Orris oil (orris butter or Beurre d'Iris) is an essential oil derived from irises, particularly Iris germanica . [1] It is sometimes used as a flavoring agent and as an ingredient in perfume production. It can also have uses in body lotions.
Orris oil (orris butter or Beurre d'Iris) is an essential oil derived from irises, particularly Iris germanica . [1] It is sometimes used as a flavoring agent and as an ingredient in perfume production. It can also have uses in body lotions.
The rhizomes (roots) must be stored in a cool, dry location for three years to develop the scent. [1] The fresh rhizomes are almost odorless.
The distilled oil solidifies in the receiver as a wax-like and cream-colored mass known as orris concrete. It is solid because of the high content of myristic acid (85%), a white stearin-like substance. [1]
Orris concrete melts when it reaches around body temperature. It has a woody, fatty-oily, yet distinctly violet-like odor: sweet floral, warm & tenacious with a fruity undertone. Orris concrete is used in perfumery when the presence of myristic acid is not prohibitive, e.g.: in soap perfumes where the weak acid only acts as a fixative. The methyl and ethyl esters of myristic acid are often used for blending in violet type perfume bases. The high costs of orris oil production limit its application.
Iris is a flowering plant genus of 310 accepted species with showy flowers. As well as being the scientific name, iris is also widely used as a common name for all Iris species, as well as some belonging to other closely related genera. A common name for some species is 'flags', while the plants of the subgenus Scorpiris are widely known as 'junos', particularly in horticulture. It is a popular garden flower.
Perfume is a mixture of fragrant essential oils or aroma compounds (fragrances), fixatives and solvents, usually in liquid form, used to give the human body, animals, food, objects, and living-spaces an agreeable scent. The 1939 Nobel Laureate for Chemistry, Leopold Ružička stated in 1945 that "right from the earliest days of scientific chemistry up to the present time, perfumes have substantially contributed to the development of organic chemistry as regards methods, systematic classification, and theory."
In botany and dendrology, a rhizome is a modified subterranean plant stem that sends out roots and shoots from its nodes. Rhizomes are also called creeping rootstalks or just rootstalks. Rhizomes develop from axillary buds and grow horizontally. The rhizome also retains the ability to allow new shoots to grow upwards.
Orris root is the root of Iris germanica and Iris pallida. It had the common name of Queen Elizabeth Root.
Myristic acid (IUPAC name: tetradecanoic acid) is a common saturated fatty acid with the molecular formula CH3(CH2)12COOH. Its salts and esters are commonly referred to as myristates or tetradecanoates. It is named after the binomial name for nutmeg (Myristica fragrans), from which it was first isolated in 1841 by Lyon Playfair.
Iris chrysographes, the black iris, is a plant species that belongs to the genus Iris. It is native to Southern China and Myanmar (Burma), growing in meadows, streamsides, hillsides and forest margins.
Hedychium spicatum is a plant species native to China, the Himalayas, Myanmar, Thailand and Ethiopia.
Irones are a group of methylionone odorants used in perfumery, derived from iris oil, e.g. orris root. The most commercially important of these are:
L'Artisan Parfumeur is a French niche perfume house owned by Puig company from Spain, which also owns British perfume house Penhaligon's.
Iris variegata, commonly known as the Hungarian iris, is a plant species in the genus Iris, also in the subgenus Iris. It is a rhizomatous perennial from eastern Europe. It has dark green, ribbed leaves. The branched flowering stems can be as tall as the leaves, they can hold 2–3 flowers in summer. They are yellowish-white, with brown-purple veins on the drooping falls. It is very hardy and it is commonly cultivated as an ornamental plant in temperate regions. There are several cultivars.
Iris setosa, the bristle-pointed iris, is a species of flowering plant in the genus Iris of the family Iridaceae, it belongs the subgenus Limniris and the series Tripetalae. It is a rhizomatous perennial from a wide range across the Arctic sea, including Alaska, Maine, Canada, Russia, northeastern Asia, China, Korea and southwards to Japan. The plant has tall branching stems, mid green leaves and violet, purple-blue, violet-blue, blue, to lavender flowers. There are also plants with pink and white flowers.
