Belay device

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Petzl Reverso, Verso, GRIGRI Petzl Belay Devices.jpg
Petzl Reverso, Verso, GRIGRI

A belay device is a mechanical piece of climbing equipment used to control a rope during belaying. [1] It is designed to improve belay safety for the climber by allowing the belayer to manage their duties with minimal physical effort. With the right belay device, a small, weak climber can easily arrest the fall of a much heavier partner. Belay devices act as a friction brake, so that when a climber falls with any slack in the rope, the fall is brought to a stop.

Contents

Typically, when the rope is held outward, away from the body, it moves relatively freely, so the belayer can take up or pay out slack. When the rope is brought backward, to the side of the body, the rope is forced into tight bends and rubs against the device and/or against itself, allowing the belayer to arrest the descent of a climber in the case of a fall. This rubbing slows the rope, but also generates heat. Some types of belay devices can arrest a fall without the belayer taking any action, while others require the belayer to hold or pull the rope in a particular direction.

Belay devices usually attach to the harness of the belayer via a carabiner, and are usually made of aluminium or an alloy. Some belay devices can also be used as descenders for a controlled descent on a rope, that is abseiling or rappeling.

Many belay devices can be used to control either one rope, or two ropes in parallel. There are many reasons why the two-rope option might be chosen by a climber, including the consideration of reducing rope drag.

There are also auto-belay devices on the market which allow a climber to climb solo in their climbing gym.

Types

Aperture

This is a device that you feed a bight (loop) of rope through a hole or aperture and then hook it into a locking carabiner on the harness.

Sticht plate

Sticht plate. Sticht plate.jpg
Sticht plate.

The Sticht plate was the first mechanical rope brake, named after its designer, Fritz Sticht. It consists of a small metal plate with a slot that allows a bight of rope to pass through to a locking carabiner and back out. This locking carabiner is clipped to the belayer who is then able to lock the rope at will.

Some plates had two slots for double ropes. The slots could also be different sizes for different diameter ropes e.g. 9 mm and 11 mm. A wide wire spring may be attached on one side to help keep the plate away from the brake carabiner to ease feeding and taking in rope. A smaller hole is often present for accessory cord to carry the device. Sticht plates are typically forged from aluminium alloy in a round disc shape, although other shapes such as rounded rectangles were also made.

Although any belaying plate with one or two slots is often called a Sticht plate, Fritz Sticht originally patented [2] the design with Hermann Huber for Salewa GmbH in 1970, who sold it as the Salewa Sticht Bremse (Sticht Brake).

Sticht plates have become less popular since more modern designs provide smoother control over the rope and are less prone to jamming, especially when doubling as a descender.

Tubular

A Tubular Belay device Tubular Belay.png
A Tubular Belay device

Also called a "tube", this type of device generally has a tubular or rectangular shape. It is an evolution of the Sticht plate's concept by creating more surface area to dissipate heat and the ability to create sharper angles which creates a stronger degree of friction which has greater stopping power. As a result, this is generally the most common type of belay device used. The commonest form of this kind of tubular belay device is the ATC, an acronym for "air traffic control".

Besides arresting the fall of a climber, these devices can also be used for rappelling. With the tubular device climbers can control rope descent and arrest falls by creating friction.

Figure eight

A figure-eight descender. Belaying8.jpg
A figure-eight descender.

Sometimes just called an "eight", this device is most commonly used as a descender. A figure eight belay devices are used for belaying. There are some which are designed specifically for belaying, however they are not generally popular due to the tendency to twist the rope. There are also variations on this design including DMM's "cardiac arrester" which does the same thing but in which the larger loop is shaped like a heart. It is designed to help stop rope twisting. Figure eights, although not the most common belay device, are still frequently found in use. For most uses, a tubular style belay device is easier and safer to use. However, due to their tendency to twist rope [3] and general disagreement about their safety, figure eights are often banned in climbing gyms.

