Jakob Schubert

Last updated
Jakob Schubert
Jakob Schubert Climbing WCh 2018.jpg
Jakob Schubert at the 2018 IFSC Climbing World Championships
Personal information
NationalityAustrian
Born (1990-12-31) December 31, 1990 (age 34) [1]
Innsbruck, Austria
OccupationProfessional sport climber
Height176 cm (5 ft 9 in)
Weight63 kg (139 lb)
Website www.jakob-schubert.com OOjs UI icon edit-ltr-progressive.svg
Climbing career
Type of climber
Highest grade
Known for
  • Three-time World Cup (lead) winner (2011, 2014, 2018)
  • Four-time World (lead) Champion (2012, 2018, 2021, 2023)
  • Two-time Olympic medalist (combined)
  • Most men's IFSC Gold Medals
First ascents
  • Companion of Change (9a+, 2015)
  • Kein Licht Kein Schatten (9a, 2016)
  • B.I.G. (9c, 2023)
Medal record
Men's competition climbing
Representing Flag of Austria.svg  Austria
Olympic Games
Bronze medal icon (B initial).svg 2020 Tokyo Combined
Bronze medal icon (B initial).svg 2024 Paris Combined
World Championships
Gold medal icon (G initial).svg 2012 Paris Lead
Gold medal icon (G initial).svg 2018 Innsbruck Lead
Gold medal icon (G initial).svg2018 InnsbruckCombined
Gold medal icon (G initial).svg 2021 Moscow Lead
Gold medal icon (G initial).svg 2023 Bern Lead
Gold medal icon (G initial).svg 2023 Bern Combined
Silver medal icon (S initial).svg 2011 Arco Lead
Silver medal icon (S initial).svg 2016 Paris Lead
Silver medal icon (S initial).svg 2019 Hachiōji Bouldering
Silver medal icon (S initial).svg2019 HachiōjiCombined
Bronze medal icon (B initial).svg2019 HachiōjiLead
World Cup
Winner2011Lead
Winner2011Combined
Winner2012Combined
Winner2013Combined
Winner2014Lead
Bronze medal icon.svg2015Lead
Silver medal icon.svg2016Lead
Silver medal icon.svg2016Combined
Winner2018Lead
Winner2018Combined
World Youth Championships
Gold medal icon (G initial).svg2007Youth Lead
Gold medal icon (G initial).svg2008Juniors Lead
Gold medal icon (G initial).svg2009Juniors Lead
Silver medal icon (S initial).svg2005Youth Lead
Silver medal icon (S initial).svg2006Youth Lead
European Championships
Gold medal icon (G initial).svg 2022 Munich Combined
Bronze medal icon (B initial).svg2010Lead
Bronze medal icon (B initial).svg2013Bouldering
Bronze medal icon (B initial).svg2017Lead
Updated on August 9, 2024

Jakob Schubert (born December 31, 1990) is an Austrian professional rock climber, specializing in competition climbing (lead and boulder), sport climbing, and bouldering. He is a four-time World Champion (2012, 2018, 2021, 2023) and three-time World Cup winner (2011, 2014, 2018) in lead climbing. He is a two-time Olympic bronze medalist in the combined event (2020 and 2024).

Contents

As of 2023, Schubert had won the most men's IFSC gold medals of any male competition climber in history.

In addition to competition climbing, Schubert is the only climber in the world to have both redpointed a 9c  (5.15d) graded sport climbing route and climbed a 9A  (V17) graded bouldering problem.

Climbing career

Competition climbing

Schubert started competition climbing in 2003 when he was twelve years old. In 2004, he participated in the European Youth Cup and World Youth Championships. Since 2007, he regularly participates in World Cup competitions for lead climbing. For seven World Cup seasons out of ten, from 2007 to 2016, he also competed in bouldering.[ citation needed ]

In 2011, he won the Lead World Cup and the silver medal at the Lead World Championships in Arco. [2] The World Cup was outstandingly obtained by winning seven consecutive competitions in that season. Previously, no climber was ever able to win as many World Cup competitions in a single season (in 2002, Alexandre Chabot had won six). [3]

In 2012, he won the Lead Climbing World Championships in Paris. [4]

In 2014, he won the Lead World Cup for the second time. [5]

