IFSC Climbing World Championships

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The IFSC Climbing World Championships are the biennial world championships for competition climbing organized by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC). This event determines the male and female world champions in the three disciplines of sport climbing: lead climbing, bouldering, and speed climbing. Since 2012, a Combined ranking is also determined, for climbers competing in all disciplines, and additional medals are awarded based on that ranking. [1] [2] [3] [4]

Climbing competition

A climbing competition is usually held indoors on purpose built climbing walls. There are three main types of climbing competition: lead, speed, and bouldering. In lead climbing, the competitors start at the bottom of a route and must climb within a certain time frame, making sure to clip the rope into pre-placed quickdraws along the route. Speed climbing can either be an individual or team event, with the person or team that can climb a standardized route the fastest is the winner. Bouldering competitions consist of climbing short problems without rope, with the emphasis on number of problems completed.

International Federation of Sport Climbing

The International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) is the international governing body for the sport of competitive climbing, which consists of the disciplines lead climbing, speed climbing, and bouldering. It was founded in Frankfurt on 27 January 2007 by 48 member federations, and is a continuation of the International Council for Competition Climbing, which had been in existence from 1997 to 2007 and was a part of the Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme (UIAA).

Lead climbing Competitive discipline of sports climbing

Lead climbing is a climbing style, predominantly used in rock climbing. In a roped party one climber has to take the lead while the other climbers follow. The lead climber wears a harness attached to a climbing rope, which in turn is connected to the other climbers below the lead climber. While ascending the route, the lead climber periodically connects the rope to protection equipment for safety in the event of a fall. This protection can consist of permanent bolts, to which the climber clips quickdraws, or removable protection such as nuts and cams. One of the climbers below the lead climber acts as a belayer. The belayer gives out rope while the lead climber ascends and also stops the rope when the lead climber falls or wants to rest.

Contents

The first event was organized in Frankfurt in 1991.

Frankfurt Place in Hesse, Germany

Frankfurt is a metropolis and the largest city of the German federal state of Hesse, and its 746,878 (2017) inhabitants make it the fifth-largest city of Germany after Berlin, Hamburg, Munich, and Cologne. On the River Main, it forms a continuous conurbation with the neighbouring city of Offenbach am Main, and its urban area has a population of 2.3 million. The city is at the centre of the larger Rhine-Main Metropolitan Region, which has a population of 5.5 million and is Germany's second-largest metropolitan region after the Rhine-Ruhr Region. Since the enlargement of the European Union in 2013, the geographic centre of the EU is about 40 km (25 mi) to the east of Frankfurt's central business district. Like France and Franconia, the city is named after the Franks. Frankfurt is the largest city in the Rhine Franconian dialect area.

History

In 1991, the Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme (UIAA) organized the first climbing championships with only two disciplines: lead and speed. The International Council for Competition Climbing (ICC) was created in 1997 as an internal body of the UIAA to take charge of competitions. [5]

A new discipline was introduced in the 2001 world championship: bouldering. In 2007, the independent IFSC was created as a continuation of the ICC to govern Competition Climbing.

In 2012 the World Championships were shifted to even years with a double interest: avoiding interference with the 2013 World Games climbing event and giving a supplementary opportunity to demonstrate the sport for a possible integration into the 2020 Olympic Games.

The World Games, first held in 1981, are an international multi-sport event, meant for sports, or disciplines or events within a sport, that are not contested in the Olympic Games. The World Games are organised and governed by the International World Games Association (IWGA), recognized by the International Olympic Committee (IOC). The World Games are held every four years, one year after the Summer Olympic Games. The next host city will be Birmingham, United States in 2021 then Chengdu, China in 2025.

Olympic Games Major international sport event

The modern Olympic Games or Olympics are leading international sporting events featuring summer and winter sports competitions in which thousands of athletes from around the world participate in a variety of competitions. The Olympic Games are considered the world's foremost sports competition with more than 200 nations participating. The Olympic Games are held every four years, with the Summer and Winter Games alternating by occurring every four years but two years apart.

