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Glossary of climbing terms relates to rock climbing (including aid climbing, lead climbing, bouldering, and competition climbing), mountaineering, and to ice climbing. [1] [2] [3]
The terms used can vary between different English-speaking countries; many of the phrases described here are particular to the United States and the United Kingdom.
The technical difficulty grading system for aid climbing (both for "original" and an adapted version for "new wave"), which goes: A0, A1, A2, A3, A4, A5 and up to A6 (for "new wave"). See C-grade . [4]
A type of anchor used in abseiling especially in winter and in ice climbing.
A term used to describe a progress capture device or a self-locking device such as a Petzl GriGri that immediately locks if the rope travels through it quickly in a specific direction. See auto belay .
A technique by which a climber descends via a fixed rope that is firmly attached to a fixed anchor point, which is also known as an "abseil station". See tat and cord .
Type of protection that dynamically changes to absorb the shape and strength of a fall; active protection is the opposite of passive protection. See cams and friends.
Part of the alpine climbing system for grading the technical difficulty of alpine climbing routes, which goes: F ("facile/easy"), PD ("peu difficile/little difficult"), AD ("assez difficile/fairly hard"), D ("difficile/difficult"), TD ("très difficile/very hard"), and ED ("extrêmement difficile/extremely difficult"); ED then goes ED1, ED2, ED3, .. etc. [4] [6]
A type of abseiling technique performed face first; used for military purposes. [9]
A hollow telescopic tubular device manufactured by Trango for use as protection in off-width crack climbing. [18]
A crude overnight camp or shelter on a climbing route; on a sheer vertical wall, a portaledge can be used.
Where the belayer uses their body, and not a mechanical belay device, to increase braking force when belaying; usually involves wrapping the rope around their waist or hip. [19]
A piece of metal that is pre-attached to a bolt (i.e. before the bolt is screwed in) into which quickdraws can be clipped.
A highly secure anchor, or a particularly solid handhold or foothold. [1] [2] [21]
The technical difficulty grading system for aid climbing that is "clean" (i.e. no hammered pitons or bolts), which goes: C0, C1, C2, C3, C4, and C5; also has an A-grade equivalent of the "original" aid grades for "new wave". [4]
An aluminum loop with a spring-loaded gate used to attach various load-bearing climbing devices together. [1]
An Australian term for a metal hex-headed machine bolt that functions like a bolt but with no fixed bolt hanger; climbers attach to the carrot bolt by using a version of a rivet hanger or by attaching a removable bolt hanger plate. [24]
A stone wedged in a crack that can be threaded to create a point of protection in traditional climbing. [1] [2] [27]
A device for removing jammed protection equipment, especially nuts, from a route.
General term for the wide range of specialized ropes that are used in all forms of climbing. [29]
The process of attaching the rope to protection (usually via a carabiner), to belay devices, or to other anchors. See tie in.
A small nut on a loop of wire with a head made of metal (often copper), soft enough to deform during placement, which is often with a hammer; commonly used in aid climbing as a point of placement, remaining fixed in-situ after placement.
A short piece of thin climbing rope used for various purposes in climbing, including for creating abseil stations. See tat . [29]
A hold which is only just big enough to be grasped with the tips of the fingers. [1] [2] [12]
Where mixed climbing routes are completed in fully dry conditions (i.e. no ice or snow), the "M" suffix of the M-grade is swapped for a "D".
An object which lies horizontally, buried in the snow, serving as an anchor for an attached fixed rope. [33]
A mechanical device that enables a controlled descent on a fixed rope; belay devices can be descenders. [2]
A drug to treat high-altitude cerebral edema (HACE) and high-altitude pulmonary edema (HAPE). [35]
Friction from the rope running over the rock and through the lower protection. See slack and double ropes . [38] [39] [40]
A type of anchor used in soft rock instead of bolts that uses a "baby angle" (piton) hammered into a drilled hole, which some think is better in soft rock than bolts that can crack the rock. [41] [42]
An advanced rock-climbing technique where the knee is dropped downwards to twist the hips—and the centre of gravity—closer to the rock face, thus increasing the amount of upward reach and torque available to the climber; the unique stresses on the knee can lead to serious injuries. [1] [11]
Type of dry-tooling with additional restrictions and particularly a prohibition on yaniro moves.