Assisted braking

Under the right conditions, assisted braking devices (ABDs) use a sudden load on the rope to engage a camming mechanism (known as active, or mechanically assisted braking devices) or pull the belay carabiner into a pinch point (known as passive, or geometrically assisted braking devices) to prevent the rope from passing through the belay device. The terms "self-" or "auto-locking" are discouraged, because it is necessary to always keep the brake hand on the rope, [4] [5] there being conditions outside the correct function of braking. For example, icy, muddy, worn, or too-thin of a rope, and insufficient training and experience.

Guide plate

A guide plate, also known as an auto-blocking belay device, [6] is a metal plate with an elongated slot for the bight to go through and then a carabiner is attached so that when pull from the climber occurs the carabiner will be pulled to lock off the device. Examples include the GiGi by Kong.

Tubular variant

Petzl Reverso Climbing.reverso.jpg
Petzl Reverso

A similar device to the traditional tubular belay device which has two extra loops; normally situated on the front and back of the device. When the device is attached directly to an anchor point with the use of a second carabiner through the larger of the two loops it performs a similar stopping function to that created with the guide plate. The device is also able to be used as a standard tubular device when belaying from the harness.

Grigri

Petzl Grigri Petzl Grigri 2.jpg
Petzl Grigri

One of the most popular devices, a Grigri, when properly used, assists in braking the rope with a camming device that clamps the rope in the event of a fall. Because of the braking mechanism, modified belay techniques are widely used, though Petzl, the device's manufacturer, has approved only certain techniques for instructing new belayers. GRIGRI's reportedly give a harder catch than a regular belay device because they allow little to no rope slippage when catching a fall. On the upside, this is offset by the fact that the person being belayed falls a shorter distance. They are a proprietary design by Petzl.

The original Grigris rated for 10 to 11 mm single ropes, while the newer, smaller Grigri 2 is rated for 8.9 to 11 mm single ropes and optimized for 9.4 to 10.3 mm ropes. [7] Trango sells a similar assisted braking belay device called the Cinch that is rated to work on ropes from 9.4 to 11 mm.

Using a Grigri to bring up a second on a traditional anchor is however less favorable than other belay devices because the Grigri gives a more static catch with little to no rope slippage. This increases the amount of force exerted on the anchor which, in turn, increases the chance of anchor failure.

Revo

Wild Country (Oberalp) Revo. Revo Wild Country outdoor with rope.jpg
Wild Country (Oberalp) Revo.

The Revo combines the easy and dynamic handling of a tuber with the backup by a centrifugal brake. Paying out and taking in rope works fluently without resistance. Only when the rope rushes with a faster speed than 4 metre/second through the device, it arrests within a few centimetres.

Self-belay

"Silent Partner" self-belay device. Wren Industries Silent Partner.jpg
"Silent Partner" self-belay device.

Self-belay devices are designed to allow solo climbing where the climber wears the belay device, or secures it to a fixed object on the ground. These devices automatically lock without any intervention when the rope passing through reaches a sufficient velocity (during a fall), but allow rope to move relatively freely whilst climbing.

Auto-belay

Auto-belay devices belay climbers automatically, without needing a second person. While used by solo climbers outdoors, such devices are most commonly found hanging on or fixed to an artificially made climbing wall.

An auto-belay device may operate using friction, centrifugal force, hydraulics, or magnetic braking technology. [8] Auto-belay devices using magnetism as the main breaking mechanism are currently the most used, as they are self regulating. When a climber descends on a magnetic auto-belay, the speed of their descent is proportional to the climbers weight. [9]

See also

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Carabiner</span> Shackle with a spring-loaded gate

A carabiner or karabiner, often shortened to biner or to crab, colloquially known as a (climbing) clip, is a specialized type of shackle, a metal loop with a spring-loaded gate used to quickly and reversibly connect components, most notably in safety-critical systems. The word comes from the German Karabiner, short for Karabinerhaken, meaning "carbine rifle hook" used by a carbine rifleman, or carabinier, to attach his carbine to a belt or bandolier.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Glossary of climbing terms</span> For rock climbing and mountaineering

