Dave Graham (climber)

Last updated
Dave Graham
Dave Graham bouldering in Fontainebleau - 2008 (cropped).jpg
Personal information
Born (1981-11-10) November 10, 1981 (age 42)
Maine, U.S.
OccupationRock climber
Height5 ft 10 in (179 cm)
Weight139 lb (63 kg)
Climbing career
Type of climber Bouldering, Sport climbing
Highest grade
Known forClimbing many difficult boulder problems
Updated on November 24, 2022

David Ethan Graham (born November 10, 1981) is an American professional rock climber. Professing to enjoy bouldering the most, he is one of the elite sport climbers and boulderers of his generation. Graham repeats classic routes or boulder problems as well as performing cutting-edge first ascents. He is known for climbing in 2005 an 8C  (V15) graded boulder problem called The Story of Two Worlds , in Cresciano, Switzerland). He is also known for his stance against grade inflation and for his strong anti-chipping ethic. He writes an ongoing blog for the website of Climbing Magazine.

Contents

Biography

Born in Maine, Graham was introduced to climbing in 1997 by one of his skiing teammates. Within a year, he climbed an 8b+  (5.14a) route, The Present. Quickly, he became one of the strongest climbers in the United States, before moving to Europe in 2005.

In 2005, he climbed an 8C  (V15) boulder problem (The Story Of Two Worlds, Cresciano, Switzerland), and his first 9a+  (5.15a) route (Coup de Grace, Val Bavona, Switzerland).

Rock climbing

As of November 2017, Graham climbed 455 routes between 8a  (5.13b) and 9a+\b  , of which 143 were onsighted: [1]

Redpointed routes

9a+  (5.15a):

  • Ali Hulk Sit Start Extension TotalRodellar (SPA) – September 2020 – Fifth ascent. [2] Originally considered 9b, but downgraded to 9a/9a+. [3]
  • La Rambla Siurana (SPA) – March 2019
  • Thor's HammerFlatanger (NOR) – October 5, 2015 – Sixth ascent [4]
  • Realization Céüse (FRA) – July 30, 2007 – Fourth ascent [5]
  • Coup de Grace – Val Bavona (SUI) – November 8, 2005 – First ascent [6]

9a  (5.14d):

  • ChocholocoCarros (FRA)- October 14, 2009 [7]
  • Abyss – Gorges du Loup (FRA) – October 3, 2009 [8]
  • Kryptonite – Rifle (Colorado, USA) – September 14, 2008
  • Bunda De Fora – Acephale (Canada) – September 6, 2007
  • Ali-Hulk (de pie) – Rodellar (ESP) – June 27, 2007
  • Esclatamasters – Perles (ESP) – March 8, 2007 – Second ascent. First ascent by Ramón Julián Puigblanqué [9]
  • A MuerteSiurana (ESP) – December 7, 2006 – Third ascent [10]
  • Bain de Sang – Saint-Loup (SUI) – April 13, 2005
  • Psychedelic – Gorilla Cliffs (USA) – November 18, 2001 – First ascent
  • Action directe Frankenjura (GER) – May 21, 2001 – fourth ascent [11]

Boulder problems

As of June 2022, Graham had climbed about 700 boulder problems between 8A  (V11) and 8C+  (V16), of which 4 were onsighted and 29 flashed: [12]

8C+ (V16)

  • Hypnotised Minds - Rocky Mountain National Park – October, 2019 – Third ascent. First ascent by Daniel Woods, 2010
  • Euclase - Valle Bovona, Switzerland – April, 2022 – First Ascent. Awaiting grade confirmation.
  • F*ck the System - Fionnay, Switzerland – June, 2022 – First ascent by Shawn Raboutou, 2021 [13]
  • Celestite - Valle Bovona, Switzerland – June, 2023 - First Ascent. Awaiting grade confirmation. [14] [15]

8C  (V15):

