Speed climbing

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Speed climbing is a climbing discipline in which speed is the ultimate goal. [1] Speed climbing is done on rocks, walls and poles and is only recommended for highly skilled and experienced climbers. [2]

Contents

Competition speed climbing, which takes place on an artificial and standardized climbing wall, is the main form of speed climbing. However, there are types of speed climbing that take place outdoors, such as climbing famous big wall climbing routes in the shortest times, notable examples being on El Capitan in Yosemite National Park.

Competition speed climbing

Competition speed climbing as governed by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) takes place on 15-metre (49 ft) artificial walls. Competitors climb a 5-degree overhanging IFSC-certified wall, with an auto-belaying system from the top of the wall. [3]

Since 2007 the IFSC has created a standard wall for the world record. The standard has a simple rule and it involves climbers competing on the same route, side by side, and whoever reaches the top first wins. [4] The holds and order are always identical, and the difficulty rating is around F6b (approximately YDS 5.10c), which is a level most recreational climbers could complete. The IFSC also sanctions speed climbing competitions [5] and those events that entail world record attempts. [6] Speed climbing was one of the three climbing modalities included in the combined format at the 2020 Olympic Games in Tokyo, along with lead and bouldering. Beginning at the 2024 Summer Olympics in Paris, speed climbing will be its own standalone competition, separate from the lead and bouldering combined event. [7]

Time is determined by mechanical-electric timing (the competitor leaves the starting pad and strikes a switch at the top of the route). When mechanical-electric timing is used, the climbing time is displayed with an accuracy of one-hundredth of a second. In the rules modifications in 2018, the possibility to use manual timing was removed, and the mechanical-electric timing should record with a precision of 1/1000 second. This precision is only used for ranking in case of a tie. Further, the timing system needs to announce a false start, which is considered a start earlier than 0.1 seconds after the starting beep. [8]

World champions

The defending men's and women's speed climbing world champions are Matteo Zurloni of Italy and Desak Made Rita Kusuma Dewi of Indonesia, respectively; they won their respective speed events at the 2023 IFSC Climbing World Championships in Bern, Switzerland. [9] Veddriq Leonardo of Indonesia and Natalia Kalucka of Poland were the overall men's and women's winners for the 2023 IFSC Climbing World Cup speed series. [10] [11]

World and Olympic records

Progression of IFSC speed climbing records to July 2022

Since Qixin Zhong of China ran the 15-meter standardized wall in 6.26 seconds in 2011, the world record has been broken 15 times, ten times since 2021, most recently 4.74 seconds by Samuel Watson of USA in August 2024 at the Paris 2024 Olympics. That represents a drop of 24.3 percent since 2011.

Similarly, the women's speed climbing record has been broken 20 times since 2013, nine times since 2021, dropping from 7.85 seconds to the 6.06 seconds set by Aleksandra Mirosław of Poland in August 2024, a 22.8-percent reduction. [12]

