Rock Master

Last updated

Rock Master is an international climbing competition held every year in Arco, Italy. The event takes place in two rounds: the first is an on-sight session and the second is called "after work". The final classification is given by the sum of the two events. On Friday the athletes are given a chance to survey the work route, and the actual climbing takes place on Saturday and Sunday. At the competition, two prestigious awards, known as the "Oscars of climbing", are presented: the Salewa Rock Award, and the La Sportiva Competition Award. [1]

Contents

History

In 1985 it was disputed for the first time Sportroccia to Bardonecchia. The following year the event was tied to a stop at the side of the Colodri of Arc. Right on the wall of the Colodri in 1987, played in the first Rock Master. The following year, the race left the rock and from that moment is played only on artificial in a large open space at the base of Colodri. Since 1999, in addition to lead climbing, bouldering and speed climbing competitions were also held.

Since 2006, during the event, a jury give out the "Arco Rock Legends", two awards that are considered the Oscars of climbing: [1]

Format

The competition is usually held the first weekend of September, with a few exceptions:

In 2012 the speed test was valid also as the fourth leg of the World Cup speed climbing 2012. [3]

Winners

Lead

YearMaleFemale
1987 Flag of Germany.svg Stefan Glowacz Flag of the United States.svg Lynn Hill
1988 Flag of Germany.svg Stefan Glowacz
Flag of France.svg Patrick Edlinger
Flag of the United States.svg Lynn Hill
1989 Flag of France.svg Didier Raboutou Flag of the United States.svg Lynn Hill
1990 Flag of France.svg François Legrand Flag of the United States.svg Lynn Hill
1991 Flag of Japan.svg Yuji Hirayama Flag of France.svg Isabelle Patissier
1992 Flag of Germany.svg Stefan Glowacz Flag of the United States.svg Lynn Hill
1993 Flag of Switzerland (Pantone).svg Elie Chevieux Flag of Switzerland (Pantone).svg Susi Good
1994 Flag of France.svg François Legrand Flag of the United States.svg Robyn Erbesfield
1995 Flag of France.svg François Lombard Flag of France.svg Laurence Guyon
1996 Flag of France.svg François Lombard Flag of the United States.svg Katie Brown
1997 Flag of France.svg François Legrand Flag of the United States.svg Katie Brown
1998 Flag of France.svg François Legrand Flag of France.svg Liv Sansoz
1999 Flag of Russia.svg Eugeny Ovtchinnikov Flag of Belgium (civil).svg Muriel Sarkany
2000 Flag of Russia.svg Eugeny Ovtchinnikov Flag of Belgium (civil).svg Muriel Sarkany
2001 Flag of Germany.svg Christian Bindhammer
Flag of the Czech Republic.svg Tomáš Mrázek
Flag of Japan.svg Yuji Hirayama
Flag of Belgium (civil).svg Muriel Sarkany
Flag of Slovenia.svg Martina Cufar
2002 Flag of France.svg Alexandre Chabot Flag of France.svg Sandrine Levet
2003 Flag of France.svg Alexandre Chabot Flag of Austria.svg Angela Eiter
2004 Flag of France.svg Alexandre Chabot Flag of Austria.svg Angela Eiter
2005 Flag of Spain.svg Ramón Julián Puigblanque Flag of Austria.svg Angela Eiter
2006 Flag of Spain.svg Ramón Julián Puigblanque Flag of France.svg Sandrine Levet
2007 Flag of Spain.svg Ramón Julián Puigblanque Flag of Austria.svg Angela Eiter
2008 Flag of Spain.svg Patxi Usobiaga Flag of Austria.svg Johanna Ernst
2009 Flag of Spain.svg Ramón Julián Puigblanque Flag of Austria.svg Angela Eiter
2010 Flag of Spain.svg Ramón Julián Puigblanque Flag of South Korea.svg Jain Kim
2011--
2012 Flag of Spain.svg Ramón Julián Puigblanque Flag of Austria.svg Angela Eiter
2013 Flag of Spain.svg Ramón Julián Puigblanque Flag of Slovenia.svg Mina Markovič

