IFSC Climbing World Championships | |
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Seasons | |
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Most gold medals | |
Janja Garnbret (8) |
The IFSC Climbing World Championships are the biennial (i.e. held once every two years) world championship event for competition climbing that is organized by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC). This event determines the male and female world champions in the three disciplines of competition climbing: competition lead climbing, competition bouldering, and competition speed climbing. Since 2012, a combined ranking is also determined, for climbers competing in all disciplines, and additional medals are awarded based on that ranking. [1] [2] [3] [4] The first event was organized in Frankfurt in 1991.
In 1991, the Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme (UIAA) organized the competition climbing championships. The International Council for Competition Climbing (ICC) was created in 1997 as an internal body of the UIAA to take charge of competition climbing. [5]
In 2007, the independent IFSC was created as a continuation of the ICC to govern competition climbing.
The present format has four disciplines: lead, speed, bouldering, and combined.
The first championships had two events: lead and speed. Bouldering was added in 2001.
In 2012, 2014 and 2016, a combined ranking (sometimes also called overall ranking) was computed for climbers participating in all of the three events. [1] [2] [3] In 2018, a specific combined event was included which the six climbers with highest overall ranking [6] [7] were invited to enter. The combined event requires athletes to compete in all three disciplines, and they receive a single combined score based on all three results. Scores achieved in single-discipline events are not relevant to the combined score, and there are no awards for any one part of the combined event. The 2018 combined event tested the new Olympic Games format, which was used at the first appearance of climbing at the Olympics in 2020. In 2019 the Combined competition was held again with the best eight men's and women's athletes receiving invitations to the 2020 Olympics.
In 2011, the IFSC Paraclimbing World Championships were established. The event is usually held alongside the open class competition. Para athletes compete in lead only, except for 2011 when a speed climbing competition was held as well.
The World Championships are held every two years. Twice, the cycle has been moved to the other year and in those cases this was done by holding the next championship one year earlier. In 2012 the World Championships were shifted to even years to avoid interference with the 2013 World Games climbing event and to give a supplementary opportunity to demonstrate the sport for a possible integration into the 2020 Olympic Games. In 2019 the World Championships were again held one year early, to now allow the Championships to be the year before each Olympics to operate as a qualifier event.[ citation needed ]
Edition | Year | Location | Date(s) | Disciplines | Athletes | Nations | Website | Notes | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Event | L | S | B | C | Para | ||||||||
1 | 1991 | Frankfurt | 1–2 October | 2 | X | X | - | - | - | 110 | 22 | [8] | |
2 | 1993 | Innsbruck | 29–30 April | 2 | X | X | - | - | - | 127 | 23 | [9] | |
3 | 1995 | Geneva | 5–6 May | 2 | X | X | - | - | - | 135 | 24 | [10] | |
4 | 1997 | Paris | 31 January–1 February | 2 | X | X | - | - | - | 153 | 26 | [11] | |
5 | 1999 | Birmingham | 2–3 December | 2 | X | X | - | - | - | 180 | 30 | [12] | |
6 | 2001 | Winterthur | 5–8 September | 3 | X | X | X | - | - | 198 | 25 | [13] | |
7 | 2003 | Chamonix | 9–13 July | 3 | X | X | X | - | - | 241 | 34 | [14] | |
