List of grade milestones in rock climbing

Wolfgang Güllich set new "hardest-ever routes" multiple times

In rock-climbing, a first free ascent (FFA) is the first redpoint, onsight or flash of a single-pitch, multi-pitch (or big wall), or boulder climbing route that did not involve using aid equipment to help progression or resting; the ascent must therefore be performed in either a sport, a traditional, or a free solo manner. First-free-ascents that set new grade milestones are important events in rock climbing history, and are listed below. While sport climbing has dominated absolute-grade milestones since the mid-1980s (i.e. are now the highest grades), milestones for modern traditional climbing, free solo climbing, onsighted, and flashed ascents, are also listed.

A route's grade is provisional until enough climbers have repeated the route to have a "consensus". At the highest grades, this can take years as few climbers are capable of repeating these routes. For example, in 2001, Realization was considered the world's first 9a+  (5.15a), however, the first repeat of the 1996 route Open Air  [ de ], which only happened in 2008, suggested that it was possibly the first 9a+  (5.15a). Open Air has had no further repeats, and has had holds broken since 1996, whereas Realization has had many ascents and is thus a "consensus" 9a+. Therefore, where known, the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th ranked candidates are also chronicled. ^{[1] [2]}

As of October 2024, the hardest single-pitch redpoint was at the grade of 9c  (5.15d) for men and 9b  (5.15b) for women. The hardest onsight was at the grade of 9a  (5.14d) for men and 8c  (5.14b) for women. The hardest boulder solved was at the boulder grade of V17  (9A) for men and V15/V16 (8C/8C+)   for women. The hardest multi-pitch (or big wall) redpoint was at the grade of 9a+  (5.15a). The hardest single-pitch free solo was at the grade of 8c  (5.14b), and the hardest multi-pitch (or big wall) free solo was at 7c+  (5.13a).

Single-pitch routes

Redpointed by men

9c  (5.15d): ^[a]

Adam Ondra on Silence

• Silence – Flatanger Municipality (NOR) – September 3, 2017 – First ascent by Adam Ondra, who described it as "much harder than anything else" he had previously done, and cautiously suggested the 9c rating for the 45 m route. ^{[5] [6]} Is unrepeated (January 2025). ^[7]

• DNA  [ de ] – Verdon Gorge (FRA) – April 29, 2022 – First ascent by Sébastien Bouin who proposed the grade of 9c, saying "Comparing this route to Bibliographie , Move, Beyond [Integral], it seems a step ahead", and "To choose 9c is to take a risk". Is unrepeated (January 2025). ^{[8] [9]}

• B.I.G. (also Project Big) – Flatanger Municipality (NOR) – September 20, 2023 – First ascent by Jakob Schubert who worked on it with Adam Ondra, and after consulting with him, proposed 9c saying it was "definitely harder" than Perfecto Mundo, a "benchmark" 9b+ route. Is unrepeated (January 2025). ^{[10] [11]}

9b+  (5.15c): ^[b]

• Change  [ fr ] – Flatanger Municipality (NOR) – October 4, 2012 – First-ever 9b+ in history, by Adam Ondra; ^{[13] [14]} grade confirmed by Stefano Ghisolfi (2020). ^[15] Third ascent was by Seb Bouin (2022), who felt a kneebar made the grade closer to 9b/9b+   (5.15b/c). ^[16]

• La Dura Dura – Oliana (ESP) – February 7, 2013 – Second-ever 9b+, by Adam Ondra; ^[17] first-ever 9b+ repeat by Chris Sharma (2013). ^[18]

• Vasil Vasil – Moravský Kras (CZE) – December 4, 2013 – Third-ever 9b+, by Adam Ondra. Remains unrepeated (January 2025). ^{[19] [20]}

• Perfecto Mundo – Margalef (ESP) – May 9, 2018 – Fourth 9b+, by Alexander Megos; repeat by Stefano Ghisolfi (2018), and Jakob Schubert (2019); considered a "benchmark" 9b+ route. ^[21]

9b  (5.15b): ^{[c] [d] [e] [f]}

• Jumbo Love – Clark Mountain (US) – September 11, 2008 – First-ever 9b  (5.15b) in history, by Chris Sharma. ^[13] Repeated by Ethan Pringle (2015), ^[31] Jonathan Siegrist (2018), ^[32] and Seb Bouin (2022). ^[24]
• Golpe de Estado  [ fr ] – Siurana (ESP) – December 17, 2008 – Second-ever 9b  (5.15b), by Chris Sharma. ^[13] First-ever 9b repeat by Adam Ondra (2010) (was Ondra's first 9b). ^[33]
• Neanderthal – Santa Linya (ESP) – December 18, 2009 – Third-ever 9b  (5.15b), by Chris Sharma. ^[13] Repeated by Jakob Schubert (2018), and Adam Ondra (2019). ^[34]

9a+  (5.15a): ^{[g] [h]}

• Open Air  [ de ] – Schleier Waterfall (AUT) – 1996 – First ascent by Alexander Huber, who proposed 9a  (5.14d); it has only been repeated once in 2008 by Adam Ondra who felt it was 9a+  (5.15a), ^{[13] [38]} but the breaking of holds means it is uncertain whether Ondra did the same route. ^[39]
• Mutation – Raven Tor, Peak District (ENG) – 1998 – First ascent by Steve McClure, who graded it 9a  (5.14d). Will Bosi completed the first repeat in October 2021 and suggested the route is 9a+  (5.15a), or even harder. ^[40]
• Realization – Céüse (FRA) – July 2001 – First ascent by Chris Sharma. First consensus 9a+  (5.15a) in history. ^[13]
• La Rambla – Siurana (ESP) – March 2003 – First ascent by Ramón Julián Puigblanqué. Second consensus 9a+  (5.15a) in history. ^[13]

9a  (5.14d):

Alex Megos on Action Directe

• Action Directe – Frankenjura (DEU) – 1991 – First-ever consensus 9a in history, by Wolfgang Güllich, who originally graded it 8c+ (it held back other potential 9as), but it is now the "benchmark" for 9a. ^{[13] [41]}
• Om – Schleier Waterfall (AUT) – 1992 – Second-ever consensus 9a, by Alexander Huber. ^{[13] [41]}
• Bain de Sang  [ fr ] – Saint Loup (SUI) – 1993 – Third-ever consensus 9a, by Fred Nicole. ^{[13] [41]}
• Hugh – Les Eaux-Claires (FRA) – 1993 – Fourth-ever consensus 9a, by Fred Rouhling. ^{[13] [41]}

8c+  (5.14c):

• Liquid Ambar – Pen Trwyn, (WAL) – May 1990 – First ascent by Jerry Moffatt who graded 8c  (5.14b), but subsequent repeats have regraded it to 8c+. ^{[13] [41] [42] [43]}
• Hubble – Raven Tor, Peak District (ENG) – June 1990 – Considered first-ever consensus 8c+  (5.14c) in history, by Ben Moon; later considered a possible first 8c+/9a, or even the first-ever 9a. ^{[13] [41] [44] [42]}
• Just Do It – Smith Rock (US) – 1992 – Considered second-ever consensus 8c+  (5.14c) (after Hubble), by Jean-Baptiste Tribout. ^[41]
• Super Plafond – Volx, (FRA) – 1994 – Considered third-ever consensus 8c+  (5.14c), by Jean-Baptiste Tribout. ^{[41] [45]}

8c  (5.14b): ^[i]

• Wallstreet  [ de ] – Frankenjura (DEU) – 1987 – First-ever consensus 8c  (5.14b) in history, by Wolfgang Güllich. ^{[13] [41] [44]}
• Anaïs et le canabis – Saint Loup (SUI) – 1988 – Second-ever consensus 8c  (5.14b), by Fred Nicole. ^{[13] [41]}
• Agincourt – Buoux (FRA) – 1989 – Third-ever consensus 8c  (5.14b), by Ben Moon. ^{[41] [45]}
• Maginot Line (Plafond) – Volx (FRA) – 1989 – Fourth-ever consensus 8c  (5.14b), by Ben Moon. ^{[41] [45]}

8b+  (5.14a): ^[j]

Climber nearing the top of Punks in the Gym 32 8b+  (5.14a)

• Punks in the Gym – Mount Arapiles (AUS) – 1985 – First-ever consensus 8b+  (5.14a) in history, by Wolfgang Güllich. ^{[13] [41] [44]}
• La Rage de Vivre – Buoux (FRA) – 1986 – Second-ever consensus 8b+  (5.14a), by Antoine Le Menestrel  [ fr ]. ^{[13] [41] [44]}
• To Bolt or Not to Be – Smith Rock (US) – 1986 – Third-ever consensus 8b+  (5.14a), by Jean-Baptiste Tribout. ^{[41] [48]}
• Le Minimum – Buoux (FRA) – 1986 – Fourth-ever consensus 8b+  (5.14a), by Marc Le Menestrel  [ fr ]. ^{[13] [41]}

8b  (5.13d): ^[k]

• Kanal im Rücken – Frankenjura (DEU) – 1984 – First-ever consensus 8b  (5.13d) in history, by Wolfgang Güllich. ^{[13] [41] [44]}
• Les Mains Sales – Buoux (FRA) – 1985 – Second-ever consensus 8b  (5.13d), by Marc Le Menestrel  [ fr ]. ^{[41] [50] [44]}
• Le fluide enchanté – Mouriès (FRA) – 1985 – Third-ever consensus 8b  (5.13d), by Marc Le Menestrel  [ fr ]. ^{[41] [50]}
• La Rose et le Vampire – Buoux (FRA) – 1985 – Fourth-ever consensus 8b  (5.13d), by Antoine Le Menestrel  [ fr ]. ^[41]