  • La Rustica – Valle Bovona, Switzerland – April, 2022 – First Ascent Jimmy Webb 2019
  • 4-low – Valle Bovona, Switzerland – February, 2022 – First Ascent Daniel Woods
  • Primitivo – Valle Bovona, Switzerland – February, 2022 – 3rd ascent, First Ascent Jimmy Webb 2019
  • Roadkill – Valle Bovona, Switzerland – December, 2021 – First Ascent Shawn Raboutou
  • Trieste Assis – Red Rock, USA – April 2020
  • Squoze – Red Rock, USA – December 2019 – First Ascent Jimmy Webb
  • Meadowlark Lemon – Gateway Canyon (USA) – January 8, 2013 – Second ascent. First ascent by Paul Robinson in 2012 [16]
  • The Wheel of Life – Hollow Mountain Cave (AUS) – June 8, 2012 – Sixth ascent. First ascent by Dai Koyamada in 2004. Composed of 65 moves, it links four different boulder problems. Although it is climbed without rope, it is considered to be almost a climbing route. It is commonly graded 8C as a boulder problem, and 9a as a route. Graham stated that it was "not possible to compare it to other boulder problems, due to its length", and that it was in a league above 9a routes he had climbed, possibly even a 9a+. [17] [18]
  • Paint it BlackRocky Mountain National Park (USA) – April 18, 2012 – Third ascent. First ascent by Daniel Woods in 2012 [19]
  • The Ice Knife – Guanella Pass (USA) – October 18, 2011 – First ascent [20]
  • Warrior Up – Mt Evans / Wolverine Land (USA) – September 4, 2010 – Second ascent. First ascent by Daniel Woods [21]
  • Big PawChironico (SUI) – November 27, 2008 – First ascent
  • The IslandFontainebleau (FRA)- April 7, 2008 – First ascent [22]
  • From Dirt Grows The FlowersChironico (SUI) – March 7, 2005 – First ascent [23]
  • The Story of Two Worlds Cresciano (SUI) – January 9, 2005 – First ascent [24]
  • Foundation's Edge - Fionnay (SUI) – October 15, 2013 – First Ascent [25]

See also

Related Research Articles

Fred Rouhling is a French rock climber and boulderer, noted for creating and repeating some of the earliest grade 9a (5.14d) sport climbing routes in the world, including Hugh in 1993, the first-ever French 9a (5.14d) sport route. Rouhling is also known for the controversy from his proposed grading of 9b (5.15b) for his 1995 route Akira, which would have made it the world's first-ever 9b-graded sport route; 25 years later, it was graded at 9a (5.14d).

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Fred Nicole</span> Swiss rock climber

Fred Nicole is a Swiss rock climber known for his first ascents of extreme sport climbing routes, and also for pioneering the development of standards and techniques in modern bouldering in the 1990s and early 2000s; he is considered an important climber in the history of the sport.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Josune Bereziartu</span> Spanish rock climber

Josune Bereziartu, also known as Josune Bereciartu Urruzola, is a Basque rock climber. For a decade starting in the late 1990s, she was considered the strongest female sport climber in the world and is regarded as one of the most important female rock climbers in history.

The Fly is a short 25-foot (7.6 m) schist sport climbing or highball bouldering route in the Rumney Rocks climbing area, New Hampshire, USA, at the Waimea Cliff. The Fly was bolted by Mark Sprague in 1995 as an open project but did not see a first free ascent until David Graham, an 18-year-old American climber from Maine, climbed it in April 2000, who graded it 5.14d (9a) or V14 (8B+). It was quickly repeated by his climbing partner, Luke Parady. At the time, these ascents were milestones for climbing in North America.

Dai Koyamada is a Japanese rock climber and known as one of the leading boulderers of his generation who established some of the first-ever boulder problems at 8C (V15). He has also established and repeated, some of the hardest sport climbs in the world.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">The Mandala</span> Bouldering route in California

The Mandala is a 6-metre (20 ft) high granite bouldering route in the Buttermilks, a popular bouldering area near Bishop, California. Considered a "next generation" problem in the 1970s, the route was first solved by American climber Chris Sharma in February 2000. It is one of the most widely known boulder problems in the world and is graded at V12 (8A+), and the sit start variation is graded at V14 (8B+).