Bouldering

YearMaleFemale
1999 Flag of Spain.svg Daniel Andrada Flag of Russia.svg Elena Choumilova
2000 Flag of Poland.svg Tomasz Oleksy Flag of Russia.svg Natalia Novikova
2001 Flag of Russia.svg Salavat Rakhmetov Flag of France.svg Corinne Théroux
2002 Flag of Italy.svg Mauro Calibani Flag of Russia.svg Ol'ga Jakovleva
2003 Flag of Italy.svg Mauro Calibani Flag of Russia.svg Olga Bibik
2004 Flag of Switzerland (Pantone).svg Matthias Müller Flag of France.svg Mélanie Son
2005 Flag of Austria.svg Kilian Fischhuber Flag of France.svg Mélanie Son
2006 Flag of Finland.svg Nalle Hukkataival Flag of Austria.svg Anna Stöhr
2007 Flag of the United Kingdom.svg Gareth Parry Flag of Austria.svg Anna Stöhr
2008 Flag of Austria.svg Kilian Fischhuber Flag of Austria.svg Katharina Saurwein
2009 Flag of Austria.svg Kilian Fischhuber Flag of France.svg Alizée Dufraisse
2010 Flag of Switzerland (Pantone).svg Cédric Lachat  [ de ] Flag of Austria.svg Anna Stöhr
2011--
2012 Flag of Russia.svg Dmitrij Šarafutdinov Flag of the United States.svg Alex Puccio
2013 Flag of Russia.svg Rustam Gelmanov Flag of the United States.svg Alex Puccio

Speed

YearMaleFemale
1999 Flag of Ukraine.svg Vladimir Zakharov
2000 Flag of Russia.svg Alexei Gadeev
2001 Flag of Russia.svg Iakov Soubotine
2002 Flag of Poland.svg Tomasz Oleksy
2003 Flag of Russia.svg Alexei Gadeev
2004 Flag of Poland.svg Tomasz Oleksy
2005 Flag of Poland.svg Tomasz Oleksy
2006 Flag of Russia.svg Sergey Sinitsyn
2007 Flag of Russia.svg Evgenij Vajcechovskij
2008 Flag of Venezuela.svg Manuel Escobar Flag of Ukraine.svg Olena Ryepko
2009 Flag of the Czech Republic.svg Libor Hroza Flag of Poland.svg Edyta Ropek
2010 Flag of the Czech Republic.svg Libor Hroza Flag of the People's Republic of China.svg Cuilian He
2011--
2012 Flag of Italy.svg Leonardo Gontero Flag of Russia.svg Alina Gaydamakina
2013 Flag of the Czech Republic.svg Libor Hroza Flag of Russia.svg Alina Gaydamakina
2014 Flag of the Czech Republic.svg Libor Hroza Flag of France.svg Anouck Jaubert

Duel

YearMaleFemale
2011 Flag of the Czech Republic.svg Adam Ondra Flag of Russia.svg Yana Chereshneva
2012 Flag of Austria.svg Jakob Schubert Flag of Russia.svg Dinara Fakhritdinova
2013 Flag of Canada (Pantone).svg Sean McColl Flag of Russia.svg Dinara Fakhritdinova
2014 Flag of Canada (Pantone).svg Sean McColl Flag of Russia.svg Dinara Fakhritdinova
2015 Flag of the Czech Republic.svg Adam Ondra Flag of France.svg Hélène Janicot

Arco Rock Legends [1]

