Dave Graham (climber)

Last updated
Dave Graham
Dave Graham bouldering in Fontainebleau - 2008 (cropped).jpg
Graham bouldering in Fontainebleau
Personal information
Born (1981-11-10) November 10, 1981 (age 43)
Maine, U.S.
OccupationRock climber
Height5 ft 10 in (179 cm)
Weight139 lb (63 kg)
Climbing career
Type of climber Bouldering, Sport climbing
Highest grade
Known forClimbing many difficult boulder problems
Updated on November 24, 2022

David Ethan Graham (born November 10, 1981) is an American professional rock climber. Professing to enjoy bouldering the most, he is one of the elite sport climbers and boulderers of his generation. Graham repeats classic routes or boulder problems as well as performing cutting-edge first ascents. He is known for climbing in 2005 an 8C  (V15) graded boulder problem called The Story of Two Worlds , in Cresciano, Switzerland). He is also known for his stance against grade inflation and for his strong anti-chipping ethic. He writes an ongoing blog for the website of Climbing Magazine.

Contents

Biography

Born in Maine, Graham was introduced to climbing in 1997 by one of his skiing teammates. Within a year, he climbed an 8b+  (5.14a) route, The Present. Quickly, he became one of the strongest climbers in the United States, before moving to Europe in 2005.

In 2005, he climbed an 8C  (V15) boulder problem (The Story Of Two Worlds, Cresciano, Switzerland), and his first 9a+  (5.15a) route (Coup de Grace, Val Bavona, Switzerland).

Rock climbing

As of November 2017, Graham climbed 455 routes between 8a  (5.13b) and 9a+\b  , of which 143 were onsighted: [1]

Redpointed routes

9a+  (5.15a):

  • Ali Hulk Sit Start Extension Total – Rodellar (SPA) – September 2020 – Fifth ascent. [2] Originally considered 9b, but downgraded to 9a/9a+. [3]
  • La Rambla – Siurana (SPA) – March 2019
  • Thor's Hammer – Flatanger (NOR) – October 5, 2015 – Sixth ascent [4]
  • Realization – Céüse (FRA) – July 30, 2007 – Fourth ascent [5]
  • Coup de Grace – Val Bavona (SUI) – November 8, 2005 – First ascent [6]

9a  (5.14d):

  • Chocholoco – Carros (FRA)- October 14, 2009 [7]
  • Abyss – Gorges du Loup (FRA) – October 3, 2009 [8]
  • Kryptonite – Rifle (Colorado, USA) – September 14, 2008
  • Bunda De Fora – Acephale (Canada) – September 6, 2007
  • Ali-Hulk (de pie) – Rodellar (ESP) – June 27, 2007
  • Esclatamasters – Perles (ESP) – March 8, 2007 – Second ascent. First ascent by Ramón Julián Puigblanqué [9]
  • A Muerte – Siurana (ESP) – December 7, 2006 – Third ascent [10]
  • Bain de Sang – Saint-Loup (SUI) – April 13, 2005
  • Psychedelic – Gorilla Cliffs (USA) – November 18, 2001 – First ascent
  • Action directe – Frankenjura (GER) – May 21, 2001 – fourth ascent [11]

Boulder problems

As of June 2022, Graham had climbed about 700 boulder problems between 8A  (V11) and 8C+  (V16), of which 4 were onsighted and 29 flashed: [12]

8C+ (V16)

  • Hypnotised Minds - Rocky Mountain National Park – October, 2019 – Third ascent. First ascent by Daniel Woods, 2010
  • Euclase - Valle Bovona, Switzerland – April, 2022 – First Ascent. Awaiting grade confirmation.
  • F*ck the System - Fionnay, Switzerland – June, 2022 – First ascent by Shawn Raboutou, 2021 [13]
  • Celestite - Valle Bovona, Switzerland – June, 2023 - First Ascent. Awaiting grade confirmation. [14] [15]

8C  (V15):

