IFSC Climbing World Cup | |
---|---|
Seasons | |
Disciplines | |
Most gold medals | |
Janja Garnbret (46) | |
Most titles | |
Sandrine Levet (10) Janja Garnbret (10) |
The IFSC Climbing World Cup is a series of competition climbing events held during the year at various locations around the world, organized by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC). At each event, the athletes compete in three disciplines: lead, bouldering, and speed. The number of events varies from year to year, and the winners for each discipline are decided by the points accumulated in the year.
The first World Cup was held in 1989 and included only lead competition climbing events. Speed climbing was introduced in 1998, and bouldering in 1999. For 18 seasons, from 1989 to 2006, World Cups were held under the auspices of the International Council for Competition Climbing which was part of the UIAA; they were called UIAA Climbing World Cups. Since 2007, they have been held under the auspices of the IFSC. [1]
This section needs to be updated.(June 2022) |
At the end of each World Cup competition, a trophy is awarded to the winner, the top three athletes are awarded gold, bronze, and silver medals, and the top six athletes are awarded prize money. As of 2022, [2] the top 80 competitors of individual World Cup competitions are eligible to accrue points. Tied competitors are awarded the average of the points allocated for the tied rank positions, rounded down to two decimal places.
Ranking | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 13 | 14 | 15 |
Points | 1000 | 805 | 690 | 610 | 545 | 495 | 455 | 415 | 380 | 350 | 325 | 300 | 280 | 260 | 240 |
Ranking | 16 | 17 | 18 | 19 | 20 | 21 | 22 | 23 | 24 | 25 | 26 | 27 | 28 | 29 | 30 |
Points | 220 | 205 | 185 | 170 | 155 | 145 | 130 | 120 | 105 | 95 | 84 | 73 | 63 | 56 | 48 |
Ranking | 31 | 32 | 33 | 34 | 35 | 36 | 37 | 38 | 39 | 40 | 41 | 42 | 43 | 44-45 | 46 |
Points | 42 | 37 | 33 | 30 | 27 | 24 | 21 | 19 | 17 | 15 | 14 | 13 | 12 | 11 | 10 |
Ranking | 47-48 | 49-50 | 51-53 | 54-56 | 57-59 | 60-63 | 64-68 | 69-74 | 75-80 |
Points | 9 | 8 | 7 | 6 | 5 | 4 | 3 | 2 | 1 |
For each discipline (lead, bouldering and speed), the points awarded to each athlete are added together throughout the World Cup series in order to determine an overall World Cup ranking. If an athlete participates in all competitions in a discipline, their worst result is discarded (provided that IFSC organizes at least 6 competitions for that season). At the end of the season, the athlete with highest ranking in each discipline will be considered to be the overall winner of the World Cup series, and will be awarded a trophy. The athletes ranking second and third will be awarded a plate. [3]
At the end of each competition, a national team ranking is determined, for each discipline, by adding the ranking points of the three highest ranked individual team members. For each discipline (lead, bouldering and speed), the points awarded to each team are added together throughout the World Cup series in order to determine the overall team ranking. If a team participates in all competitions in a discipline, its worst result is discarded (provided that IFSC organizes at least 6 competitions for that season). At the end of the season, the team with highest overall ranking is awarded a trophy.
Discipline | Overall score | Overall ranking |
---|---|---|
Lead | 665 | 1 |
Bouldering | 470 | 2 |
Speed | 0 | — |
Combined | 1135 | 1 |
For each season, results obtained by each athlete across events and across disciplines (Lead, Bouldering and Speed) are considered to determine a combined ranking. At the end of the season, prizes are awarded to the top three athletes. The combined title was first introduced in 1998, together with the first speed event. [4] Bouldering was introduced in the following year.
From 1998 to 2017, the combined score for each athlete was obtained by adding together the overall World Cup scores obtained by that athlete in at least two different disciplines. For instance, in 2017 Janja Garnbret won the combined title with a combined score of 1135 points, which was the sum of the overall scores she obtained in Lead and Bouldering. Since she competed in no Speed event, her score in that discipline was zero.
