List of grade milestones in rock climbing

Last updated
Wolfgang Gullich set new "hardest-ever routes" multiple times Bild auf dem Gedenkstein fuer Guellich (retuschiert).jpg
Wolfgang Güllich set new "hardest-ever routes" multiple times

In rock-climbing, a first free ascent (FFA) is the first redpoint, onsight or flash of a single-pitch, multi-pitch (or big wall), or boulder climbing route that did not involve using aid equipment to help progression or resting; the ascent must therefore be performed in either a sport, a traditional, or a free solo manner. First-free-ascents that set new grade milestones are important events in rock climbing history, and are listed below. While sport climbing has dominated absolute-grade milestones since the mid-1980s (i.e. are now the highest grades), milestones for modern traditional climbing, free solo climbing, onsighted, and flashed ascents, are also listed.

Contents

A route's grade is provisional until enough climbers have repeated the route to have a "consensus". At the highest grades, this can take years as few climbers are capable of repeating these routes. For example, in 2001, Realization was considered the world's first 9a+  (5.15a), however, the first repeat of the 1996 route Open Air  [ de ], which only happened in 2008, suggested that it was possibly the first 9a+  (5.15a). Open Air has had no further repeats, and has had holds broken since 1996, whereas Realization has had many ascents and is thus a "consensus" 9a+. Therefore, where known, the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th ranked candidates are also chronicled. [1] [2]

As of October 2024, the hardest single-pitch redpoint was at the grade of 9c  (5.15d) for men and 9b  (5.15b) for women. The hardest onsight was at the grade of 9a  (5.14d) for men and 8c  (5.14b) for women. The hardest boulder solved was at the boulder grade of V17  (9A) for men and V15/V16 (8C/8C+)   for women. The hardest multi-pitch (or big wall) redpoint was at the grade of 9a+  (5.15a). The hardest single-pitch free solo was at the grade of 8c  (5.14b), and the hardest multi-pitch (or big wall) free solo was at 7c+  (5.13a).

Single-pitch routes

Redpointed by men

9c  (5.15d): [a]

Adam Ondra on Silence Adam Ondra climbing Silence, 9c by PAVEL BLAZEK 1-cropped.jpg
Adam Ondra on Silence
  • SilenceFlatanger Municipality (NOR) – September 3, 2017 – First ascent by Adam Ondra, who described it as "much harder than anything else" he had previously done, and cautiously suggested the 9c rating for the 45 m route. [5] [6] Remains unrepeated (August 2024).
  • DNA  [ de ]Verdon Gorge (FRA) – April 29, 2022 – First ascent by Sébastien Bouin who proposed the grade of 9c, saying "Comparing this route to Bibliographie , Move, Beyond [Integral], it seems a step ahead", and "To choose 9c is to take a risk". Remains unrepeated (August 2024). [7]
  • B.I.G. (also Project Big) – Flatanger Municipality (NOR) – September 20, 2023 – First ascent by Jakob Schubert, who worked on the route with Adam Ondra, and after consulting with Ondra, proposed 9c on the basis it was "definitely harder" than Perfecto Mundo, a "benchmark" 9b+. Remains unrepeated (August 2024). [8]

9b+  (5.15c): [b]

9b  (5.15b): [c] [d] [e] [f]

9a+  (5.15a): [g] [h]

9a  (5.14d):

Alex Megos on Action Directe Action Directe 11 (9a), Foto Jorgos Megos.JPG
Alex Megos on Action Directe

8c+  (5.14c):

8c  (5.14b): [i]

8b+  (5.14a): [j]

Climber nearing the top of Punks in the Gym 32 8b+ (5.14a) Punks Wall (29529972985).jpg
Climber nearing the top of Punks in the Gym 32 8b+  (5.14a)

8b  (5.13d): [k]

8a+  (5.13c) [l]

Pre-sport era

Many of the notable first ascents that achieved a new highest grade prior to The Face are traditional climbing routes:

8a  (5.13b) [m]

  • Grand Illusion – Sugar Loaf, Lake Tahoe, CA (US) – 1979 – First-ever consensus 8a  (5.13b) in history, by Tony Yaniro. [10] [37]
  • Cosmic Debris – Yosemite Valley, CA (US) – May, 1980 – Early 8a led by Bill Price. [49]
  • Sphinx Crack – South Platte, CO (US) – April, 1981 – Early 8a led by Steve Hong. [50]
  • 13 Boulevard du Vol – Rochers de Freyr, (BEL) – 1981 – Early consensus 8a  (5.13b), by Arnould t'Kint. [10] [37]
  • Grand Illusion – Sugar Loaf, Lake Tahoe, CA (US) – 1982 – Early consensus 8a  (5.13b), by Wolfgang Güllich. [37]
  • La CrépinetteLes Eaux-Claires (FRA) – 1983 – Early consensus 8a  (5.13b) in history, by Fabrice Guillot (and first 8a in France). [37] [51]

7c+  (5.13a)

  • The PhoenixYosemite, CA (US) – 1977 – Considered the first-ever consensus 7c+  (5.13a) in history, by Ray Jardine (used his new cams). [52]
  • Le Toit – Baou de Quatre Ouro (FRA) – 1981 – Second-ever consensus 7c+  (5.13a) in history, by Patrick Edlinger. [37]
  • Le HaineLa Turbie (FRA) – March, 1981 – Third-ever consensus 7c+  (5.13a) in history, by Patrick Berhault. [37]
  • Chimpanzodrome – Le Saussois (FRA) – April, 1981 – Fourth-ever consensus 7c+  (5.13a) in history, by Jean-Pierre Bouvier. [37]