8a+  (5.13c) ^[l]

• The Face  [ de ] – Altmühltal (DEU) – 1983 – First-ever consensus 8a+  (5.13c) in history, by Jerry Moffatt. ^{[13] [41]}
• Le Bidule – Le Saussois (FRA) – 1984 – Second-ever consensus 8a+  (5.13c), by Marc Le Menestrel  [ fr ]. ^{[41] [50]}

Pre-sport era

The notable first ascents that set a new highest-grade prior to The Face were traditional climbing routes:

8a  (5.13b) ^[m]

• Grand Illusion – Sugar Loaf, Lake Tahoe, CA (US) – 1979 – First-ever consensus 8a  (5.13b) in history, by Tony Yaniro. ^{[13] [41]}
• Cosmic Debris – Yosemite Valley, CA (US) – May, 1980 – Early 8a led by Bill Price. ^[53]
• Sphinx Crack – South Platte, CO (US) – April, 1981 – Early 8a led by Steve Hong. ^[54]
• 13 Boulevard du Vol – Rochers de Freyr, (BEL) – 1981 – Early consensus 8a  (5.13b), by Arnould t'Kint. ^{[13] [41]}

7c+  (5.13a)

• The Phoenix – Yosemite, CA (US) – 1977 – Considered the first-ever consensus 7c+  (5.13a) in history, by Ray Jardine (used his new cams). ^[55]
• Le Toit – Baou de Quatre Ouro (FRA) – 1981 – Second-ever consensus 7c+  (5.13a) in history, by Patrick Edlinger. ^[41]
• Le Haine – La Turbie (FRA) – March, 1981 – Third-ever consensus 7c+  (5.13a) in history, by Patrick Berhault. ^[41]
• Chimpanzodrome – Le Saussois (FRA) – April, 1981 – Fourth-ever consensus 7c+  (5.13a) in history, by Jean-Pierre Bouvier. ^[41]

7c  (5.12d)

• Psycho Roof – Eldorado, CO (US) – 1975 – Estimated as the first-ever 7c  (5.12d) in history, by Steve Wunsch; only one ascent, due to large broken flake, and was possibly harder than 7c in 1975. ^{[56] [57]}
• The Pirate – Suicide Rock, CA – (US) – 1978 – Early 7c (5.12d) by Tony Yaniro. ^[58]
• Iron Cross – Shawangunks, NY – (US) – 1978 – Early 7c (5.12d) by John Bragg. ^{[59] [60]}
• Genesis – Eldorado, CO – (US) – 1979 May – Early 7c (5.12d) by Jim Collins. ^{[61] [54]}
• Nymphodalle – Les Calanques (FRA) – 1979 – Sometimes considered first-ever consensus 7c  (5.12d) in history, by Patrick Edlinger.

7b+  (5.12c)

• Paisano Overhang – Suicide Rock, (US) – 1974 – First-ever consensus 7b+  (5.12c) climbs, by John Long. ^[41]
• Super Crack – Shawangunks, (US) – 1974 Oct – Long considered the first-ever consensus 7b+  (5.12c) by Steve Wunsch. ^{[13] [41] [44]}
• Super Crack – Shawangunks, (US) – 1977 – First-ever repeat of a consensus 7b+  (5.12c), by Ron Kauk. ^[41]

7b  (5.12b)

• English Hanging Gardens – Big Rock, Lake Perris, California, (US) – 1970 – Regraded as possible first 7b  (5.12b) in history, by John Gosling.
• Kansas City – Shawangunks, NY (US) – 1973 – One of the first-ever 5.12b/c climbs in history, by John Bragg. ^{[13] [44] [62]}
• Constable's Overhang – Wilton, (ENG) – 1973 – Possible early 7b (5.12b), as is graded "hard" E5 6b, by Hank Pasquill. ^[63]
• Fish Crack – Yosemite (US) – 1975 May – One of the first-ever 7b  (5.12b) climbs in history, by Henry Barber. ^[64]

7a+  (5.12a)

Thimble, the 1960s

• Thimble – Needles, SD, (US) – 1961 – First-ever 7a+  (5.12a) in history, by John Gill. Free soloed. ^[13]
• Macabre Roof – Ogden, Utah, (US) – 1967 – First-ever roped 7a+ (5.12a) in history, flashed by Greg Lowe. ^{[65] [66]}
• Orchrist – Almscliff, (ENG) – July 1973 – Early 7a+ (5.12a) as was graded E5 6b, by Hank Pasquill. ^[67]
• The Throne – Shawangunks, NY (US) – 1973 – Very early 7a+  (5.12a) climb, led by John Stannard. ^[59]

7a  (5.11d)

• Goliath – Burbage South Edge, (ENG) – 1958 – Possible first-ever 7a  (5.11d) at E4 6a (6c+ to 7a), by Don Whillans. ^[13]
• Foops – Shawangunks, NY (US) – 1967 October – Often considered a first-ever consensus 7a  (5.11d), by John Stannard. ^[13]
• Messner Slab – Pilastro di Mezzo, Sas dla Crusc/Heiligkreuzkofel, (ITA) – 1968 July – Contemporary re-grading implies it may be a very early 7a  (5.11d), led on sight by Reinhold Messner. ^[68]
• Schwager Nordwand – Schrammsteine, Saxon Switzerland, (DEU) – 1970 – Considered a notable early 7a  (5.11d) IXb, by Bernd Arnold.

6b+  (5.10d/11a):

• Suicide Wall, Route 1 – Idwal Slabs Ogwyn Valley (WAL) –1945 – One of the first-ever 6b+ (E2 5c, 5.10d) leads by Chris Preston. ^[69]
• Rebitsch-Spiegl (Pitch Two) – Fleischbank Wilder Kaiser (AUT) – June 20 1946 – Early 6b+ (UIAA VII) lead by Mathias Rebitsch. ^[70]

6b  (5.10c):

• Rostkante – Hauptwiesenstein Bielatel Saxon Switzerland, (DEU) –1922 – First consensus 6b lead (Saxon VIIIb, UIAA VII) by Hans Rost. ^{[71] [72]}

6a+  (5.10b):

• Westkante – Wilderkopf Affensteine Saxon Switzerland (DEU) – 1918 – Usually considered the first-ever 6a+ climb (Saxon VIIIa) by Emanuel Strubich. ^{[13] [71] [72]}

5b  (5.8):

• Perrykante – Spannagelturm, Bielatel, Saxon Switzerland (DEU) – June 1, 1906 – Often considered the first-ever 5b, even with two shoulder stands (Saxon VIIb then, harder if redpointed), by Oliver Perry Smith. ^{[71] [72]}
• Alter Weg – Teufelsturm Schmilka Saxon Switzerland (DEU) – Sept 1, 1906 – Likely the second-ever 5b, utilizing one shoulder stand at Saxon VIIb, harder if done all free, by Oliver Perry Smith. ^{[71] [72]}

Redpointed by women

9b  (5.15b): ^[n]

• La Planta de Shiva – Villanueva del Rosario (ESP) – October 22, 2017 – First-ever female ascent of a 9b route, by Angela Eiter. ^{[74] [75] [76]} Repeated by Anak Verhoeven in 2024, making her only the fourth-ever female to redpoint a 9b route. ^[77]
• Eagle–4 – Saint-Léger-du-Ventoux (FRA) – November 7, 2020 – Second-ever female ascent of a 9b, by Julia Chanourdie. ^{[78] [76]}
• Madame Ching – Tyrol (AUT) – December 16, 2020 – Third female 9b and first-ever female FFA of a 9b, by Angela Eiter. Remains unrepeated (January 2025). ^{[79] [80]}
• Erebor – Eremo di San Paolo, Arco (ITA) – October 2, 2021 – Fourth-ever female ascent of a 9b (downgraded from 9b+), by Laura Rogora. ^{[78] [76]}

9a+  (5.15a):

• La Rambla – Siurana (ESP) – February 26, 2017 – First-ever female ascent of a 9a+ route, by Margo Hayes. ^{[81] [76]}
• Sweet neuf – Pierrot Beach (FRA) – September 11, 2017 – Second-ever female ascent, ^[76] and first-ever female FFA of a 9a+, by Anak Verhoeven. ^{[82] [83]} Confirmed by Cédric Lachat  [ fr ] (2019). ^[84]
• Realization – Céüse (FRA) – September 24, 2017 – Third-ever female ascent of a 9a+ route, by Margo Hayes. ^{[76] [85]}
• Papichulo – Oliana (ESP) – March 22, 2019 – Fourth-ever female ascent of a 9a+ route, by Margo Hayes. ^{[76] [86]}

9a/9a+  :

• Bimbaluna – Saint Loup (SUI) – 1 May 2005 – World's first-ever female ascent of a 9a/9a+ route, by Josune Bereziartu. ^{[13] [81] [87] [76]}
• Open your Mind direct – Santa Linya (ESP) 17 March 2015 – Second female ascent of a 9a/9a+ route, by Ashima Shiraishi. ^{[81] [88] [76]}