In 2012, 2014 and 2016, a Combined ranking (sometimes also called Overall ranking) was computed for climbers participating in all of the three events. [1] [2] [3] In 2018, an additional Combined event was included, in which the six climbers with highest overall ranking [6] [7] were asked to compete again in all disciplines. Their combined score [4] was eventually computed based on results obtained in this additional event, rather than on their results in previous specific events. The Combined event was meant to test the new Olympic Games format, first applied in 2020, in which each climber will be forced to compete in all disciplines, and medals will be only awarded based on their combined score. Results obtained in each discipline were not be separately considered for awards. In 2019 the Combined competition was held again with the best eight men's and women's athletes receiving invitations to the 2020 Olympics.

Sport climbing at the 2020 Summer Olympics is an event to be held in the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo, Japan. It will be the first time that climbing has been an event in the Summer Olympics. Two events will be held, one for men and one for women. The proposed format will consist of three disciplines: lead climbing, speed climbing and bouldering. The winner will be determined based on who performs best in all three disciplines. It was previously tested at the 2018 Summer Youth Olympics.

Championships

EditionYearLocationDate(s)DisciplinesAthletesNationsWebsiteNotes
numberleadspeedboulderoverall para
1 1991 Flag of Germany.svg Frankfurt 2 October211022 [8]
2 1993 Flag of Austria.svg Innsbruck 30 April212723 [9]
3 1995 Flag of Switzerland.svg Geneva 6 May213524 [10]
4 1997 Flag of France.svg Paris 1 February215326 [11]
5 1999 Flag of the United Kingdom.svg Birmingham 3 December218030 [12]
6 2001 Flag of Switzerland.svg Winterthur 5–8 September319825 [13]
7 2003 Flag of France.svg Chamonix 9–13 July324134 [14]
8 2005 Flag of Germany.svg Munich 1–5 July331851 [15]
9 2007 Flag of Spain.svg Avilés 17–23 September330250 [16]
10 2009 Flag of the People's Republic of China.svg Xining 30 June – 5 July421944 [17]
11 2011 Flag of Italy.svg Arco 15–24 July437456 [18]
12 2012 Flag of France.svg Paris 12–16 September533156 [19] [1]
13 2014 Flag of Germany.svg Munich 21–23 August150952 [20] [2]
Flag of Spain.svg Gijón 8–14 September4
14 2016 Flag of France.svg Paris 14–18 September553353 [21] [3] [22]
15 2018 Flag of Austria.svg Innsbruck 6–16 September583458 [23] [4]
16 2019 Flag of France.svg Briançon 16–17 July1
Flag of Japan.svg Hachioji 11–21 August425339 [24] [25]
17 2021 Flag of Russia.svg Moscow [26] ?

Medal table

As of 2019 (Medals from Paraclimbing are not included in the table) [27] [ circular reference ]

RankNationGoldSilverBronzeTotal
1Flag of Russia.svg  Russia  (RUS)16122452
2Flag of France.svg  France  (FRA)12141642
3Flag of Austria.svg  Austria  (AUT)116825
4Flag of Ukraine.svg  Ukraine  (UKR)107421
5Flag of Slovenia.svg  Slovenia  (SLO)85518
6Flag of the Czech Republic.svg  Czech Republic  (CZE)610420
7Flag of the People's Republic of China.svg  China  (CHN)5319
8Flag of Italy.svg  Italy  (ITA)5016
9Flag of Japan.svg  Japan  (JPN)48618
10Flag of Poland.svg  Poland  (POL)45716
11Flag of Spain.svg  Spain  (ESP)4408
12Flag of Switzerland.svg   Switzerland  (SUI)3159
13Flag of Canada (Pantone).svg  Canada  (CAN)3104
14Flag of the United States.svg  United States  (USA)26210
15Flag of Belgium (civil).svg  Belgium  (BEL)2608
16Flag of South Korea.svg  South Korea  (KOR)2518
17Flag of Germany.svg  Germany  (GER)14813
18Flag of Iran.svg  Iran  (IRN)1113
19Flag of Kazakhstan.svg  Kazakhstan  (KAZ)0134
20Flag of Venezuela.svg  Venezuela  (VEN)0101
21Flag of the United Kingdom.svg  Great Britain  (GBR)0033
22Flag of the Netherlands.svg  Netherlands  (NED)0011
Flag of Serbia.svg  Serbia  (SRB)0011
Totals (23 nations)99100101300