8 | 2005 | Munich | 1–5 July | 3 | X | X | X | - | - | 318 | 51 | [15] | |
9 | 2007 | Avilés | 17–23 September | 3 | X | X | X | - | - | 302 | 50 | [16] | |
10 | 2009 | Xining | 30 June – 5 July | 4 | X | X | X | - | - | 219 | 44 | [17] | |
11 | 2011 | Arco | 15–24 July | 4 | X | X | X | - | X | 374 | 56 | [18] | |
12 | 2012 | Paris | 12–16 September | 5 | X | X | X | X | X | 331 | 56 | [19] [1] | |
13 | 2014 | Munich | 21–23 August | 1 | - | - | X | - | - | 509 | 52 | [20] [2] | |
Gijón | 8–14 September | 4 | X | X | - | X | X | ||||||
14 | 2016 | Paris | 14–18 September | 5 | X | X | X | X | X | 533 | 53 | [21] [3] [22] | |
15 | 2018 | Innsbruck | 6–16 September | 5 | X | X | X | X | X | 834 | 58 | [23] [4] | |
16 | 2019 | Briançon | 16–17 July | 1 | - | - | - | - | X | ||||
Hachioji | 11–21 August | 4 | X | X | X | X | - | 253 | 39 | Archived 20 April 2021 at the Wayback Machine | [24] [25] | ||
17 | 2021 | Moscow | 15–21 September | 5 | X | X | X | X | X | [26] | |||
18 | 2023 | Bern | 1–12 August | 5 | X | X | X | X | X | ||||
19 | 2025 | Seoul [27] | 5 | X | X | X | X | X |
As of 2023 IFSC Climbing World Championships (excluding paraclimbing medals)
Rank | Nation | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Russia | 16 | 14 | 23 | 53 |
2 | Austria | 15 | 7 | 8 | 30 |
3 | France | 14 | 17 | 17 | 48 |
4 | Ukraine | 11 | 7 | 5 | 23 |
5 | Slovenia | 9 | 7 | 5 | 21 |
6 | Czech Republic | 6 | 10 | 4 | 20 |
7 | Japan | 6 | 9 | 8 | 23 |
8 | Italy | 6 | 1 | 2 | 9 |
9 | Poland | 5 | 4 | 9 | 18 |
10 | China | 5 | 4 | 1 | 10 |
11 | Spain | 4 | 5 | 0 | 9 |
12 | United States | 3 | 9 | 4 | 16 |
13 | South Korea | 3 | 5 | 4 | 12 |
14 | Switzerland | 3 | 1 | 5 | 9 |
15 | Canada | 3 | 1 | 0 | 4 |
16 | Belgium | 2 | 6 | 0 | 8 |
17 | Germany | 2 | 5 | 9 | 16 |
18 | Iran | 1 | 1 | 2 | 4 |
19 | Indonesia | 1 | 0 | 1 | 2 |
20 | Kazakhstan | 0 | 1 | 3 | 4 |
21 | Venezuela | 0 | 1 | 0 | 1 |
22 | Great Britain | 0 | 0 | 4 | 4 |
23 | Serbia | 0 | 0 | 2 | 2 |
24 | Netherlands | 0 | 0 | 1 | 1 |
Totals (24 entries) | 115 | 115 | 117 | 347 |
Note 1: share medals in 2007 IFSC Climbing World Championships
Note 2: one silver medal in 2021 IFSC Climbing World Championships for Climbing Federation of Russia
Year | Gold | Silver | Bronze |
---|---|---|---|
1991 | François Legrand | Yuji Hirayama | Guido Köstermeyer |
1993 | François Legrand (2) | Stefan Glowacz | Yuji Hirayama |
1995 | François Legrand (3) | Arnaud Petit | Elie Chevieux |
1997 | François Petit | Chris Sharma | François Legrand |
1999 | Bernardino Lagni | Yuji Hirayama | Maksym Petrenko |
2001 | Gérôme Pouvreau | Tomáš Mrázek | François Petit |
2003 | Tomáš Mrázek | Patxi Usobiaga | David Caude |
2005 | Tomáš Mrázek (2) | Patxi Usobiaga | Alexandre Chabot |
2007 | Ramón Julián | Patxi Usobiaga | Cédric Lachat Tomáš Mrázek Jorg Verhoeven |
2009 | Patxi Usobiaga | Adam Ondra | David Lama |
2011 | Ramón Julián (2) | Jakob Schubert | Adam Ondra |
2012 | Jakob Schubert | Sean McColl | Adam Ondra |
2014 | Adam Ondra | Ramón Julián | Sachi Amma |
2016 | Adam Ondra (2) | Jakob Schubert | Gautier Supper |
2018 | Jakob Schubert (2) | Adam Ondra | Alexander Megos |
2019 | Adam Ondra (3) | Alexander Megos | Jakob Schubert |
2021 | Jakob Schubert (3) | Luka Potočar | Hamish McArthur |
2023 | Jakob Schubert (4) | Sorato Anraku | Alexander Megos |
Year | Gold | Silver | Bronze |
---|---|---|---|
2001 | Mauro Calibani | Frédéric Tuscan | Christian Core |
2003 | Christian Core | Jérôme Meyer | Tomasz Oleksy |
2005 | Salavat Rachmetov | Kilian Fischhuber | Gérôme Pouvreau |
2007 | Dmitri Sarafutdinov | Martin Stráník | Cédric Lachat |
2009 | Alexey Rubtsov | Rustam Gelmanov | David Barrans |
2011 | Dmitri Sarafutdinov (2) | Adam Ondra | Rustam Gelmanov |
2012 | Dmitri Sarafutdinov (3) | Kilian Fischhuber | Rustam Gelmanov |
