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Nationality | American | ||||||||||||||
Born | New Jersey | August 28, 1987||||||||||||||
Occupation | Rock Climber | ||||||||||||||
Climbing career | |||||||||||||||
Type of climber | Bouldering, Competition climbing | ||||||||||||||
Highest grade |
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Medal record
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Paul David Robinson (born August 28, 1987) is an American professional rock climber who specializes in bouldering. He has established and repeated several bouldering problems at the V15 difficulty rating, in such areas as Hueco Tanks, the Buttermilks, and Magic Wood. In 2007, Robinson became the second climber in history to successfully climb a V13 boulder problem in one attempt.
In 2007, Paul Robinson took second place at the 8th Annual American Bouldering Series (ABS) National Championships. [1] The following year, Robinson took first place at the competition, beating Chris Sharma and Sean McColl. [2] Later that year, he took third place at the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) Bouldering World Cup in Vail, Colorado. [3] In 2009, Robinson competed once again in the ABS National Championships, this time taking second place behind Daniel Woods. [4] At the IFSC Bouldering World Cup in Vail, he completed three of the four finals problems, placing him in fourth behind Kilian Fischhuber. [5] In January 2013, Robinson took third place in the finals of the Dark Horse Series IV bouldering competition. [6] The following June, Robinson reached the finals of the IFSC Bouldering World Cup in Vail, but was unable to finish any of the final boulders and took sixth place. [7]
In August 2007, Robinson made the third ascent of Jade, a V14 bouldering problem in Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado. Later that year, he climbed the V13 Nagual boulder in one attempt, an accomplishment known as a "flash". This made Robinson the second person to have flashed a V13, after James Pearson. [8] The following January, Robinson claimed the second ascent of Terremer, a V15 boulder in Hueco Tanks, Texas. The problem was established by Swiss climber Fred Nicole two years earlier. At the time, it was regarded as the most challenging problem at Hueco Tanks, and Robinson described it as "the hardest boulder I have ever done so far." [9]
On 30 March 2010, Robinson claimed the first ascent of Lucid Dreaming, a highball bouldering problem in the Buttermilks near Bishop, California. [10] He originally proposed a grade of V16, the highest bouldering grade that had yet been assigned to a problem, but he later suggested Lucid Dreaming might be a V15. The boulder is 55 feet (17 m) from ground to top, beginning with a steep overhang and ending with a slab traversal. Much of the difficulty of the climb comes from two consecutive V12 moves near the beginning, both featuring small, technical holds. [11] The problem was not repeated until January 2014. [12]
During the summer of 2010, Robinson spent two months climbing in Rocklands, South Africa. His main project was the second ascent of Monkey Wedding, a V15 boulder problem first established in 2002 by Fred Nicole. Other achievements included a flash of The Amphitheater (V12), and two V14 first ascents: The Big Short and Black Eagle. [13] Later that year, Robinson visited Magic Wood in Switzerland, where he established Il Trill, a boulder problem rated 8c on the Fontainebleau scale. [14]
In February 2011, Robinson took the third ascent of Trip Hop, a V15 problem established by Sébastien Frigault in 2003. [15] The following month, he claimed two V15 second ascents in Europe: The Story of Two Worlds , established in 2005 by Dave Graham, [16] and Angama, established in 2006 by Dai Koyamada. [17] In January 2012, Robinson established Meadowlark Lemon, a V14 [18] sit-start variation of the V13 Meadowlark problem in Red Rock Canyon, Nevada. [19] Later that year, he claimed the second ascent of Paint it Black, a V15 problem established in Rocky Mountain National Park by Daniel Woods. [20]
David Ethan Graham is an American professional rock climber. Professing to enjoy bouldering the most, he is one of the elite sport climbers and boulderers of his generation. Graham repeats classic routes or boulder problems as well as performing cutting-edge first ascents. He is known for climbing in 2005 an 8C (V15) graded boulder problem called The Story of Two Worlds, in Cresciano, Switzerland). He is also known for his stance against grade inflation and for his strong anti-chipping ethic. He writes an ongoing blog for the website of Climbing Magazine.
Fred Nicole is a Swiss rock climber known for his first ascents of extreme sport climbing routes, and also for pioneering the development of standards and techniques in modern bouldering in the 1990s and early 2000s; he is considered an important climber in the history of the sport.
The Fly is a short 25-foot (7.6 m) schist sport climbing or highball bouldering route in the Rumney Rocks climbing area, New Hampshire, USA, at the Waimea Cliff. The Fly was bolted by Mark Sprague in 1995 as an open project but did not see a first free ascent until David Graham, an 18-year-old American climber from Maine, climbed it in April 2000, who graded it 5.14d (9a) or V14 (8B+). It was quickly repeated by his climbing partner, Luke Parady. At the time, these ascents were milestones for climbing in North America.
Lisa Rands is an American rock climber. She is known for her bouldering for which in 2002, she became the first American female to win IFSC World Cup bouldering competitions, and topped the IFSC world boulder rankings in 2002. Rands was the first American female to climb boulders of grade V11 (8A), and V12 (8A+), and was the second-ever female in history to climb a 7C+/8A boulder. As well as making first female ascents (FFAs) of boulders such as The Mandala V12 (8A+), Rands was the first female in history to do an E8-graded traditional climbing route, The End of the Affair.