9a  (5.14d): ^{[o] [p]}

• Bain de Sang  [ fr ] – Saint Loup (SUI) – October 29, 2002 – First-ever female ascent of a 9a route, by Josune Bereziartu. ^{[13] [81] [92] [76]}
• Logical Progression – Jo Yama (JPN) – November, 2004 – Second-ever female ascent of a 9a route, by Josune Bereziartu. ^[76]
• Les 3 P – La grotte du Galetas, Verdon Gorge (FRA) – August, 2011 – Third-ever female ascent of a 9a route, by Charlotte Durif  [ fr ]; initially disputed, later verified. ^{[76] [93] [89]}
• PuntX – Gorges du Loup, (FRA) – November, 2013 – Fourth-ever female ascent of a 9a route, by Muriel Sarkany. ^{[76] [94] [89]}

8c+  (5.14c):

• Honky Tonk Mix – Onate (ESP) – June, 2000 – First-ever female ascent of an 8c+ route, by Josune Bereziartu. ^{[13] [95]}
• Noia – Andonno (ITA) – October, 2001 – Second-ever female ascent of an 8c+ route, by Josune Bereziartu. ^[13]
• Na Nai – Baltzola (ESP) – June 18, 2003 – Third-ever female ascent of an 8c+ route, by Josune Bereziartu. ^[76]
• Powerade – Vadiello (ESP) – May 21, 2007 – Fourth-ever female ascent of an 8c+ route, by Josune Bereziartu. ^[76]

8c  (5.14b):

• Honky Tonky – Onate (ESP) – May, 1998 – First-ever female ascent of an 8c route, by Josune Bereziartu. ^{[13] [76] [95]}
• White Zombie – Baltzola (ESP) – May, 1999 – Second-ever female ascent of an 8c route, by Josune Bereziartu. ^{[13] [76]}
• Raz – Baltzola (ESP) – May, 1999 – Third-ever female ascent of an 8c route, by Josune Bereziartu. ^[76]
• Welcome to Tijuana – Rodellar (ESP) – May, 2000 – Fourth-ever female ascent of an 8c route, by Josune Bereziartu. ^[76]

8b+  (5.14a):

• Masse Critique – Cimai (FRA) – 1990 – First-ever female ascent of an 8b+ route, by Lynn Hill. ^{[13] [81]}
• No Sika, No Crime – Lehn (CHF) – 1993 – Second-ever female ascent of an 8b route, by Suzi Good. ^{[76] [96]}
• Silence Vertical – Troubat (FRA) – 1993 – Third-ever female ascent of an 8b route, by Robyn Erbesfield. ^{[76] [96]}
• Attention on vous regarde – Saint-Antonin-Noble-Val (FRA) – 1993 – Fourth-ever female ascent of an 8b route, by Robyn Erbesfield. ^{[76] [96]}

8b  (5.13d):

• Sortilèges – Le Cimai (FRA) – 1988 – First-ever female ascent of an 8b route, by Isabelle Patissier. ^[13]
• Sortilèges – Le Cimai (FRA) – 1989 – Second-ever female ascent of an 8b route, by Lynn Hill. ^[76]
• Sortilèges – Le Cimai (FRA) – 1989 – Third-ever female ascent of an 8b route, by Corinne Labrune  [ fr ]. ^[76]

8a+  (5.13c):

• Choucas – Buoux (FRA) – March 1988 – First-ever female ascent of an 8a+ route, by Catherine Destivelle. ^[13]

8a  (5.13b):

• Come Back – Val San Nicolò (ITA) – 1986 – First-ever female ascent of an 8a route, by Luisa Iovane  [ fr ]. ^{[13] [76]}
• Rêve de Papillon – Buoux (FRA) – 1987 – Second-ever female ascent of an 8a route, by Christine Gambert  [ fr ]. ^{[13] [76]}
• Rêve de Papillon – Buoux (FRA) – 1987 – Third-ever female ascent of an 8a route, by Lynn Hill. ^{[13] [76]}
• Rêve de Papillon – Buoux (FRA) – 1988 – Fourth-ever female ascent of an 8a route, by Catherine Destivelle. ^[76]

7c+/8a (5.13a/b)  :

• Fleur de Rocaille – Mouriès, (FRA) – 1985 – First-ever female ascent of an 7c+/8a route, by Catherine Destivelle; was first 8a, but grade softened. ^{[13] [76]}

Pre-sport era

The notable first female ascents that set a new highest-grade pre Fleur de Rocaille were traditional climbing routes:

7c+  (5.13a):

• Vandals – Shawangunk Mountains (US) – 1984 – First-ever female ascent of a 7c+ route, by Lynn Hill. ^{[13] [76]}
• Artificial Intelligence – Shawangunk Mountains (US) – 1985 – Second-ever female ascent of a 7c+ route, by Lynn Hill. ^[76]
• Chimpanzodrome – Le Saussois (FRA) – 1985 – Third-ever female ascent of a 7c+ route, by Christine Gambert  [ fr ]. ^[76]

7c  (5.12d):

• Ophir Broke – Telluride (US) – 1979 – First free ascent and first-ever female lead of a 7c route (subsequently upgraded), by Lynn Hill. ^{[13] [76]}
• Organic Iron – Shawangunk Mountains (US) – 1984 – Second-ever female ascent of a 7c route (was considered first), by Lynn Hill. ^{[13] [76]}
• Katapult – Frankenjura (GER) – 1985 – Third-ever female ascent of a 7c route, by Isabelle Patissier. ^{[13] [76]}

7b+  (5.12c):

• Super Crack – Shawangunk Mountains (US) – 1983 July – Early female ascent of a 7b+ route, by Barbara Devine. ^{[54] [97]}
• Yellow Crack Variation – Shawangunk Mountains (US) – 1984 – Early female ascent of a 7b+ route, by Lynn Hill.
• Pichenibule (en libre) – Verdon Gorge (FRA) – 1985 – First free ascent and early female lead of a 7b+ route, by Catherine Destivelle. ^[13]

7b  (5.12b):

• Kansas City – Shawangunk Mountains (US) – 1977 – Early female ascent of a 7b route, by Barbara Devine. ^{[54] [97]}
• Tales of Power – Yosemite Valley CA (US) – 1981 – Redpoint of a 7b route by Louise Shepherd ^{[98] [99]}

7a  (5.11d):

• Foops – Shawangunk Mountains (US) – 1976 – Early female ascent of a 7a route, by Barbara Devine. ^{[100] [97]}

Onsighted / Flashed by men

With route beta on the internet, the distinction between an onsight (no prior beta) and a flash (had prior beta) is less relevant; it is recorded where noted.

9a+  (5.15a):

• Super Crackinette – Saint Léger (FRA) – 10 February 2018 – First-ever 9a+ flash (not onsight) in history, by Adam Ondra. ^[101]

9a  (5.14d):

• Southern Smoke Direct – Red River Gorge (USA) – 29 October 2012 – First-ever 9a flash (not onsight), by Adam Ondra. ^{[102] [103]}
• Estado Critico – Siurana (ESP) – 24 March 2013 – First-ever 9a onsight, by Alex Megos. ^[104]
• Cabane au Canada – Rawyl (SUI) – 9 July 2013 – Second-ever 9a onsight, by Adam Ondra. ^[105]
• Il Domani – Baltzola (ESP) – 3 May 2014 – Third-ever 9a onsight, by Adam Ondra. ^[106]

8c+  (5.14c):

• Bizi Euskaraz – Etxauri (ESP) – December 11, 2007 – First-ever 8c+ onsight, by Patxi Usobiaga. ^{[13] [107] [108]}
• Kidetasunaren Balio Erantsia – Etxauri (ESP) – March 6, 2011 – Second-ever 8c+ onsight, by Adam Ondra. ^{[107] [108]}
• Bizi Euskaraz – Etxauri (ESP) – March 7, 2011 – Third-ever 8c+ onsight, by Adam Ondra. ^{[107] [108]}
• Powerade – Vadiello (La Caverna) (ESP) – March 9, 2011 – Fourth-ever 8c+ onsight, by Adam Ondra. ^{[107] [108]}

8c  (5.14b):

• White Zombie – Baltzola (ESP) – October 6, 2004 – First-ever 8c onsight, by Yuji Hirayama. ^{[13] [109]}
• Pata Negra – Rodellar (ESP) – August 10, 2005 – Second-ever 8c onsight, by Tomáš Mrázek. ^[108]
• Gaua – Lezaia (ESP) – October 10, 2005 – Third-ever 8c onsight, by Patxi Usobiaga. ^[108]
• La Teoria Dell'8a – Grotta dell'Aeronauta (ITA) – November 23, 2005 – Fourth-ever 8c onsight, by Tomáš Mrázek. ^[108]

8b+  (5.14a):

• Massey Fergusson – Calanques (FRA) – 1995 – First-ever 8b+ onsight, by Elie Chevieux  [ de ]. ^{[13] [110]}
• Maldita María – Cuenca (ESP) – 1996 – Second-ever 8b+ onsight, by Elie Chevieux  [ de ]. ^[13]

8b  (5.13d):

• Liaisons Dangereuses – Les Calanques (Les Goudes), (FRA) – 1993 – First-ever 8b onsight, by Elie Chevieux  [ de ] ^[13]
• Public Enemy – Cuenca, (ESP) – 1993 – Originally considered the first 8a+/8b onsight, by Stefan Glowacz, but consensus grade is now 8b. ^[108]

8a+  (5.13c):

(unknown)

8a  (5.13b):