YearSalewa Rock AwardLa Sportiva Competition Award
2006 Flag of Spain.svg Josune Bereziartu Flag of Austria.svg Angela Eiter
2007 Flag of Spain.svg Patxi Usobiaga Flag of Austria.svg David Lama
2008 Flag of the Czech Republic.svg Adam Ondra Flag of Slovenia.svg Maja Vidmar
2009 Flag of the United States.svg Chris Sharma Flag of Austria.svg Kilian Fischhuber
2010 Flag of the Czech Republic.svg Adam Ondra Flag of Japan.svg Akiyo Noguchi
2011 Flag of the Czech Republic.svg Adam Ondra Flag of Spain.svg Ramón Julián Puigblanque
2012 Flag of the United States.svg Sasha DiGiulian Flag of Austria.svg Anna Stöhr
2013 Flag of the Czech Republic.svg Adam Ondra Flag of Slovenia.svg Mina Markovič
2014 Flag of Belgium (civil).svg Muriel Sarkany Flag of Spain.svg Urko Carmona Barandiaran
2015 Flag of Germany.svg Alexander Megos Flag of the Czech Republic.svg Adam Ondra
2016 Flag of Spain.svg Daniel Andrada Flag of Slovenia.svg Mina Markovič
2017 Flag of the United States.svg Margo Hayes Flag of Slovenia.svg Janja Garnbret

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Josune Bereziartu</span> Spanish rock climber

Josune Bereziartu, also known as Josune Bereciartu Urruzola, is a Basque rock climber. For a decade starting in the late 1990s, she was considered the strongest female sport climber in the world and is regarded as one of the most important female rock climbers in history.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Competition climbing</span> Competitive rock climbing

Competition climbing is a form of regulated rock climbing competition held indoors on purpose-built artificial climbing walls. The three competition climbing disciplines are lead climbing, bouldering, and speed climbing. The result of multiple disciplines can be used in a "combined" format to determine an all-round winner. Competition climbing is sometimes called "sport climbing", which is the name given to pre-bolted lead climbing.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Adam Ondra</span> Czech climber (born 1993)

Adam Ondra is a Czech professional rock climber, specializing in lead climbing, bouldering, and competition climbing. In 2013, Rock & Ice described Ondra as a prodigy and the leading climber of his generation. Ondra is the only male athlete to have won World Championship titles in both disciplines in the same year (2014) and is one of the two male athletes to have won the World Cup series in both disciplines.

The IFSC Climbing World Championships are the biennial world championship event for competition climbing that is organized by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC). This event determines the male and female world champions in the three disciplines of competition climbing: competition lead climbing, competition bouldering, and competition speed climbing. Since 2012, a combined ranking is also determined, for climbers competing in all disciplines, and additional medals are awarded based on that ranking. The first event was organized in Frankfurt in 1991.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Sportroccia</span> First major rock climbing competition

Sportroccia was the very first international climbing competition. Four annual Sportroccia editions were held in 1985, 1986, 1988, and 1989, in the village of Bardonecchia and Arco, Italy.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Angela Eiter</span> Austrian professional climber

Angela "Angy" Eiter is an Austrian professional rock climber who specialises in competition climbing and sport climbing. In competition lead climbing, she won three IFSC World Cups in a row (2004–2006), and four IFSC World Championships. In 2011, she achieved her 25th win in World Cup and her 42nd podium. She is also one of the strongest sport climbers in the world, and in 2017, became the first-ever female in history to climb a 9b (5.15b) route, La Planta de Shiva. In 2020, she became the first-ever female in history to complete the first free ascent (FFA) of a 9b (5.15b) route, Madame Ching.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Mina Markovič</span> Slovenian rock climber (born 1987)

Mina Markovič is a professional rock climber who specialized in competition climbing, from which she is now retired. She competed in the World Cup and World Championships in competition lead climbing, competition bouldering, and competition speed climbing, obtaining her best results in lead. She also climbs on outdoor sport climbing routes where she has redpointed to 9a (5.14d).