7c  (5.12d)

  • Psycho RoofEldorado, CO (US) – 1975 – Estimated as the first-ever 7c  (5.12d) in history, by Steve Wunsch; only one ascent, due to large broken flake, and was possibly harder than 7c in 1975. [53] [54]
  • The Pirate – Suicide Rock, CA – (US) – 1978 – Early 7c (5.12d) by Tony Yaniro. [55]
  • Iron CrossShawangunks, NY – (US) – 1978 – Early 7c (5.12d) by John Bragg. [56] [57]
  • Genesis – Eldorado, CO – (US) – 1979 – Early 7c (5.12d) by Jim Collins. [58] [50]
  • NymphodalleLes Calanques (FRA) – 1979 – Sometimes considered first-ever consensus 7c  (5.12d) in history, by Patrick Edlinger. [37] [40]
  • EquinoxJoshua Tree (US) – 1980 – Considered one of the earliest consensus 7c  (5.12d) climbs in history, by Tony Yaniro. [37]
  • Chasin' the traneFrankenjura (GER) – 1980 – Considered one of the earliest consensus 7c  (5.12d) climbs in history, by John Bachar. [37]

7b+  (5.12c)

7b  (5.12b)

7a+  (5.12a)

Thimble, the 1960s The Thimble.jpg
Thimble, the 1960s
  • ThimbleNeedles, SD, (US) – 1961 – First-ever 7a+  (5.12a) in history, by John Gill. Free soloed. [10]
  • Macabre Roof – Ogden, Utah, (US) – 1967 – First-ever roped 7a+ (5.12a) in history, flashed by Greg Lowe. [62] [63]
  • Orchrist – Almscliff, (ENG) – July 1973 – Early 7a+ (5.12a) as was graded E5 6b, by Hank Pasquill. [64]
  • The ThroneShawangunks, NY (US) – 1973 – Very early 7a+  (5.12a) climb, led by John Stannard. [56]
  • Footless Crow – Goat Crag, Borrowdale, (ENG) – April 19, 1974 – Early 7a+ (5.12a) as was graded E5 6b, by Pete Livesey. [64]

7a  (5.11d)

Redpointed by women

9b  (5.15b): [n]

9a+  (5.15a):

9a/9a+  :

9a  (5.14d): [o] [p]

8c+  (5.14c):

  • Honky Tonk Mix – Onate (ESP) – June, 2000 – First-ever female ascent of an 8c+ route, by Josune Bereziartu. [10] [87]
  • Noia – Andonno (ITA) – October, 2001 – Second-ever female ascent of an 8c+ route, by Josune Bereziartu. [10]
  • Na Nai – Baltzola (ESP) – June 18, 2003 – Third-ever female ascent of an 8c+ route, by Josune Bereziartu. [69]
  • Powerade – Vadiello (ESP) – May 21, 2007 – Fourth-ever female ascent of an 8c+ route, by Josune Bereziartu. [69]

8c  (5.14b):

8b+  (5.14a):

8b  (5.13d):

8a+  (5.13c):

8a  (5.13b):

7c+/8a (5.13a/b)  :

Pre-sport era

Many of the notable first female ascents that achieved a new highest grade pre Fleur de Rocaille, are traditional climbing routes:

7c+  (5.13a):

7c  (5.12d):

7b+  (5.12c):

7b  (5.12b):

7a  (5.11d):

6b+  (5.10d/11a):

6a  (5.10a):

5a  (5.7):



Onsighted / Flashed by men

With route beta on the internet, the distinction between an onsight (no prior beta) and a flash (had prior beta) is less relevant; it is recorded where noted.

9a+  (5.15a):

  • Super Crackinette – Saint Léger (FRA) – 10 February 2018 – First-ever 9a+ flash (not onsight) in history, by Adam Ondra. [95]

9a  (5.14d):

  • Southern Smoke Direct – Red River Gorge (USA) – 29 October 2012 – First-ever 9a flash (not onsight), by Adam Ondra. [96] [97]
  • Estado Critico – Siurana (ESP) – 24 March 2013 – First-ever 9a onsight, by Alex Megos. [98]
  • Cabane au Canada – Rawyl (SUI) – 9 July 2013 – Second-ever 9a onsight, by Adam Ondra. [99]
  • Il Domani – Baltzola (ESP) – 3 May 2014 – Third-ever 9a onsight, by Adam Ondra. [100]
  • Water World – Pajkova Streha (SLO) – November 2022 – Fourth-ever 9a onsight, by Adam Ondra. [101]

8c+  (5.14c):

8c  (5.14b):

8b+  (5.14a):

8b  (5.13d):

  • Liaisons Dangereuses – Les Calanques (Les Goudes), (FRA) – 1993 – First-ever 8b onsight, by Elie Chevieux  [ de ] [10]
  • Public Enemy – Cuenca, (ESP) – 1993 – Originally considered the first 8a+/8b onsight, by Stefan Glowacz, but consensus grade is now 8b. [103]

8a+  (5.13c):

(unknown)

8a  (5.13b):

7c+  (5.13a):

7c  (5.12d):

7b+  (5.12c):

Onsighted / Flashed by women

With route beta on the internet, the distinction between an onsight (no prior beta) and a flash (had prior beta) is less relevant; it is recorded where noted.

