This article needs additional citations for verification .(March 2016) |
A Kani shawl is a type of Kashmir shawl originating from the Kanihama area of the Kashmir valley. [1] It is one of the oldest handicraft of Kashmir. This craft has been a part of the valley since the time of Mughals. The shawls are woven from pashmina yarn. [2] The government of Jammu and Kashmir has granted a geographical indication to the Kani shawl, making it illegal to sell shawls made outside of the Kanihama area as Kani shawls. [1]
Kani weaving is believed to be an art indigenous to Kanihama and traced back to 3000 BC. [3] This exquisite shawl was once coveted by Mughal Kings, Sikh Maharajas and British Aristocrats. The Ain-i-Akbari records that Emperor Akbar was an avid collector of Kani shawls.
While the name 'Kani' comes from the area where this particular artisans come from, Kanihama, the word 'Kani' - in Kashmiri - also means a small wooden oblong spool.
Kani Shawls are made from pashmina on a handloom. Instead of a shuttle used in regular pashmina shawls, Kani Shawls use needles made from cane [4] or wood. [5] The kanis, or small wooden sticks, are used to create the intricate designs of the shawl. Each kani represents one knot in the weave, and the weaver must follow a graph paper design closely to ensure that the design is accurately replicated. [6]
Only trained craftsmen are knowledgeable enough to weave Kani Shawls properly. The techniques and knowledge have been transferred from forefathers to next generations. It is estimated that of the 10,000-odd kani weavers, only 2,000 are left today. [7] An artisan skilled in carpet weaving can easily make a Kani shawl because both crafts involve using color coding, known as "Talim," to guide the weaving process. While there are some differences in techniques and tools, the fundamental principle of following the color-coded Talim remains the same. However, Kani shawl making is a specialized art form with unique intricacies and challenges, and skilled artisans in this craft produce the most exquisite and authentic Kani shawls, preserving its traditional heritage. [8]
Janpath, is one of the main roads in New Delhi. It starts out as Radial Road 1 in Connaught Place, adjacent to Palika Bazaar, and runs north–south perpendicular to Kartavya Path. Originally called Queen's Way, it was an important part of Lutyens' design of the administrative New Delhi, upon the inauguration of new capital of India in 1931. Janpath Market is one of the most famous markets for tourists in New Delhi. The market essentially is a long line of boutique stores selling products which are hard to find in the malls and multi-chain stores of the city. The long line of boutiques is for budget travellers and shoppers, buyers of handicrafts and garments, curio and numerous Indian-style fast-food places. It was created during the Construction of New Delhi.
Himroo is a fabric made of silk and cotton, which is grown locally in Aurangabad. Himroo was brought to Aurangabad in the reign of Mohammad Tughlaq, when he had shifted his capital from Delhi to Daulatabad, Aurangabad. The word himroo originated from Persian word Hum-ruh which means 'similar'. Himroo is a replication of Kinkhwab, which was woven with pure golden and silver threads in former times, and was meant for the royal families.
Pashmina refers to, depending on the source, the cashmere wool of the Changthangi cashmere goat, fine Kashmiri cashmere wool, or any cashmere wool.
A shawl is a simple item of clothing, loosely worn over the shoulders, upper body and arms, and sometimes also over the head. It is usually a rectangular piece of cloth, but can also be square or triangular in shape. Other shapes include oblong shawls. It is associated with the inhabitants of the northern Indian subcontinent—particularly Kashmir and Punjab—and Central Asia, but can be found in many other parts of the world.
Shahtoosh, also known as Shatoush, is a wool obtained from the fur of the chiru. Also, shawls made from the wool of the chiru are called shahtoosh. Shahtoosh is the finest animal wool, followed by vicuña wool.
Jamawar, or gown piece, is a special type of shawl made in Kashmir. "Jama" means robe and "war/var" is yard. The best quality of Jamawar is built with Pashmina. The brocaded parts are woven in similar threads of silk or polyester. Most of the designs seen today are floral, with the kairy as the predominant motif. Historically handmade items, some shawls took a couple of decades to complete; consequently, original Jamawar shawls are highly valued. Modern, machine-made Jamawar prints, produced in cities such as Kashmir and other parts of Himachal Pradesh cost less to buy but handmade Jamawar are very expensive.
Silk In India, about 97% of the raw mulberry silk is produced in the Indian states of Karnataka, Andhra Pradesh, Tamil Nadu and West Bengal. Mysore and North Bangalore, the upcoming site of a US$20 million "Silk City", contribute to a majority of silk production. Another emerging silk producer is Tamil Nadu in the place in where mulberry cultivation is concentrated in Salem, Erode and Dharmapuri districts. Hyderabad, Andhra Pradesh and Gobichettipalayam, Tamil Nadu were the first locations to have automated silk reeling units.