• Samizdat – Cimai (FRA) – 1987 – First-ever 8a on-sight, by Antoine Le Menestrel  [ fr ]. ^{[13] [111]}

7c+  (5.13a):

• Pol Pot – Verdon Gorge (FRA) – 1984 – First-ever 7c+ onsight, by Jerry Moffatt. ^{[13] [112] [113]}
• The Phoenix – Yosemite (FRA) – 1984 – Second-ever 7c+ onsight, by Jerry Moffatt. ^[112]
• Yesterday Direct – Mount Arapiles (AUS) – 1985 – Third-ever 7c+ (Australia 28) onsight, by Wolfgang Güllich. ^[108]

7c  (5.12d):

• Equinox – Joshua Tree (US) – 1982 – First-ever 7c flash (not onsight), by Jerry Moffatt (originally considered 7b+). ^{[13] [112]}
• La Polka des Ringards – Buoux (FRA) – 1982 – First-ever 7c onsight, by Patrick Edlinger. ^{[108] [114]}
• Heisse Finger – Frankenjura (GER) – 1983 – Second-ever 7c onsight, by Jerry Moffatt. ^{[13] [112]}
• Chasin' the Trane – Frankenjura (GER) – 1983 – Third-ever 7c onsight, by Jerry Moffatt. ^[112]

7b+  (5.12c):

• Super Crack – Shawangunks (US) – 1982 – First-ever 7b+ flash (not onsight), by Jerry Moffatt. ^{[13] [112] [115]}
• Captain crochet – Buoux (FRA) – 1982 – First-ever 7b+ onsight, by Patrick Edlinger. ^{[108] [114]}

Onsighted / Flashed by women

With route beta on the internet, the distinction between an onsight (no prior beta) and a flash (had prior beta) is less relevant; it is recorded where noted.

8c  (5.14b): ^[q]

• La Fabelita -– Santa Linya (ESP) – December 31, 2015 – First-ever female 8c flash, by Janja Garnbret (her flash of Rollito Sharma two days earlier was downgraded to 8b+). ^[119]
• Fish eye – Oliana (ESP) – November 1, 2021 – First-ever female 8c onsight, by Janja Garnbret ^{[120] [121]}
• American Hustle – Oliana (ESP) – November 4, 2021 – Second-ever female 8c onsight, by Janja Garnbret ^[120]
• L'Antagonista – Montsant (ESP) – November 25, 2022 – Third-ever female (and the second female) 8c onsight, by Chaehyun Seo. ^[122]

8b+  (5.14a): ^{[r] [s]}

• Hidrofobia – Montsant (ESP) – April, 2006 – First-ever female 8b+ onsight, by Josune Bereziartu (later considered possible 8b). ^{[13] [127] [120] [121]}
• Humildes pa casa – Oliana (ESP) – April, 2010 – Second-ever female 8b+ onsight, by Maja Vidmar (later considered possible 8b+/c). ^{[128] [123] [121]}
• Les Rois du Pétrole – Pic Saint-Loup (FRA) – July, 2010 – Third-ever female 8b+ onsight, by Charlotte Durif  [ fr ] (once considered the first 8c, ^[13] but the route was downgraded). ^{[121] [126]}
• Omaha Beach – Red River Gorge (US) – March, 2011 – Fourth-ever female 8b+ onsight, by Sasha Digiulian. ^{[123] [121] [124]}

8b  (5.13d):

• Steroid Performance – Horai (JPN) – December, 2004 – First-ever female 8b onsight, by Josune Bereziartu. ^{[13] [123]}
• Il Veccho et il Mare – Millennium Cave, Sardinia (ITA) – July, 2005 – Second-ever female 8b onsight, by Caroline Ciavaldini  [ it ]. ^[123]
• La Réserve – Saint-Léger-du-Ventoux, (FRA) – October, 2005 – Third-ever female 8b onsight, by Josune Bereziartu. ^[123]
• Fuente de Energia – La Caverna, Vadiello (ESP) – November, 2005 – Fourth-ever female 8b onsight, by Josune Bereziartu. ^[123]

8a+  (5.13c):

• Bon Vintage – Terradets (ESP) – April, 2000 – First-ever female 8a+ onsight, by Josune Bereziartu. ^{[13] [123]}
• Naska – Apellániz (ESP) – October, 2001 – Second-ever female 8a+ onsight, by Josune Bereziartu. ^[123]
• Déversé Satanique – Gorges du Loup (FRA) – October, 2001 – Third-ever female 8a+ onsight, by Josune Bereziartu. ^[123]

8a  (5.13b):

• Overdose – Lourmarin (FRA) – 1993 – First-ever female 8a/+ onsight, by Robyn Erbesfield. ^{[13] [123]}
• Simon – Frankenjura (GER) – 1992 – First-ever female 8a onsight, by Lynn Hill. ^{[13] [123]}
• Rampaneu – Frankenjura (GER) – 1992 – Second-ever female 8a onsight, by Robyn Erbesfield. ^[123]

Free-solo by men

8c  (5.14b):

• Panem et Circenses – Length: 15 metres (49 ft) – Arco (IT) – March 2021 – First-ever 8c free solo, by Alfredo Webber, aged 52. ^[129]

8b+  (5.14a):

• Kommunist – Length: 22 metres (72 ft) – Tyrol (AUT) – 2004 – The first-ever 8b+ free solo, by Alexander Huber. ^{[13] [129] [130]}
• Darwin Dixit – Length: 15 metres (49 ft) – Margalef (ESP) – March 2008 – Originally 8c, but downgraded to 8b+, by Dave MacLeod. ^{[129] [131]}

8b  (5.13d):

• Compilation – Omblèze (FRA) – 1993– First-ever 8b free solo, by Alain Robert. ^[13]
• Der Opportunist – Schleierfall (AUT) – 2003 – Second-ever 8b free solo, by Alexander Huber. ^{[13] [130]}

8a+  (5.13c):

• Rêve de gosse – La Roche-des-Arnauds (FRA) – 1987 – First-ever 8a+ free solo, by Jean-Christophe Lafaille. ^[13]

8a  (5.13b):

• Revelations – Length: 15 meters – Raven Tor, Peak District (ENG) – 1985 – First-ever 8a free solo, by Antoine Le Menestrel  [ fr ]. ^[13]

7c  (5.12d)

• Weed Killer – Length: 8 meters – Raven Tor, Peak District (ENG) – 1986 – First-ever 7c free solo, by Wolfgang Güllich. ^[13]

7b  (5.12b)

• Baby Apes – Length: 15 meters – Joshua Tree National Park (US) – 1982 – First-ever 7b free solo, by John Bachar. ^[132]
• Mickey's Beach Crack – Length: 18 meters – Mickey's Beach, San Francisco, CA (US) – 1983 – 7b free solo by Dan Goodwin. ^[133]

7a+  (5.12a)

• Thimble – Length: 9 meters – Needles, SD, (US) – 1961 – First-ever 7a+ free solo by John Gill. ^{[13] [134]}

7a  (5.11d):

• Spider Line – Length: 16 meters – Joshua Tree, CA, (US) – February 1978 – First-ever free solo at 7a by John Yablonski. ^{[135] [136]}

6c+  (5.11b/c):

• Wall of Horrors – Length: 18 meters – Almscliff, (ENG) – 1961 – First-ever free solo at E3 6a by Allan Austin. ^[137]
• Slip N Slide – Length: 8 meters – Peak District, (ENG) – 1976 – First-ever free solo at E6 6a by Ron Fawcett. ^[138]

6c  (5.11a/b):

• Western Front – Length: 13 meters – Almscliff (ENG) – July 9,1958 – One of the first-ever free solos at E3 5c, unrehearsed, by Allan Austin. ^[139]

Boulder problems

Solved by men

9A  (V17): ^{[t] [u]}

• Burden of Dreams – Lappnor (FIN) – October 2016 – First ascent by Nalle Hukkataival; ^[143] confirmed by Will Bosi in April 2023. ^[144]

• Return of the Sleepwalker – Red Rock Canyon (US) – April 2021 – First ascent by Daniel Woods; a sit start into Jimmy Webb's Sleepwalker 8C+  (V16); ^{[143] [145] [146]} confirmed by Will Bosi in February 2024. ^[147]

• Alphane – Chironico (SUI) – April 6, 2022 – First ascent by Shawn Raboutou, ^{[142] [148]} and first repeat by Aidan Roberts (October 2022); Roberts was silent on the grade having never climbed at V17, and having previously failed on Burden of Dreams. ^[149] William Bosi made a second repeat in November 2022, and after feeling that it was less of a challenge than his FA of Honey Badger 8C+, later felt it was still at 9A  (V17). ^[150]

• Megatron – Eldorado Canyon State Park (US) – 2022 – First ascent by Shawn Raboutou. The route adds a seven-move 8C  (V15) sequence from a sit start into Tron, an 8B+  (V14) route first ascended by Daniel Woods. ^[151]

8C+  (V16): ^[v]

Christian Core on Gioia  [ fr ]

• Gioia  [ fr ] – Varazze (ITA) – 2008 – Considered the first-ever 8C+  (V16), by Christian Core. ^[153] First repeat in 2011 by Adam Ondra who proposed an 8C+ grade, describing the boulder as one of the hardest in the world, together with Terranova (see below). ^[154] Third ascent by Nalle Hukkataival in 2014, and Niccolo Ceria in 2020, who were silent on grade. ^{[155] [156]} In 2015, it was discovered that new holds were chipped on the route, which Core tried to fix but not with complete success, leaving one new crimp that Core felt does lower the grade. ^[153] In 2021, a fifth repeat by Elias Lagnemma suggested a slightly lower grade of 8C/+ (using a kneepad). ^{[143] [157]}