  • La Rustica – Valle Bovona, Switzerland – April, 2022 – First Ascent Jimmy Webb 2019
  • 4-low – Valle Bovona, Switzerland – February, 2022 – First Ascent Daniel Woods
  • Primitivo – Valle Bovona, Switzerland – February, 2022 – 3rd ascent, First Ascent Jimmy Webb 2019
  • Roadkill – Valle Bovona, Switzerland – December, 2021 – First Ascent Shawn Raboutou
  • Trieste Assis – Red Rock, USA – April 2020
  • Squoze – Red Rock, USA – December 2019 – First Ascent Jimmy Webb
  • Meadowlark Lemon – Gateway Canyon (USA) – January 8, 2013 – Second ascent. First ascent by Paul Robinson in 2012 [16]
  • The Wheel of Life – Hollow Mountain Cave (AUS) – June 8, 2012 – Sixth ascent. First ascent by Dai Koyamada in 2004. Composed of 65 moves, it links four different boulder problems. Although it is climbed without rope, it is considered to be almost a climbing route. It is commonly graded 8C as a boulder problem, and 9a as a route. Graham stated that it was "not possible to compare it to other boulder problems, due to its length", and that it was in a league above 9a routes he had climbed, possibly even a 9a+. [17] [18]
  • Paint it Black – Rocky Mountain National Park (USA) – April 18, 2012 – Third ascent. First ascent by Daniel Woods in 2012 [19]
  • The Ice Knife – Guanella Pass (USA) – October 18, 2011 – First ascent [20]
  • Warrior Up – Mt Evans / Wolverine Land (USA) – September 4, 2010 – Second ascent. First ascent by Daniel Woods [21]
  • Big Paw – Chironico (SUI) – November 27, 2008 – First ascent
  • The Island – Fontainebleau (FRA)- April 7, 2008 – First ascent [22]
  • From Dirt Grows The Flowers – Chironico (SUI) – March 7, 2005 – First ascent [23]
  • The Story of Two Worlds – Cresciano (SUI) – January 9, 2005 – First ascent [24]
  • Foundation's Edge - Fionnay (SUI) – October 15, 2013 – First Ascent [25]

See also

References

  1. ↑ Graham, Dave. "List of climbed routes". 8a.nu. Retrieved November 27, 2017.
  2. ↑ ""Ali Hulk Sit Start Extension Total" (9b) by Dave Graham". October 8, 2020. Retrieved October 11, 2020.
  3. ↑ Fernandez, Isaac (15 May 2023). "Dani Moreno chains 'Ali Hulk extension total sit start' and leaves it in 9a" [es]. Desnivel (in Spanish). Retrieved 16 August 2023.
  4. ↑ "Dave Graham and Ethan Pringle climb Thor's Hammer at Flatanger". October 6, 2015. Retrieved October 6, 2015.
  5. ↑ "Dave Graham ripete Realization a Ceuse". July 31, 2007. Retrieved January 7, 2012.
  6. ↑ Mick Ryan (27 December 2005). "David Graham climbs Coup de Grace 9a/9a+" . Retrieved January 7, 2012.
  7. ↑ "Dave Graham 9a a Nizza". October 17, 2009. Archived from the original on September 19, 2012. Retrieved January 7, 2012.
  8. ↑ Björn Pohl (3 October 2009). "Abyss by Dave G" . Retrieved January 7, 2012.
  9. ↑ Dougald MacDonald. "Two 5.14c Routes in a Day". Archived from the original on September 6, 2008. Retrieved January 7, 2012.
  10. ↑ Dan Dewell. "Graham A Muerte". Archived from the original on January 11, 2007. Retrieved August 27, 2012.
  11. ↑ "Dave Graham: Action Direct". May 29, 2001. Retrieved January 7, 2012.
  12. ↑ Graham, Dave. "List of climbed boulder problems". 8a.nu. Retrieved November 27, 2017.
  13. ↑ "F*ck the System 8C+ by Dave Graham". June 10, 2012. Retrieved May 16, 2022.
  14. ↑ "Celestite [8C+] FA". June 6, 2023. Retrieved April 27, 2024.
  15. ↑ "Dave Graham - Celestite 8C+ - First Ascent". YouTube . Oct 30, 2023. Retrieved April 27, 2024.
  16. ↑ (in Spanish) "Jon Cardwell repite 'The game' 8C y Dave Graham 'Meadowlark lemon' 8C". January 9, 2013. Retrieved January 23, 2013.
  17. ↑ Graham, Dave. "Graham comments on The Wheel of Life". 8a.nu. Retrieved 19 June 2012.
  18. ↑ Björn Pohl (June 10, 2012). "Graham repeats The wheel of life" . Retrieved June 15, 2012.
  19. ↑ "Paint it Black 8C terza salita". April 29, 2012. Archived from the original on May 10, 2012. Retrieved April 29, 2012.
  20. ↑ Björn Pohl (26 October 2011). "Ice knife 8C, by Graham" . Retrieved April 2, 2012.
  21. ↑ "Daniel Woods Fa's New V15 & Graham Quickly Grabs the Second". August 9, 2010. Archived from the original on December 3, 2010. Retrieved January 7, 2012.
  22. ↑ Dougald MacDonald. "Graham Puts Up V15 in Cradle of Bouldering". Archived from the original on January 8, 2010. Retrieved January 7, 2012.
  23. ↑ Dougald MacDonald. "New V15 for Dave Graham". Archived from the original on April 25, 2009. Retrieved January 7, 2012.
  24. ↑ Dougald MacDonald. "Graham's Hardest Yet". Archived from the original on June 15, 2012. Retrieved January 7, 2012.
  25. ↑ "Graham Makes FA of Foundation's Edge (V15) in Switzerland". Rock and Ice. 21 October 2013. Retrieved 2019-01-06.
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