Iris bulleyana is a species in the genus Iris, also the subgenus Limniris and in the series Sibiricae. It is a rhizomatous herbaceous perennial, from South west China, including Myanmar and Tibet. It has long thin green leaves,
Iris cuniculiformis is a plant species in the genus Iris, it is also in the subgenus Iris and in the section Pseudoregelia. It is a rhizomatous perennial, from China, it has long and thin green leaves, and 1 lilac large flowers, that have yellow or grey beards. It is cultivated as an ornamental plant in temperate regions.
Iris leptophylla is a plant species in the genus Iris, it is also in the subgenus Iris and in the section Pseudoregelia. It is a rhizomatous perennial, from China. It has thin, long grey-green leaves, long slender stem and 2 fragrant purple, blue-purple, violet or lavender pink flowers. It is cultivated as an ornamental plant in temperate regions.
The identity of the plant first described by Carl Linnaeus as Iris florentina remains unclear, as of December 2021. In horticulture, it has been treated as a white-flowered variant of Iris × germanica, under names such as Iris germanica nothovar. florentina, Iris × germanica var. florentina and Iris × germanica 'Florentina'. Iris florentina has also been treated as the correct name for the true species also known as Iris albicansLange.
Iris barnumiae is a species in the genus Iris; it is also in the subgenus Iris and in the section Oncocyclus. It is a rhizomatous perennial, from Armenia, Azerbaijan, Iran, Iraq, and Turkey. It has pale glaucous green and narrow leaves, that are slightly sickle-shaped and fade soon after blooming. It has, in mid- to late spring, fragrant flowers in shades of purple, from red-purple, mulberry to purplish-violet, with a yellow tipped with purple beard. It was renamed as I. barnumiae in after a plant naming conference in 2011, but is still sometimes named as I. barnumae in some sources. It has one accepted subspecies Iris barnumiae subsp. demawendica and two forms; Iris barnumiae f. protonyma (Stapf) B.Mathew & Wendelbo and Iris barnumiae f. urmiensis (Hoog) B.Mathew & Wendelbo, which has yellow flowers. Sometimes I. barnumiae f. barnumiae is used to describe the basic form. It is rarely cultivated as an ornamental plant in temperate regions, due to its needing very dry and warm summer conditions.
Iris auranitica is a species in the genus Iris, it is also in the subgenus Iris and in the section Oncocyclus. It is a rhizomatous perennial in the Jabal al-Druze region in Syria, where it grows at about 1600 m. It has thin and long, greyish-green, semi-evergreen leaves. In May, it has fragranced flowers, with a dark signal patch and yellow beard with purple tips. It is rarely cultivated as an ornamental plant in temperate regions, as it needs very dry conditions during the summer.
Iris bostrensis is a species in the genus Iris, it is also in the subgenus Iris and in the section Oncocyclus. It is a rhizomatous perennial, from the border between Syria and Jordan. It has greenish-grey leaves, 1–2 flowers in Spring,, which have a yellowish, greenish or pale brown ground, which is then covered in many brown-black, brown-purple, or brown, spots, streaks or veining. It has a bright yellow beard, slightly tipped in purple. It is rarely cultivated as an ornamental plant in temperate regions, due to its environmental conditions of its natural habitat.
Alpha-isomethyl ionone is a synthetically made and naturally occurring organic compound found in Brewer's yeasts or the species known as Saccharomyces cerevisiae. The compound is an isomer of methyl ionone. Alpha-isomethyl ionone can be colorless or pale-straw coloured liquid. Its primary scent is flowery and secondary scent is violet. It may also have a woody or orris-like scent. and is often used in flavouring and cosmetic industries for example, aftershave lotions, bath products, hair care products, moisturizers, perfumes, shampoos and skin care products. It is also an ingredient used in Chanel No. 5, and other branded products such as Fidji by Guy Laroche. Perfume fragrances that alpha-isomethyl ionone is used in are for example, amber, chypre, violet, mimosa, reseda, iris, orris, cyclamen, chypre, berries, woody notes, ylang-ylang, leather, orange, nut, pistachio, muscatel, and tobacco.
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