<span class="mw-page-title-main">IFSC Climbing World Cup</span> Annual series of competitions

The IFSC Climbing World Cup is a series of competition climbing events held during the year at various locations around the world, organized by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC). At each event, the athletes compete in three disciplines: lead, bouldering, and speed. The number of events varies from year to year, and the winners for each discipline are decided by the points accumulated in the year.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Jain Kim</span> South Korean rock climber (born 1988)

Kim Ja-in, more widely known in the Western world as Jain Kim, is a professional climber who specializes in competition climbing. She is mainly active in competition lead climbing and competition bouldering. She has won the Lead Climbing World Cup three times, the Lead Climbing World Championship once (2014), and the Rock Master once. She has won the Asian Championships 14 times in 15 years, 11 times in lead climbing and 3 times in bouldering.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Chon Jong-won</span> South Korean climber

Chon Jong-won is a South Korean competition climber, who won the IFSC Climbing World Cup in 2015 and 2017 in the competition bouldering discipline and competed in the 2020 Olympics.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Janja Garnbret</span> Slovenian rock climber

Janja Garnbret is a Slovenian professional rock climber who specializes in sport climbing and competition climbing, and who has won multiple competition lead climbing and competition bouldering events. In 2021, she became the first-ever female Olympic gold medalist in climbing and is widely regarded as one of the greatest competition climbers of all time. She is also the world's first-ever female climber to onsight an 8c (5.14b) graded sport climbing route. As of 2023, Garnbret had won the most IFSC gold medals of any competition climber in history.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Akiyo Noguchi</span> Japanese climber

Akiyo Noguchi is a Japanese professional rock climber who specializes in competition bouldering as well as outdoor bouldering and sport climbing.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Patxi Usobiaga</span> Spanish rock climber (born 1980)

Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza, best known as Patxi Usobiaga, is a Spanish professional rock climber, sports climber and boulderer. He is known for winning two Lead Climbing World Cups in a row, and for being the first-ever climber in history to onsight an 8c+ (5.14c) route.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Johanna Ernst</span> Austrian professional rock climber

Johanna Ernst is an Austrian professional rock climber who specialised in competition lead climbing and competition bouldering, but also does outdoor sport climbing.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">2018 IFSC Climbing World Championships</span>

The 2018 IFSC Climbing World Championships, the 15th edition, were held in Innsbruck, Austria from 6 to 16 September 2018. The championships consisted of lead, speed, bouldering, paraclimbing, and combined events.

The 2014 IFSC Climbing World Cup was held in 16 locations. Bouldering competitions were held in 8 locations, lead in 8 locations, and speed in 7 locations. The season began on 26 April in Chongqing, China and concluded on 16 November in Kranj, Slovenia.

The 2007 IFSC Climbing World Championships, the 9th edition, were held in Aviles, Spain from 17 to 23 September 2007. It was the first Climbing World Championships organized by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC).

The 2019 IFSC Climbing World Cup was held in 12 locations. Bouldering, lead and speed competitions were each held in 6 locations. The season began on 5 April in Meiringen, Switzerland with the first bouldering competition in the season, and concluded on 27 October in Inzai, Japan, with the last lead climbing competition in the season.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships</span>

The 2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships, the 16th edition, were held in Hachioji, Japan from 11 to 21 August 2019. The championships consisted of lead, speed, bouldering, and combined events. The paraclimbing event was held separately from 16 to 17 July in Briançon, France. The combined event also served as an Olympic qualifying event for the 2020 Summer Olympics.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Sport climbing at the 2024 Summer Olympics</span> Sport climbing events at the 2024 Summer Olympics

Competition climbing at the 2024 Summer Olympics is scheduled to run from 5 to 10 August at Le Bourget Sport Climbing Venue in Saint-Denis, returning to the program for the second time since the sport's official debut three years earlier in Tokyo 2020. The total number of medal events will double from two in the previous edition, separating the boulder-and-lead tandem from the speed format. Furthermore, Paris 2024 will witness a significant rise in the number of sport climbers competing contrary to Tokyo 2020, expanding the roster size from 40 to 68.

References

  1. 1 2 3 "Arco Rock Legends 2017: Six Nominations for Sport Oscar". Gripped.com. 25 August 2017. Retrieved 20 January 2022.
  2. Vinicio Stefanello. "Rock Master Gran Galà – Duel". arco2011.it. Retrieved 1 April 2013.
  3. "Speed World Cup, historic victory for Leonardo Gontero and Gaydamakina". planetmountain.com. 1 September 2012. Retrieved 1 April 2013.

Bibliography