8c  (5.14b): [q]

8b+  (5.14a): [r] [s]

8b  (5.13d):

8a+  (5.13c):

8a  (5.13b):

7b  (5.12b):

  • TrojanMount Arapiles, Victoria (AUS) – 1981 – Onsight lead at grade 25 (5.12b) by Louise Shepherd. [90]

7a+  (5.12a):

6c+  (5.11b/c):

  • KloeberdanzEldorado Canyon, CO (US) – 1977 – Onsight lead at 5.11c by Coral Bowman. [124]
  • VulcanTremadog, (WAL) – 1980 – Onsight lead at E4 6a by Jill Lawrence. [94]

6c  (5.11a/b):

  • Wide Country (first pitch) – Eldorado Canyon CO (US) – June 1973 – Early female onsight at 5.11a by Diana Hunter. [125] [54] [124] [50]
  • ValhallaSuicide Rock CA (US) – 1976 – Early female onsight at 5.11a by Maria Cranor. [126]
  • Naked Edge (first pitch) – Eldorado Canyon CO (US) – October 1976 – Onsight lead at 5.11a by Beth Bennett. [124]


Free-solo by men

Important free-solos, all were rehearsed except as noted; does not include "highball" boulder ascents as the climbers here did not use padding or spotters. [127]

8c  (5.14b):

  • Panem et Circenses – Length: 15 metres (49 ft)Arco (IT) – March 2021 – First-ever 8c free solo, by Alfredo Webber, aged 52. [128]

8b+  (5.14a):

8b  (5.13d):

8a+  (5.13c):

8a  (5.13b):

7c  (5.12d)

7b  (5.12b)

7a+  (5.12a)

  • Thimble – Length: 9 meters – Needles, SD, (US) – 1961 – First ascent and first-ever 7a+ free solo in history (and first-ever redpoint, see above), flashed by John Gill. [10] [132]

7a  (5.11d):

  • Spider Line – Length: 16 meters – Joshua Tree National Park, CA, (US) – February 1978 – First lead (free solo) and first free solo at 5.11d by John Yablonski. [133] [134]

6c+  (5.11b/c):

  • Wall of Horrors – Length: 18 meters – Almscliff, (ENG) – 1961 – First lead (free solo) and first free solo at E3 6a by Allan Austin. [135]
  • Slip N Slide – Length: 8 meters – Peak District, (ENG) – 1976 – First lead (free solo) and first free solo at E6 6a by Ron Fawcett. [136]

6c  (5.11a/b):

  • Western Front – Length: 13 meters – Almscliff, (ENG) – 1958 – First ascent, unrehearsed, now rated E3 5c, by Allan Austin. [64] [135]

6b+  (5.10d/11a):

  • Left Wall – Length: 38 meters – Llanberis Pass, (ENG) – 1964 – First free ascent (free solo) rated E2 5c, by Rowland Edwards. [137]

6a+  (5.10b):

  • Sometime Crack – Length: 15 meters – Devil's Lake, WI, (US) – 1959 – Onsight first ascent by John Gill. [50]

6a  (5.10a):

  • Cave Arete Indirect – Length: 18 meters – Laddow Rocks, (ENG) – 1916 – Free solo first ascent by Ivar Berg. [138]

Boulder problems

Solved by men

9A  (V17): [t] [u]

  • Alphane Chironico (SUI) – April 6, 2022 – First ascent by Shawn Raboutou, [141] [147] and first repeat by Aidan Roberts (October 2022); Roberts was silent on the grade having never climbed at V17, and having previously failed on Burden of Dreams. [148] William Bosi made a second repeat in November 2022, and after feeling that it was less of a challenge than his FA of Honey Badger 8C+, later felt it was still at 9A  (V17). [149]

8C+  (V16): [v]

Christian Core on Gioia [fr] Christian Core on Gioia.jpg
Christian Core on Gioia  [ fr ]
  • Gioia  [ fr ]Varazze (ITA) – 2008 – Considered the first-ever 8C+  (V16), by Christian Core. [152] First repeat in 2011 by Adam Ondra who proposed an 8C+ grade, describing the boulder as one of the hardest in the world, together with Terranova (see below). [153] Third ascent by Nalle Hukkataival in 2014, and Niccolo Ceria in 2020, who were silent on grade. [154] [155] In 2015, it was discovered that new holds were chipped on the route, which Core tried to fix but not with complete success, leaving one new crimp that Core felt does lower the grade. [152] In 2021, a fifth repeat by Elias Lagnemma suggested a slightly lower grade of 8C/+ (using a kneepad). [142] [156]

8C  (V15): [w] [x]

8B+  (V14): [y]

Dreamtime in Switzerland Dreamtime Boulder in Cresciano - line.jpg
Dreamtime in Switzerland

8B  (V13):

8A+  (V12): [z]

8A  (V11):

7C+  (V10):

7C  (V9):

  • Red Cross Overhang, or Gill ProblemTeton Range (US) – 1959 – Considered one of the first-ever ascents of a 7C  (V9), by John Gill. [10] [169]
  • Double Clutch – Flagstaff Mountain, Boulder, CO (US) – 1972 – Very early 7c (V8-V9) by Bob Williams. [175]
  • Speed of Light Dyno – Black Mountains (US) – 1979 – Considered an important early ascent of a 7C  (V9), by John Long. [10]
  • L'Abbé RésinaFontainebleau, (FRA) – 1983 – Considered an important early ascent of a 7C  (V9), by Pierre Richard. [169]
Climber on Midnight Lightning Midnight Lightning yosemite.jpg
Climber on Midnight Lightning

7B+  (V8):

7B  (V8):

7A  (V6):

6A  (V3):

Solved by women

8C/8C+ (V15/16)  :

8C  (V15):

8B+  (V14):

8B  (V13): [aa]

8A+  (V12):

8A  (V11):

7C+/8A  :

7C+  (V10):

7C  (V9):

7B+  (V8):

Multi-pitch routes

Given the smaller number of entries for multi-pitch and big wall routes, the sections below combine milestones for overall and female ascents. In some cases (e.g. the Salathé Wall and Dawn Wall), the first free ascent was by a climbing pair alternating leads, and in such instances, the first individual to free climb all the pitches is also recorded.