Men's World Record History
DateTime (s)PersonLocationCompetition
August 8, 20244.74 [13] Flag of the United States.svg Samuel Watson Paris, France Olympics
August 6, 20244.75 [14] Flag of the United States.svg Samuel Watson Paris, France Olympics
April 12, 20244.798 [15] Flag of the United States.svg Samuel Watson Wujiang, China World Cup
April 12, 20244.859 [16] Flag of the United States.svg Samuel Watson Wujiang, China World Cup
April 28, 20234.90 [17] Flag of Indonesia.svg Veddriq Leonardo Seoul, South Korea World Cup
April 28, 20234.984 [18] Flag of Indonesia.svg Veddriq Leonardo Seoul, South Korea World Cup
July 8, 20225.009 [19] Flag of Indonesia.svg Kiromal Katibin Chamonix, France World Cup
June 30, 20225.04 [20] Flag of Indonesia.svg Kiromal Katibin Villars, Switzerland World Cup
June 30, 20225.09 [21] Flag of Indonesia.svg Kiromal Katibin Villars, Switzerland World Cup
May 27, 20225.10 [22] [23] Flag of Indonesia.svg Kiromal Katibin Salt Lake City, US World Cup
May 6, 20225.17 [24] Flag of Indonesia.svg Kiromal Katibin Seoul, South Korea World Cup
May 28, 20215.20 [25] Flag of Indonesia.svg Veddriq Leonardo Salt Lake City, US World Cup
May 28, 20215.25 [26] Flag of Indonesia.svg Kiromal Katibin Salt Lake City, US World Cup
April 30, 20175.48 [27] Flag of Iran.svg Reza Alipour Nanjing, China World Cup
September 12, 20145.60 [28] Flag of Ukraine.svg Danyil Boldyrev Gijon, Spain World Championships
August 31, 20145.73 [29] Flag of the Czech Republic.svg Libor Hroza  [ cs ] Arco, Italy World Cup
August 30, 20145.76 [30] Flag of the Czech Republic.svg Libor Hroza Arco, Italy World Cup
October 13, 20125.88 [31] Flag of Russia.svg Evgenii Vaitcekhovskii Xining, China World Cup
August 27, 20116.26 [32] Flag of the People's Republic of China.svg Zhong Qixin Arco, Italy World Championships
Men's Olympic Record History
DateTime (s)PersonLocationGames
August 8, 20244.74 [13] Flag of the United States.svg Samuel Watson Paris, France Paris 2024
August 6, 20244.75 [14] Flag of the United States.svg Samuel Watson Paris, France Paris 2024
August 6, 20244.79 Flag of Indonesia.svg Veddriq Leonardo Paris, France Paris 2024
August 3, 20215.45 [33] Flag of France.svg Bassa Mawem Aomi Urban Sports Park, Tokyo, Japan Tokyo 2020
Women's World Record History
DateTime (s)PersonLocationCompetition
August 5, 20246.06 [34] Flag of Poland.svg Aleksandra Mirosław Paris, France Olympics
August 5, 20246.21 [34] Flag of Poland.svg Aleksandra Mirosław Paris, France Olympics
September 15, 20236.24 [34] Flag of Poland.svg Aleksandra Mirosław Rome, ItalyIFSC European Olympic Qualifier
April 28, 20236.25 [35]

[34]

Flag of Poland.svg Aleksandra Mirosław Seoul, South Korea World Cup
April 28, 20236.35 [36]

[34]

Flag of Poland.svg Aleksandra Mirosław Seoul, South Korea World Cup
April 28, 20236.37 [37] Flag of Poland.svg Aleksandra Mirosław Seoul, South Korea World Cup
April 28, 20236.46 [38] Flag of Poland.svg Aleksandra Mirosław Seoul, South Korea World Cup
May 27, 20226.53 [39] [40] Flag of Poland.svg Aleksandra Mirosław Salt Lake City, US World Cup
May 6, 20226.64 [41] Flag of Poland.svg Aleksandra Mirosław Seoul, South Korea World Cup
August 6, 20216.84 [42] Flag of Poland.svg Aleksandra Mirosław Tokyo, Japan Olympic Games
November 21, 20206.96 [43] Flag of Russia.svg Iuliia Kaplina Moscow, Russia European Championships
October 19, 20196.99 [44] Flag of Indonesia.svg Aries Susanti Rahayu Xiamen, China World Cup
April 26, 20197.10 [45] Flag of the People's Republic of China.svg Song Yiling Chongqing, China World Cup
April 22, 20187.32 [46] Flag of France.svg Anouck Jaubert Moscow, Russia World Cup
July 22, 20177.32 [47] Flag of Russia.svg Iuliia Kaplina Wroclaw, Poland World Games
April 30, 20177.38 [48] Flag of Russia.svg Iuliia Kaplina Nanjing, China World Cup
April 23, 20177.46 [49] Flag of Russia.svg Iuliia Kaplina Chongqing, China World Cup
July 11, 20157.53 [50] Flag of Russia.svg Iuliia Kaplina Chamonix, France World Cup
June 21, 20157.56 [51] Flag of Russia.svg Iuliia Kaplina Chongqing, China World Cup
May 17, 20157.74 [52] Flag of Russia.svg Iuliia Kaplina Central Saanich, Canada World Cup
October 19, 20137.85 [53] Flag of Russia.svg Iuliia Kaplina Wujiang, China World Cup
Women's Olympic Record History
DateTime (s)PersonLocationGames
August 5, 20246.06 [34] Flag of Poland.svg Aleksandra Mirosław Paris, France Paris 2024
August 5, 20246.21 [34] Flag of Poland.svg Aleksandra Mirosław Paris, France Paris 2024
August 5, 20246.36 [54] Flag of the United States.svg Emma Hunt Paris, France Paris 2024
August 5, 20246.52 [55] Flag of Indonesia.svg Desak Made Rita Kusuma Dewi Paris, France Paris 2024
August 5, 20246.54 [56] Flag of the People's Republic of China.svg Zhou Yafei Paris, France Paris 2024
August 6, 20216.84 [57] Flag of Poland.svg Aleksandra Mirosław Tokyo, Japan Tokyo 2020
August 4, 20216.97 [58] Flag of Poland.svg Aleksandra Mirosław Tokyo, Japan Tokyo 2020