• Livin' Large – Rocklands (ZAF) – August 2009 – First ascent by Nalle Hukkataival who graded it 8C  (V15), and first repeat in 2015 Jimmy Webb who confirmed an 8C; however, a second and third repeat by Shawn Raboutou (2018) and Ryuichi Murai (2023), suggests it is one of the first-ever 8C+  (V16) boulders. ^{[158] [159] [143]}

• Hypnotized Minds – Rocky Mountain (US) – October 2010 – Considered one of the first-ever consensus 8C+  (V16) boulders, by Daniel Woods who initially proposed V15; ^[160] first repeat by Rustam Asatowitsch Gelmanow  [ de ] (2016), and a second repeat by Dave Graham (2019), confirmed it as V16. ^{[161] [146]}

• Terranova – Holstejn (Moravsky Kras, CZE) – November 2011 – Considered an early 8C+  (V16), by Adam Ondra. Remains unrepeated (January 2025) ^{[162] [143] [146] [163]}

8C  (V15): ^{[w] [x]}

• Monkey Wedding – Rocklands (ZAF) – August 2002 – First-ever consensus 8C  (V15) in history, by Fred Nicole. ^{[13] [170]}
• Black Eagle SDS – Rocklands (ZAF) – August 2002 – Second-ever consensus 8C  (V15) in history, by Fred Nicole. ^{[13] [171] [170]}
• Viva l'Evolution – Tyrol (AUT) – September 2002 – Third-ever consensus 8C  (V15) in history, by Bernd Zangerl  [ fr ]. ^{[13] [171]}
• Walk Away SDS – Lake District, (ENG) – October 2002 – Considered the fourth-ever 8C  (V15) in history, by John Gaskins. Remains unrepeated (January 2025) ^[171]

8B+  (V14): ^[y]

• Radja – Branson, Valais (SUI) – January 1996 – First-ever consensus 8B+  (V14), by Fred Nicole. ^{[13] [146] [171]}
• Nanuk – Königsee (GER) – 1997 – After repeated in 2012, considered the second-ever 8B+  (V14), by Klem Loskot. ^{[173] [171]}
• Coeur de Lion – Hueco Tanks (US) – 1998 – Third-ever consensus 8B+  (V14), by Fred Nicole. ^{[13] [171]}

Dreamtime in Switzerland

• Dreamtime – Cresciano (SUI) – October 28, 2000 – First ascent by Fred Nicole who proposed it as the world's first 8C  (V15), but later settled at 8B+  (V14) ^[146] Dreamtime became as iconic as Midnight Lightning due to its beauty and challenge; a broken hold in 2009 regraded it closer to 8C  (V15). ^{[174] [175]}

8B  (V13):

• La Danse des Balrogs – Branson, Valais, (SUI) – 1992 – First-ever consensus 8B  (V13), by Fred Nicole. ^{[13] [171]}
• Enigma – Fontainebleau, (FRA) – 1992 – Considered the second-ever 8B  (V13), by Philippe le Denmatt. ^[13]
• Fatman – Fontainebleau, (FRA) – 1993 – Considered important early 8B  (V13), by Jacky Godoffe  [ it ]. ^[13]
• The Dominator – Yosemite, (US) – 1993 – Considered important early 8B  (V13), by Jerry Moffatt. ^[13]

8A+  (V12): ^[z]

• Trice – Boulder, Colorado (US) – 1975 – Ungraded and unrepeated for 32 years, but is now considered the world's first 8A+  (V12), by Jim Holloway. ^{[13] [171] [176]}
• Slapshot – Flatirons (US) – 1977 – Ungraded and unrepeated for years, but considered one of the world's first 8A+  (V12), by Jim Holloway, ^[13] and possibly V13  (8B). ^[171]
• L’à Plat du Gain – Fontainebleau, (FRA) – 1988 – Considered one of the first-ever ascents of an 8A+  (V12), by Alain Ghersen. ^{[13] [171]}
• Superman – Cressbrook (ENG) – 1988 – Considered one of the first-ever ascents of an 8A+  (V12), by Jerry Moffatt; now a possible 8B. ^[13]

8A  (V11):

• C’était Demain – Fontainebleau (FRA) – 1984 – Considered one of the first-ever ascents of an 8A  (V11), by Jacky Godoffe  [ it ]. ^{[13] [171]}
• Careless Torque – Stanage Edge (ENG) – 1987 – Considered one of the first-ever ascents of an 8A+  (V12), by Ron Fawcett; now at 8A. ^[13]

7C+  (V10):

• The Groove – Pueblo, Colorado (US) – 1978 – Considered one of the first-ever ascents of a 7C+  (V10), by John Gill. ^{[13] [171]}

7C  (V9):

• Red Cross Overhang, or Gill Problem – Teton Range (US) – 1959 – Considered one of the first-ever ascents of a 7C  (V9), by John Gill. ^{[13] [171]}
• Double Clutch – Flagstaff Mountain, Boulder, CO (US) – 1972 – Very early 7c (V8-V9) by Bob Williams. ^[177]
• Speed of Light Dyno – Black Mountains (US) – 1979 – Considered an important early ascent of a 7C  (V9), by John Long. ^[13]
• L'Abbé Résina – Fontainebleau, (FRA) – 1983 – Considered an important early ascent of a 7C  (V9), by Pierre Richard. ^[171]

Climber on Midnight Lightning

7B+  (V8):

• Le Carnage – Fontainebleau (FRA) – 1977 – Considered the first-ever ascent of a 7B+  (V8), by Jérôme Jean-Charles. ^[171]
• Midnight Lightning – Camp 4, Yosemite (US) – 1978 – Second-ever ascent of a 7B+  (V8), by Ron Kauk. ^{[13] [178]}

7B  (V8):

• Gill Right Problem – Teton Range (US) – 1958 – Considered one of the first-ever ascents of a V8  (7B/7B+), by John Gill. ^{[13] [171]}

7A  (V6):

• Le Joker – Fontainebleau (FRA) – 1953 – Considered one of the first-ever ascents of a V6  (7A), by Robert Paragot  [ fr ]. ^[13]

6A  (V3):

• Marie-Rose – Fontainebleau (FRA) – 1946 – Considered one of the first-ever ascents of a V3  (6A/6A+), by Rene Ferlet  [ fr ]. ^[13]

Solved by women

8C/8C+ (V15/16)  :

• Box Therapy – RMNP, (US) – 28 July 2023 – First-ever female ascent of an 8C+  (V16), by Katie Lamb. ^[179] Originally solved by Daniel Woods in 2018 who graded it 8C+  (V16), and upheld by repeaters, Brooke Raboutou suggested it was at 8C  (V15) after repeating it in October 2023. ^[180]

8C  (V15):

• E la nave va – Lindental, (SUI) – 2003 – First-ever female ascent of an 8C  (V15) boulder traverse, by Josune Bereziartu. ^{[13] [181]}

• Horizon – Mount Hiei, (JPN) – March 22, 2016 – First-ever female ascent of an 8C  (V15), by Ashima Shiraishi. ^{[146] [182] [183] [184]}
• Sleepy Rave – Hollow Mountain Cave, (AUS) – 2 August 2016 – Second-ever female ascent of an 8C  (V15), by Ashima Shiraishi. ^{[185] [183] [184]}
• Kryptos – Morchelstock, Balsthal, (SUI) – June, 2018 – Third-ever female ascent of an 8C  (V15), by Kaddi Lehmann. ^{[183] [186] [184]}
• Byaku-dou – Mount Hurai, (JPN) – May 5, 2019 – Fourth-ever female ascent of an 8C  (V15), by Mishka Ishi. ^{[183] [184]}

8B+  (V14):

• La traversia De Balzola – Balzola, (ESP) – 2002 – First-ever female ascent of an 8B+  (V14) boulder traverse, by Josune Bereziartu. ^[13]

• Catharsis – Shiobara, (JPN) – 20 October 2012 – First-ever female ascent of an 8B+  (V14), by Tomoko Ogawa. ^[187]
• Golden Shadow – Rocklands, (RSA) – 11 July 2014 – Second-ever female ascent of an 8B+  (V14), by Ashima Shiraishi. ^[188]
• New Base Line – Magic Wood, (SUI) – 12 July 2014 – Third-ever female ascent of an 8B+  (V14), by Shauna Coxsey. ^[189]

8B  (V13): ^[aa]

• The Automator – RMNP, (US) – 17 August 2010 – First-ever female ascent of an 8B  (V13), by Angie Payne. ^{[146] [191] [190]}
• The Riverbed – Magic Wood, (SUI) – 16 September 2010 – Second-ever female ascent of an 8B  (V13), by Anna Stöhr. ^{[191] [190]}
• Crow of Aragorn – Hueco Tanks, (US) – 20 March 2012 – Third-ever female ascent of 8B  (V13), by Ashima Shiraishi, and youngest (age 10). ^[192]

8A+  (V12):