Redpointed

9a+  (5.15a):

9a  (5.14d):

  • Wu Wei (180-metres, 5-pitches) – Picco delle Aquile, Dolomites (ITA) – 16 August 2023 – Second-ever multi-pitch redpoint at 9a  (5.14d), by Alessandro Zeni. [194] [198]

8c+  (5.14c):

  • Nirwana (200-metres, 5-pitches) – Sonnwendwand, (AUT) – 9 September 2012 – Second-ever multi-pitch redpoint at at 8c+  (5.14c), by Alexander Huber. [194] [200] [201]

8c  (5.14b):

Climbers on the roof of Pan Aroma (and Bellavista) 8c (5.14b) on the Cima Ovest in the Dolomites. CimaOvest-PanAroma.JPG
Climbers on the roof of Pan Aroma (and Bellavista) 8c  (5.14b) on the Cima Ovest in the Dolomites.
  • Bellavista  [ it ] (500-metres, 10-pitches) – Cima Ovest, Dolomites (ITA) – 18 July 2001 – First-ever big wall redpoint at 8c  (5.14b), by Alexander Huber; [194] [202] repeating the route in 2007 (to create Pan Aroma, also 8c), Huber found some key holds were "treated" from a 2005 attempt, and the crux was heavily lined with pegs, which had softened the grade to 8b/8b+. [203] [204]

8b+  (5.14a):

  • The Nose (870-metres, 31-pitches) – El Capitan, Yosemite (USA) – 1993 – Second multi-pitch at 5.14a  (8b+), [194] by Lynn Hill (partnered by Brooke Sandahl); the big-wall free climb is considered as one of the most important ascents in rock climbing history, and also a major milestone in female rock climbing; in 1994, Hill repeated it in under 24 hours; took over a decade for the first clean repeat. [210]
  • After The Nose, the Alpine Trilogy  [ it ] were the next 8b+  (5.14a) graded multi-pitch routes to be fully freed: [194]

8a+  (5.13c):

8a  (5.13b):

7c+  (5.13a):

7b+  (5.12c):

  • Regular Northwest Face (690-meters, 24 pitches) – Half Dome, Yosemite (USA) – 1976 – First big wall free climb at 7b+ (5.12c) by Art Higbee and Jim Erickson. [215] [216] [213] 20 years later, a variation to the crux pitch was found to keep the entire route at 5.12a.
  • Hall of Mirrors (650-meters, 16 pitches) – Glacier Point, Yosemite (USA) –1980 – Second big wall free climb at 7b+ (5.12c) by Chris Cantwell, Scott Burk, Scott Cole. [217] [50] [213]
  • Amarcord (400-metres, 9-pitches) – 7th Kirlichspitze, Rätikon (SUI) – 1984 – Third big wall free climb at 7b+  (5.12c), by Martin Scheel  [ de ]. [209]

7b  (5.12b):

7a+  (5.12a):

  • Macabre Wall (180-meters, 5-pitches) – Ogden, UT (US) – 1967 – Multi-pitch free climb at 5.12a led by Greg Lowe. [62] [63]
  • Footless Crow (60-meters, 2-pitches) – Goat Crag, Lake District (UK) – April 1974 – Multi-pitch free climb at E5 6b by Pete Livesey, harder today due to large broken flake. [64]
  • Air Voyage (550-meters, 13-pitches) – Black Canyon National Park CO (US) – 1979 – Big Wall free climb at 5.12a by Leonard Coyne and Ken Sims. [217] [124]

7a  (5.11d):

6c+  (5.11b/c):

  • New Frontier (75-meters, 2-pitches) – Millbrook Shawangunks NY (US) – 1969 – Multi-pitch Free Ascent at 5.11b by Gary Brown and John Stannard. [220] [56]
  • Naked Edge (205-meters, 7-pitches) – Redgarden Wall Eldorado Canyon CO (US) – Oct 1971 – Multi-pitch Free Ascent at 5.11b by Jim Erickson and Duncan Ferguson. [124] [221]
  • Wide Country (120-meters, 4-pitches) – Bastille Eldorado Canyon CO (US) – June 1972 – First Free Ascent at 5.11b by Duncan Ferguson and Don Peterson. [221] [222]
  • Basket Case (255-meters, 7-pitches) – Basket Dome Yosemite CA (US) – June 1972 – Multi-pitch free climb at 5.11b by Mark Klemens, Jim Bridwell and Jim Donini. [50]

6c  (5.11a/b):