A piece of protection equipment used in via ferrata climbing to absorb the energy of the arrest of any fall. See lanyard .
A peak that appears to be the pinnacle of the mountain but upon reaching, it turns out the summit is higher (and further ahead).
An advanced climbing technique in which the climber hooks a leg over the opposite arm (which needs to be in a good handhold), and then pushes down with this leg to achieve a greater vertical reach; more common in mixed climbing. [2]
A variation of the figure-four move where the "same-side" leg is used instead of the "opposite" leg. [2]
A knot commonly used to tie in a climber's harness to the climbing rope.
A type of jam using the fingers in a crack. [1]
The first successful ascent of a new route by any means, including aid climbing (i.e. not via free climbing).
The first ascent of a new route without aid, following the free climbing criteria of a redpoint.
The first female to complete a free ascent of a route that has already had an FFA.
The French grade system for bouldering, which goes: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6A, 6B, 6C, 7A, 7B, 7C, .... , to 9A; with the American V-grade system, is the most common worldwide boulder-grading system. Font grades are often confused with French grades. [6]
A technique of jamming the foot into a large crack by twisting so that the heel and toes touch the sides.
The French grade system for sport climbing, which goes: 5a, 5b, 5c, 6a, 6b, 6c, 7a, 7b, 7c, .... , to 9c; with the American YDS system, is the most common sport climbing grading system. French grades are often confused with font grades. [6]
Ascending a sport climbing route but only using traditional climbing protection (e.g. Principle Hope ). See redpoint . [48]
Where a lead climber falls and hits the ground, either because their protection failed (e.g. zipper fall), the runout was too great, or the belayer failed to arrest or hold the rope. [2]
A training device to increase the climber's arm and finger strength. See campus board . [49]
To hang on the rope, or a piece of protection, after falling, and then start reclimbing without returning to the ground. [50]
A severe and often fatal form of altitude sickness caused by physical exertion without sufficient oxygen. [35]
A severe form of altitude sickness caused by physical exertion without sufficient oxygen. [35]
A sewn nylon webbing load-bearing device that is worn around the climber's waist and thighs, and to which the climbing rope, and other load-bearing climbing devices, can be attached. [2]
Top-roping a traditional climbing route before lead climbing it to practice the moves. See redpoint . [48]
A combination of a toe hook and heel hook to hold the body onto the climbing route.
A protective device consisting of an eccentric hexagonal nut attached to a wire loop.
A mechanical piece of climbing equipment used in aid climbing. See also skyhook .
Lightweight rigid aluminum ladders are used in expedition style mountaineering to cross crevasses or on difficult sections as a form of aid climbing support (this can also be done with flexible bachar ladders). See also aider .
Climbing an edge by side-pulling with both hands and using opposing friction for the feet. [1] [2] [11]
A form of climbing in which a lead climber clips their belay rope into protection equipment as they ascend. [1] [2]
The individual ascending the route in lead climbing; the other person is the belayer. [1] [2]
Part of the mixed climbing system for grading the technical difficulty of mixed climbing routes, which goes: M1, M2, M3, M4, M5, M6, and up to M14. [4] See also D-grade .
A simple hitch used for belaying without a mechanical belay device.
A North American grading system used mainly in big wall climbing and alpine climbing; goes from I, II, III ... to VII.
The easiest and most frequently used route for ascending and descending a climb. [59]
See cleaning tool .
An adjustable attachment point from a climber to a fixed anchor, give them flexibility to perform other tasks.