Men's Results

Lead

YearGoldSilverBronze
1991 Flag of France.svg François Legrand Flag of Japan.svg Yuji Hirayama Flag of Germany.svg Guido Köstermeyer
1993 Flag of France.svg François Legrand Flag of Germany.svg Stefan Glowacz Flag of Japan.svg Yuji Hirayama
1995 Flag of France.svg François Legrand Flag of France.svg Arnaud Petit Flag of Switzerland.svg Elie Chevieux
1997 Flag of France.svg François Petit Flag of the United States.svg Chris Sharma Flag of France.svg François Legrand
1999 Flag of Italy.svg Bernardino Lagni Flag of Japan.svg Yuji Hirayama Flag of Ukraine.svg Maksym Petrenko
2001 Flag of France.svg Gérome Pouvreau Flag of the Czech Republic.svg Tomáš Mrázek Flag of France.svg François Petit
2003 Flag of the Czech Republic.svg Tomáš Mrázek Flag of Spain.svg Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza Flag of France.svg David Caude
2005 Flag of the Czech Republic.svg Tomáš Mrázek Flag of Spain.svg Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza Flag of France.svg Alexandre Chabot
2007 Flag of Spain.svg Ramón Julián Puigblanque Flag of Spain.svg Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza Flag of Switzerland.svg Cédric Lachat
Flag of the Czech Republic.svg Tomáš Mrázek
Flag of the Netherlands.svg Jorg Verhoeven
2009 Flag of Spain.svg Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza Flag of the Czech Republic.svg Adam Ondra Flag of Austria.svg David Lama
2011 Flag of Spain.svg Ramón Julián Puigblanque Flag of Austria.svg Jakob Schubert Flag of the Czech Republic.svg Adam Ondra
2012 Flag of Austria.svg Jakob Schubert Flag of Canada (Pantone).svg Sean McColl Flag of the Czech Republic.svg Adam Ondra
2014 Flag of the Czech Republic.svg Adam Ondra Flag of Spain.svg Ramón Julián Puigblanque Flag of Japan.svg Sachi Amma
2016 Flag of the Czech Republic.svg Adam Ondra Flag of Austria.svg Jakob Schubert Flag of France.svg Gautier Supper
2018 Flag of Austria.svg Jakob Schubert Flag of the Czech Republic.svg Adam Ondra Flag of Germany.svg Alex Megos
2019 Flag of the Czech Republic.svg Adam Ondra Flag of Germany.svg Alex Megos Flag of Austria.svg Jakob Schubert

Bouldering

YearGoldSilverBronze
2001 Flag of Italy.svg Mauro Calibani Flag of France.svg Frédéric Tuscan Flag of Italy.svg Christian Core
2003 Flag of Italy.svg Christian Core Flag of France.svg Jérôme Meyer Flag of Poland.svg Tomasz Oleksy
2005 Flag of Russia.svg Salavat Rakhmetov Flag of Austria.svg Kilian Fischhuber Flag of France.svg Gérome Pouvreau
2007 Flag of Russia.svg Dmitri Sarafutdinov Flag of the Czech Republic.svg Martin Stranik Flag of Switzerland.svg Cédric Lachat
2009 Flag of Russia.svg Alexey Rubtsov Flag of Russia.svg Rustam Gelmanov Flag of the United Kingdom.svg David Barrans
2011 Flag of Russia.svg Dmitri Sarafutdinov Flag of the Czech Republic.svg Adam Ondra Flag of Russia.svg Rustam Gelmanov
2012 Flag of Russia.svg Dmitri Sarafutdinov Flag of Austria.svg Kilian Fischhuber Flag of Russia.svg Rustam Gelmanov
2014 Flag of the Czech Republic.svg Adam Ondra Flag of Slovenia.svg Jernej Kruder Flag of Germany.svg Jan Hojer
2016 Flag of Japan.svg Tomoa Narasaki Flag of the Czech Republic.svg Adam Ondra Flag of France.svg Manuel Cornu
2018 Flag of Japan.svg Kai Harada Flag of South Korea.svg Jongwon Chon Flag of Slovenia.svg Gregor Vezonik
2019 Flag of Japan.svg Tomoa Narasaki Flag of Austria.svg Jakob Schubert Flag of Germany.svg Yannick Flohé