<span class="mw-page-title-main">The Wheel of Life</span> Bouldering route in Australia

The Wheel of Life is a 21-metre (69 ft) long sandstone bouldering route on the roof of the Hollow Mountain Cave in the Grampians of Australia. When first solved, it was graded at 8C+ (V16), one of the world's first-ever boulder routes at that grade. With repeats, it was graded at 8C (V15), and some consider it to really be a sport climbing traverse route, at the sport grade of 9a (5.14d).

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Ashima Shiraishi</span> American rock climber (born 2001)

Ashima Shiraishi is an American rock climber. Shiraishi started climbing at the age of six at Rat Rock in Central Park, joining her father. Only a few years later, she quickly established herself as one of the top boulderers and sport climbers in the world. Her numerous accolades include first-place finishes in international competitions, and multiple first female and youngest ascents. Shiraishi is featured in several short documentary-style films, and is the subject of the documentary short "Return to the Red" (2012).

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Daniel Woods</span> American rock climber

Daniel Woods is an American professional rock climber who specializes in bouldering, and who is considered one of the most important climbers in the history of bouldering. Woods has climbed over thirty boulder problems graded at or above 8C (V15). He has also won several competition bouldering events, such as the U.S. National Bouldering Championship and some international events. In March 2021, Woods achieved the first ascent of a low start to Sleepwalker V16 (8C+) which he named Return of the Sleepwalker and proposed the grade 9A (V17), only the second-ever route in history at that grade.

Jimmy Webb is an American professional rock climber specializing in bouldering. He is one of a handful of climbers who have climbed the boulder grade V16 (8C+).

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Ethan Pringle</span> American rock climber (born 1986)

Ethan Pringle is an American rock climber with notable ascents in sport climbing, in traditional climbing, and in bouldering. He has also been active in competition climbing, winning the American national competition lead climbing championships in both youth and adult formats, and silver at the World Youth Championships.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Alexander Megos</span> German rock climber

Alexander Megos is a German rock climber specializing in sport climbing, bouldering and competition climbing. In 2013, he became the first-ever climber to onsight a 9a (5.14d) graded route. He has made the first free ascent (FFA) of some of the hardest sport climbing routes in the world, including two 9b+ (5.15c) routes, three 9b (5.15b) routes, and several boulders with a boulder 8C (V15) rating.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Patxi Usobiaga</span> Spanish rock climber (born 1980)

Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza, best known as Patxi Usobiaga, is a Spanish professional rock climber, sports climber and boulderer. He is known for winning two Lead Climbing World Cups in a row, and for being the first-ever climber in history to onsight an 8c+ (5.14c) route.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Christian Core</span> Italian rock climber

Christian Core is an Italian professional rock climber who specialises in bouldering and competition bouldering. He is known for being the first-ever person in the world to climb an 8C+ (V16) boulder, Gioia, in 2008. As a competition climber, Core won the Bouldering World Cup twice in 1999 and 2002, and also won the Bouldering World Championship in 2003.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Jan Hojer</span> German rock climber (born 1992)

Jan Hojer is a German professional rock climber specializing in sport climbing, bouldering, and competition climbing. He is known for winning one World Cup and two European Championships in competition bouldering. In May 2010, he climbed Action Directe, one of the most difficult sport climbing routes in the world. From 2013 to 2015, he sent several 8C (V15) boulder problems.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">William Bosi</span> Scottish rock climber (born 1998)

William (Will) Bosi is a Scottish professional rock climber specializing in sport climbing, bouldering and competition climbing. Bosi is only the second British sport climber in history to redpoint a 9b (5.15b) graded sport climbing route, and by 2023, was one of only a small group of climbers in the world to have completed a V17 (9A) boulder.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Dreamtime (climb)</span> Bouldering route in Switzerland

Dreamtime is a 10-metre (33 ft) long gneiss bouldering route in a forest in Cresciano, Switzerland. When first solved in October 2000 by Swiss bouldering pioneer Fred Nicole, it was graded at 8C (V15), making it the world's first-ever boulder route at that grade. With subsequent repeat ascents, it was regraded to 8B+ (V14), but after the breaking of a key hold in 2009, its grade is now considered closer to 8C (V15). Dreamtime is the most notable bouldering route in climbing history along with Midnight Lightning, and is renowned for both its beauty and its challenge.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Simon Lorenzi</span> Belgian rock climber (born 1997)