A hold, which must be "pinched" between the fingers to use it. [2] [12]
A flat or angled metal blade of steel for protection that incorporates a clipping hole for a carabiner or a ring in its body that is hammered into cracks; comes in a wide range of designs and types for different crack types and widths; common in aid climbing, big wall climbing, and alpine climbing. [1] [2] See also RURP .
Forcefully exhaling to facilitate O2/CO2 exchange at altitude.
Used in bouldering to describe the sequence of moves to be overcome. [2]
A mechanical climbing device that allows the rope to move through it in only one direction, examples being the Petzl Micro Traxion or the Camp Lift; PCDs are used in many climbing tasks including gear hauling, belaying, top rope solo climbing and in simul-climbing. [62] [63] See also Self-locking device .
An attempt over time to climb a new (worldwide or personal) route or boulder problem as a "project".
The lightweight mechanical pully that has wide application in climbing including big wall climbing (especially gear hauling) and crevasse rescue and in tyrolean traverseing.
The accumulation of metabolic waste products in the forearm(s) so that holding a basic grip becomes impossible. [2]
A piece of climbing protection that is used to attach a running rope to an anchor or a bolt. See permadraw . [1] [2]
A screw-type oval-shaped stainless steel carabiner which is smaller than the normal carabiner.
Secondary or intermediate fixed anchor point(s) along the length of a fixed rope (i.e. in addition to the main anchor at the top of the fixed rope) that is used to avoid edges that could increase rope wear. [65]
Free climbing a route by leading it after having failed it or practiced it beforehand (e.g. by hangdogging, headpointing, or top roping). A route climbed on the first-ever attempt (and no practice), it is an onsight or a flash. See first free ascent . [1] [2]
A removable protection bolt, similar in concept to a sliding nut, but shaped to fit into a drilled hole; popular in aid climbing.
A light metal plate with several holes that can be used as a multi-anchor device that several items can be attached to at a belay station, notable versions include the Petzl PAW.
A piece of aid climbing equipment used by the lead climber to attach to bolt runner rivets in the rock. See also carrot bolt .
A lightweight hammer with a short handle used for inserting pitons, bolts, and copperheads in aid climbing and big wall climbing. See also ice hammer .
Part of the deep-water soloing system for grading the objective danger difficulty of DWS climbing routes, which goes: S0, S1, S2, and S3. See also X .
A small climbing hold screwed onto the wall on a climbing wall.
The act of using a mechanical device for belaying in solo climbing. See self-locking device .
The involuntary vibration of the leg due to fatigue and/or panic and stress. [2]
An advanced technique in which two climbers move simultaneously upward, with the leader placing protection that the second removes as they advance. A protection capture device (PCD) may also be used. [72]
A type of active protection device used in crack climbing. See cam . [2]
The act of taking the slack out of a rope; also a climbing command by a lead climber to the belayer. [1]
Adhesive tape that is wrapped around the fingers and hands to protect the skin; particularly useful in crack climbing.
To physically attach the harness to the climbing rope, usually via a figure-eight knot. See clip in .
To belay from a fixed anchor point above the climb; if the climber falls, they just hang. See hangdogging. [2] [1] [3]
A style of lead climbing where protection is placed as the lead climber ascends; opposite of sport climbing. [2] [3]
A big wall climbing technique where the lead climber carries an additional static rope (in addition to their dynamic climbing rope) that hangs (or "trails") behind them as they ascend; the trail rope enables the belayer to pass equipment to the leader during the ascent, and for the leader to haul up equipment as the belayer ascends. [22] [61]
The UIAA grade system for rock climbing, which goes: ... VI, VII, VIII, IX, X, XI, .... , to XII; is less common than the French grade system or the American YDS grade system, but still used in Germany and parts of Eastern Europe. [6]
A downward hold which is gripped with the palm of the hand facing upwards. [1] [2] [11]
A grading system for bouldering problems invented by John Sherman, which goes: V0, V1, V2, V3, V4, V5, V6, V7, ... , to V17. The V-scale and the French font scale are the most common boulder grading systems in use worldwide. [1] [6]
A type of abseiling point used especially in winter and in ice climbing.