In 2018, when he was 27 years old, he became World Champion again, in his own birthplace and hometown, Innsbruck. He earned the title by reaching in the final event the same score as Adam Ondra (36+), but a higher score in the semifinal, where he ranked second after Domen Škofic. A few days later, in the same competition, he also conquered the Combined title by ranking second in Speed, first in Bouldering, and second in Lead. In the same year, he was awarded his third World Cup.[ citation needed ]

Schubert's performance at the 2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships qualified him for a place at the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo, [6] where he won the bronze medal in the combined event. [7]

Schubert won the lead event at the 2023 IFSC Climbing World Championships, becoming the oldest world champion in the sport. [8] He followed that up by winning the combined event, which qualified him to compete in the combined event at the 2024 Summer Olympics in Paris. [9]

He won a second consecutive bronze medal in the combined event at the 2024 Summer Olympics. [10]

Rock climbing

In 2023, Schubert became the only person in the world to have climbed the top grade in both bouldering and sport climbing. [11]

Rankings

Jakob Schubert at the World Cup in Munich, 2012. BW 2012-08-26 Jakob Schubert AUS 0854.JPG
Jakob Schubert at the World Cup in Munich, 2012.

Climbing World Cup

Discipline [12] 200720082009201020112012201320142015201620172018
Lead2674213213261
Bouldering60651932-2523109
Speed-----4359----59
Combined--42111-4261

Climbing World Championships

Youth [13]

Discipline2004
Youth B		2005
Youth B		2006
Youth A		2007
Youth A		2008
Juniors		2009
Juniors
Lead3322111

Adult [13]

Discipline 2009 2011 2012 2014 2016 2018 2019 2021 2023
Lead2621521311
Bouldering-----1022712
Speed-----11059--
Combined-----12-1

Climbing European Championships

Discipline [13] 20082010201320152017
Lead63763
Bouldering--34-
Speed--352731

Number of medals in the Climbing European Youth Cup

Lead

Season [13] CategoryGoldSilverBronzeTotal
2004Youth B11
2005Youth B11
2006Youth A3115
Total3137

Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup

Lead

Season [13] GoldSilverBronzeTotal
200811
2009112
20101214
20117119
20121315
20132215
20142125
2015224
2016235
2017213
2018235
201911
202011
202111
2023112
202411
Total21171654

Bouldering

Season [13] GoldSilverBronzeTotal
201111
2012112
20131113
201811
2019112
202111
202411
Total32611

Number of medals in the Olympics

Combined

Summer OlympicsGoldSilverBronzeTotal
2020 11
2024 11
Total0022

Notable ascents

Redpointed routes

9c  (5.15d):

9b+  (5.15c):

9b  (5.15b):

9a+  (5.15a)

  • Es Pontàs – Mallorca (ESP) – October, 2021 – Fourth ascent of Chris Sharma's 2006 route.
  • Catxasa – Santa Linya (ESP) – January 9, 2018 – Second ascent after Chris Sharma
  • Seleccio Anal – Oliana (ESP) – January 8, 2017
  • Pachamama – Oliana (ESP) – January 2, 2017 – Third ascent (first by Chris Sharma, 2009)
  • Joe Mama – Oliana (ESP) – December 27, 2016 – Second ascent after Chris Sharma
  • Kangroo Limb – Flatanger (NOR) – May 29, 2016 – Second ascent after Adam Ondra
  • Companion of Change – Zillertal (AUT) – November 18, 2015 – First ascent
  • Papichulo – Oliana (ESP) – April 27, 2011 – Sixth ascent (first by Chris Sharma, 2008) [17]

9a  (5.14d):

  • Kein Licht Kein Schatten – Ötztal (AUT) – November 8, 2016 – First ascent
  • Kraftplatzl – Berglsteiner See (AUT) – October 15, 2016 – Second Ascent after David Lama
  • Direct open your mind – Santa Linya (ESP) – January 3, 2013
  • Fuck the System – Santa Linya (ESP)- January 2, 2013 [18]
  • Analogica Natural – Santa Linya (ESP) – January 2, 2013 [18]
  • Seleccio Natural – Santa Linya (ESP) – December 28, 2012
  • Ciudad de Dios – Santa Linya (ESP) – December 24, 2012
  • Martin Krpan – Misja Pec (SVN) – November 21, 2011 [19]
  • Hades – Nassereith, Götterwand (AUT) – May 30, 2010 – First ascent by Andreas Bindhammer, 2008 [20]
  • Underground – Massone, Arco (ITA) – March 30, 2010 – First ascent by Manfred Stuffer, 1998