Non-competition speed climbing

Most non-competition speed climbing records lack the standards normally associated with objective records. Competition speed climber Hans Florine has written about non-competition speed climbing: "I will be the first to say that climbing is silly. To make rules about it is just piling ridiculous on top of silly." [59]

However, various climbers have set "speed records" on well-known and frequently climbed routes, such as Dan Osman climbing Lover's Leap via the Bear's Reach route (5.7, 120+ metre) in 4 min 25 sec. [60] The most notable of such records are listed below:

Notable non-competition records

California

The Nose, El Capitan

Regular Northwest Route, Half Dome

  • 1:53:25 Jim Herson and Hans Florine 1999.
  • 5:25 Heidi Wertz and Wera Shulte-Pelcum 2004 (all female ascent).
  • 3:58 Hans Florine solo 1999 (Full day also included El Cap).

Snake Dike, Half Dome

Joshua Tree National Park

Colorado

Bastille Crack

  • 00:05:33 Mic Fairchild solo 1998.

Third Flatiron

Nevada

Epinephrine

Cat In The Hat

New York

The Gunks

  • 50 Routes 13:30 Peter Darmi solo 2004.
  • 46 Routes 13:30 Eric Weigeshoff and Peter Darmi 2004. 3400' of climbing and descent.
  • 51 Routes 13:30 Eric Weigeshoff and Peter Darmi 2006 3400' of climbing and descent.

Wyoming

Grand Traverse

See also

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Hans Florine</span> American rock climber (born 1964)

Hans Florine is an American rock climber, who holds the record for the number of ascents of Yosemite Valley's El Capitan and is known for holding the speed record on The Nose of Yosemite’s El Capitan 8 different times. Hans' last speed record on The Nose was accomplished with Alex Honnold for climbing The Nose in 2:23:46, on June 17, 2012. In addition to climbing El Capitan over 175 times, Hans also holds the record for the number of ascents of The Nose, climbing it more than 111 times.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Yuji Hirayama</span> Japanese rock climber

Yuji Hirayama is a Japanese rock climber specializing in lead climbing competitions. He won two Lead World Cups, in 1998 and in 2000. He is notable for being the first-ever climber to onsight an 8c (5.14b) route, and for his various speed records on El Capitan.

<i>Regular Northwest Face of Half Dome</i> Multi-pitch climbing route in Yosemite, US

The Regular Northwest Face of Half Dome was the first Grade VI big wall climbing route in the United States. It was first climbed in 1957 by a team consisting of Royal Robbins, Mike Sherrick, and Jerry Gallwas. Its current aid climbing rating is VI 5.9 A1 or 5.12 for the free climbing variation. It is recognized in the historic climbing text Fifty Classic Climbs of North America and considered a classic around the world.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Competition climbing</span> Competitive rock climbing

Competition climbing is a form of regulated rock climbing competition held indoors on purpose-built artificial climbing walls. The three competition climbing disciplines are lead climbing, bouldering, and speed climbing. The result of multiple disciplines can be used in a "combined" format to determine an all-round winner. Competition climbing is sometimes called "sport climbing", which is the name given to pre-bolted lead climbing.

<i>The Nose</i> (El Capitan) Multi-pitch climbing route in Yosemite, US

The Nose is a big wall climbing route up El Capitan. Once considered impossible to climb, El Capitan is now the standard for big wall climbing. It is recognized in the historic climbing text Fifty Classic Climbs of North America and considered a classic around the world.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Alex Honnold</span> American rock climber (born 1985)

Alex Honnold is an American rock climber best known for his free solo ascents of big walls. Honnold rose to worldwide fame in June 2017 when he became the first person to free solo a route on El Capitan in Yosemite National Park, a climb described in The New York Times as "one of the great athletic feats of any kind, ever." Honnold also holds the record for the fastest ascent of the "Yosemite Triple Crown", an 18-hour, 50-minute link-up of Mount Watkins, The Nose, and the Regular Northwest Face of Half Dome. In 2015, he won a Piolet d'Or in alpine climbing with Tommy Caldwell for their completion of the enchainment of the Cerro Chaltén Group in Patagonia over 5 days.