Part of the ice climbing system for grading the technical difficulty of ice climbing routes, which goes: WI1, WI2, WI3, WI4, WI5, WI6, and up to WI13. [4] See also M-grade .
A traditional climbing ground fall where all the protection gear fails in sequence (i.e. opens like a "zip"). [2] [80]
Climbing is the activity of using one's hands, feet, or other parts of the body to ascend a steep topographical object that can range from the world's tallest mountains to small boulders. Climbing is done for locomotion, sporting recreation, for competition, and is also done in trades that rely on ascension, such as construction and military operations. Climbing is done indoors and outdoors, on natural surfaces, and on artificial surfaces
Traditional climbing is a type of free climbing in rock climbing where the lead climber places the protection equipment while ascending the route; when the lead climber has completed the route, the second climber then removes the protection equipment as they climb the route. Traditional climbing differs from sport climbing where the protection equipment is pre-drilled into the rock in the form of bolts.
A climbing route is a path by which a climber reaches the top of a mountain, a rock face or an ice-covered obstacle. The details of a climbing route are recorded in a climbing guidebook and/or in an online climbing-route database. Details recorded will include elements such as the type of climbing route, the difficulty grade of the route–and beta on its crux(es)–and any risk or commitment grade, the length and number of pitches of the route, and the climbing equipment that is needed to complete the route.
Rock-climbing equipment varies with the specific type of climbing that is undertaken. Bouldering needs the least equipment outside of climbing shoes, climbing chalk and optional crash pads. Sport climbing adds ropes, harnesses, belay devices, and quickdraws to clip into pre-drilled bolts. Traditional climbing adds the need to carry a "rack" of temporary passive and active protection devices. Multi-pitch climbing, and the related big wall climbing, adds devices to assist in ascending and descending fixed ropes. Finally, aid climbing uses unique equipment to give mechanical assistance to the climber in their upward movement.
Free climbing is a form of rock climbing in which the climber can only use climbing equipment for climbing protection but not as an artificial aid to help them in ascending the route. Free climbing, therefore, cannot use any of the tools that are used in aid climbing to help overcome the obstacles encountered while ascending a route. The development of free climbing was an important moment in the history of rock climbing, including the concept and definition of what determined a first free ascent of a route by a climber.
Solo climbing, or soloing, is a style of climbing in which the climber climbs a route alone, without the assistance of a belayer or being part of a rope team. By its very nature, solo climbing presents a higher degree of risk to the climber, and in some cases, particularly where the climber is also not using any form of climbing protection, it is considered an extremely high-risk activity.
Aid climbing is a form of rock climbing that uses mechanical devices and equipment, such as aiders, for upward momentum. Aid climbing is contrasted with free climbing, which only uses mechanical equipment for protection, but not to assist in upward momentum. Aid climbing can involve hammering in permanent pitons and bolts, into which the aiders are clipped, but there is also 'clean aid climbing' which avoids any hammering, and only uses removable placements.
Sport climbing is a type of free climbing in rock climbing where the lead climber clips into pre-drilled permanent bolts for their protection while ascending a route. Sport climbing differs from the riskier traditional climbing where the lead climber has to insert temporary protection equipment while ascending.
In climbing and mountaineering, belaying comprises techniques used to create friction within a climbing protection system, particularly on a climbing rope, so that a falling climber does not fall very far. A climbing partner typically applies tension at the other end of the rope whenever the climber is not moving, and removes the tension from the rope whenever the climber needs more rope to continue climbing. The belay is the place where the belayer is anchored, which is typically on the ground, or on ledge but may also be a hanging belay where the belayer themself is suspended from an anchor in the rock on a multi-pitch climb.