Glossary of climbing terms relates to rock climbing, mountaineering, and to ice climbing.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Rock-climbing equipment</span> List of manmade gear

Rock-climbing equipment varies with the type of climbing undertaken. Bouldering needs the least equipment outside of shoes and chalk and optional crash pads. Sport climbing adds ropes, harnesses, belay devices, and quickdraws to clip into pre-drilled bolts. Traditional climbing adds the need for carrying a "rack" of temporary passive and active protection devices. Multi-pitch climbing adds devices to assist in ascending and descending fixed ropes. And finally aid climbing uses unique equipment.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Abseiling</span> Rope-controlled descent

Abseiling, also known as rappelling, is the controlled descent of a steep slope, such as a rock face, by moving down a rope. When abseiling, the person descending controls his own movement down the rope, in contrast to lowering off, in which the rope attached to the person descending is paid out by his belayer.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Solo climbing</span> Style of climbing performed alone

Solo climbing, or soloing, is a style of climbing in which the climber climbs a route alone, without the assistance of a belayer. By its very nature, it presents a higher degree of risk to the climber, and in some cases, is considered extremely high risk. Note that the use of the term "solo climbing" is generally separate from the action of bouldering, which is itself a form of solo climbing, but with less serious consequences in the case of a fall. The most dangerous form of solo climbing is free solo climbing, which means both climbing alone and without any form of climbing protection.

Self-locking devices are devices intended to arrest the fall of solo climbers who climb without partners. This device is used for rope solo climbing, for "ground-up climbing", and for "top rope solo climbing". To date, several types of self-locking devices have evolved.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Belaying</span> Rock climbing safety technique using ropes

Belaying is a variety of techniques climbers use to create friction within a climbing system, particularly on a climbing rope, so that a falling climber does not fall very far. A climbing partner typically applies tension at the other end of the rope whenever the climber is not moving, and removes the tension from the rope whenever the climber needs more rope to continue climbing.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Top rope climbing</span> Type of rock climbing

Top rope climbing is a form of rock climbing where the climber is securely attached to a climbing rope that runs through a fixed anchor at the top of the climbing route, and back down to the belayer at the base of the climb. A climber who falls will just hang from the rope at the point of the fall, and can then either resume their climb or have the belayer lower them down in a controlled manner to the base of the climb. Climbers on indoor climbing walls can use mechanical auto belay devices to top rope alone.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Fall factor</span> Mathematical ratio relevant to climbing safety

In lead climbing using a dynamic rope, the fall factor (f) is the ratio of the height (h) a climber falls before the climber's rope begins to stretch and the rope length (L) available to absorb the energy of the fall,

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Munter hitch</span> Adjustable knot used control friction in a belay system

The Munter hitch, also known as the Italian hitch, mezzo barcaiolo or the crossing hitch, is a simple adjustable knot, commonly used by climbers, cavers, and rescuers to control friction in a life-lining or belay system. To climbers, this hitch is also known as HMS, the abbreviation for the German term Halbmastwurfsicherung, meaning half clove hitch belay. This technique can be used with a special "pear-shaped" HMS locking carabiner, or any locking carabiner wide enough to take two turns of the rope.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Ascender (climbing)</span> Devices used for ascending, braking, or protection in climbing

An ascender is a device used for directly ascending a rope, or for facilitating protection with a fixed rope when climbing on very steep mountain terrain. A form introduced in the 1950s became so popular it begat the term "Jumar" for the device, and the verb "to jumar" to describe its use in ascending.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Petzl</span> French consumer goods company

Petzl is a French manufacturer of climbing gear, caving gear, work-at-height equipment, and headlamps based in Crolles, France. The company was created by the cave explorer Fernand Petzl in the mid-1970s. Their three specialties are:

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Prusik knot</span> Type of knot