• Liaison Futile – Fontainebleau, (FRA) – 13 April 1999 – First-ever female ascent of an 8A+  (V12), by Catherine Miquel. ^[13]
• Atomic Playboy – Fontainebleau, (FRA) – 2 March 2001 – Second-ever female ascent of an 8A+  (V12), by Catherine Miquel. ^[13]
• Solaris – Baltzoia, (SPA) – 15 April 2003 – Third-ever female to ascend a 8A+  (V12), by Josune Bereziartu. ^[13]

8A  (V11):

• Duel – Fontainebleau, (FRA) – October, 1998 – First-ever female ascent of an 8A  (V11), by Catherine Miquel. ^[13]
• Berezi – Larraona, (SPA) – 2001 – Second-ever female ascent of a consensus 8A  (V11), by Josune Bereziartu. ^[13]

7C+/8A  :

• Sale gosse assis – Fontainebleau, (FRA) – 1998 – First-ever female ascent of an 7C+/8A  , by Catherine Miquel. ^[13]
• Plain High Drifter – The Buttermilks, (US) – March, 2001 – Second-ever female ascent of a consensus 7C+/8A  , by Lisa Rands. ^[193]

7C+  (V10):

• Halloween – Fontainebleau, (FRA) – 1997/96 – First-ever female ascent of a 7C+  (V10), by Catherine Miquel. ^[13]
• Le Grande Bleu – Fontainebleau, (FRA) – 1999 – Second-ever female ascent of a 7C+  (V10), by Catherine Miquel. ^[13]

7C  (V9):

• Miss World – Fontainebleau, (FRA) – 1996 – First-ever female ascent of a 7C  (V9), by Catherine Miquel. ^[13]
• Mayonnaise de Passion – Fontainebleau, (FRA) – 1996 – Second-ever female ascent of a 7C  (V9), by Catherine Miquel. ^[13]

7B+  (V8):

• Le Carnage – Fontainebleau, (FRA) – 1989 – First-ever female ascent of a 7B+  (V8), by Catherine Miquel.
• Trois graines d'éternité – Fontainebleau, (FRA) – 1995 – Second-ever female ascent of a 7B+  (V8), by Dany Riche.
• Midnight Lightning – Camp 4, Yosemite, (US) – 1998 – Notable female ascent of a famous 7B+  (V8), by Lynn Hill. ^[13]

Multi-pitch routes

Given the smaller number of entries for multi-pitch and big wall routes, the sections below combine milestones for overall and female ascents. In some cases (e.g. the Salathé Wall and Dawn Wall), the first free ascent was by a climbing pair alternating leads, and in such instances, the first individual to free climb all the pitches is also recorded.

Redpointed

9a+  (5.15a):

• Valhalla (405-meters, 14 pitches) – Grand Arch, Getu Valley National Park (CHN) – 4 March 2019 – The world's longest continuous roof climb and the first-ever multi-pitch redpoint at 9a+  (5.15a), by Edu Marin  [ ca ]. ^{[194] [195] [196]}

9a  (5.14d):

• The Dawn Wall (3,000-feet, 32-pitches) – El Capitan, Yosemite (USA) – 14 January 2015 – First-ever big wall redpoint at 9a  (5.14d), by Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson in 19 days. ^{[196] [197]} First repeat on 21 November 2016 by Adam Ondra in 8 days, ^[198] leading all 32-pitches. ^[199]

• Wu Wei (180-metres, 5-pitches) – Picco delle Aquile, Dolomites (ITA) – 16 August 2023 – Second-ever multi-pitch redpoint at 9a  (5.14d), by Alessandro Zeni. ^{[196] [200]}

8c+  (5.14c):

• Lurgorri (250-metres, 6-pitches) – Naranjo de Bulnes (ESP) – 13 August 2006 – First-ever multi-pitch redpoint at 8c+  (5.14c), by brothers Iker Pou  [ es ] and Eneko Pou  [ es ] . ^{[196] [201]}

• Nirwana (200-metres, 5-pitches) – Sonnwendwand, (AUT) – 9 September 2012 – Second-ever multi-pitch redpoint at at 8c+  (5.14c), by Alexander Huber. ^{[196] [202] [203]}

8c  (5.14b):

Climbers on the roof of Pan Aroma (and Bellavista) 8c  (5.14b) on the Cima Ovest in the Dolomites.

• Bellavista  [ it ] (500-metres, 10-pitches) – Cima Ovest, Dolomites (ITA) – 18 July 2001 – First-ever big wall redpoint at 8c  (5.14b), by Alexander Huber; ^{[196] [204]} repeating the route in 2007 (to create Pan Aroma, also 8c), Huber found some key holds were "treated" from a 2005 attempt, and the crux was heavily lined with pegs, which had softened the grade to 8b/8b+. ^{[205] [206]}

• Pan Aroma  [ it ] (450-metres, 9-pitches) – Cima Ovest, Dolomites (ITA) – 26 July 2007 – Second-ever big wall redpoint at 8c  (5.14b), by Alexander Huber; ^[196] shares the first 5 pitches of Bellavista to the great roof and then follows Bauer's  [ de ] famous aid climbing route. ^{[196] [207] [208]}

• WoGü  [ it ] (250-metres, 7-pitches) – Rätikon (SUI) – 26 July 2008 – Third-ever multi-pitch redpoint at 8c  (5.14b), by a 15-year old Adan Ondra; ^[196] created by Beat Kammerlander  [ de ] who never fully freed the line. ^[209]

• Orbayu (510-metres, 13-pitches) – Naranjo de Bulnes (ESP) – 2009 – Fourth-ever multi-pitch redpoint at 8c  (5.14b), by brothers Iker Pou  [ es ] and Eneko Pou  [ es ] . ^{[196] [210]}

8b+  (5.14a):

• Neverending Story (450-metres, 11-pitches) – 7th Kirlichspitze, Rätikon (SUI) – 1991 – First multi-pitch at 8b+  (5.14a), by Beat Kammerlander  [ de ]. ^{[196] [211]}

• The Nose (870-metres, 31-pitches) – El Capitan, Yosemite (USA) – 1993 – Second multi-pitch at 5.14a  (8b+), ^[196] by Lynn Hill (partnered by Brooke Sandahl); a major milestone in female rock climbing; in 1994, Hill led it all in under 24 hours;. ^[212]

• After The Nose, the Alpine Trilogy  [ it ] were the next 8b+  (5.14a) graded multi-pitch routes to be fully freed: ^[196]

• Des Kaisers neue Kleider  [ it ], (250-metres, 9-pitches) – Fleischbank (AUT) – 1994 – Multi-pitch at 5.14a  (8b+), by Stefan Glowacz. ^[213]
• The End of Silence  [ it ] (350-metres, 11-pitches) – Berchtesgaden (GER) – 1994 – Multi-pitch at 5.14a  (8b+), by Thomas Huber. ^[213]
• Silbergeier  [ de ] (185-metres, 6-pitches) – Rätikon (SWZ) – 1993/94 – Multi-pitch at 5.14a  (8b+), by Beat Kammerlander  [ de ]. ^[213]

8a+  (5.13c):

• New Age (150-metres, 5-pitches) – 7th Kirlichspitze, Rätikon (SUI) – 1989 – First multi-pitch at 8a+  (5.13c), by Beat Kammerlander  [ de ]. ^[211]

8a  (5.13b):

• Salathé Wall (870-metres, 35-pitches) – El Capitan, Yosemite (USA) – 1988 – First big wall free climb at 8a  (5.13b), by Todd Skinner and Paul Piana (alternating leads). ^{[214] [215]} In 1995, Alexander Huber led all 35-pitches to become the first individual to free a big wall route at the grade. ^[216]

7c+  (5.13a):

• Via Acacia (330-metres, 9-pitches) – 5th Kirlichspitze, Rätikon (SUI) – 1988 – First big wall free climb at 7c+  (5.13a), by Martin Scheel  [ de ]. ^[211]

7b+  (5.12c):

• Regular Northwest Face (690-meters, 24 pitches) – Half Dome, Yosemite (USA) – 1976 – First big wall free climb at 7b+ (5.12c) by Art Higbee and Jim Erickson. ^{[217] [218] [215]} 20 years later, a variation to the crux pitch was found to keep the entire route at 5.12a.
• Hall of Mirrors (650-meters, 16 pitches) – Glacier Point, Yosemite (USA) –1980 – Second big wall free climb at 7b+ (5.12c) by Chris Cantwell, Scott Burk, Scott Cole. ^{[219] [54] [215]}
• Amarcord (400-metres, 9-pitches) – 7th Kirlichspitze, Rätikon (SUI) – 1984 – Third big wall free climb at 7b+  (5.12c), by Martin Scheel  [ de ]. ^[211]

7b  (5.12b):

• Hotline (200-meters, 7-pitches) – Yosemite Valley (US) – 1975 – Multi-pitch free climb at 5.12b by Ron Kauk and John Bachar. ^{[220] [54]}
• Pegasus (360-meters, 14-pitches) Quarter Dome, Yosemite Valley (US) – 1979 – Big Wall free climb at 5.12b by Max Jones and Mark Hudon. ^{[219] [215]}

7a+  (5.12a):

• Macabre Wall (180-meters, 5-pitches) – Ogden, UT (US) – 1967 – Multi-pitch free climb at 5.12a led by Greg Lowe. ^{[65] [66]}
• Footless Crow (60-meters, 2-pitches) – Goat Crag, Lake District (UK) – April 1974 – Multi-pitch free climb at E5 6b by Pete Livesey, harder today due to large broken flake. ^[67]
• Air Voyage (550-meters, 13-pitches) – Black Canyon National Park CO (US) – 1979 – Big Wall free climb at 5.12a by Leonard Coyne and Ken Sims. ^{[219] [221]}

