Needles (Black Hills)

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The Needles
Black Hills -Needles-31.jpg
The Needles, South Dakota, United States
USA South Dakota location map.svg
Red pog.svg
Nearest city Custer, South Dakota
Range Black Hills
Coordinates 43°50′28″N103°32′40″W / 43.84111°N 103.54444°W / 43.84111; -103.54444
Climbing type traditional face and crack climbing and bouldering [1]
Height500 feet (150 m)
Pitches 1 to 4
Grades 5.0-5.13
Rock type granite, pegmatite
Quantity of rockyears worth ( 2,000 summits)
Developmentwell developed
Cliff aspect mixed mainly traditional climbing
Seasonspring to fall
Ownership State park
Campingnone
StarsStar full.svgStar full.svgStar full.svgStar full.svgStar full.svg
A climber ascends spire nine in The Needles A climber ascends Spire Nine.jpg
A climber ascends spire nine in The Needles
A roadside needle Needles Highway, Black Hills of SD, 1988.jpeg
A roadside needle

The Needles of the Black Hills of South Dakota are a region of eroded granite pillars, towers, and spires within Custer State Park. Popular with rock climbers and tourists alike, the Needles are accessed from the Needles Highway, which is a part of Sylvan Lake Road (SD 87/89). The Cathedral Spires and Limber Pine Natural Area, a 637-acre (258 ha) portion of the Needles containing six ridges of pillars as well as a disjunct stand of limber pine, was designated a National Natural Landmark in 1976. [2]

Contents

The Needles were the original site proposed for the Mount Rushmore carvings. The location was rejected by the sculptor Gutzon Borglum owing to the poor quality of the granite and the fact that they were too thin to support the sculptures. The Needles attract approximately 300,000 people annually.

Climbing

In 1936 Fritz Wiessner climbed the Totem Pole [3] [4] and in 1937 Khayyam Spire with Bill House and Lawrence Coveney. In 1947 Jan and Herb Conn moved to the area and over the next couple decades put up over 220 first ascents. [5] In 1952 Fred Beckey and John Dudra climbed Rubaiyat Spire and Khayyam Spire. In the 1960s climbers such as Royal Robbins, and Henry Barber put up many bold routes. In 1961 John Gill made free solo ascent of 5.12a route on The Thimble which is considered one of the first climbs at that grade and still is a formidable challenge. [6] [7] In 1991 John Sherman also made a free solo ascent of Gill's Route. [8]

Classic climbs

  • Spire Two, 5.3
  • Innercourse, 5.5
  • Rum Room, 5.7
  • Tent Peg, 5.7
  • Tricuni Nail, 5.8
  • Trojan Determination, 5.8
  • Behind The Door, 5.9
  • Four Little Fishes, 5.9
  • Hardrocker, 5.9
  • Needle's Eye, 5.10-
  • Nentucket Sleigh Ride, 5.10
  • Superpin, 5.10b R
  • Farewell to Arms, 5.10+
  • For Whom the Bell Tolls, 5.11a
  • Limited Immunity, 5.11b
  • Vertigo, 5.11
  • Leaning Jowler, 5.12a
  • Walking the Plankton, 5.12b
  • Thimble, 5.12a
  • Outlet CG Boulders
Map of the Needles by climbing and caving pioneers Jan and Herb Conn. Herb Conn - The Needles in Review - Needles Map.jpg
Map of the Needles by climbing and caving pioneers Jan and Herb Conn.

Related Research Articles

Bouldering Form of rock climbing

Bouldering is a form of free climbing that is performed on small rock formations or artificial rock walls without the use of ropes or harnesses. While bouldering can be done without any equipment, most climbers use climbing shoes to help secure footholds, chalk to keep their hands dry and to provide a firmer grip, and bouldering mats to prevent injuries from falls. Unlike free solo climbing, which is also performed without ropes, bouldering problems are usually less than 6 meters (20 ft.) tall. Traverses, which are a form of boulder problem, require the climber to climb horizontally from one end to another. Artificial climbing walls allow boulderers to climb indoors in areas without natural boulders. In addition, bouldering competitions take place in both indoor and outdoor settings.