Discipline | Selected event | Rankings | |
---|---|---|---|
General | Relative | ||
Lead | Villars | 1 | 1 |
Arco | 1 | 1 | |
Bouldering | Meringen | 4 | 3 |
Munich | 3 | 2 | |
Speed | Wujiang | 27 | 2 |
Xiamen | 26 | 4 | |
Product of relative rankings | 48 |
Since 2018, more complex rules were applied to determine the combined score. [5] Only athletes participating in at least two competitions in each discipline (i.e. 2 in Bouldering, 2 in Lead, and 2 in Speed) were eligible for the combined title. For each World Cup event, rankings were adjusted by discarding non-eligible athletes. Since they were relative to a selected subset of athletes (the eligible ones), these adjusted rankings were called relative rankings, as opposed to the general rankings applied to the whole set of participants. If an eligible athlete participated in more than two competitions in a discipline, only the best two results in that discipline were considered. For each eligible athlete, the relative rankings obtained in the selected six events were multiplied together to determine a combined score. Athletes were ranked according to their combined score in ascending order. Namely, the athlete with the lowest score was awarded the combined title. For instance, in 2018 Jakob Schubert won the Combined World Cup with a score of 48 points, determined as shown in the table.
In 2019, individual combined events were introduced in the World Cup series, where participants are required to compete in all disciplines (Bouldering, Lead and Speed) and medals are awarded based on their combined results. [6] Nevertheless, at the end of the season, combined World Cup rankings will be determined as well, with the same method applied in 2018, based on results across disciplines obtained by each athlete in six selected events.
Complete rankings starting from the 1991 season are available on the IFSC web site. [7]
Complete rankings starting from the 1991 season are available on the IFSC web site. [7]
Updated after season 2023 (Men's Category)
Rank | Nation | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | France (FRA) | 23 | 14 | 18 | 55 |
2 | Austria (AUT) | 14 | 14 | 8 | 36 |
3 | Russia (RUS) | 13 | 22 | 15 | 50 |
4 | Japan (JPN) | 12 | 8 | 18 | 38 |
5 | Czech Republic (CZE) | 9 | 9 | 9 | 27 |
6 | Ukraine (UKR) | 6 | 6 | 7 | 19 |
7 | Poland (POL) | 6 | 1 | 4 | 11 |
8 | Spain (ESP) | 4 | 7 | 3 | 14 |
9 | Italy (ITA) | 4 | 6 | 6 | 16 |
10 | Indonesia (INA) | 3 | 2 | 1 | 6 |
11 | Slovenia (SLO) | 3 | 0 | 5 | 8 |
12 | Canada (CAN) | 2 | 5 | 2 | 9 |
13 | Netherlands (NED) | 2 | 2 | 0 | 4 |
South Korea (KOR) | 2 | 2 | 0 | 4 | |
15 | Great Britain (GBR) | 2 | 0 | 1 | 3 |
16 | Germany (GER) | 1 | 2 | 1 | 4 |
17 | China (CHN) | 1 | 1 | 3 | 5 |
18 | Iran (IRN) | 0 | 2 | 0 | 2 |
19 | United States (USA) | 0 | 1 | 3 | 4 |
20 | Switzerland (SUI) | 0 | 0 | 2 | 2 |
Totals (20 entries) | 107 | 104 | 106 | 317 |
Updated after season 2023 (Women's Category)
Rank | Nation | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | France (FRA) | 22 | 16 | 19 | 57 |
2 | Slovenia (SLO) | 18 | 13 | 12 | 43 |
3 | Russia (RUS) | 13 | 19 | 19 | 51 |
4 | Austria (AUT) | 11 | 6 | 11 | 28 |
5 | United States (USA) | 10 | 2 | 9 | 21 |
6 | Japan (JPN) | 8 | 15 | 10 | 33 |
7 | Ukraine (UKR) | 7 | 7 | 6 | 20 |
8 | South Korea (KOR) | 6 | 10 | 2 | 18 |
9 | Belgium (BEL) | 5 | 4 | 3 | 12 |
10 | Poland (POL) | 5 | 3 | 5 | 13 |
11 | Great Britain (GBR) | 2 | 2 | 2 | 6 |
