Personal information | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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Nationality | American | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Born | McKinney, Texas | June 15, 1989|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Height | 5 ft 2 in (157 cm) (2013) [1] | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Weight | 117 lb (53 kg) (2015) [2] | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Climbing career | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Type of climber | Bouldering | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Highest grade |
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Medal record
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Updated on 18 March 2013 |
Alex Puccio (born Alexandrea Elizabeth Cocca on June 15, 1989 in McKinney, Texas) is an American professional climber specializing in bouldering. She competes in climbing competitions and split her time between climbing outdoor and indoor. She finished third overall in the 2011 and 2013 World Cup bouldering competition, second overall in the 2014 Climbing World Championship bouldering competition, and has won the American Bouldering Series eleven times. [3]
Puccio started climbing in 2002 at age thirteen with her mother. [4] In 2006, she participated for the first time in the U.S. Bouldering Championships, and won the title. [5] She later won in 2007, [6] 2008, [7] 2010, [8] 2011, [9] 2012, [10] and 2013. [11] In 2008, 2009 and 2010 she competed in the World Cup bouldering climbing but only at the stage of Vail finishing sixth respectively, before and fourth. [12] In 2011, she took part in all the steps going up to the podium five times, with three second places and two third places. Since then she has been a fixture on the IFSC Bouldering World Cup circuit where she is constantly a finalist.
She has ascended over two dozen boulders graded V12 (8A+) between the United States and Europe. [13] On July 2, 2014, Puccio ascended Top Notch in Rocky Mountain National Park, her first V13 (8B) graded boulder. [14] A month later, she ascended Jade becoming the fourth-ever woman to climb V14. [15]
She placed second in the Boulder World Championship in Munich, Germany on 23 August 2014. [16]
On June 5, 2015, she sustained a season-ending knee injury while warming up her dynos during the IFSC World Cup competition in Vail, Colorado. She required surgery to repair the torn ACL, MCL, and meniscus ligaments in her left knee which could have resulted in months of inactivity during the recovery. Despite a six-month inactivity prediction she was back climbing V13 (8B) by October 2015 with an ascent of Free Range in Boulder Canyon, Colorado. [17]
In February 2016, she won the Hueco Tanks 'Rock Rodeo' amid world class competitors proving that she was still in top form. Puccio also had the most productive week-long bouldering trip by any female in history by completing three V13 (8B) boulders among many other double-digit (V-scale) boulders. [18]
On June 19, 2016, Puccio underwent a spinal fusion surgery after doctors discovered a herniated disk between the C5 and C6 vertebrae. [19] She first noticed the serious nature of the injury during the finals of the 2016 bouldering World Cup in Vail, CO when she felt shooting pain and weakness in her arms. Despite the pain she still climbed in the finals. [19]
On December 19, 2016, she climbed the iconic razor blade climb Terre De Sienne V13 (8B) at Hueco Tanks. This achievement marked her 15th climb of that difficulty, [20] performed just six months after a serious injury.
Puccio is America's most accomplished female bouldering competitor. She has won the ABS National Championship eleven times and has been the top American female bouldering competitor at the IFSC world competitions. She has earned numerous medals in the bouldering World Cup events including gold medals at the 2009 Vail World Cup and the 2018 Vail World Cup. [21] In 2014, she earned a gold medal at the Arco Rockmaster event and a silver medal in the World Championships for bouldering. [21]
Discipline | 2011 | 2013 | 2014 |
---|---|---|---|
Bouldering | 3 | 3 | 6 |
Season | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
---|---|---|---|---|
2009 | 1 | 0 | 0 | 1 |
2011 | 0 | 3 | 2 | 5 |
2012 | 0 | 0 | 1 | 1 |
2013 | 0 | 1 | 4 | 5 |
2014 | 0 | 0 | 1 | 1 |
2018 | 1 | 0 | 0 | 1 |
Total | 2 | 4 | 8 | 14 |
Lisa Rands is an American rock climber. She is known for her bouldering for which in 2002, she became the first American female to win IFSC World Cup bouldering competitions, and topped the IFSC world boulder rankings in 2002. Rands was the first American female to climb boulders of grade V11 (8A), and V12 (8A+), and was the second-ever female in history to climb a 7C+/8A boulder. As well as making first female ascents (FFAs) of boulders such as The Mandala V12 (8A+), Rands was the first female in history to do an E8-graded traditional climbing route, The End of the Affair.
The Mandala is a 6-metre (20 ft) high granite bouldering route in the Buttermilks, a popular bouldering area near Bishop, California. Considered a "next generation" problem in the 1970s, the route was first solved by American climber Chris Sharma in February 2000. It is one of the most widely known boulder problems in the world and is graded at V12 (8A+), and the sit start variation is graded at V14 (8B+).
Andrew Earl, or Andy Earl, is a professional climber and coach from the north-east of England. He performs in both traditional climbing and bouldering, having ascended both E9 and 8B+ (V14) graded problems in Europe. He was British bouldering champion from 2003 to 2006. In 2004, he won the silver medal in bouldering at the European Championships in Birmingham. In 2007, he won the fourth stage of the Bouldering World Cup in Réunion.
Sean McColl is a professional rock climber from North Vancouver, Canada. In competition climbing, he competes in the competition lead climbing, competition speed climbing, and competition bouldering disciplines, and has won major competitions in all three. He is also notable for his outdoor sport climbing and bouldering ascents.