Speed

YearGoldSilverBronze
1991 Flag of the United States.svg Hans Florine Flag of France.svg Jacky Godoffe Flag of Kazakhstan.svg Kairat Rakhmetov
1993 Flag of Russia.svg Vladimir Netsvetaev Flag of Ukraine.svg Serik Kazbekov Flag of Ukraine.svg Yevgen Kryvosheytsev
1995 Flag of Ukraine.svg Andrey Vedenmeer Flag of the Czech Republic.svg Milan Benian Flag of Russia.svg Vladimir Netsvetaev
1997 Flag of Spain.svg Daniel Andrada Flag of Ukraine.svg Yevgen Kryvosheytsev Flag of Russia.svg Dmitry Bychkov
1999 Flag of Ukraine.svg Vladimir Zakharov Flag of Russia.svg Vladimir Netsvetaev Flag of Russia.svg Alexey Gadeev
2001 Flag of Ukraine.svg Maksym Styenkovyy Flag of Ukraine.svg Vladimir Zakharov Flag of Poland.svg Tomasz Oleksy
2003 Flag of Ukraine.svg Maksym Styenkovyy Flag of Poland.svg Tomasz Oleksy Flag of Russia.svg Alexander Peshekhonov
2005 Flag of Russia.svg Evgeny Vaitcekhovsky Flag of Ukraine.svg Maksym Styenkovyy Flag of Russia.svg Sergey Sinitcyn
2007 Flag of the People's Republic of China.svg Zhong Qixin Flag of Venezuela.svg Manuel Escobar Flag of Russia.svg Sergey Sinitcyn
2009 (10 m) Flag of the People's Republic of China.svg Zhong Qixin Flag of Kazakhstan.svg Alexander Nigmatulin Flag of Russia.svg Ivan Novikov
2009 (15 m) [28] Flag of the People's Republic of China.svg Zhong Qixin Flag of Russia.svg Sergey Abdrakhmanov Flag of the People's Republic of China.svg Ning Zhang
2011 Flag of the People's Republic of China.svg Zhong Qixin Flag of Russia.svg Stanislav Kokorin Flag of Ukraine.svg Danyil Boldyrev
2012 Flag of the People's Republic of China.svg Zhong Qixin Flag of the Czech Republic.svg Libor Hroza Flag of Russia.svg Dmitry Timofeev
2014 Flag of Ukraine.svg Danyil Boldyrev Flag of Russia.svg Stanislav Kokorin Flag of Iran.svg Reza Alipour
2016 Flag of Poland.svg Marcin Dzieński Flag of Iran.svg Reza Alipour Flag of Russia.svg Aleksander Shikov
2018 Flag of Iran.svg Reza Alipour Flag of France.svg Bassa Mawem Flag of Russia.svg Stanislav Kokorin
2019 Flag of Italy.svg Ludovico Fossali Flag of the Czech Republic.svg Jan Kriz Flag of Russia.svg Stanislav Kokorin

Combined

YearGoldSilverBronze
2012 [1] Flag of Canada (Pantone).svg Sean McColl Flag of Germany.svg Thomas Tauporn Flag of Switzerland.svg Cédric Lachat
2014 [2] Flag of Canada (Pantone).svg Sean McColl Flag of Germany.svg Jan Hojer Flag of France.svg Levier Alban
2016 [3] [22] Flag of Canada (Pantone).svg Sean McColl Flag of France.svg Manuel Cornu Flag of Germany.svg David Firnenburg
2018 [4] Flag of Austria.svg Jakob Schubert Flag of the Czech Republic.svg Adam Ondra Flag of Germany.svg Jan Hojer
2019 Flag of Japan.svg Tomoa Narasaki Flag of Austria.svg Jakob Schubert Flag of Kazakhstan.svg Rishat Khaibullin