12 | China (CHN) | 1 | 0 | 1 | 2 |
13 | Italy (ITA) | 0 | 2 | 3 | 5 |
Switzerland (SUI) | 0 | 2 | 3 | 5 | |
15 | Indonesia (INA) | 0 | 2 | 2 | 4 |
Totals (15 entries) | 108 | 103 | 107 | 318 |
Updated after Seoul 2024
Rank | Nation | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | France (FRA) | 178 | 168 | 183 | 529 |
2 | Russia (RUS) | 158 | 173 | 163 | 494 |
3 | Austria (AUT) | 115 | 85 | 78 | 278 |
4 | Slovenia (SLO) | 96 | 75 | 58 | 229 |
5 | Japan (JPN) | 80 | 111 | 104 | 295 |
6 | United States (USA) | 53 | 55 | 48 | 156 |
7 | Czech Republic (CZE) | 39 | 38 | 28 | 105 |
8 | Spain (ESP) | 36 | 37 | 23 | 96 |
9 | Poland (POL) | 36 | 32 | 29 | 97 |
10 | Ukraine (UKR) | 35 | 32 | 47 | 114 |
11 | South Korea (KOR) | 34 | 27 | 33 | 94 |
12 | China (CHN) | 33 | 24 | 30 | 87 |
13 | Italy (ITA) | 27 | 42 | 35 | 104 |
14 | Belgium (BEL) | 25 | 29 | 18 | 72 |
15 | Great Britain (GBR) | 24 | 23 | 23 | 70 |
16 | Indonesia (INA) | 18 | 22 | 23 | 63 |
17 | Germany (GER) | 17 | 22 | 26 | 65 |
18 | Switzerland (SUI) | 12 | 14 | 27 | 53 |
19 | Iran (IRI) | 6 | 2 | 6 | 14 |
20 | Canada (CAN) | 5 | 15 | 14 | 34 |
21 | Venezuela (VEN) | 5 | 2 | 3 | 10 |
22 | Netherlands (NED) | 4 | 9 | 16 | 29 |
23 | Singapore (SGP) | 1 | 0 | 2 | 3 |
24 | Israel (ISR) | 1 | 0 | 0 | 1 |
25 | Hungary (HUN) | 0 | 4 | 0 | 4 |
26 | Kazakhstan (KAZ) | 0 | 2 | 0 | 2 |
27 | Soviet Union (URS) | 0 | 1 | 0 | 1 |
28 | Serbia (SRB) | 0 | 0 | 3 | 3 |
29 | Norway (NOR) | 0 | 0 | 2 | 2 |
Sweden (SWE) | 0 | 0 | 2 | 2 | |
31 | Australia (AUS) | 0 | 0 | 1 | 1 |
Bulgaria (BUL) | 0 | 0 | 1 | 1 | |
Finland (FIN) | 0 | 0 | 1 | 1 | |
Hong Kong (HKG) | 0 | 0 | 1 | 1 | |
Totals (34 entries) | 1,038 | 1,044 | 1,028 | 3,110 |
Competition climbing is a form of regulated rock climbing competition held indoors on purpose-built artificial climbing walls. The three competition climbing disciplines are lead climbing, bouldering, and speed climbing. The result of multiple disciplines can be used in a "combined" format to determine an all-round winner. Competition climbing is sometimes called "sport climbing", which is the name given to pre-bolted lead climbing.
The International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) is the international governing body for the sport of competition climbing, which consists of the disciplines lead climbing, bouldering, and speed climbing.
The IFSC Climbing World Championships are the biennial world championship event for competition climbing that is organized by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC). This event determines the male and female world champions in the three disciplines of competition climbing: competition lead climbing, competition bouldering, and competition speed climbing. Since 2012, a combined ranking is also determined, for climbers competing in all disciplines, and additional medals are awarded based on that ranking. The first event was organized in Frankfurt in 1991.
The 2017 IFSC Climbing World Cup was held in 15 locations. Bouldering competitions were held in 7 locations, lead in 8 locations, and speed in 7 locations. The season began on 7 April in Meiringen, Switzerland and concluded on 12 November in Kranj, Slovenia.
The 2018 IFSC Climbing World Cup was held in 14 locations. There were 22 events: 7 bouldering, 7 lead, and 8 speed events. The season began on 13 April in Meiringen, Switzerland, and concluded on 28 October in Xiamen, China.