Paul David Robinson is an American professional rock climber who specializes in bouldering. He has established and repeated several bouldering problems at the V15 difficulty rating, in such areas as Hueco Tanks, the Buttermilks, and Magic Wood. In 2007, Robinson became the second climber in history to successfully climb a V13 boulder problem in one attempt.
Shauna Coxsey is an English professional rock climber. She is the most successful competition climber in the UK, having won the IFSC Bouldering World Cup Season in both 2016 and 2017. She retired from competition after competing in the 2020 Olympics., and continues to climb at a high level outdoors.
Anna Stöhr is a professional climber. She is a champion in bouldering climbing competitions. She won four Bouldering World Cups, in 2008, 2011, 2012 and 2013 and two World Championships, in 2007 and 2011. Notably, she dominated the 2013 Bouldering World Cup series, by winning seven events out of eight, losing one just by one attempt to Juliane Wurm.
Ashima Shiraishi is an American rock climber. Shiraishi started climbing at the age of six at Rat Rock in Central Park, joining her father. Only a few years later, she quickly established herself as one of the top boulderers and sport climbers in the world. Her numerous accomplishments include first-place finishes in international competitions, and multiple first female and youngest ascents. Shiraishi is featured in several short documentary-style films, and is the subject of the documentary short "Return to the Red" (2012).
Daniel Woods is an American professional rock climber who specializes in bouldering, and who is considered one of the most important climbers in the history of bouldering. Woods has climbed over thirty boulder problems graded at or above 8C (V15). He has also won several competition bouldering events, such as the U.S. National Bouldering Championship and some international events. In March 2021, Woods achieved the first ascent of a low start to Sleepwalker V16 (8C+) which he named Return of the Sleepwalker and proposed the grade 9A (V17), only the second-ever route in history at that grade.
Tomoko Ogawa is a Japanese boulderer. In 2012, she sent Catharsis, a boulder route in Shiobara established by Dai Koyamada, and confirmed by Daniel Woods, to become the first-ever woman to climb an 8B+ (V14) route. Ogawa began climbing in 2000, at age 22. Her other notable ascents of boulders include Caramba 8A+ (V12), Mutante 8A+ (V12), Akugeki 8A/8A+ , Atomic Playboy 8A (V11), Hatchling 8A (V11), and No Late Tenders 8A (V11).
Angela Payne is an American rock climber specializing in bouldering, who won a clean sweep of the 2003-2004 US American Bouldering Series, and who in 2010, became the first-ever female in history to climb an 8B (V13) boulder.
Alexandra Johnson is an American rock climber who specializes in bouldering and who has made numerous first female ascents of notable boulders, including Clear Blue Skies V12 (8A+) in Colorado, and Book of Nightmares V12 (8A+) and Lethal Design V12 (8A+) in Red Rocks. Her highest rated boulder send, as of 2022, was The Swarm at grade V14 (8B+) in Bishop. In competition bouldering, she won the overall American Bouldering Series in 2009, and has twice won individual stages in the annual IFSC Climbing World Cup series in bouldering.
Mélissa Le Nevé is a French professional rock climber specializing in competition bouldering, but and also in outdoor sport climbing and bouldering.
Stefano Ghisolfi is an Italian professional rock climber, who specializes in competition climbing, sport climbing, and bouldering. In competition climbing, he completes in competition lead climbing, competition bouldering, and competition speed climbing, with lead being his strongest discipline. As a sport climber, he has redpointed sport climbing routes of grade 9b+ (5.15c), onsighted routes of 8c (5.14b), and solved boulder problems at grade 8B+ (V14). In December 2018, after climbing Perfecto Mundo, he became the fourth climber in history to redpoint a 9b+ (5.15c) route.
Jan Hojer is a German professional rock climber specializing in sport climbing, bouldering, and competition climbing. He is known for winning one World Cup and two European Championships in competition bouldering. In May 2010, he climbed Action Directe, one of the most difficult sport climbing routes in the world. From 2013 to 2015, he sent several 8C (V15) boulder problems.
Oriane Bertone is a French rock climber, who specializes in competition climbing, but is also noted for her sport climbing and her bouldering.
Natalia Grossman is an American professional rock climber who specializes in competition climbing. She represents the United States at IFSC Climbing World Cup in competition bouldering and competition lead climbing. She won gold and silver at the 2021 IFSC Climbing World Championships, and has 19 podium finishes at World Cup events, including nine golds. In October 2023, Grossman qualified for the 2024 Olympic games in Paris by winning the boulder & lead combined competition at the 2023 Pan American Games.
Dreamtime is a 10-metre (33-foot) long bouldering route, on the boulder of the same name, in the gneiss bouldering area of Cresciano, Switzerland. When first solved in October 2000 by Swiss bouldering pioneer Fred Nicole, it was graded at 8C (V15), making it the world's first-ever boulder route at that grade. With subsequent repeat ascents, it was regraded to 8B+ (V14), but after the breaking of a key hold in 2009, its grade is now considered closer to 8C (V15) again. Dreamtime is one of the most notable bouldering routes in climbing history, along with Midnight Lightning, and is renowned for its beauty and challenge.
Alex Waterhouse is a British rock climber, known for competition climbing and achieving ascents on difficult outdoor boulders and lead routes. He was a member of the GB climbing team.
I'm going to step on a scale and see what I'm at now.' I think I went from 129 to 117 within a month and a half, probably.