Women's Results

Lead

YearGoldSilverBronze
1991 Flag of Switzerland.svg Susi Good Flag of France.svg Isabelle Patissier Flag of the United States.svg Robyn Erbesfield
1993 Flag of Switzerland.svg Susi Good Flag of the United States.svg Robyn Erbesfield Flag of France.svg Isabelle Patissier
1995 Flag of the United States.svg Robyn Erbesfield Flag of France.svg Laurence Guyon Flag of France.svg Liv Sansoz
1997 Flag of France.svg Liv Sansoz Flag of Belgium (civil).svg Muriel Sarkany Flag of Germany.svg Marietta Uhden
1999 Flag of France.svg Liv Sansoz Flag of Belgium (civil).svg Muriel Sarkany Flag of the United States.svg Elena Ovtchinnikova
2001 Flag of Slovenia.svg Martina Cufar Flag of Belgium (civil).svg Muriel Sarkany Flag of France.svg Chloé Minoret
2003 Flag of Belgium (civil).svg Muriel Sarkany Flag of France.svg Emilie Pouget Flag of France.svg Sandrine Levet
2005 Flag of Austria.svg Angela Eiter Flag of the United States.svg Emily Harrington Flag of Japan.svg Akiyo Noguchi
2007 Flag of Austria.svg Angela Eiter Flag of Belgium (civil).svg Muriel Sarkany Flag of Slovenia.svg Maja Vidmar
2009 Flag of Austria.svg Johanna Ernst Flag of South Korea.svg Kim Ja-in Flag of Slovenia.svg Maja Vidmar
2011 Flag of Austria.svg Angela Eiter Flag of South Korea.svg Kim Ja-in Flag of Austria.svg Magdalena Röck
2012 Flag of Austria.svg Angela Eiter Flag of South Korea.svg Kim Ja-in Flag of Austria.svg Johanna Ernst
2014 Flag of South Korea.svg Kim Ja-in Flag of Slovenia.svg Mina Markovič Flag of Austria.svg Magdalena Röck
2016 Flag of Slovenia.svg Janja Garnbret Flag of Belgium (civil).svg Anak Verhoeven Flag of Slovenia.svg Mina Markovič
2018 Flag of Austria.svg Jessica Pilz Flag of Slovenia.svg Janja Garnbret Flag of South Korea.svg Kim Ja-in
2019 Flag of Slovenia.svg Janja Garnbret Flag of Slovenia.svg Mia Krampl Flag of Japan.svg Ai Mori

Bouldering

YearGoldSilverBronze
2001 Flag of France.svg Myriam Motteau Flag of France.svg Sandrine Levet Flag of Ukraine.svg Nataliya Perlova
2003 Flag of France.svg Sandrine Levet Flag of Ukraine.svg Nataliya Perlova Flag of France.svg Fanny Rogeaux
2005 Flag of Ukraine.svg Olga Shalagina Flag of Russia.svg Yulia Abramchuk Flag of the Czech Republic.svg Vera Kotasova-Kostruhova
2007 Flag of Austria.svg Anna Stöhr Flag of Japan.svg Akiyo Noguchi Flag of Russia.svg Olga Bibik
2009 Flag of Russia.svg Yulia Abramchuk Flag of Ukraine.svg Olga Shalagina Flag of Austria.svg Anna Stöhr
2011 Flag of Austria.svg Anna Stöhr Flag of the United States.svg Sasha DiGiulian Flag of Germany.svg Juliane Wurm
2012 Flag of France.svg Mélanie Sandoz Flag of Russia.svg Olga Yakovleva Flag of Austria.svg Anna Stöhr
2014 Flag of Germany.svg Juliane Wurm Flag of the United States.svg Alex Puccio Flag of Japan.svg Akiyo Noguchi
2016 Flag of Switzerland.svg Petra Klingler Flag of Japan.svg Miho Nonaka Flag of Japan.svg Akiyo Noguchi
2018 Flag of Slovenia.svg Janja Garnbret Flag of Japan.svg Akiyo Noguchi Flag of Serbia.svg Staša Gejo
2019 Flag of Slovenia.svg Janja Garnbret Flag of Japan.svg Akiyo Noguchi Flag of the United Kingdom.svg Shauna Coxsey