Simon Lorenzi is a Belgian professional rock climber specializing in sport climbing, bouldering and competition climbing. Lorenzi is one of the very few climbers to have repeated a V17 (9A) bouldering route, and the third climber to solve Burden of Dreams, the first-ever V17 (9A) graded boulder route. Lorenzi also made the first ascent of Soudain Seul, a V16/V17 boulder.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Barbara Zangerl</span> Austrian rock climber

Barbara "Babsi" Zangerl is an Austrian rock climber who is widely considered as one of the best all-round female climbers in the world. At various stages in her career, she has climbed at, or just below, the highest climbing grades achieved by a female in every major rock climbing discipline, including bouldering, traditional climbing, sport climbing, multi-pitch climbing and big wall climbing.

References

  1. Graham, Dave. "List of climbed routes". 8a.nu. Retrieved November 27, 2017.
  2. ""Ali Hulk Sit Start Extension Total" (9b) by Dave Graham". October 8, 2020. Retrieved October 11, 2020.
  3. Fernandez, Isaac (15 May 2023). "Dani Moreno chains 'Ali Hulk extension total sit start' and leaves it in 9a" [es]. Desnivel (in Spanish). Retrieved 16 August 2023.
  4. "Dave Graham and Ethan Pringle climb Thor's Hammer at Flatanger". October 6, 2015. Retrieved October 6, 2015.
  5. "Dave Graham ripete Realization a Ceuse". July 31, 2007. Retrieved January 7, 2012.
  6. Mick Ryan. "David Graham climbs Coup de Grace 9a/9a+" . Retrieved January 7, 2012.
  7. "Dave Graham 9a a Nizza". October 17, 2009. Archived from the original on September 19, 2012. Retrieved January 7, 2012.
  8. Björn Pohl. "Abyss by Dave G" . Retrieved January 7, 2012.
  9. Dougald MacDonald. "Two 5.14c Routes in a Day". Archived from the original on September 6, 2008. Retrieved January 7, 2012.
  10. Dan Dewell. "Graham A Muerte". Archived from the original on January 11, 2007. Retrieved August 27, 2012.
  11. "Dave Graham: Action Direct". May 29, 2001. Retrieved January 7, 2012.
  12. Graham, Dave. "List of climbed boulder problems". 8a.nu. Retrieved November 27, 2017.
  13. "F*ck the System 8C+ by Dave Graham". June 10, 2012. Retrieved May 16, 2022.
  14. "Celestite [8C+] FA". June 6, 2023. Retrieved April 27, 2024.
  15. "Dave Graham - Celestite 8C+ - First Ascent". Oct 30, 2023. Retrieved April 27, 2024.
  16. (in Spanish) "Jon Cardwell repite 'The game' 8C y Dave Graham 'Meadowlark lemon' 8C". January 9, 2013. Retrieved January 23, 2013.
  17. Graham, Dave. "Graham comments on The Wheel of Life". 8a.nu. Retrieved 19 June 2012.
  18. Björn Pohl (June 10, 2012). "Graham repeats The wheel of life" . Retrieved June 15, 2012.
  19. "Paint it Black 8C terza salita". April 29, 2012. Archived from the original on May 10, 2012. Retrieved April 29, 2012.
  20. Björn Pohl. "Ice knife 8C, by Graham" . Retrieved April 2, 2012.
  21. "Daniel Woods Fa's New V15 & Graham Quickly Grabs the Second". August 9, 2010. Archived from the original on December 3, 2010. Retrieved January 7, 2012.
  22. Dougald MacDonald. "Graham Puts Up V15 in Cradle of Bouldering". Archived from the original on January 8, 2010. Retrieved January 7, 2012.
  23. Dougald MacDonald. "New V15 for Dave Graham". Archived from the original on April 25, 2009. Retrieved January 7, 2012.
  24. Dougald MacDonald. "Graham's Hardest Yet". Archived from the original on June 15, 2012. Retrieved January 7, 2012.
  25. "Graham Makes FA of Foundation's Edge (V15) in Switzerland". Rock and Ice. 21 October 2013. Retrieved 2019-01-06.