also used as processed chews for dogs or other pets.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Shell cordovan</span> Equine leather

Shell cordovan,cordovan, or cordwain is a type of tanned fibrous connective tissue commonly used in high-end shoemaking. Cordovan is an equine material made from the fibrous flat connective tissue beneath the hide on the rump of the horse. The material derives its name from the city of Cordoba, Spain, where it was first produced by the Visigoths in the seventh century, and later also by the Moors. It is a difficult and expensive material to make, and in the late 19th and early 20th century was mostly used for razor strops to hone razors in barber shops. More recently it has been increasingly used for shoes, wallets, and watch straps due to its aesthetic qualities and exceptional durability. It is also used in archery to protect the fingers. It is smooth and durable, ideal for a finger tab. Shell cordovan has a unique non-creasing characteristic. Because it is made of connective tissue, it is smooth and lacks the pebbled effect of leather derived from animal skin.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Opanak</span> Traditional peasant shoes in southeastern Europe

Opanci are traditional peasant shoes worn in Southeastern Europe. The attributes of the opanci are a construction of leather, lack of laces, durable, and various endings on toes. In Serbia, the design of the horn-like ending on toes indicates the region of origin, though this specific design is not exclusive to Serbia. The opanci are also considered as the traditional peasant footwear for people in the Balkan region. In Bulgaria they are referred to as "tsarvuli".

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Chamois leather</span> Type of porous leather

Chamois leather is a type of porous leather, traditionally the skin of the chamois, a type of European mountain goat, but today made almost exclusively from the flesh split of a sheepskin.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Buckskin (leather)</span> Hide tanned using a Native American method

Buckskin is the soft, pliable, porous preserved hide of an animal – usually deer – tanned in the same way as deerskin clothing worn by Native Americans. Some leather sold as "buckskin" may now be sheepskin tanned with modern chromate tanning chemicals and dyed to resemble real buckskin.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Fur clothing</span> Clothing made of furry animal hides

Fur clothing is clothing made from the preserved skins of mammals. Fur is one of the oldest forms of clothing and is thought to have been widely used by people for at least 120,000 years. The term 'fur' is often used to refer to a specific item of clothing such as a coat, wrap, or shawl made from the fur of animals.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Goatskin (material)</span> Furreds skin of a goat

Goatskin refers to the skin of a goat, which by long term usage, is denoted by the term Morocco leather. Kidskin, used for gloves, shoes and other accessories, is traditionally goatskin, although other leathers such as sheep and kangaroo can be used to make kid.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Nubuck</span> Type of top-grain leather

Nubuck is top-grain leather that has been sanded or buffed on the grain side, or outside, to give a slight nap of short protein fibers, producing a velvet-like surface. It is resistant to wear, and may be white or coloured.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Turnshoe</span> Type of medieval leather shoe

A turnshoe is a type of leather shoe that was used during the Middle Ages. It was so named because it was put together inside out, and then was turned right-side-out once finished: this hides the main seam between the sole and vamp—prolonging the life of the shoe and inhibiting moisture leaking in through the seam.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Calfskin</span> Leather produced from the hide of a calf


Calfskin or calf leather is a leather or membrane produced from the hide of a calf, or juvenile domestic cattle. Calfskin is particularly valuable because of its softness and fine grain, as well as durability. It is commonly used for high-quality clothing, shoes, wallets, and similar products, as well as traditional leather bookbindings. In these contexts, just "calf" is commonly used. Fine calfskin is one of the skins used for vellum and parchment manuscripts.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Igualada Leather Museum</span>

The Igualada Leather Museum, located in Igualada, Catalonia, was created in 1954 and was the first leather museum in Spain, and the third one in Europe. The collections are displayed in two nearby buildings in Igualada: the "Cal Boyer" building, a former cotton textile factory from the late 19th century, and the "Cal Granotes" building, an 18th-century tannery.

Humanity has used animal hides since the Paleolithic, for clothing as well as mobile shelters such as tipis and wigwams, and household items. Since ancient times, hides have also been used as a writing medium, in the form of parchment.

Russia leather is a particular form of bark-tanned cow leather. It is distinguished from other types of leather by a processing step that takes place after tanning, where birch oil is worked into the rear face of the leather. This produces a leather that is hard-wearing, flexible and resistant to water. The oil impregnation also deters insect damage. This leather was a major export good from Russia in the 17th and 18th centuries because of its high quality, its usefulness for a range of purposes, and the difficulty of replicating its manufacture elsewhere. It was an important item of trade for the Muscovy Company. In German-speaking countries, this leather was also known by the name Juchten or Juften.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Kidskin</span> Soft, thin leather often used for gloves

Kidskin or kid leather is a type of soft, thin leather that is traditionally used for gloves. It is widely used for other fashion purposes such as footwear and clothing. Kidskin is traditionally made from goatskin – more specifically, the skin of young goats, although equivalent leathers such as lambskin and chickenskin give the same effect.

The conservation and restoration of leather objects is the process of determining the causes of deterioration, followed by deciding the best course of action for preserving the leather objects for the future.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Santiniketan Leather Goods</span> Leather products from a region of India

Santiniketan Leather Goods are leather products made in Santiniketan and surrounding villages near Kolkata, West Bengal, India. The material used is vegetable tanned leather with art work done by touch dyeing. Its artistic leather bags are popular in foreign markets and are exported to many countries including Japan and the U.S. They are generally made of E. I. Leather from sheepskin and goatskin.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Crocodile skin</span> Skin of a live crocodile or a leather made from dead crocodile hide

Crocodile skin either refers to the skin of a live crocodile or a leather made from dead crocodile hide. It has multiple applications across the fashion industry such as use for bags, shoes, and upholstery after being farmed and treated in specialist farms and tanneries.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Markoob</span> Sudanese shoes

Markoob or markoub is a type of footwear designed for Sudanese men crafted from animal skins. Alongside the white turban, jalabiya, waistcoat, top, and trousers, the Markoob forms part of the Sudanese national attire. In the past, there existed a female counterpart although it has now become a rarity. It has a historical evolution starting with the "Claudo" shoe, followed by "Abu Adina," leading to the enduring traditional Sudanese shoe.

References

  1. Spawn, William (1983). The Evolution of American Bookbinding Styles in the Eighteenth Century. Pennsylvania: Bryn Mawr College Library. p. 32.
  2. Sani, Abubakar Babajo (2009). "Raw Material Production for Export in Northern Nigeria: The Experience of the People in the Livestock and Allied Industries Under British Rule C. 1900-1960". African Economic History. 37: 103–127. ISSN   0145-2258.
  3. 1 2 3 Habibu, Buhari; Kawu, Mohammed; Makun, Hussaina; Aluwong, Tagang; Yaqub, Lukman; Dzenda, Tavershima; Buhari, Hajarah (2017-03-31). "Influences of breed, sex and age on seasonal changes in haematological variables of tropical goat kids". Archives Animal Breeding. 60 (1): 33–42. doi: 10.5194/aab-60-33-2017 . ISSN   2363-9822.
  4. Cambridge University Press
  5. "The Red Maradi Goat (Capra hircus)".
  6. Ure, Andrew. A Dictionary of Arts, Manufactures, and Mines. 1853. Little, Brown.
  7. Davis, Charles T. The Manufacture of Leather. 1885. Henry Carey Baird.
  8. Watt, Alexander. Leather Manufacture. 1906. van Nostrand.

Further reading