Topo (climbing)

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Examples of topos
Routen Westliche Zinne Nord.jpg
Basic topo of the big wall climbing routes on the north face of the Cima Ovest of the Tre Cime di Lavaredo
Calcuneum.svg
Graphical topo for multi-pitch sport route L'explosion des Calcanéums, 230m, 6-pitches, 6a+  (5.10b) [1]

In climbing, a topo (short for topology) is a graphical representation of a climbing route. Topos range from a photograph of the climb on which the line of the route is overlaid, to a detailed diagram of the key features and challenges of the climb (often represented as standardized symbols).

Contents

Climbing guidebooks compile topos for routes at a crag or in a climbing area. Online climbing databases and apps merge detailed beta (i.e. how to overcome the hardest challenges) as well as the traditional topo information. Some hand-drawn topos by the climber(s) who completed the first ascent of important new routes are notable.

Description

The term "topo" means "topographical" information, which has historically meant showing the climber not just the basic line of the route, but also the key rock (or topological) features that defined the route. This would help to guide the climbers along the route and also to prepare them for the specific types of technical challenges that lay ahead. Such topological features include cracks, overhangs and roofs, slabs, and dihedrals. [2]

Modern topos for single-pitch climbing routes, tend to be limited to photographs on which the line of the route is overlaid, and are often presented in groups where multiple routes are shown for a given section on a single photograph for a section of the rock face. Such topos assume that the climber can inspect the route from below and will be aware of the main obstacles that lay ahead. [3]

Long climbing routes, such as those found in multi-pitch climbing, big wall climbing, and alpine climbing, have far more detailed topos (often in complex route diagrams), so that the climbers don't veer off the route (a major issue for long routes, and a serious one on exposed rock and alpine faces), and so that they are aware of important belaying, abseiling, and portaledge/bivouac points. The topos of longer routes also provide detailed information on the variations in the technical grade of each pitch of the route, the availability of climbing protection (e.g. pitons and bolts), as well as options and variations on the route (e.g. easier variations around difficult obstacles). [4]

Symbols

UIAAToposymbol Uberhang.jpg
UIAAToposymbol Bohrhaken.jpg
UIAAToposymbol Verschneidung.jpg
UIAAToposymbol Wachte.jpg
UIAA topo symbols for (clockwise from top left): an overhang, a bolt, a cornice, and a dihedral. [5]

Topos often use standardized symbols or icons to represent the features and obstacles along the route. A notable example are the UIAA recommended symbols that were proposed for use in guidebooks, particularly for long alpine and big wall climbing routes. The UIAA list includes over 30 standardized symbols that cover a range of important information for any climbing route, and they are still in use today (see images opposite). [4] [5]

Other climbing guidebook publishers (e.g. such as 'RockFax'), have also developed their own customized symbols and icons that they use to augment their topo diagrams and photographs. [6]

Online

The development of interactive online apps and detailed databases of climbing routes has dramatically increased the detail of topos (e.g. providing detailed YouTube videos on how to climb a route including key movements and sections). Topo diagrams are increasingly interactive, and sometimes three dimensional, [7] where the climber can scroll through a climb to examine every feature in rich detail. [8] [9] With such data, the line between traditional topo information and detailed beta information is increasingly blurred. [10] [11]

First ascent

Andy Kirkpatrick updating the topo while on the aid climbing route Tribal Rite (5.8, A3+), El Capitan. Andy Kirkpatrick El Capitan.webp
Andy Kirkpatrick updating the topo while on the aid climbing route Tribal Rite (5.8, A3+), El Capitan.

The climber(s) who make the first ascent and/or first free ascent of multi-pitch routes will typically hand-draw the first topo of the new climb to clarify the route they have completed, and their assessment of the main obstacles and their technical grade. Subsequent climbers will update/amend these topos as they ascend the route. [12] Some hand-drawn topos have become iconic in climbing, [13] and the hand-drawn topos of notable big wall climbs, such as many famous routes on El Capitan, are preserved in the climbing media. [14]

See also

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Climbing</span> Activity to ascend a steep object

Climbing is the activity of using one's hands, feet, or other parts of the body to ascend a steep topographical object that can range from the world's tallest mountains to small boulders. Climbing is done for locomotion, sporting recreation, for competition, and is also done in trades that rely on ascension, such as rescue and military operations. Climbing is done indoors and outdoors, on natural surfaces, and on artificial surfaces

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Grade (climbing)</span> Degree of difficulty of a climbing route

Many climbing routes have a grade that reflects the technical difficulty—and in some cases the risks and commitment level—of the route. The first ascensionist can suggest a grade, but it will be amended to reflect the consensus view of subsequent ascents. While many countries with a strong tradition of climbing developed grading systems, a small number of grading systems have become internationally dominant for each type of climbing, which has contributed to the standardization of grades worldwide. Over the years, grades have consistently risen in all forms of climbing, helped by improvements in climbing technique and equipment.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Climbing route</span> Path to scale a mountain, rock, or ice wall