Free climbing Form of climbing not using aid climbing

Free climbing is a form of rock climbing in which the climber may use climbing equipment such as ropes and other means of climbing protection, but only to protect against injury during falls and not to assist progress. The climber makes progress by using physical ability to move over the rock via handholds and footholds. Free climbing more specifically may include traditional climbing, sport climbing, bouldering and most forms of solo climbing. Free climbing a multi-pitch route means free-climbing each of its pitches in a single session. At the end of each pitch, climbers anchor themselves to belay stations where they can rest.

City of Rocks National Reserve Protected natural area in Idaho, United States

The City of Rocks National Reserve, also known as the Silent City of Rocks, is a United States National Reserve and state park in south-central Idaho, approximately 2 miles (3.2 km) north of the border with Utah. It is widely known for its enormous granite rock formations and excellent rock climbing.

Sport climbing Form of rock climbing

Sport climbing, is a form of rock climbing that relies on permanent anchors, permanently fixed into the rock for climber protection, in which a rope that is attached to the climber is clipped into the anchors to arrest a fall; it can also involve climbing short distances with a crash pad underneath as protection. This is in contrast to traditional climbing where climbers must place removable protection as they climb. Sport climbing usually involves lead climbing and toproping techniques, but free solo and deep-water solo climbing on sport routes is also sometimes possible.

Rock climbing Sport in which participants climb natural rock formations

Rock climbing is a sport in which participants climb up, down or across natural rock formations or artificial rock walls. The goal is to reach the summit of a formation or the endpoint of a usually pre-defined route without falling. Rock climbing is a physically and mentally demanding sport, one that often tests a climber's strength, endurance, agility and balance along with mental control. Knowledge of proper climbing techniques and the use of specialized climbing equipment is crucial for the safe completion of routes.

Trango Towers

The Trango Towers are a family of rock towers situated in Gilgit-Baltistan, in the north of Pakistan. The Towers offer some of the largest cliffs and most challenging rock climbing in the world, and every year a number of expeditions from all corners of the globe visit Karakoram to climb the difficult granite. They are located north of Baltoro Glacier, and are part of the Baltoro Muztagh, a sub-range of the Karakoram range. The highest point in the group is the summit of Great Trango Tower at 6,286 m (20,623 ft), the east face of which features the world's greatest nearly vertical drop.

John Gill (climber) American mathematician (born 1937)

John Gill is an American mathematician who has achieved recognition for his rock-climbing. Many climbers consider him the father of modern bouldering.

Royal Robbins Pioneer of American rock climbing (1935–2017)

Royal Robbins was one of the pioneers of American rock climbing. After learning to climb at Tahquitz Rock, he went on to make first ascents of many big wall routes in Yosemite. As an early proponent of boltless, pitonless clean climbing, he, along with Yvon Chouinard, was instrumental in changing the climbing culture of the late 1960s and early 1970s by encouraging the use and preservation of the natural features of the rock. He went on to become a well-known kayaker.

Free solo climbing Form of climbing without protection

Free solo climbing, or free soloing, is a form of technical ice or rock climbing where the climbers climb alone without ropes, harnesses or other protective equipment, forcing them to rely entirely on their own individual preparation, strength, and skill. Free soloing is the most dangerous form of climbing, and unlike bouldering, free soloists climb above safe heights, where a fall can very likely be fatal. Though many climbers have attempted free soloing, it is considered "a niche of a niche" reserved for the sport's elite, which has led many practitioners to stardom within both the media and the sport of rock climbing. "Free solo" was originally a term of climber slang, but after the popularity of the Oscar-winning film Free Solo, Merriam-Webster officially added the word to their English dictionary in September 2019.

The Bugaboos

The Bugaboos are a mountain range in the Purcell Mountains of eastern British Columbia, Canada. The granite spires of the group are a popular mountaineering destination. The Bugaboos are protected within Bugaboo Provincial Park.

Mount Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is a rock formation that rises about 140 metres (460 ft) above the Wimmera plains in western Victoria, Australia. It is located in Arapiles approximately 10 kilometres (6.2 mi) west of the town of Natimuk and is part of the Mount Arapiles-Tooan State Park. Arapiles is a very popular destination for rock climbers due to the quantity and quality of climbs. It is one of the premier climbing sites in Australia along with the nearby Grampians. The Wotjobaluk name for the formation is Djurid.

John Salathé

John Salathé was a Swiss-born American pioneering rock climber, blacksmith, and the inventor of the modern piton.