2014 | Adam Ondra | Jernej Kruder | Jan Hojer |
2016 | Tomoa Narasaki | Adam Ondra | Manuel Cornu |
2018 | Kai Harada | Jongwon Chon | Gregor Vezonik |
2019 | Tomoa Narasaki (2) | Jakob Schubert | Yannick Flohé |
2021 | Kokoro Fujii | Tomoa Narasaki | Manuel Cornu |
2023 | Mickael Mawem | Mejdi Schalck | Lee Do-hyun |
Year | Gold | Silver | Bronze |
---|---|---|---|
2012 [1] | Sean McColl | Thomas Tauporn | Cédric Lachat |
2014 [2] | Sean McColl (2) | Jan Hojer | Alban Levier |
2016 [3] [22] | Sean McColl (3) | Manuel Cornu | David Firnenburg |
2018 [4] | Jakob Schubert | Adam Ondra | Jan Hojer |
2019 | Tomoa Narasaki | Jakob Schubert | Rishat Khaibullin |
2021 | Yannick Flohé | Philipp Martin | Fedir Samoilov |
2023 | Jakob Schubert (2) | Colin Duffy | Tomoa Narasaki |
Year | Gold | Silver | Bronze |
---|---|---|---|
1991 | Susi Good | Isabelle Patissier | Robyn Erbesfield |
1993 | Susi Good (2) | Robyn Erbesfield | Isabelle Patissier |
1995 | Robyn Erbesfield | Laurence Guyon | Liv Sansoz |
1997 | Liv Sansoz | Muriel Sarkany | Marietta Uhden |
1999 | Liv Sansoz (2) | Muriel Sarkany | Yelena Ovchinnikova |
2001 | Martina Čufar | Muriel Sarkany | Chloé Minoret |
2003 | Muriel Sarkany | Emilie Pouget | Sandrine Levet |
2005 | Angela Eiter | Emily Harrington | Akiyo Noguchi |
2007 | Angela Eiter (2) | Muriel Sarkany | Maja Vidmar |
2009 | Johanna Ernst | Kim Ja-in | Maja Vidmar |
2011 | Angela Eiter (3) | Kim Ja-in | Magdalena Röck |
2012 | Angela Eiter (4) | Kim Ja-in | Johanna Ernst |
2014 | Kim Ja-in | Mina Markovič | Magdalena Röck |
2016 | Janja Garnbret | Anak Verhoeven | Mina Markovič |
2018 | Jessica Pilz | Janja Garnbret | Kim Ja-in |
2019 | Janja Garnbret (2) | Mia Krampl | Ai Mori |
2021 | Seo Chae-hyun | Natalia Grossman | Laura Rogora |
2023 | Ai Mori | Janja Garnbret | Seo Chae-hyun |
Year | Gold | Silver | Bronze |
---|---|---|---|
2001 | Myriam Motteau | Sandrine Levet | Nataliya Perlova |
2003 | Sandrine Levet | Nataliya Perlova | Fanny Rogeaux |
2005 | Olga Shalagina | Julija Abramčuková | Věra Kotasová-Kostruhová |
2007 | Anna Stöhr | Akiyo Noguchi | Olga Bibik |
2009 | Julija Abramčuková | Olga Shalagina | Anna Stöhr |
2011 | Anna Stöhr (2) | Sasha DiGiulian | Juliane Wurm |
2012 | Mélanie Sandoz | Olga Yakovleva | Anna Stöhr |
2014 | Juliane Wurm | Alex Puccio | Akiyo Noguchi |
2016 | Petra Klingler | Miho Nonaka | Akiyo Noguchi |
2018 | Janja Garnbret | Akiyo Noguchi | Staša Gejo |
2019 | Janja Garnbret (2) | Akiyo Noguchi | Shauna Coxsey |
2021 | Natalia Grossman | Camilla Moroni | Staša Gejo |
2023 | Janja Garnbret (3) | Oriane Bertone | Brooke Raboutou |
Year | Gold | Silver | Bronze |
---|---|---|---|
2012 | Kim Ja-in | Cécile Avezou | Petra Klingler |
2014 [2] | Charlotte Durif | Petra Klingler | Mina Markovič |
2016 [3] [22] | Jelena Krasovská | Claire Buhrfeind | Charlotte Durif |
2018 [4] | Janja Garnbret | Sa Sol | Jessica Pilz |
2019 | Janja Garnbret (2) | Akiyo Noguchi | Shauna Coxsey |
2021 | Jessica Pilz | Mia Krampl | Elnaz Rekabi |
2023 | Janja Garnbret (3) | Jessica Pilz | Ai Mori |
Competition climbing is a form of regulated rock climbing competition held indoors on purpose-built artificial climbing walls. The three competition climbing disciplines are lead climbing, bouldering, and speed climbing. The result of multiple disciplines can be used in a "combined" format to determine an all-round winner. Competition climbing is sometimes called "sport climbing", which is the name given to pre-bolted lead climbing.
Sean McColl is a professional rock climber from North Vancouver, Canada. In competition climbing, he competes in the competition lead climbing, competition speed climbing, and competition bouldering disciplines, and has won major competitions in all three. He is also notable for his outdoor sport climbing and bouldering ascents.