The 2016 IFSC Climbing World Cup was held in 16 locations. Bouldering, lead and speed competitions were held in 7 locations. The season began on 15 April in Meiringen, Switzerland and concluded on 27 November in Kranj, Slovenia.
The 2015 IFSC Climbing World Cup was held in 13 locations. Bouldering competitions were held in 5 locations, lead in 7 locations, and speed in 5 locations. The season began on 17 May in Central Saanich, Canada and concluded on 15 November in Kranj, Slovenia.
The 2014 IFSC Climbing World Cup was held in 16 locations. Bouldering competitions were held in 8 locations, lead in 8 locations, and speed in 7 locations. The season began on 26 April in Chongqing, China and concluded on 16 November in Kranj, Slovenia.
The 2013 IFSC Climbing World Cup was held in 19 locations. Bouldering competitions were held in 8 locations, lead in 8 locations, and speed in 7 locations. The season began on 22 March in Chongqing, China and concluded on 17 November in Kranj, Slovenia.
The 2011 IFSC Climbing World Cup was held in 20 locations. Bouldering competitions were held in 9 locations, lead in 10 locations, and speed in 5 locations. The season began on 14 April in Milano, Italy and concluded on 27 November in Barcelona, Spain.
The 2010 IFSC Climbing World Cup was held in 15 locations. Bouldering competitions were held in 7 locations, lead in 6 locations, and speed in 7 locations. The season began on 30 April in Trento, Italy and concluded on 14 November in Kranj, Slovenia.
The 2008 IFSC Climbing World Cup was held in 15 locations. Bouldering competitions were held in 7 locations, lead in 6 locations, and speed in 6 locations. The season began on 18 April in Hall, Austria and concluded on 16 November in Kranj, Slovenia.
The 2007 IFSC Climbing World Cup was held in 18 locations. Bouldering competitions were held in 7 locations, lead in 8 locations, and speed in 6 locations. The season began on 30 March in Erlangen, Germany and concluded on 18 November in Kranj, Slovenia.
The 2019 IFSC Climbing World Cup was held in 12 locations. Bouldering, lead and speed competitions were each held in 6 locations. The season began on 5 April in Meiringen, Switzerland with the first bouldering competition in the season, and concluded on 27 October in Inzai, Japan, with the last lead climbing competition in the season.
This is a ranking of total career IFSC victories obtained in the annual IFSC Climbing World Cup, and the biennial IFSC Climbing World Championships, which were organized by the International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation, and the International Federation of Sport Climbing.
The 2021 IFSC Climbing World Cup was the 33rd edition of the international sport climbing competition series, held in seven locations. There are 11 events: four bouldering, five lead, and two speed events. The season began on 16 April in Meiringen, Switzerland with the first bouldering competition in the season, and concluded on 4 September in Kranj, Slovenia. The International Federation of Sport Climbing had initially scheduled 18 events concluding on 31 October, but COVID-19 travel restrictions resulted in the cancellation of events in Xiamen and Wujiang in China, Jakarta in Indonesia and Seoul in South Korea.
The 2022 IFSC Climbing World Cup is the 34th edition of the international sport climbing competition series organised by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC), held in 12 locations. There are 21 events: six bouldering, seven lead, seven speed, and one bouldering & lead combined events. The series began on 8 April in Meiringen, Switzerland with the first bouldering competitions of the season, and concluded on 22 October in Morioka-Iwate, Japan, which introduced the Boulder & Lead combined format that will be used at the 2024 Summer Olympics in Paris.
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The 2023 IFSC Climbing World Cup is the 35th edition of the international competition climbing series organized by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC), held in 12 locations. There are 18 events: six bouldering, six lead, and six speed events. The series begins on 23 April in Hachioji, Japan with the first bouldering competitions of the season, and concluded on 24 September in Wujiang, China.
The 2024 IFSC Climbing World Cup is the 36th edition of the international competition climbing series organised by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC), held in 9 locations. There are 16 events per gender: five competition bouldering, six competition lead climbing, and five competition speed climbing events. The series begins on 8 April in Keqiao, Shaoxing, China, with the first bouldering World Cup of the season, and will conclude on 8 October in Seoul with bouldering, lead, and speed.