Mark Powell (clothing designer)

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Mark Powell (born November 13, 1960) is an independent British fashion designer known for his detailed biro drawings.

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Powell, who operates from a retail base in Newburgh Street in central London’s Soho, has been described as a contributor to the "great British bespoke". [1] Powell's clothes have been associated with “gangster chic” and the slimmer silhouettes of the 1960s Mod movement.

Early life

Powell was born in London and was raised in London's East End and Romford, Essex. His father worked in textiles, while his mother worked for the central London theatrical costumier Charles Fox. In his teens, Powell showed an interest in 1940s and 1950s style by having clothing made for himself by local tailors. [2] In the late 1970s, he worked for Mayfair men's outfitter Washington Tremlett, where he learned about clothing's measure and cut. [3]

Design career

Powell later worked at retro menswear retailer Robot, managing the company’s outlet in Covent Garden’s Floral Street and introducing a bespoke service. [4] In 1985, Powell opened his first shop in Soho's Archer Street with partner Nick Tentis. [5] Powell & Co initially sold unworn suits from the 1940s, 1950s and 1960s and then incorporated a tailoring business. Early customers included David Bowie and the incarcerated Krays. [3] [6]

Following the closure of Powell & Co, Powell operated from an atelier in Soho’s D'Arblay Street. [7] At this time, he worked with Isabella Blow, who introduced Powell to Bryan Ferry. In 1995, Ferry wore one of Powell's designs on the sleeve of his compilation More Than This. [8] Powell's suits were also worn for public events by British comedian Vic Reeves and George Michael. [9]

Powell's suits were also worn by Mel B, for the group's meeting with Prince Charles in 1997, [10] Bianca Jagger, [11] Naomi Campbell, [12] and Keira Knightley. Powell also dressed and styled George Clooney and Harrison Ford when they appeared respectively as Thomas Jefferson and Abraham Lincoln on the covers of issues of John F. Kennedy’s George magazine. [13] [14]

In 2000, Powell took over a studio in Brewer Street where clients included DJ/producer Goldie, the Earl Of Stockton Daniel MacMillan and singer-songwriter Kevin Rowland, who commissioned Powell outfits for the reunion of his group Dexys Midnight Runners.[ citation needed ]

Cited in one case for his "attention to detail," [15] Powell produced a series of collections for Marks & Spencer’s Autograph range, [16] and collaborated with fashion brands Mulberry and Michiko Koshino. [17] During this time, Daniel Radcliffe wore Mark Powell suits for three of the London premieres of the Harry Potter movies [18] and British folk singer Billy Bragg wore a suit from Powell on his 2007 UK tour. [19]

In June 2010, Powell opened the outlet Mark Powell Bespoke in Soho’s Marshall Street. [20] Customers included Bradley Wiggins, who mentioned that he conversed with Paul Weller while they were both fitted for suits in the shop. [21]

Powell relocated his business to the Carnaby area of Soho in spring 2020 and began using social media, as reported by Joshua Bluteau. [22] In 2022, Powell produced a footwear range with the British brand Tricker's.

Film and television

Powell’s clothing appeared in Julien Temple’s 1986 film Absolute Beginners, 1994’s Shopping, and 2000’s Gangster No. 1.

Powell was the subject of the BBC2 documentary series Soho Stories, directed by Chris Terrill in 1996. [23] In 2012 he appeared as a judge and mentor in the BBC3 series Young Tailor of the Year. [24]

Books and exhibitions

Powell has participated in several Department of Trade & Industry-organised international fashion shows, and staged four of his own. Two of these fashion shows took place during London Fashion Week at Savile Row restaurant Sartoria in 2001 [25] and 2002. [26]

A three-piece Powell suit is in the Victoria & Albert Museum's permanent collection and appeared in the museum's 1997 exhibition The Cutting Edge: Post War Fashion. [27]

Powell also contributed garments to the British Fashion Council's 21st Century Dandy exhibition of 2003 and appeared in the accompanying book. [28] Other books featuring Powell’s tailoring include Paul Gorman’s The Look [29] and Sharp Suits by Eric Musgrave. [30]

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References

  1. ↑ How Savile Row remains at the cutting edge", Daily Telegraph, September 24, 2010
  2. ↑ "Devine Encounters: Mark Powell - Tailor to the Stars" – via www.youtube.com.
  3. 1 2 The mod squad...Meet the tailor to Bradley Wiggins, Paul Weller and Martin Freeman, Evening Standard, 10 January, 2013.
  4. ↑ "a day in the life of Mark Powell". Hedonist Magazine London.
  5. ↑ "Nick Tentis Luxury Menswear, Bespoke Tailoring, London". Nick Tentis.
  6. ↑ The Look: Adventures In Rock & Pop Fashion by Paul Gorman. Publisher: London, Adelita Ltd, 2006 ISBN   978-0-9552017-0-7
  7. ↑ Back Street chic for the Soho smart set, The Independent, August 7, 1993
  8. ↑ "Bryan Ferry + Roxy Music - More Than This (The Best Of Bryan Ferry + Roxy Music)" – via www.discogs.com.
  9. ↑ "Mark Powell". www.thisissoho.co.uk. 2020-03-23. Retrieved 2023-07-17.
  10. ↑ "Princes Trust Royal Gala - Prince of Wales & Spice Girls - 1997. Press Association Images, 50 Years of British Pop, Britain in Pictures. Press Association Images". Archived from the original on 2011-08-25. Retrieved 2011-05-27.
  11. ↑ Bainca Jagger: The World’s Most Glamorous Eco-warrior, ES, June 29, 2001
  12. ↑ Naomi Campbell in the High Court, The Independent, February 12, 2002
  13. ↑ George Clooney’s Declaration of Independence, George, June 1997
  14. ↑ The Secret Passions of Harrison Ford, George, August 1997
  15. ↑ Design Management Case Studies, David Hands, Jack Ingram & Robert Jerrard, Routledge, 2002
  16. ↑ "Welcome to the M&S; library". Archived from the original on 2012-03-24. Retrieved 2011-05-27.
  17. ↑ "Mark Powell Interview (Pt 1) - Britain's Best Bespoke Tailor" – via www.youtube.com.
  18. ↑ Suits You Celeb, The Knowledge, The Times February 4, 2006
  19. ↑ Uncut, March, 2008
  20. ↑ "Mark Powell". www.carnaby.co.uk.
  21. ↑ "BBC Radio 4 - Desert Island Discs, Sir Bradley Wiggins". BBC.
  22. ↑ Dressing Up: Menswear in the age of Social Media, Joshua M. Bluteau, Berghahn Books, 2021
  23. ↑ On Location: Soho Stories, Broadcast, September 13, 1996
  24. ↑ "BBC Three - Young Talent of the Year, 2011, Young Tailor of the Year". BBC.
  25. ↑ "Mark Powell - Fashion Show - Sartoria, London 2001" – via www.youtube.com.
  26. ↑ "Mark Powell - Fashion Show - Sartoria, London 2002" – via www.youtube.com.
  27. ↑ Museum, Victoria and Albert. "Man's Suit | Powell, Mark | V&A Explore The Collections". Victoria and Albert Museum: Explore the Collections.
  28. ↑ 21st Century Dandy by Christopher Breward. Publisher: The British Council. ISBN   978-0-86355-511-4
  29. ↑ The Look: Adventures in Rock & Pop Fashion, Paul Gorman, Adelita, 2006
  30. ↑ Sharp Suits, Eric Musgrave, Pavilion, 2009
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