Tota Rani
Termeh is a type of valuable and traditional fabric, often made from Silk, cashmere, or Wool, and featuring intricate traditional patterns. This fabric is produced in Iran and Kashmir and is highly popular due to its delicate and complex designs.
The Kashmir shawl, the predecessor of the contemporary cashmere shawl, is a type of shawl identified by its distinctive Kashmiri weave and for being made of fine shahtoosh or pashmina wool. Contemporary variants include the pashmina and shahtoosh shawls. In the late 20th century, they evolved to middle-class popularity through generic cashmere products, and raffal, shawls woven in the Kashmiri style, but using thicker Merino wool. Originally designed as a covering for men in India, it has evolved in the popular cultures of India, Europe, and the United States as indicators of nobility and rank, heirlooms giving on a girl's coming-of-age and marriage, and subsequently, as artistic elements in interior design.
Hashmat Ullah Khan, also spelled Hashmatullah Khan, is a Kashmiri Kani shawl promoter and entrepreneur. In 2009, he was conferred the Padma Shri, India's fourth highest civilian honour, for reviving the weaving of Kani shawls.
The National Handicrafts and Handlooms Museum (NHHM) commonly known as National Crafts Museum in New Delhi is one of the largest crafts museums in India. It is run by the Ministry of Textiles, Government of India. The museum is situated on the corner of the Pragati Maidan, facing the Purana Quila complex. In 2015, the Government of India announced that a Hastkala (handicrafts) Academy would be established in the museum premises, converting some galleries into classrooms. Initial renovations destroyed one of the museum's most well-known artifacts, a room of murals painted by Madhubani artist Ganga Devi, leading to widespread criticism. As of 2019, renovations are still ongoing.
Kanihama, formerly known as Gund Kawarhama, is a village situated on the Srinagar-Gulmarg road in the Budgam district of Jammu and Kashmir in India. The Kani Shawls produced in the area were given a geographical indication status by the government of Jammu and Kashmir, making it illegal to sell shawls made outside of the Kanihama area as Kani shawls.
A Kullu shawl is a type of shawl made in Kullu, India, featuring various geometrical patterns and bright colors. Originally, indigenous Kulivi people would weave plain shawls, but following the arrival of craftspeople from Bushahr in the early 1940s, the trend of more patterned shawls came to rise.
Kashmiri papier-mâché is a handicraft of Kashmir that was brought by Muslim saint Mir Sayyid Ali Hamadani from Persia in the 14th century to medieval India. It is based primarily on paper pulp, and is a richly decorated, colourful artifact; generally in the form of vases, bowls, or cups, boxes, trays, bases of lamps, and many other small objects. These are made in homes, and workshops, in Srinagar, and other parts of the Kashmir Valley, and are marketed primarily within India, although there is a significant international market. The product is protected under the Geographic Indication Act 1999 of the Government of India, and was registered by the Controller General of Patents Designs and Trademarks during the period from April 2011 to March 2012 under the title "Kashmir Paper Machie".
Kashmiri handicrafts is a traditional art of Kashmiri people and artisans who make, craft, and decorate objects by hand. Ganderbal, and Budgam are the main districts in central Kashmir which have been making handicrafts products since ages. The rest of its districts, including Srinagar, Ganderbal, and Budgam are best known for their cultural heritage which includes the handicraft industry in Jammu and Kashmir, India. Embroidery is an integral part of many Kashmiri handicrafts, shawls, carpets and Kashmiri ladies pheran are adorned with intricate embroideries or flower styles made of thin metal threads and this kind of embroidery is known as 'Tille' in Kashmiri language. Embroidery work is done by both men in women in the region conventionally.
Qaleen is a type of hand knotted piled carpet. The term is used throughout Turkey, Iran and Central Asia, and making qaleens is currently practised as a handicraft in Turkey and Iran. Artisans may need at least two months to make one qaleen. The craft was learned from Persians by the artisans of Kashmir on the Indian subcontinent. These knotted pile carpets so were a blend of Persian and Indian craftsmanship. Qaleens or Ghalichas were made in the Kashmir region of India and Pakistan.
Rafoogar is an artisan similar to an embroiderer, but the Rafoogar has the skill to repair the damaged or torn clothes. Rafoogar makes the holes, cuts, and manufacturing damages almost invisible. In Kashmir, the term is more associated with shawl making where the weavers were called Sada-baf and the workman for repairing work called Rafoogar.
Talim in textiles is a symbolic code and system of notation that facilitates the creation of intricate patterns in fabrics, such as shawls and carpets, and the written coded plans that include colour schemes and weaving instructions. The term is used in traditional hand-weaving in the Indian subcontinent. Talim was initially used to create certain types of patterns in Kashmiri shawls, and later came to be applied in the
The crafts of Sindh and its craftsmen are held in high esteem and their works are notable not only in Sindh but also in many other places.