Onsighted routes

8c  (5.14b):

Boulder problems

9A (V17)
8C (V15)
  • Sierra Madre – Zillertal (AUT) – November 20, 2018
8B+ (V14)
  • Witness the fitness – Cova de Ocell (ESP) – January 13, 2019 – flashed [23]
  • Hide and Sick – Maltatal (AUT) – March 25, 2018
  • Off the Wagon - Val Bavona (CHE) January 10, 2020

See also

References

  1. ↑ "Paris 2024: SCHUBERT Jakob". Olympics.com. 2024. Retrieved 5 January 2025.
  2. ↑ planetmountain.com, ed. (November 28, 2011). "Puigblanque re di Spagna, insieme a Eiter, Kim e Markovic" . Retrieved December 23, 2011.
  3. ↑ climbmagazine.com, ed. (October 22, 2011). "Record 7 World Cup wins". Archived from the original on July 23, 2012. Retrieved April 15, 2012.
  4. ↑ Franz Schiassi (September 18, 2012). planetmountain.com (ed.). "Campionati del Mondo di arrampicata sportiva 2012, tutti i risultati da Parigi" . Retrieved September 18, 2012.
  5. ↑ "Jain Kim and Jakob Schubert win the Lead World Cup 2014". PlanetMountain.com. 2014-10-28. Retrieved 2022-09-04.
  6. ↑ "Jakob Schubert and Alexander Megos qualify for the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo". LACRUX Klettermagazin. 19 August 2019. Retrieved 18 July 2021.
  7. ↑ "Tokyo Olympics: Sport Climbing - Men's Combined results". BBC Sport. 2021-08-03. Retrieved 2024-08-09.
  8. ↑ "LEAD RECORDS BROKEN BY MORI AND SCHUBERT IN BERN". August 6, 2023. Retrieved August 13, 2023.
  9. ↑ "IFSC Climbing World Championships 2023: Jakob Schubert adds combined boulder and lead title to lead gold in Bern". August 12, 2023. Retrieved August 13, 2023.
  10. ↑ "Sport Climbing Men's Boulder & Lead. Individual Medals and Ranking". Paris Olympics 2024.
  11. ↑ "NEWSFLASH: Alphane, 9A, for Jakob Schubert". www.ukclimbing.com. 2023-12-21. Retrieved 2024-08-09.
  12. ↑ IFSC, ed. (August 20, 2019). "World Cup Rankings" . Retrieved August 20, 2019.
  13. 1 2 3 4 5 6 IFSC, ed. (August 20, 2019). "Schubert's profile and rankings" . Retrieved August 20, 2019.
  14. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 "Jakob Schubert proposes 9c for B.I.G. at Flatanger". PlanetMountain. 28 September 2023. Retrieved 28 September 2023.
  15. ↑ https://www.instagram.com/jakob.schubert/p/C2aiGdIoRsc/
  16. ↑ planetmountain.com, ed. (January 2, 2015). "Jakob Schubert ripete Fight or Flight 9b a Oliana in Spagna" . Retrieved February 19, 2015.
  17. ↑ planetmountain.com, ed. (April 28, 2011). "Jakob Schubert e Gabriele Moroni scatenati" . Retrieved December 22, 2011.
  18. 1 2 up-climbing.com, ed. (January 3, 2013). "Realizzazioni spagnole per Schubert e Midtboe". Archived from the original on April 12, 2013. Retrieved January 5, 2013.
  19. ↑ up-climbing.com, ed. (November 27, 2011). "9a per Jakob Schubert". Archived from the original on 2011-12-26. Retrieved December 22, 2011.
  20. ↑ up-climbing.com, ed. (June 2, 2010). "Jakob Schubert – 9a". Archived from the original on August 5, 2024. Retrieved December 22, 2011.
  21. ↑ up-climbing.com, ed. (April 25, 2011). "Jakob Schubert 8c onsight". Archived from the original on 2016-03-07. Retrieved December 22, 2011.
  22. ↑ "Instagram". www.instagram.com. Retrieved 2023-12-21.
  23. ↑ "Jakob Schubert flashes 8B+ boulder Catalan Witness the Fitness". PlanetMountain.com. 13 January 2018. Retrieved 2019-03-29.
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