Lead climbing is a technique in rock climbing where the 'lead climber' clips their rope to the climbing protection as they ascend a pitch of the climbing route, while their 'second' remains at the base of the route belaying the rope to protect the 'lead climber' in the event that they fall. The term is used to distinguish between the two roles, and the greater effort and increased risk, of the role of the 'lead climber'.
Top rope climbing is a form of rock climbing where the climber is securely attached to a climbing rope that runs through a fixed anchor at the top of the climbing route, and back down to the belayer at the base of the climb. A climber who falls will just hang from the rope at the point of the fall, and can then either resume their climb or have the belayer lower them down in a controlled manner to the base of the climb. Climbers on indoor climbing walls can use mechanical auto belay devices to top rope alone.
In rock climbing, a bolt is a permanent anchor fixed into a hole drilled in the rock as a form of climbing protection. Most bolts are either self-anchoring expansion bolts or fixed in place with liquid resin. Climbing routes that are bolted are known as sport climbs, and those that do not use bolts, are known as traditional climbs.
Clean climbing is rock climbing techniques and equipment which climbers use in order to avoid damage to the rock. These techniques date at least in part from the 1920s and earlier in England, but the term itself may have emerged in about 1970 during the widespread and rapid adoption in the United States and Canada of nuts, and the very similar but often larger hexes, in preference to pitons, which damage rock and are more difficult and time-consuming to install. Pitons were thus eliminated in North America as a primary means of climbing protection in a period of less than three years.
In climbing, a pitch is a section of a climbing route between two belay points, and is most commonly related to the task of lead climbing, but is also related to abseiling. Climbing on routes that require only one pitch is known as single-pitch climbing, and climbing on routes with more than one pitch is known as multi-pitch climbing.
Rock climbing is a climbing sports discipline that involves ascending routes consisting of natural rock in an outdoor environment, or on artificial resin climbing walls in a mostly indoor environment. Routes are chronicled in guidebooks, and on online databases, with the details of how to climb the route, and who made the first ascent and the coveted first free ascent. Climbers will try to ascend a route onsight, however, a climber can spend years projecting a route before they make a redpoint ascent.
Multi-pitch climbing is a type of climbing that typically takes place on routes that are more than a single rope length in height, and thus where the lead climber cannot complete the climb as a single pitch. Where the number of pitches exceeds 6–10, it can become big wall climbing, or where the pitches are in a mixed rock and ice mountain environment, it can become alpine climbing. Multi-pitch rock climbs can come in traditional, sport, and aid formats. Some have free soloed multi-pitch routes.
In rock climbing, a redpoint is the free-climb of a route by lead climbing where the climber never used the rope, or any other artificial aids such as their climbing protection, to hold any of their weight during the climb. The climber is allowed to have practiced the route many times beforehand — such as by headpointing or by top roping — and/or to have failed on numerous previous attempts.
In rock climbing, an anchor can be any device or method for attaching a climber, rope, or load to a climbing surface—typically rock, ice, steep dirt, or a building—either permanently or temporarily. The intention of an anchor is case-specific but is usually for fall protection, primarily fall arrest and fall restraint. Climbing anchors are also used for hoisting, holding static loads, or redirecting a rope.
Rope-solo climbing or rope-soloing is a form of solo climbing, but unlike with free solo climbing, which is also performed alone and with no climbing protection whatsoever, the rope-solo climber uses a mechanical self-belay device and rope system, which enables them to use the standard climbing protection to protect themselves in the event of a fall.
Big wall climbing is a form of rock climbing that takes place on long multi-pitch routes that normally require a full day, if not several days, to ascend. In addition, big wall routes are typically sustained and exposed, where the climbers remain suspended from the rock face, even sleeping hanging from the face, with limited options to sit down or escape unless they abseil back down the whole route, which is a complex and risky action. It is therefore a physically and mentally demanding form of climbing.
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