A climbing route is a path by which a climber reaches the top of a mountain, or rock/ice-covered obstacle. The details of a climbing route are recorded in a climbing guidebook and/or in an online climbing route database, and will include elements such as the type of climbing route, the difficulty grade of the route–and beta on its crux(es)–and any risk or commitment grade, the length and number of pitches of the route, and the climbing equipment needed to complete the route.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Glossary of climbing terms</span> For rock climbing and mountaineering

Glossary of climbing terms relates to rock climbing, mountaineering, and to ice climbing.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">First ascent</span> Mountaineering and climbing term

In mountaineering and climbing, a first ascent, is the first successful documented climb to the top of a mountain or the top of a particular climbing route. Early 20th-century mountaineers and climbers focused on reaching the tops of iconic mountains and climbing routes by whatever means possible, often using considerable amounts of aid climbing, and/or with large expedition style support teams that laid "siege" to the climb.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Ice climbing</span> Type of climbing with ice tools

Ice climbing is a climbing discipline that involves ascending routes consisting of frozen water. To ascend the route, the ice climber uses specialist equipment, particularly double ice axes and rigid crampons. To protect the route, the ice climber uses steel ice screws that require skill to employ safely and rely on the ice holding firm in any fall. Ice climbing routes can vary significantly by type, and include seasonally frozen waterfalls, high permanently frozen alpine couloirs, and large hanging icicles.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Rock-climbing equipment</span> List of manmade gear

Rock-climbing equipment varies with the type of climbing undertaken. Bouldering needs the least equipment outside of shoes and chalk and optional crash pads. Sport climbing adds ropes, harnesses, belay devices, and quickdraws to clip into pre-drilled bolts. Traditional climbing adds the need for carrying a "rack" of temporary passive and active protection devices. Multi-pitch climbing adds devices to assist in ascending and descending fixed ropes. And finally aid climbing uses unique equipment.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Dry-tooling</span> Form of mixed climbing on bare rock

Dry-tooling is a form of mixed climbing that is performed on bare, ice-free, and snow-free, routes. As with mixed climbing, the climber uses ice axes and crampons to ascend the route, but uses only rock climbing equipment for protection; many modern dry-tooling routes are now fully bolted like sport climbing routes. Indoor ice climbing competitions are held on non-ice surfaces and are effectively dry-tooling events.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Aid climbing</span> Type of rock climbing

Aid climbing is a form of rock climbing that uses mechanical devices and equipment, such as aiders, for upward momentum. Aid climbing is the opposite of free climbing, which only uses mechanical equipment for protection, but not to assist in upward momentum. "Traditional aid climbing" involves hammering in permanently fixed pitons and bolts, into which aiders are clipped, whereas "clean aid climbing" avoids hammering, using only removable placements.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Sport climbing</span> Type of rock climbing

Sport climbing is a type of free climbing in rock climbing where the lead climber clips into pre-drilled permanent bolts for their protection while ascending a route. Sport climbing differs from the riskier traditional climbing where the lead climber has to insert temporary protection equipment while ascending.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Climbing guidebook</span> Database of climbing routes

Climbing guidebooks are used by mountaineers, alpinists and rock climbers to locate, assess, and navigate climbing routes on mountains or crags. Many guidebooks also offer condensed information about local restaurants, bars, and camping areas; often include sections on geology and local climbing history; and may contain many pictures to inspire climbers. Guidebooks may range in size from pamphlets detailing dozens of routes up to tomes that document thousands of routes. The library of the American Alpine Club contains over 20,000 books and videos, a majority of which are such guidebooks. In the Alps the Alpine Club Guide series is very comprehensive.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Pitch (climbing)</span> Steep section of a climbing route requiring a rope

In climbing, a pitch is a section of a climbing route between two belay points, and is most commonly related to the task of lead climbing, but is also related to abseiling. Climbing on routes that require only one pitch is known as single-pitch climbing, and climbing on routes with more than one pitch is known as multi-pitch climbing.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Rock climbing</span> Type of sport

Rock climbing is a sport in which participants climb up, across, or down natural rock formations or indoor climbing walls. The goal is to reach the summit of a formation or the endpoint of a usually pre-defined route without falling. Rock climbing is a physically and mentally demanding sport, one that often tests a climber's strength, endurance, agility and balance along with mental control. Knowledge of proper climbing techniques and the use of specialized climbing equipment is crucial for the safe completion of routes.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Multi-pitch climbing</span> Type of climbing

Multi-pitch climbing is a type of climbing that typically takes place on routes that are more than a single rope length in height, and thus where the lead climber cannot complete the climb as a single pitch. Where the number of pitches exceeds 6–10, it can become big wall climbing, or where the pitches are in a mixed rock and ice mountain environment, it can become alpine climbing. Multi-pitch rock climbs can come in traditional, sport, and aid formats. Some have free soloed multi-pitch routes.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Beta (climbing)</span> Climbing term for route information