  • Athletes Feat (80-meters, 5-pitches) – Castle Rock, Boulder Canyon, Boulder CO (US) – 1964 – First Free Ascent by Royal Robbins and Pat Ament. [50] [124]
  • Country Club Crack (60-meters, 2-pitches) – Castle Rock, Boulder Canyon, Boulder CO (US) – 1967 – First Free Ascent led by Pat Ament; the first pitch is now 5.11c as holds have crumbled. [50] [124]
  • Swing Time (50-meters, 2-pitches) – Shawangunk Mountains NY (US) – 1968 – Multi-pitch First Free Ascent by John Stannard. [223] [56]

6b+  (5.10d/11a):

  • Talseite (40-meters, 3-pitches) – Schwager Schrammsteine Saxon Switzerland (DEU) – 1952 – Early multi-pitch free climb, even with shoulder stands is graded Sax VIIIc, by Harry Rost. [224]
  • Post Mortem (45-meters, 2-pitches) – Eagle Crag Borrowdale Lake District (UK) – 1956 – Early multi-pitch at E4 5c (5.11a) by Paul Ross and Peter Lockey. [225]

6b  (5.10c):

  • Solleder Route, Direct Finish (700-meters total, 19-pitches total) –Furchetta Dolomites (ITA) – 1932 – New five-pitch variation at UIAA Grade VII added to the route by Giovanni Vinatzer and Vincenzo Perista. [226] [227]
  • Rebitsch-Spiegl (300-meters, 8-pitches) – Fleischbank Wilde Kaiser (AUT) – 1946 – Multi-pitch free climb at UIAA Grade VII by Mathias Rebitsch and Sepp Spiegl. [227]
  • Nordverschneidung (800-meters, 20-pitches) – Lalidererspitze Karwendel (AUT) – 1947 – Big wall free climb at UIAA Grade VII by Mathias Rebitsch and Franz Lorenz. [227]

6a+  (5.10b):

  • Via Vinatzer (180-meters, 6-pitches) – Stevia, Val Gardena, Dolomites, (ITA) – 1933 – Multi-pitch at UIAA Grade VII- by Giovanni Vinatzer and Vincenzo Peristi. [228] [227] [226]
  • Via Solda (650-meters, 18-pitches) – Marmolada, Dolomites, (ITA) – August 1936 – Big wall free climb at UIAA Grade VII- by Gino Solda and Umberto Conforto. [228]
  • Via Vinatzer-Castiglioni (900-meters, 29-pitches) – Marmolada, Dolomites, (ITA) – Sept 1936 – Big wall free climb at UIAA Grade VII- by Giovanni Vinatzer and Ettore Castiglioni. [228] [226]

6a  (5.10a):

  • Micheluzzi Route (720-meters, 19-pitches) – Marmolada, Dolomites, (ITA) –1929 – Big wall free climb at UIAA Grade VI+ by Luigi Micheluzzi, Roberto Perathoner, Demitrio Christomannos. [217]
  • Spigolo Giallo (410-meters, 14-pitches) – Tre Cima, Dolomites, (ITA) – 1933 – Big wall free climb at UIAA Grade VI+ by Emilio Comici, Mary Varale, and Renatto Zanutti. [227]

5c  (5.9):

  • Ha-He Verschneidung (360-meters, 12-pitches) – Dreizinkenspitze, Karwendel (AUT) – August 1921 – Big wall free climb at UIAA Grade VI by Otto Herzog and Gustav Haber. [229]
  • North Face (600-meters, 20-pitches) – Furchetta, Dolomites, (ITA) – August 1, 1925 – Big wall free climb at UIAA Grade VI by Emil Solleder and Fritz Wiessner. [229]
  • Solleder Route (1,100-meters, 44-pitches) Monte Civetta, Dolomites, (ITA) – August 4, 1925 – Big wall free climb at UIAA Grade VI by Emil Solleder and Gustl Lettenbauer. [229]

Free-soloed

All of these climbs were rehearsed except as noted below.

7c+  (5.13a):

Alex Honnold's 2017 free solo of Freerider (5.13a, 7c+), El Capitan Alex Honnold El Capitan Free Solo 1.png
Alex Honnold's 2017 free solo of Freerider (5.13a, 7c+), El Capitan

7b+  (5.12c):

The famous "fish" feature on The Fish Route [de], Marmolada Marmolada d'Ombretta - South Face - fish-shaped niche.jpg
The famous "fish" feature on The Fish Route  [ de ], Marmolada

7b  (5.12b):

7a+  (5.12a):

6c+  (5.11b/c):

6b+  (5.10d/11a):

  • The Boldest (75-meters, 2-pitches) – Clogwyn (WAL) – 1969 – Multi-pitch free solo at E4 5c by Alan Rouse. [64]
  • Pipeline (140-meters, 4-pitches) – Squamish BC (CAN) – 1979 – Onsight First Free Ascent at 5.10d by Greg Cameron. [134]
  • Scenic Cruise (600-meters, 14-pitches) – Black Canyon, CO – (US) – 1979 – Big wall free solo at 5.10d, four of the pitches soloed on sight, by Earl Wiggins. [134]

6b  (5.10c):

  • Vector (90-meters, 4-pitches) – Tremadog (UK) – 1969 – Multi-pitch free solo at E2 5c by Alan McHardy. [137]
  • Sooberb (70-meters, 3-pitches) – Eldorado Canyon CO (US) – 1972 – Onsight First Free Ascent at 5.10c by Jim Erickson. [54] [238]

6a+  (5.10b):

6a  (5.10a):