The Mandala is a 6-metre (20 ft) high granite bouldering route in the Buttermilks, a popular bouldering area near Bishop, California. Considered a "next generation" problem in the 1970s, the route was first solved by American climber Chris Sharma in February 2000. It is one of the most widely known boulder problems in the world and is graded at V12 (8A+), and the sit start variation is graded at V14 (8B+).
Andrew Earl, or Andy Earl, is a professional climber and coach from the north-east of England. He performs in both traditional climbing and bouldering, having ascended both E9 and 8B+ (V14) graded problems in Europe. He was British bouldering champion from 2003 to 2006. In 2004, he won the silver medal in bouldering at the European Championships in Birmingham. In 2007, he won the fourth stage of the Bouldering World Cup in Réunion.
Sean McColl is a professional rock climber from North Vancouver, Canada. In competition climbing, he competes in the competition lead climbing, competition speed climbing, and competition bouldering disciplines, and has won major competitions in all three. He is also notable for his outdoor sport climbing and bouldering ascents.
Alex Puccio is an American professional climber specializing in bouldering. She competes in climbing competitions and split her time between climbing outdoor and indoor. She finished third overall in the 2011 and 2013 World Cup bouldering competition, second overall in the 2014 Climbing World Championship bouldering competition, and has won the American Bouldering Series eleven times.
Shauna Coxsey is an English professional rock climber. She is the most successful competition climber in the UK, having won the IFSC Bouldering World Cup Season in both 2016 and 2017. She retired from competition climbing after competing in the 2020 Olympics.
Anna Stöhr is a professional climber. She is a champion in bouldering climbing competitions. She won four Bouldering World Cups, in 2008, 2011, 2012 and 2013 and two World Championships, in 2007 and 2011. Notably, she dominated the 2013 Bouldering World Cup series, by winning seven events out of eight, losing one just by one attempt to Juliane Wurm.
Ashima Shiraishi is an American rock climber. Shiraishi started climbing at the age of six at Rat Rock in Central Park, joining her father. Only a few years later, she quickly established herself as one of the top boulderers and sport climbers in the world. Her numerous accolades include first-place finishes in international competitions, and multiple first female and youngest ascents. Shiraishi is featured in several short documentary-style films, and is the subject of the documentary short "Return to the Red" (2012).
Daniel Woods is an American professional rock climber who specializes in bouldering, and who is considered one of the most important climbers in the history of bouldering. Woods has climbed over thirty boulder problems graded at or above 8C (V15). He has also won several competition bouldering events, such as the U.S. National Bouldering Championship and some international events. In March 2021, Woods achieved the first ascent of a low start to Sleepwalker V16 (8C+) which he named Return of the Sleepwalker and proposed the grade 9A (V17), only the second-ever route in history at that grade.
Angela Payne is an American rock climber specializing in bouldering, who won a clean sweep of the 2003-2004 US American Bouldering Series, and who in 2010, became the first-ever female in history to climb an 8B (V13) boulder.
Jimmy Webb is an American professional rock climber specializing in bouldering. He is one of a handful of climbers who have climbed the boulder grade V16 (8C+).
Alexander Megos is a German rock climber specializing in sport climbing, bouldering and competition climbing. In 2013, he became the first-ever climber to onsight a 9a (5.14d) graded route. He has made the first free ascent (FFA) of some of the hardest sport climbing routes in the world, including two 9b+ (5.15c) routes, three 9b (5.15b) routes, and several boulders with a boulder 8C (V15) rating.
Janja Garnbret is a Slovenian professional rock climber who specializes in sport climbing and competition climbing, and who has won multiple competition lead climbing and competition bouldering events. In 2021, she became the first-ever female Olympic gold medalist in climbing and is widely regarded as the greatest competition climber of all time. She is also the world's first-ever female climber to onsight an 8c (5.14b) graded sport climbing route.
Jakob Schubert is an Austrian professional rock climber, specializing in competition climbing, sport climbing, and bouldering. He was four times World Champion and three times World Cup winner in lead climbing. In August 2021, he won bronze at the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo. As of the end of 2022, Schubert had won the most men's IFSC gold medals of any male competition climber in history. In addition to competition climbing, Schubert is the only climber in the world to have redpointed a 9c (5.15d) graded sport climbing route and climbed a 9A (V17) graded bouldering problem.
Christian Core is an Italian professional rock climber who specialises in bouldering and competition bouldering. He is known for being the first-ever person in the world to climb an 8C+ (V16) boulder, Gioia, in 2008. As a competition climber, Core won the Bouldering World Cup twice in 1999 and 2002, and also won the Bouldering World Championship in 2003.
Oriane Bertone is a French rock climber, who specializes in competition climbing, but is also noted for her sport climbing and her bouldering.
Dreamtime is a 10-metre (33-foot) long gneiss bouldering route in a forest in Cresciano, Switzerland. When first solved in October 2000 by Swiss bouldering pioneer Fred Nicole, it was graded at 8C (V15), making it the world's first-ever boulder route at that grade. With subsequent repeat ascents, it was regraded to 8B+ (V14), but after the breaking of a key hold in 2009, its grade is now considered closer to 8C (V15). Dreamtime is the most notable bouldering route in climbing history, along with Midnight Lightning, and is renowned for both its beauty and its challenge.