Speed

YearGoldSilverBronze
1991 Flag of Belgium (civil).svg Isabelle Dorsimond Flag of France.svg Agnès Brard Flag of Russia.svg Venera Chereshneva
1993 Flag of Russia.svg Olga Bibik Flag of Belgium (civil).svg Isabelle Dorsimond Flag of Poland.svg Renata Piszczek
1995 Flag of France.svg Natalie Richer Flag of France.svg Cecile Avezou Flag of Poland.svg Renata Piszczek
1997 Flag of Russia.svg Tatiana Ruyga Flag of Russia.svg Irina Zaytseva Flag of Russia.svg Olga Bibik
1999 Flag of Ukraine.svg Olga Zakharova Flag of Ukraine.svg Olena Ryepko Flag of Russia.svg Natalia Novikova
2001 Flag of Ukraine.svg Olena Ryepko Flag of Russia.svg Maya Piratinskaya Flag of Russia.svg Svetlana Sutkina
2003 Flag of Ukraine.svg Olena Ryepko Flag of Russia.svg Tatiana Ruyga Flag of Russia.svg Valentina Yurina
2005 Flag of Ukraine.svg Olena Ryepko Flag of Russia.svg Valentina Yurina Flag of Poland.svg Edyta Ropek
2007 Flag of Russia.svg Tatiana Ruyga Flag of Poland.svg Edyta Ropek Flag of Russia.svg Valentina Yurina
2009 (10 m) Flag of the People's Republic of China.svg He Cuilian Flag of the People's Republic of China.svg He Cuifang Flag of the People's Republic of China.svg Li Chunhua
2009 (15 m) Flag of the People's Republic of China.svg He Cuilian Flag of the People's Republic of China.svg He Cuifang Flag of the People's Republic of China.svg Li Chunhua
2011 Flag of Russia.svg Maria Krasavina Flag of Russia.svg Anna Tsyganova Flag of Kazakhstan.svg Tamara Kuznetsova
2012 Flag of Russia.svg Yulia Levochkina Flag of Russia.svg Yulia Kaplina Flag of Russia.svg Natalia Titova
2014 Flag of Russia.svg Alina Gaidamakina Flag of Poland.svg Klaudia Buczek Flag of Poland.svg Aleksandra Rudzinska
2016 Flag of Russia.svg Anna Tsyganova Flag of France.svg Anouck Jaubert Flag of Russia.svg Yulia Kaplina
2018 Flag of Poland.svg Aleksandra Rudzinska Flag of Poland.svg Anna Brozek Flag of Russia.svg Maria Krasavina
2019 Flag of Poland.svg Aleksandra Miroslaw Flag of the People's Republic of China.svg Di Nui Flag of France.svg Anouck Jaubert

Combined

YearGoldSilverBronze
2012 Flag of South Korea.svg Kim Ja-in Flag of France.svg Cecile Avezou Flag of Switzerland.svg Petra Klingler
2014 [2] Flag of France.svg Charlotte Durif Flag of Switzerland.svg Petra Klingler Flag of Slovenia.svg Mina Markovič
2016 [3] [22] Flag of Russia.svg Elena Krasovskaya Flag of the United States.svg Claire Buhrfeind Flag of France.svg Charlotte Durif
2018 [4] Flag of Slovenia.svg Janja Garnbret Flag of South Korea.svg Sa Sol Flag of Austria.svg Jessica Pilz
2019 Flag of Slovenia.svg Janja Garnbret Flag of Japan.svg Akiyo Noguchi Flag of the United Kingdom.svg Shauna Coxsey

See also

Related Research Articles

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