7a  (5.11d):

• Infinite (91-meters, 3-pitches) – Clamshell Rock, City of Rocks, ID (US) –1967 – Multi-pitch climb at 5.11d led onsight by Greg Lowe. ^{[222] [54]}
• Mittelpfeiler (300-meters, 7-pitches) Sass dla Crusc, Dolomites, (ITA) – July 1968 – Multi-pitch free climb at UIAA Grade VIII led on sight by Reinhold and Günther Messner. ^{[219] [68]}

6c+  (5.11b/c):

• New Frontier (75-meters, 2-pitches) – Millbrook Shawangunks NY (US) – 1969 – Multi-pitch Free Ascent at 5.11b by Gary Brown and John Stannard. ^{[223] [59]}
• Naked Edge (205-meters, 7-pitches) – Redgarden Wall Eldorado Canyon CO (US) – Oct 1971 – Multi-pitch Free Ascent at 5.11b by Jim Erickson and Duncan Ferguson. ^{[221] [224]}
• Wide Country (120-meters, 4-pitches) – Bastille Eldorado Canyon CO (US) – June 1972 – First Free Ascent at 5.11b by Duncan Ferguson and Don Peterson. ^{[224] [225]}
• Basket Case (255-meters, 7-pitches) – Basket Dome Yosemite CA (US) – June 1972 – Multi-pitch free climb at 5.11b by Mark Klemens, Jim Bridwell and Jim Donini. ^[54]

6c  (5.11a/b):

• Athletes Feat (80-meters, 5-pitches) – Castle Rock, Boulder Canyon, Boulder CO (US) – 1964 – First Free Ascent by Royal Robbins and Pat Ament. ^{[54] [221]}
• Country Club Crack (60-meters, 2-pitches) – Castle Rock, Boulder Canyon, Boulder CO (US) – 1967 – First Free Ascent led by Pat Ament; the first pitch is now 5.11c as holds have crumbled. ^{[54] [221]}
• Swing Time (50-meters, 2-pitches) – Shawangunk Mountains NY (US) – 1968 – Multi-pitch First Free Ascent by John Stannard. ^{[226] [59]}

6b+  (5.10d/11a):

• Talseite (40-meters, 3-pitches) – Schwager Schrammsteine Saxon Switzerland (DEU) – 1952 – Early multi-pitch free climb, even with shoulder stands is graded Sax VIIIc, by Harry Rost. ^[227]
• Post Mortem (45-meters, 2-pitches) – Eagle Crag Borrowdale Lake District (UK) – 1956 – Early multi-pitch at E4 5c (5.11a) by Paul Ross and Peter Lockey. ^[228]

6b  (5.10c):

• Solleder Route, Direct Finish (700-meters total, 19-pitches total) –Furchetta Dolomites (ITA) – 1932 – New five-pitch variation at UIAA Grade VII added to the route by Giovanni Vinatzer and Vincenzo Perista. ^{[229] [70]}
• Rebitsch-Spiegl (300-meters, 8-pitches) – Fleischbank Wilde Kaiser (AUT) – 1946 – Multi-pitch free climb at UIAA Grade VII by Mathias Rebitsch and Sepp Spiegl. ^[70]
• Nordverschneidung (800-meters, 20-pitches) – Lalidererspitze Karwendel (AUT) – 1947 – Big wall free climb at UIAA Grade VII by Mathias Rebitsch and Franz Lorenz. ^[70]

6a+  (5.10b):

• Via Vinatzer (180-meters, 6-pitches) – Stevia, Val Gardena, Dolomites, (ITA) – 1933 – Multi-pitch at UIAA Grade VII- by Giovanni Vinatzer and Vincenzo Peristi. ^{[230] [70] [229]}
• Via Solda (650-meters, 18-pitches) – Marmolada, Dolomites, (ITA) – August 1936 – Big wall free climb at UIAA Grade VII- by Gino Solda and Umberto Conforto. ^[230]
• Via Vinatzer-Castiglioni (900-meters, 29-pitches) – Marmolada, Dolomites, (ITA) – Sept 1936 – Big wall free climb at UIAA Grade VII- by Giovanni Vinatzer and Ettore Castiglioni. ^{[230] [229]}

6a  (5.10a):

• Micheluzzi Route (720-meters, 19-pitches) – Marmolada, Dolomites, (ITA) –1929 – Big wall free climb at UIAA Grade VI+ by Luigi Micheluzzi, Roberto Perathoner, Demitrio Christomannos. ^[219]
• Spigolo Giallo (410-meters, 14-pitches) – Tre Cima, Dolomites, (ITA) – 1933 – Big wall free climb at UIAA Grade VI+ by Emilio Comici, Mary Varale, and Renatto Zanutti. ^[70]

5c  (5.9):

• Ha-He Verschneidung (360-meters, 12-pitches) – Dreizinkenspitze, Karwendel (AUT) – August 1921 – Big wall free climb at UIAA Grade VI by Otto Herzog and Gustav Haber. ^[231]
• North Face (600-meters, 20-pitches) – Furchetta, Dolomites, (ITA) – August 1, 1925 – Big wall free climb at UIAA Grade VI by Emil Solleder and Fritz Wiessner. ^[231]
• Solleder Route (1,100-meters, 44-pitches) Monte Civetta, Dolomites, (ITA) – August 4, 1925 – Big wall free climb at UIAA Grade VI by Emil Solleder and Gustl Lettenbauer. ^[231]

Free-soloed

7c+  (5.13a):

Alex Honnold's 2017 free solo of Freerider (5.13a, 7c+), El Capitan

• Freerider (915-meters, 30-pitches) – El Capitan, Yosemite (US) – 3 June 2017 – First-ever big wall free solo at 5.13a  (7c+), ^[232] by Alex Honnold; took 3 hours, 56 minutes. ^{[136] [233] [234]}

7b+  (5.12c):

The famous "fish" feature on The Fish Route  [ de ], Marmolada

• The Fish Route  [ de ] (850-meters, 37-pitches) – Marmolada, Dolomites (Italy) – April 2007 – First-ever big wall free solo at 7b+  (5.12c), by Hansjorg Auer; took 2 hours, 55 minutes. ^{[136] [235]}
• The Moonlight Buttress (364-meters, 10-pitches) – Zion National Park (USA) – 1 April 2008 – Likely the second-ever big wall free solo at 7b+  (5.12c), by Alex Honnold; took 83 minutes. ^{[136] [236]}

7b  (5.12b):

• Romantic Warrior (305-meters, 9-pitches) – Needles, California (USA) – 2005 – Climbed on sight. First-ever big wall free solo at 7b  (5.12b), by Michael Reardon; ^{[237] [136]} . ^[238]

7a+  (5.12a):

• Brandler-Hasse Direttissima (580-meters, 17-pitches) – Cima Grande, Dolomites (Italy) – 2002 – First-ever big wall free solo at 7a+  (5.12a), by Alexander Huber. ^[239]

6c+  (5.11b/c):

• Naked Edge (210-meters, 7-pitches) – Eldorado Canyon State Park (USA) – 1978 – First-ever multi-pitch free solo at 5.11b by Jim Collins. ^{[221] [136] [240]}
• Nabisco Wall (via Butterballs) (110-meters, 3-pitches) – Yosemite Valley, (USA) – 1979 – First-ever multi-pitch free solo at 5.11c  (6c+), by John Bachar. ^[136]
• Astroman (300-meters, 12-pitches) – Yosemite Valley, (USA) – 1987 – First-ever Big Wall free solo at 5.11c by Peter Croft. ^[136]

6b+  (5.10d/11a):

• The Boldest (75-meters, 2-pitches) – Clogwyn (WAL) – 1969 – Multi-pitch free solo at E4 5c by Alan Rouse. ^[67]
• Pipeline (140-meters, 4-pitches) – Squamish BC (CAN) – 1979 – Onsight First Free Ascent at 5.10d by Greg Cameron. ^[136]
• Scenic Cruise (600-meters, 14-pitches) – Black Canyon, CO – (US) – 1979 – Big wall free solo at 5.10d, four of the pitches soloed on sight, by Earl Wiggins. ^[136]

6b  (5.10c):

• Vector (90-meters, 4-pitches) – Tremadog (UK) – 1969 – Multi-pitch free solo at E2 5c by Alan McHardy. ^[241]
• Sooberb (70-meters, 3-pitches) – Eldorado Canyon CO (US) – 1972 – Onsight First Free Ascent at 5.10c by Jim Erickson. ^{[57] [240]}

6a+  (5.10b):

• Solda-Conforto (650-meters, 18-pitches) – Marmolada, Dolomites, (ITA) – 1953 – Big Wall free solo by Cesare Maestri. ^[230]
• Steck-Salathe (500-meters, 14-pitches) – Yosemite Valley, CA, (USA) – May 1973 – Onsight Big Wall free solo in two and a half hours by Henry Barber. ^{[136] [217]}

6a  (5.10a):

• Cassin Route (800-meters, 21-pitches) – Piz Badile, Bregaglia, (SUI) – 1952 – Onsight Big Wall free solo, in four and a half hours, by Hermann Buhl. ^{[230] [219]}

5c  (5.9):