  • Cassin Route (800-meters, 21-pitches) – Piz Badile, Bregaglia, (SUI) – 1952 – Onsight Big Wall free solo, in four and a half hours, by Hermann Buhl. [228] [217]

5c  (5.9):

5b  (5.8):

5a  (5.7):

  • Piaz Route (240-meters, 6-pitches) – Punta Emma, Cima Catinaccio, Dolomites, (ITA) – 1901 – Onsight multi-pitch first ascent by Tita Piaz. [228]
  • Via Preuss (110-meters, 5-pitches) – Campanile Basso, Dolomites, (ITA) – 1911 – Onsight multi-pitch first ascent by Paul Preuss. [228]


See also

Notes

  1. Excluded from 9c: Alex Megos's Bibliographie (2020) is excluded post its 2021 downgrade by Stefano Ghisolfi (that Megos agreed with), and Sean Bailey's (2020) further confirmation that it is at 9b+ (it ranks as the fifth-ever 9b+ in history). [3] [4]
  2. Excluded from 9b+: Bernabè Fernandez  [ es ]'s Chilam Balam  [ fr ] (2003), was an unconfirmed and disputed first ascent that Fernandez proposed at 9b+  (5.15c) (the world's first-ever 9b+), which Adam Ondra regraded to a "low end" 5.15b  (9b) in 2008, and which was further downgraded by later repeaters to a consensus of "hard 9a+ or 9a+/b". [9]
  3. Excluded from 9b: Dani Andrada  [ fr ]'s Ali Hulk Sit Start Extension (2007) is excluded post its 2021 downgrade to 9a+/b by Alex Garriga, [18] [19] [20] and further downgraded to 9a by Dani Moreno in 2023. [21]
  4. Excluded from 9b: Dani Andrada  [ fr ]'s Delincuente Natural (2008) is excluded post its 2021 downgrade to 9a by Jonathan Flor, who made the first repeat. [22]
  5. Excluded from 9b: Fred Rouhling's Akira (1995) is excluded post its 2020 downgrade to 9a by Seb Bouin and Lucien Martinez. [23]
  6. Not included in 9b: Tommy Caldwell's Flex Luthor (2003) is not included as Matty Hong's 2021 upgrade to 9b included the breaking of over a dozen handholds and twenty footholds, so much so that Hong could not opine on whether it was the same route Caldwell climbed, and Caldwell himself intervened to say that it was not as hard as Jumbo Love. [24] [25] In November 2022, Jonathan Siegrist made the fourth ascent and downgraded it to 9a+  (5.15a) [26]
  7. Excluded from 9a+: Alexander Huber's Weiße Rose (1994) was graded 8c+ but Adam Ondra's 2008 repeat estimated it at 9a (and potentially 9a+, which would have made it the world first-ever 9a+), however, Jakob Schubert's 2020 repeat confirmed it 9a. [31]
  8. Excluded from 9a+: Bernabè Fernandez  [ es ]'s Orujo (1998), was an unconfirmed and disputed ascent that Fernandez proposed at 9a+  (5.15a) (the world's first-ever 9a+ at the time), which has not been repeated due to concerns over manufacturing of holds. [32] [33]
  9. Not included in 8c:Jerry Moffatt's Stone Love (1988), is listed in some climbing databases as the world's second-ever 8c, [37] however, its consensus grade is considered at 8b+. [42]
  10. Not included in 8b+: Wolfgang Güllich's Dead Line (1986) is listed in some climbing databases as the world's third-ever 8b+, [37] however, its consensus grade is now closer to 8b. [43]
  11. Not included in 8b: Martin Scheel  [ de ]'s Vuelo a Ciegas Direct (trans: Blind Fight) which was Spain's first 8b and sometimes mistaken as being climbed in 1984, [10] whereas Scheel did the first ascent in 1986. [45]
  12. Not included in 8a+: Dave Cuthbertson's traditional climb Requiem (1983) is listed in some climbing databases as the world's second-ever 8a+, [37] however, its consensus grade is now closer to 8a (or E8 6b in the English traditional grading system). [47]
  13. Not included in 8a: Peter Cleveland's Phlogiston (1977) at Devil's Lake is sometimes proposed as a first 8a  (5.13b), [10] but it was clarified as a top rope. [48]
  14. Excluded from 9b: Laura Rogora's 2020 ascent of Dani Andrada  [ fr ]'s Ali Hulk Sit Start Extension (2007), [66] is excluded post its 2021 downgrade from 9b to 9a+/b by Alex Garriga. [18] [19]
  15. Excluded from 9a: Sasha Digiulian's 2012 ascent of Era Vella, which was at the time considered the fourth-ever female ascent of a 9a. [81] Era Vella has since been downgraded to 8c+/9a in the main climbing databases. [82]
  16. Not included in 9a: Alizée Dufraisse's 2012 ascent of La Reina Mora, which is sometimes considered as being 9a (thus the fourth-ever female 9a), but the climbing databases regard La Reina Mora as 8c+/9a. [83]
  17. Excluded from 8c:Kajsa Rosén  [ cs ]'s onsight of T-1 Full Equip in March 2016 was considered a possible first female 8c onsght, [111] but the consensus grade was settled at 8b+ in 2021. [112] [113]
  18. Not included in 8b+: Katie Brown's onsight of Omaha Beach in 1999 is sometimes mistakenly classed as an 8b+ onsight, [118] however, several holds had broken from the sandstone route since Brown's onsight, and the original route was not considered an 8b+  (5.14a)-graded route. [119] [120]
  19. Not included in 8b+:Charlotte Durif  [ fr ] lists a number of 8b+ onsights in her personal database: Spider cochon (2008), Ultime démence (2009), Basse température (2009) and Snails paradise (July 2010), that would rank as the earliest 8b+ female onsights, [118] however, they have not been verified in climbing media (unlike Les Rois du Pétrole in 2010). [121]
  20. Excluded from V17: Charles Albert's No Kpote Only (2019) was proposed at V17 but was downgraded by the first and second repeaters, Ryohei Kameyama (to V16 in 2020) and Nicolas Pelorson respectively (to V15 in 2020). [139]
  21. Not included in V17: Simon Lorenzi's Soudain Seul (2021), proposed at V17 but repeated by Nicolas Pelorson (2021) who felt it was V16 saying "V17 is impossible for Soudain Seul because you do a V12 before a V14/15"; a second repeat by Camille Coudert (2022) upheld the V17 grade, however, it remains listed as V16 or V16/V17 in the main climbing databases (e.g thecrag). [140] [141]
  22. Excluded from 8C+: Dai Koyamada's The Wheel of Life (2004), once considered the first 8C+ but since downgraded to 8C  (V15); it links several boulder problems over 68 moves and is now regarded as more a sport climbing route, with grade of 9a  (5.14d). [151]
  23. Not included in V15: Markus Bock  [ de ]'s Gossip (April 2002) was proposed by Bock at 8B+  (V14) but later revised upwards by Bock to 8C  (V15), [162] however, a first repeat by John Gaskins disputed the grade and felt it was closer to 8B+  (V14); led to a very acrimonious public exchange with Bock. [163] [164] [165]
  24. Not included in V15: Klem Loskot's Emotional Landscapes SS (November 2002), was originally proposed by Loskot at 8B+  (V14), and Martin Moser's 2004 repeat was silent on the grade (he used different beta), however, Nalle Hukkataival's second repeat in 2014 (who also used different beta) suggested a possible 8C  (V15), one of the world's first; [166] currently listed at 8B+/C (note the standing start is 8A+). [167]
  25. Excluded from V14: Werner Thom's Zerberus (1997), was downgraded to V13  (8B) on its repeat by Thomas Lindinger in 2017. [170]
  26. Excluded from V12: Jacky Godoffe  [ it ]'s Partenaire Particulier (1987), which was considered at 8A+  (V12), [10] but has since been regraded to 8A  (V11) in the main climbing databases.
  27. Not included in V13: Therese Johansen's ascent of Bernd Zangerl  [ fr ]'s Propaganda (May 2011) would have ranked as the third-ever female ascent of a V13  (8B), but she downgraded the boulder herself to hard V12 or maybe V13 after climbing it. [188]