USA Climbing is the national governing body of the sport of competition climbing in the United States. As a 501(c)3 non-profit, they promote Sport Climbing which comprises three competition disciplines: bouldering, lead climbing, and speed climbing, in elite, youth and collegiate formats.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Shauna Coxsey</span> English rock climber

Shauna Coxsey is an English professional rock climber. She is the most successful competition climber in the UK, having won the IFSC Bouldering World Cup Season in both 2016 and 2017. She retired from competition after competing in the 2020 Olympics., and continues to climb at a high level outdoors.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Magnus Midtbø</span> Norwegian rock climber

Magnus Rognan Midtbø is a Norwegian rock climber, competition climber, and YouTube video blogger. He was born in Bergen, Norway. He retired from competition climbing in 2017.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Reza Alipour</span> Iranian speed climber from Qazvin

Reza Alipour Shenazandifard is an Iranian competition speed climber from Qazvin.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Tomoa Narasaki</span> Japanese rock climber (born 1996)

Tomoa Narasaki is a Japanese professional rock climber who specializes in bouldering and competition bouldering.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Miho Nonaka</span> Japanese rock climber (born 1997)

Miho Nonaka is a Japanese competition climber who specializes in competition bouldering. She is an Olympic silver medalist in sport climbing.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Iuliia Kaplina</span> Russian speed climber (born 1993)

Iuliia Vladimirovna Kaplina is a Russian competition climber who has won multiple competition speed climbing events and set multiple world records. She was the world record holder in women's speed climbing until 6 August 2021, setting the record at the 2020 European Championships in Moscow (6.964).

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Aleksandra Mirosław</span> Polish speed climber (born 1994)

Aleksandra (Ola) Mirosław is a Polish soldier and competition speed climber. She is a two-time women's speed world champion as well as the current women's competition speed climbing world record holder. Mirosław won the gold medal at the 2024 Summer Olympics in the speed climbing event, becoming the first ever Olympic champion in this event.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Bassa Mawem</span> French professional rock climber (born 1984)

Bassa Mawem is a French professional speed climber who specialises in competition climbing. He qualified for the 2020 Summer Olympics. He also qualified for the 2024 Olympics.

The 2021 IFSC Climbing World Cup was the 33rd edition of the international sport climbing competition series, held in seven locations. There are 11 events: four bouldering, five lead, and two speed events. The season began on 16 April in Meiringen, Switzerland with the first bouldering competition in the season, and concluded on 4 September in Kranj, Slovenia. The International Federation of Sport Climbing had initially scheduled 18 events concluding on 31 October, but COVID-19 travel restrictions resulted in the cancellation of events in Xiamen and Wujiang in China, Jakarta in Indonesia and Seoul in South Korea.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Veddriq Leonardo</span> Indonesian rock climber (born 1997)

Veddriq Leonardo is an Indonesian competition climber who specializes in competition speed climbing. He has held the world record for the discipline for about a year twice, first after setting it en route to winning the men's speed climbing event at the 2021 IFSC Climbing World Cup in Salt Lake City, and again at the 2023 IFSC Climbing World Cup in Seoul. He is the current Olympic champion, having won speed climbing in 2024, thus becoming the first Indonesian non-badminton Olympic gold medalist.

Speed climbing competitions at the 2021 IFSC Climbing World Cup are being held at two locations, from 28 May to 3 July 2021. The International Federation of Sport Climbing had originally scheduled six speed climbing events concluding on 31 October, but COVID-19 travel restrictions resulted in the cancellation of events in Xiamen and Wujiang in China, Jakarta in Indonesia and Seoul in South Korea.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Kiromal Katibin</span> Indonesian rock climber (born 2000)

Kiromal Katibin is an Indonesian competition climber who specializes in competition speed climbing. He was the world record holder in speed climbing, with a time of 5.009 seconds recorded at 2022 IFSC Climbing World Cup in Chamonix, France in July 2022, until it was broken by his compatriot Veddriq Leonardo in April 2023. He finished second overall in the men's speed category during the 2021 IFSC Climbing World Cup series. Katibin also has four career IFSC Climbing World Cup medals, all in speed.

Samuel Watson is an American professional rock climber who specializes in competition speed climbing and represents the United States at IFSC Climbing World Cups. He holds the world record for the discipline at 4.74 seconds, accomplished at the 2024 Summer Olympics in Paris, France, where he took a bronze medal.

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