Beta is a climbing term that designates information about how to ascend a climbing route. Traditionally sourced in climbing guidebooks, online databases and apps now provide very detailed climbing beta. The term is attributed to Texan climber Jack Mileski.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">History of rock climbing</span> Key chronological milestones

In the history of rock climbing, the three main sub-disciplines—bouldering, single-pitch climbing, and big wall climbing—can trace their origins to late 19th-century Europe. Bouldering started in Fontainebleau, and was advanced by Pierre Allain in the 1930s, and John Gill in the 1950s. Big wall climbing started in the Dolomites, and was spread across the Alps in the 1930s by climbers such as Emilio Comici and Riccardo Cassin, and in the 1950s by Walter Bonatti, before reaching Yosemite where it was led in the 1950s to 1970s by climbers such as Royal Robbins. Single-pitch climbing started pre-1900 in both the Lake District and in Saxony, and by the late-1970s had spread widely with climbers such as Ron Fawcett (Britain), Bernd Arnold (Germany), Patrick Berhault (France), Ron Kauk and John Bachar (USA).

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Big wall climbing</span> Type of rock climbing

Big wall climbing is a form of rock climbing that takes place on long multi-pitch routes that normally require a full day, if not several days, to ascend. In addition, big wall routes are typically sustained and exposed, where the climbers remain suspended from the rock face, even sleeping hanging from the face, with limited options to sit down or escape unless they abseil back down the whole route. It is therefore a physically and mentally demanding form of climbing.

<i>The Nose</i> (El Capitan) Multi-pitch climbing route in Yosemite, US

The Nose is a big wall climbing route up El Capitan. Once considered impossible to climb, El Capitan is now the standard for big wall climbing. It is recognized in the historic climbing text Fifty Classic Climbs of North America and considered a classic around the world.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Mixed climbing</span> Ice climbing on ice and rock surfaces

Mixed climbing is a climbing discipline used on routes that do have not enough ice to be pure ice climbs, but are also not dry enough to be pure rock climbs. To ascend the route, the mixed climber uses ice climbing tools, but to protect the route, they use traditional or sport rock climbing tools. Mixed climbing can vary from routes with sections of thick layers of ice and sections of bare rock to routes that are mainly bare rock but which is “iced-up”.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Alpine climbing</span> Type of mountaineering

Alpine climbing is a type of mountaineering that involves using any of a broad range of advanced climbing skills, including rock climbing, ice climbing, and/or mixed climbing, to summit typically large routes in an alpine environment. While alpine climbing began in the European Alps, it is used to refer to climbing in any remote mountainous area, including in the Himalayas and in Patagonia. The derived term alpine style refers to the fashion of alpine climbing to be in small lightly-equipped teams who carry all of their own equipment, and do all of the climbing.

References

  1. "L'explosion des Calcanéums (6a sport climbing route)". thecrag. 3 November 2023.
  2. Lourens, Tony (2005). Guide to Climbing. Stackpole Books. pp. 93–94. ISBN   9780811701525 . Retrieved 11 September 2017.
  3. Pesterfield, Heidi (2007). Traditional Lead Climbing: A Rock Climber's Guide to Taking the Sharp End of the Rope. Wilderness Press. pp. 107–110. ISBN   9780899975597 . Retrieved 11 September 2017.
  4. 1 2 Ryan, Mick; James, Alan (July 2002). How to write ... a MiniGuide (PDF). RockFax. pp. 1–15. Retrieved 26 August 2023.
  5. 1 2 "Climbing topos". Outdoor Active Magazine. November 2023.
  6. "Database Symbols". RockFax. 2023. Retrieved 3 November 2023.
  7. Arvesen, Amelia (17 February 2020). "Climb Assist Beta Provides 3D Topo Maps of Popular Climbing Destinations". Climbing . Retrieved 4 November 2023.
  8. Pardy, Aaron (17 July 2023). "Has the Future of Climbing Guidebooks Arrived in Squamish?". Gripped Magazine. Retrieved 3 November 2023.
  9. Adamson, Michael (6 February 2009). "The Guidebook Odyssey – Unearthing the epic task of writing a guidebook". Climbing . Retrieved 26 August 2023.
  10. Gerry, Aaron (29 September 2023). "The Best Climbing Apps of 2023". Climbing . Retrieved 28 October 2023.
  11. Gerry, Aaron (4 May 2021). "Mountain Project, OpenBeta, and the Fight Over Climbing Data Access". Climbing . Retrieved 28 October 2023.
  12. Climbing Desk (28 January 2011). "Hot List 2010 Topo Maps". Climbing . No. 293. Retrieved 4 November 2023.
  13. Kennedy, Hayden (Winter 2019). "The Art of the Topo". Alpinist . No. 68. Retrieved 4 November 2023.
  14. McNamara, Chris (17 May 2012). "Yosemite Big Wall First Ascent Topos". SuperTopo. Retrieved 4 November 2023.