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Sport climbing</span> Type of rock climbing

Sport climbing is a type of free climbing in rock climbing where the lead climber clips into pre-drilled permanent bolts for their protection while ascending a route. Sport climbing differs from the riskier traditional climbing where the lead climber has to insert temporary protection equipment while ascending.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Chris Sharma</span> American rock climber

Chris Omprakash Sharma is an American rock climber who is considered one of the greatest and most influential climbers in the history of the sport. He dominated sport climbing for the decade after his 2001 ascent of Realization/Biographie, the world's first-ever redpoint of a consensus 9a+ (5.15a) graded route, and ushered in what was called a "technical evolution" in the sport. Sharma carried the mantle of "world's strongest sport climber" from Wolfgang Güllich, and passed it to Adam Ondra.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Dave Graham (climber)</span> American rock climber

David Ethan Graham is an American professional rock climber. Professing to enjoy bouldering the most, he is one of the elite sport climbers and boulderers of his generation. Graham repeats classic routes or boulder problems as well as performing cutting-edge first ascents. He is known for climbing in 2005 an 8C (V15) graded boulder problem called The Story of Two Worlds, in Cresciano, Switzerland). He is also known for his stance against grade inflation and for his strong anti-chipping ethic. He writes an ongoing blog for the website of Climbing Magazine.

Fred Rouhling is a French rock climber and boulderer, noted for creating and repeating some of the earliest grade 9a (5.14d) sport climbing routes in the world, including Hugh in 1993, the first-ever French 9a (5.14d) sport route. Rouhling is also known for the controversy from his proposed grading of 9b (5.15b) for his 1995 route Akira, which would have made it the world's first-ever 9b-graded sport route; 25 years later, it was graded at 9a (5.14d).

Steve McClure is a British rock climber and climbing author, who is widely regarded as Britain's leading and most important sport climber for a period that extends for over two decades, starting from the late 1990s. In 2017, he created Rainman, Britain's first-ever 9b (5.15b) sport route, and by that stage was responsible for developing the majority of routes graded 9a (5.14d) and above in Britain. Although mainly known for sport climbing, McClure has also been one of the most successful British traditional climbers, and British onsight climbers.

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Josune Bereziartu, also known as Josune Bereciartu Urruzola, is a Basque rock climber. For a decade starting in the late 1990s, she was considered the strongest female sport climber in the world and is regarded as one of the most important female rock climbers in history.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Ramón Julián</span> Spanish rock climber

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">History of rock climbing</span> Key chronological milestones

In the history of rock climbing, the three main sub-disciplines – bouldering, single-pitch climbing, and big wall climbing – can trace their origins to late 19th-century Europe. Bouldering started in Fontainebleau, and was advanced by Pierre Allain in the 1930s, and John Gill in the 1950s. Big wall climbing started in the Dolomites, and was spread across the Alps in the 1930s by climbers such as Emilio Comici and Riccardo Cassin, and in the 1950s by Walter Bonatti, before reaching Yosemite where it was led in the 1950s to 1970s by climbers such as Royal Robbins. Single-pitch climbing started pre-1900 in both the Lake District and in Saxony, and by the late-1970s had spread widely with climbers such as Ron Fawcett (Britain), Bernd Arnold (Germany), Patrick Berhault (France), Ron Kauk and John Bachar (USA).