• Solleder Route (1,100-meters, 44-pitches) – Civetta, Dolomites, (ITA) – 1952 – Big Wall free solo by Cesare Maestri. ^[230]

5b  (5.8):

• Dülferriss (250-meters, 6-pitches) – Fleischbank, Wilder Kaiser, (AUT) – 1913 – Onsight multi-pitch first ascent by Hans Dülfer. ^[230]

5a  (5.7):

• Piaz Route (240-meters, 6-pitches) – Punta Emma, Cima Catinaccio, Dolomites, (ITA) – 1901 – Onsight multi-pitch first ascent by Tita Piaz. ^[230]
• Via Preuss (110-meters, 5-pitches) – Campanile Basso, Dolomites, (ITA) – 1911 – Onsight multi-pitch first ascent by Paul Preuss. ^[230]

See also

• Climbing portal

• History of rock climbing
• Notable ascents and grade milestones in deep-water soloing
• Hardest routes in traditional climbing
• Evolution of grade milestones in dry-tooling
• Evolution of grade milestones in mixed climbing
• Evolution of grade milestones in ice climbing

Notes

1. Excluded from 9c: Alex Megos's Bibliographie (2020) is excluded post its 2021 downgrade by Stefano Ghisolfi (that Megos agreed with), and Sean Bailey's (2020) further confirmation that it is at 9b+ (it ranks as the fifth-ever 9b+ in history). ^{[3] [4]}
2. Excluded from 9b+: Bernabè Fernandez  [ es ]'s Chilam Balam  [ fr ] (2003), was an unconfirmed and disputed first ascent that Fernandez proposed at 9b+  (5.15c) (the world's first-ever 9b+), which Adam Ondra regraded to a "low end" 5.15b  (9b) in 2008, and which was further downgraded by later repeaters to a consensus of "hard 9a+ or 9a+/b". ^[12]
3. Excluded from 9b: Dani Andrada  [ fr ]'s Ali Hulk Sit Start Extension (2007) is excluded post its 2021 downgrade to 9a+/b by Alex Garriga, ^{[22] [23] [24]} and further downgraded to 9a by Dani Moreno in 2023. ^[25]
4. Excluded from 9b: Dani Andrada  [ fr ]'s Delincuente Natural (2008) is excluded post its 2021 downgrade to 9a by Jonathan Flor, who made the first repeat. ^[26]
5. Excluded from 9b: Fred Rouhling's Akira (1995) is excluded post its 2020 downgrade to 9a by Seb Bouin and Lucien Martinez. ^[27]
6. Not included in 9b: Tommy Caldwell's Flex Luthor (2003) is not included as Matty Hong's 2021 upgrade to 9b included the breaking of over a dozen handholds and twenty footholds, so much so that Hong could not opine on whether it was the same route Caldwell climbed, and Caldwell himself intervened to say that it was not as hard as Jumbo Love. ^{[28] [29]} In November 2022, Jonathan Siegrist made the fourth ascent and downgraded it to 9a+  (5.15a) ^[30]
7. Excluded from 9a+: Alexander Huber's Weiße Rose (1994) was graded 8c+ but Adam Ondra's 2008 repeat estimated it at 9a (and potentially 9a+, which would have made it the world first-ever 9a+), however, Jakob Schubert's 2020 repeat confirmed it 9a. ^[35]
8. Excluded from 9a+: Bernabè Fernandez  [ es ]'s Orujo (1998), was an unconfirmed and disputed ascent that Fernandez proposed at 9a+  (5.15a) (the world's first-ever 9a+ at the time), which has not been repeated due to concerns over manufacturing of holds. ^{[36] [37]}
9. Not included in 8c:Jerry Moffatt's Stone Love (1988), is listed in some climbing databases as the world's second-ever 8c, ^[41] however, its consensus grade is considered at 8b+. ^[46]
10. Not included in 8b+: Wolfgang Güllich's Dead Line (1986) is listed in some climbing databases as the world's third-ever 8b+, ^[41] however, its consensus grade is now closer to 8b. ^[47]
11. Not included in 8b: Martin Scheel  [ de ]'s Vuelo a Ciegas Direct (trans: Blind Fight) which was Spain's first 8b and sometimes mistaken as being climbed in 1984, ^[13] whereas Scheel did the first ascent in 1986. ^[49]
12. Not included in 8a+: Dave Cuthbertson's traditional climb Requiem (1983) is listed in some climbing databases as the world's second-ever 8a+, ^[41] however, its consensus grade is now closer to 8a (or E8 6b in the English traditional grading system). ^[51]
13. Not included in 8a: Peter Cleveland's Phlogiston (1977) at Devil's Lake is sometimes proposed as a first 8a  (5.13b), ^[13] but it was clarified as a top rope. ^[52]
14. Excluded from 9b: Laura Rogora's 2020 ascent of Dani Andrada  [ fr ]'s Ali Hulk Sit Start Extension (2007), ^[73] is excluded post its 2021 downgrade from 9b to 9a+/b by Alex Garriga. ^{[22] [23]}
15. Excluded from 9a: Sasha Digiulian's 2012 ascent of Era Vella, which was at the time considered the fourth-ever female ascent of a 9a. ^[89] Era Vella has since been downgraded to 8c+/9a in the main climbing databases. ^[90]
16. Not included in 9a: Alizée Dufraisse's 2012 ascent of La Reina Mora, which is sometimes considered as being 9a (thus the fourth-ever female 9a), but the climbing databases regard La Reina Mora as 8c+/9a. ^[91]
17. Excluded from 8c:Kajsa Rosén  [ cs ]'s onsight of T-1 Full Equip in March 2016 was considered a possible first female 8c onsght, ^[116] but the consensus grade was settled at 8b+ in 2021. ^{[117] [118]}
18. Not included in 8b+: Katie Brown's onsight of Omaha Beach in 1999 is sometimes mistakenly classed as an 8b+ onsight, ^[123] however, several holds had broken from the sandstone route since Brown's onsight, and the original route was not considered an 8b+  (5.14a)-graded route. ^{[124] [125]}
19. Not included in 8b+:Charlotte Durif  [ fr ] lists a number of 8b+ onsights in her personal database: Spider cochon (2008), Ultime démence (2009), Basse température (2009) and Snails paradise (July 2010), that would rank as the earliest 8b+ female onsights, ^[123] however, they have not been verified in climbing media (unlike Les Rois du Pétrole in 2010). ^[126]
20. Excluded from V17: Charles Albert's No Kpote Only (2019) was proposed at V17 but was downgraded by the first and second repeaters, Ryohei Kameyama (to V16 in 2020) and Nicolas Pelorson respectively (to V15 in 2020). ^[140]
21. Not included in V17: Simon Lorenzi's Soudain Seul (2021), proposed at V17 but repeated by Nicolas Pelorson (2021) who felt it was V16 saying "V17 is impossible for Soudain Seul because you do a V12 before a V14/15"; a second repeat by Camille Coudert (2022) upheld the V17 grade, however, it remains listed as V16 or V16/V17 in the main climbing databases (e.g thecrag). ^{[141] [142]}
22. Excluded from 8C+: Dai Koyamada's The Wheel of Life (2004), once considered the first 8C+ but since downgraded to 8C  (V15); it links several boulder problems over 68 moves and is now regarded as more a sport climbing route, with grade of 9a  (5.14d). ^[152]
23. Not included in V15: Markus Bock  [ de ]'s Gossip (April 2002) was proposed by Bock at 8B+  (V14) but later revised upwards by Bock to 8C  (V15), ^[164] however, a first repeat by John Gaskins disputed the grade and felt it was closer to 8B+  (V14); led to a very acrimonious public exchange with Bock. ^{[165] [166] [167]}
24. Not included in V15: Klem Loskot's Emotional Landscapes SS (November 2002), was originally proposed by Loskot at 8B+  (V14), and Martin Moser's 2004 repeat was silent on the grade (he used different beta), however, Nalle Hukkataival's second repeat in 2014 (who also used different beta) suggested a possible 8C  (V15), one of the world's first; ^[168] currently listed at 8B+/C (note the standing start is 8A+). ^[169]
25. Excluded from V14: Werner Thom's Zerberus (1997), was downgraded to V13  (8B) on its repeat by Thomas Lindinger in 2017. ^[172]
26. Excluded from V12: Jacky Godoffe  [ it ]'s Partenaire Particulier (1987), which was considered at 8A+  (V12), ^[13] but has since been regraded to 8A  (V11) in the main climbing databases.
27. Not included in V13: Therese Johansen's ascent of Bernd Zangerl  [ fr ]'s Propaganda (May 2011) would have ranked as the third-ever female ascent of a V13  (8B), but she downgraded the boulder herself to hard V12 or maybe V13 after climbing it. ^[190]

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Further reading

• American online climbing website, Planet Mountain, on notable climbs, redpoints, onsight, free sole and male-female (1918–2012): Oviglia, Maurizio (23 December 2012). "The evolution of free climbing". PlanetMountain.com. Retrieved 4 January 2022.
• Czech climbing magazine, eMontana, on men's redpointing milestones from 6a to 9c: Pohorsky, Matej (2018). "Climbing Milestones. Explore the Revolutionary Routes from 6a to 9c". eMontana (Czech). Retrieved 31 December 2021.

External links

• Maurizio Oviglia (December 21, 2012). "The evolution of free climbing". Planet Mountain.
• "Hardest boulder problems". 99boulders. October 26, 2016. Retrieved August 1, 2017.