Bob Kamps

Bob Kamps was an American rock climber whose climbing career spanned five decades. Born in Wisconsin, he began climbing in California in 1955, and was a member of that cadre of Yosemite pioneers who first ascended many of its great walls in the 1950s and 1960s. He was particularly adept on steep rock faces, and was among the first to shift attention from aid climbing to free climbing. Over the years he made more than 3,100 climbs. Many were first ascents or first free ascents.

History of rock climbing

The following is an overview of the history of rock climbing including its origins in Europe, and a compilation of notable events in the development of the sport.

Steph Davis American rock climber (born 1973)

Stephanie "Steph" Davis is an American rock climber, BASE jumper, and wingsuit flyer. She is one of the world's leading climbers, having completed some of the hardest routes in the world. She is the first woman to have free soloed a 5.11 grade climb, the first woman to summit all the peaks of the Fitzroy Range in Patagonia, the second woman to free climb El Capitan in a day, the first woman to free climb the Salathė Wall on El Capitan, the first woman to free solo The Diamond on Longs Peak in Colorado, and the first woman to summit Torre Egger. Davis was married to fellow climbers and BASE jumpers Dean Potter and Mario Richard, and currently to sky-diving instructor, flyer, and jumper Ian Mitchard. Davis is also a blogger who writes about her interests in climbing, BASE jumping, yoga, and veganism.

In the sport of bouldering, problems are assigned technical grades according to several established systems, which are often distinct from those used in roped climbing. Bouldering grade systems in wide use include the Hueco "V" grades, Fontainebleau technical grades, route colors, Peak District grades, and British technical grades. Historically, the three-level "B" system and even the Yosemite Decimal System were also used.

Jan and Herb Conn

Jan Conn and Herb Conn were climbing and caving pioneers. They are credited with establishing many classic climbs in areas like Carderock in Maryland, Seneca Rocks in West Virginia, Cannon Cliff in New Hampshire and Black Hills of South Dakota. They are also well known as cave explorers who in the 1960s and 1970s discovered and mapped over 60 miles of Jewel Cave, making it the world’s third-longest cave system.

Independence Monument (Colorado)

Independence Monument is a 5,739-foot-elevation sandstone pillar located in Colorado National Monument, in Mesa County of western Colorado, United States. This iconic 450-foot-high landmark is situated one mile southeast of the monument's visitor center, and 9 miles (14 km) west of the community of Grand Junction, where it towers above the floor of Monument Canyon and Wedding Canyon. It is a popular climbing destination, and can be seen from Rim Rock Drive.

Sentinel Spire

Sentinel Spire is a 5,500-foot-elevation (1,700-meter) sandstone pillar located in Colorado National Monument, in Mesa County of western Colorado, United States. This 200-foot freestanding tower is situated in Wedding Canyon, one-half mile east of the monument's visitor center, and 9 miles (14 km) west of the community of Grand Junction. It is also immediately south of Window Rock, and north of another climbing destination, Pipe Organ, both of which can be seen from viewpoints along Rim Rock Drive. The first ascent of the summit was made May 3, 1960, by Layton Kor, Harvey Carter, and John Auld via the class 5.10 route, Fast Draw. This was the day before the climbers also made the first ascent of nearby Kissing Couple. The first solo ascent was made by Ron Olevsky in March 1976, and the first free ascent was made by Andy Petefish and John Christenson in 1978. Some climbers refer to Sentinel Spire as Watusi Spear.

References

  1. Toula, Tim (1995). Rock 'n' Road (1st ed.). Falcon. ISBN   978-0934641357.
  2. "National Natural Landmarks - National Natural Landmarks (U.S. National Park Service)". www.nps.gov. Retrieved 2019-03-25. Year designated: 1976
  3. "Custer State Park Rock Climbing". Mountain Project. Retrieved 31 January 2016.
  4. deLannoy, Pete (March 1, 2006). "The Needles". Alpinist (15). Retrieved 10 February 2016.
  5. Stephens, Lindsay (2008). The Adventure Climbs of Herb and Jan Conn. Boulder, CO: Sharp End Pub., LLC. ISBN   9781892540560.
  6. Gill Route on the Thimble on YouTube
  7. "The Thimble Rock Climbing". Mountain Project. Retrieved 31 January 2016.
  8. Sherman, John (1994). Stone crusade : a historical guide to bouldering in America (1st ed.). Golden, Colo.: AAC Press. ISBN   9780930410629.