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Adam Ondra is a Czech professional rock climber, specializing in lead climbing, bouldering, and competition climbing. In 2013, Rock & Ice described Ondra as a prodigy and the leading climber of his generation. Ondra is the only male athlete to have won World Championship titles in both disciplines in the same year (2014) and is one of the two male athletes to have won the World Cup series in both disciplines.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">The Wheel of Life</span> Bouldering route in Australia

The Wheel of Life is a 21-metre (69 ft) long sandstone bouldering route on the roof of the Hollow Mountain Cave in the Grampians of Australia. When first climbed, it was graded at 8C+ (V16), one of the world's first-ever boulder routes at that grade. With repeats, it was graded at 8C (V15), and some consider it to really be a sport climbing traverse route, at the sport grade of 9a (5.14d).

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Ethan Pringle</span> American rock climber (born 1986)

Ethan Pringle is an American rock climber with notable ascents in sport climbing, in traditional climbing, and in bouldering. He has also been active in competition climbing, winning the American national competition lead climbing championships in both youth and adult formats, and silver at the World Youth Championships.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Alexander Megos</span> German rock climber

Alexander Megos is a German rock climber specializing in sport climbing, bouldering and competition climbing. In 2013, he became the first-ever climber to onsight a 9a (5.14d) graded route. He has made the first free ascent (FFA) of some of the hardest sport climbing routes in the world, including two 9b+ (5.15c) routes, four 9b (5.15b) routes, and several boulders with a boulder 8C (V15) rating.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Anak Verhoeven</span> Belgian rock climber

Anak Verhoeven is a Belgian rock climber who specializes in sport climbing and in competition lead climbing. She has repeatedly won the Belgian National Championship in lead climbing. In 2016, she ranked first on the IFSC World Ranking List. In 2017, she won both the World Games and IFSC Climbing European Championships. Verhoeven is also one of the strongest female sport climbers, and in 2017, became the first-ever woman in history to establish a new 9a+ (5.15a) route, Sweet Neuf.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Jakob Schubert</span> Austrian rock climber

Jakob Schubert is an Austrian professional rock climber, specializing in competition climbing, sport climbing, and bouldering. He is a four-time World Champion and three-time World Cup winner in lead climbing. He is a two-time Olympic bronze medalist in the combined event.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Stefano Ghisolfi</span> Italian rock climber (born 1993)

Stefano Ghisolfi is an Italian professional rock climber, who specializes in competition climbing, sport climbing, and bouldering. In competition climbing, he completes in competition lead climbing, competition bouldering, and competition speed climbing, with lead being his strongest discipline. As a sport climber, he has redpointed sport climbing routes of grade 9b+ (5.15c), onsighted routes of 8c (5.14b), and solved boulder problems at grade 8B+ (V14). In December 2018, after climbing Perfecto Mundo, he became the fourth climber in history to redpoint a 9b+ (5.15c) route.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Silence (climb)</span> Sport climbing route in Norway

Silence, is a 45-metre (148 ft) severely overhanging sport climbing route in the granite Hanshelleren Cave in Flatanger Municipality, Norway. When Czech climber Adam Ondra made the first free ascent on 3 September 2017, it became the first rock climb in the world to have a proposed climbing grade of 9c (5.15d), and it is an important route in rock climbing history. To complete the route, Ondra undertook specialist physical and mental training to overcome its severely overhanging terrain. As of December 2024, Silence remains unrepeated.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Laura Rogora</span> Italian rock climber

Laura Rogora is an Italian rock climber who specializes in sport climbing and in competition climbing. In 2021, she became the third-ever female climber in history to redpoint a 9b (5.15b)-graded sport climbing route, with her ascent of Erebor in Italy.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Hubble (climb)</span> Sport climbing route in England

Hubble is a short 10-metre (33 ft) bolted sport climb at the limestone crag of Raven Tor in Millers Dale, in the Peak District in Derbyshire, England. When Hubble was first redpointed by English climber Ben Moon on 14 June 1990, it became the first-ever climb in the world to have a consensus climbing grade of 8c+ (5.14c); and the highest grade in the English system at E9 7b.

Sébastien Bouin, nicknamed Seb Bouin, is a French rock climber born in Draguignan. By 2022, Bouin is regarded as one of the strongest sport climbers in the world, being only the second-ever climber to establish a route graded 9c (5.15d), with DNA in 2022, and one of only a handful of climbers to create a new route at the grade of 9b+ (5.15c). Bouin is also regarded for his documentary series on the history of extreme sport climbing in France.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Barbara Zangerl</span> Austrian rock climber

Barbara Zangerl is an Austrian rock climber who is widely considered as one of the best all-round female climbers in the world. At various stages in her career, she has climbed at, or just below, the highest climbing grades achieved by a female in every major rock climbing discipline, including bouldering, traditional climbing, sport climbing, multi-pitch climbing and big wall climbing.

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Further reading