The International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) is the international governing body for the sport of competition climbing, which consists of the disciplines lead climbing, bouldering, and speed climbing.
USA Climbing is the national governing body of the sport of competition climbing in the United States. As a 501(c)3 non-profit, they promote Sport Climbing which comprises three competition disciplines: bouldering, lead climbing, and speed climbing, in elite, youth and collegiate formats.
Shauna Coxsey is an English professional rock climber. She is the most successful competition climber in the UK, having won the IFSC Bouldering World Cup Season in both 2016 and 2017. She retired from competition after competing in the 2020 Olympics., and continues to climb at a high level outdoors.
Anna Stöhr is a professional climber. She is a champion in bouldering climbing competitions. She won four Bouldering World Cups, in 2008, 2011, 2012 and 2013 and two World Championships, in 2007 and 2011. Notably, she dominated the 2013 Bouldering World Cup series, by winning seven events out of eight, losing one just by one attempt to Juliane Wurm.
Dmitri Sarafutdinov, also known as Dmitrii Sharafutdinov, is a professional Russian rock climber and competition climber who specializes in competition bouldering. He has won three World Championships, in 2007, 2011 and 2012 and one Bouldering World Cup in 2013.
Mina Markovič is a professional rock climber who specialized in competition climbing, from which she is now retired. She competed in the World Cup and World Championships in competition lead climbing, competition bouldering, and competition speed climbing, obtaining her best results in lead. She also climbs on outdoor sport climbing routes where she has redpointed to 9a (5.14d).
The IFSC Climbing European Championships are the biennial European championship for competition climbing organized by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC). The first competition was held in Frankfurt in 1992.
The IFSC Climbing World Cup is a series of competition climbing events held during the year at various locations around the world, organized by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC). At each event, the athletes compete in three disciplines: lead, bouldering, and speed. The number of events varies from year to year, and the winners for each discipline are decided by the points accumulated in the year.
Competition climbing made its Olympic debut at the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo, Japan. Two events were held, one each for men and women. The format controversially consisted of one combined event with three disciplines: lead climbing, speed climbing and bouldering. The medals were determined based on best performance across all three disciplines. This format was previously tested at the 2018 Summer Youth Olympics. The Olympic code for sports climbing is CLB.
The Ice Climbing World Championship is a biennial international competition ice climbing event organized and regulated by the UIAA. It is the ice climbing equivalent of the IFSC Climbing World Championships in rock climbing.
The IFSC Climbing Asian Championships or Asian Sport Climbing Championships are annual Asian championships for competition climbing organized by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC). Until 2006, it was called UIAA Asian Championships. Then, from 2007 onwards it was called IFSC Asian Championships. In 2001, the first Bouldering Championship was held separately from 19 to 20 December 2001 in Yung Ho, Taiwan. In 2018, at the Asian Championships in Kurayoshi, Japan, a combined format was introduced.
The IFSC Climbing World Youth Championships are the annual World Youth Championships for competition climbing organized by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC). The first competition was held in Basel, Switzerland in 1992. Bouldering was introduced at the 2015 championships.
The 2014 IFSC Climbing World Championships, the 13th edition, were held in Munich, Germany from 21 to 23 August 2014 for bouldering and in Gijón, Spain from 8 to 14 September 2014 for lead, speed, and paraclimbing.
Matthew Phillips is a British paraclimber. He competed on the Great Britain Paraclimbing Team, where he was the youngest member, and is a 3 times World Champion in the AU2 category. He was coached by Head Coach Robin O'Leary. He is currently taking a break from competing and concerntrating on building his coaching and routesetting before looking to possibly try out for the Paralympics in 2028.
The IFSC Paraclimbing World Championships are the biennial world championships for competition climbing for people with disabilities organized by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC). This event determines the male and female world champions in various categories.
The 2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships, the 16th edition, were held in Hachioji, Japan from 11 to 21 August 2019. The championships consisted of lead, speed, bouldering, and combined events. The paraclimbing event was held separately from 16 to 17 July in Briançon, France. The combined event also served as an Olympic qualifying event for the 2020 Summer Olympics.
Petra Klingler is a Swiss rock climber who specializes in competition climbing. Known as a versatile climber, she competes in a wide range of competitive events, including competition bouldering, competition speed climbing, competition lead climbing, and also competition ice climbing.
The 2020 IFSC Climbing European Championships, the 13th edition, were held in Moscow, Russia from 20 to 28 November 2020. The championships consisted of lead, speed, bouldering, and combined events. The winners of the last event will automatically qualify for the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo, Japan, where climbing will make its debut.