A Prusik is a friction hitch or knot used to attach a loop of cord around a rope, applied in climbing, canyoneering, mountaineering, caving, rope rescue, ziplining, and by arborists. The term Prusik is a name for both the loops of cord used to tie the hitch and the hitch itself, and the verb is "to prusik" or "prusiking". More casually, the term is used for any friction hitch or device that can grab a rope. Due to the pronunciation, the word is often misspelled Prussik, Prussick, or Prussic.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Single-rope technique</span>

Single-rope technique (SRT) is a set of methods used to descend and ascend on the same single rope. Single-rope technique is used in caving, potholing, rock climbing, canyoning, roped access for building maintenance and by arborists for tree climbing, although to avoid confusion in the tree climbing community, many have taken to calling it "stationary" rope technique.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Reverso (climbing)</span> Belay device for climbing

A Reverso is a belay device developed and patented by Petzl, used for example in rock-climbing and other activities which involves rope-work. Another version of this device is the Reversino, intended for use with thinner ropes.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Dynamic rope</span> Rope designed to stretch under load

A dynamic rope is a specially constructed, somewhat elastic rope used primarily in rock climbing, ice climbing, and mountaineering. This elasticity, or stretch, is the property that makes the rope dynamic—in contrast to a static rope that has only slight elongation under load. Greater elasticity allows a dynamic rope to more slowly absorb the energy of a sudden load, such from arresting a climber's fall, by reducing the peak force on the rope and thus the probability of the rope's catastrophic failure. A kernmantle rope is the most common type of dynamic rope now used. Since 1945, nylon has, because of its superior durability and strength, replaced all natural materials in climbing rope.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Grigri</span> Assisted braking belay device

A Grigri is an assisted braking belay device manufactured by Petzl designed to help secure rock-climbing, rappelling, and rope-acrobatic activities. Its main characteristic is a clutch that assists in braking under a shock load. The success of this device has led to grigri becoming a common name for devices of this type. In 2011 a new version, the Grigri 2, was released to replace the original 1991 model. Petzl released the Grigri+ in 2017, adding safety features to the original design, however this added weight and many climbers felt the new safety features were more of a hindrance than a help. 2019 saw the release of an updated version of the device, simply called the Grigri. It is named for the African amulet gris-gris, believed to protect the wearer from evil.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Petzl Stop</span>

A Petzl Stop is a descender used primarily in caving and formerly used for industrial rope access made by the French company Petzl.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Figure 8 (climbing)</span> Device for abseiling

The figure 8 belay device is a piece of metal in the shape of an 8 with one large end and one small end.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Revo (climbing)</span> Semi-automatic belay device

The Revo is a semi-automatic belay device manufactured under the brand Wild Country by manufacturer Oberalp, for sports climbing with single ropes. It appeared on the market in autumn 2018.

References

  1. Cox, Steven M.; Kris Fulsaas, eds. (2003). Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills (7 ed.). Seattle: The Mountaineers. ISBN   0-89886-828-9.
  2. http://worldwide.espacenet.com/publicationDetails/biblio?CC=DE&NR=1927155A1&KC=A1&FT=D&ND=5&date=19701126&DB=EPODOC&locale=en_EP
  3. US2628653A,Charles, Sherman Delmar,"Wire rope sleeve twisting device",issued 1953-02-17
  4. "The DMM Pivot: Innovation Worth the Effort - Alpinist.com". www.alpinist.com. Retrieved 2018-03-31. hence the proper phrase used for these devices—"assisted braking" rather than "self-locking."
  5. "Auto Lock Belay Devices". Mountain Project. Retrieved 2018-03-31. There aren't any auto-lockng belay devices outside of climbing walls because the "official" term is assisted locking braking device
  6. "Autoblocking Belay Devices". Archived from the original on 2013-10-20.
  7. http://www.petzl.com/en/Sport/Belay-devices--descenders/GRIGRI-2#descriptif Description of GRIGRI-2 at petzl.com
  8. "Why Auto Belay?". Head Rush Technologies. Retrieved 7 March 2014.
  9. "How Do Auto Belays Work: What's Going on in There?". headrushtech.com. Retrieved 2022-05-27.