| Sport climbing at the Summer Olympics | |
|---|---|
 | |
| IOC Discipline Code | CLB |
| Events | 4 (men: 2; women: 2) |
| Games | |
| |
Competition climbing made its Olympic debut at the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo, Japan. It is governed by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC).
The inclusion was proposed by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) in 2015. [1] In September 2015, competition climbing was included in a shortlist along with baseball, softball, skateboarding, surfing, and karate to be considered for inclusion in the 2020 Summer Olympics; [2] and in June 2016, the executive board of the International Olympic Committee (IOC) announced that they would support the proposal to include all of the shortlisted sports in the 2020 Games. [3] Finally, on August 3, 2016, all five sports (counting baseball and softball together as one sport) were approved for inclusion in the 2020 Olympic program. [4]
At the 2020 Summer Olympics, two climbing events were contested: men's combined and women's combined. The competition format combined three disciplines of competition climbing: competition speed climbing, competition bouldering, and competition lead climbing. This decision caused widespread criticism in the climbing community. [5]
Members of the IFSC explained that they were only granted one gold medal per gender by the Olympic committee, and they did not want to exclude speed climbing. The IFSC's goal for the 2020 Olympics was primarily to establish climbing and its three disciplines as Olympic sports; changes to the format could follow later. This tactic proved to be successful as they were granted a second set of medals for the 2024 Summer Olympics, where speed climbing will be a separate event from the combined event of lead climbing and bouldering. [6] [7] [8]
|
| Current program | |||
| Event | 2020 | 2024 | Years |
|---|---|---|---|
| Men's combined | X | X | 2 |
| Men's speed | X | 1 | |
| Women's combined | X | X | 2 |
| Women's speed | X | 1 | |
| Events | 2 | 4 | |
The following nations have taken part in the Olympic climbing competition. The numbers in the table indicate the number of competitors sent to that year's Olympics.
| Nation | 2020 | 2024 | Years |
|---|---|---|---|
 Australia | 2 | ||
 Austria | 2 | ||
 Canada | 2 | ||
 China | 2 | ||
 Czech Republic | 1 | ||
 France | 4 | ||
 Germany | 2 | ||
 Great Britain | 1 | ||
 Italy | 3 | ||
 Japan | 4 | ||
 Kazakhstan | 1 | ||
 Poland | 1 | ||
 ROC | 3 | ||
 Slovenia | 2 | ||
 South Africa | 2 | ||
 South Korea | 2 | ||
 Spain | 1 | ||
 Switzerland | 1 | ||
 United States | 4 | ||
| Nations | 19 | ||
| Climbers | 40 | ||
| Year | 2020 | 2024 |
| Event | Round | Climber | Nation | Time | Games | Date | Record |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Men's combined (speed) | Qualification | Bassa Mawem | France | 5.45 | 2020 Tokyo | 3 August 2021 | OR [9] |
| Women's combined (speed) | Qualification | Aleksandra Mirosław | Poland | 6.97 | 2020 Tokyo | 4 August 2021 | OR [10] |
| Final | Aleksandra Mirosław | Poland | 6.84 | 2020 Tokyo | 6 August 2021 | WR [11] |
| Rank | Nation | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Slovenia (SLO) | 1 | 0 | 0 | 1 |
| Spain (ESP) | 1 | 0 | 0 | 1 | |
| 3 | Japan (JPN) | 0 | 1 | 1 | 2 |
| 4 | United States (USA) | 0 | 1 | 0 | 1 |
| 5 | Austria (AUT) | 0 | 0 | 1 | 1 |
| Totals (5 entries) | 2 | 2 | 2 | 6 | |
| Games | Gold | Silver | Bronze |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2020 Tokyo | Alberto Ginés López  Spain | Nathaniel Coleman  United States | Jakob Schubert  Austria |
| 2024 Paris |
| Games | Gold | Silver | Bronze |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2024 Paris |
| Games | Gold | Silver | Bronze |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2020 Tokyo | Janja Garnbret  Slovenia | Miho Nonaka  Japan | Akiyo Noguchi Japan |
| 2024 Paris |
| Games | Gold | Silver | Bronze |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2024 Paris |
Olympic sports are sports that are contested in the Summer Olympic Games and Winter Olympic Games. The 2020 Summer Olympics included 33 sports; the 2022 Winter Olympics included seven sports. Each Olympic sport is represented at the International Olympic Committee (IOC) by an international governing body called an International Federation (IF).
Competition climbing is a form of regulated rock climbing competition held indoors on purpose-built artificial climbing walls. The three competition climbing disciplines are lead climbing, bouldering, and speed climbing. The result of multiple disciplines can be used in a "combined" format to determine an all-round winner. Competition climbing is sometimes called "sport climbing", which is the name given to pre-bolted lead climbing.
Speed climbing is a climbing discipline in which speed is the ultimate goal. Speed climbing is done on rocks, walls and poles and is only recommended for highly skilled and experienced climbers.
The International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) is the international governing body for the sport of competition climbing, which consists of the disciplines lead climbing, bouldering, and speed climbing.
USA Climbing is the national governing body of the sport of competition climbing in the United States. As a 501(c)3 non-profit, they promote Sport Climbing which comprises three competition disciplines: bouldering, lead climbing, and speed climbing, in elite, youth and collegiate formats.
Skateboarding at the 2020 Summer Olympics was an event held in the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo, Japan. It was the debut appearance of skateboarding at the Summer Olympics. Skateboarding was one of four new sports added to the Olympic program for 2020; it is also provisionally approved for the 2024 Summer Olympic games. The proposal to add skateboarding to the Olympics was approved in August 2016.
Karate at the 2020 Summer Olympics was an event held in the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo, Japan. It was the debut appearance of karate at the Summer Olympics. Karate was one of four new sports added to the Olympic program specifically for 2020, rather than as a permanent sport.
Competition climbing made its Olympic debut at the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo, Japan. Two events were held, one each for men and women. The format controversially consisted of one combined event with three disciplines: lead climbing, speed climbing and bouldering. The medals were determined based on best performance across all three disciplines. This format was previously tested at the 2018 Summer Youth Olympics. The Olympic code for sports climbing is CLB.
Karate was first included in the Summer Olympic Games at the 2020 Games in Tokyo, Japan. After it was announced to not be included in 2024, in August 2022 it was announced that karate had made the shortlist for inclusion in the 2028 Games, although it was ultimately not selected.
Skateboarding made its debut appearance at the 2020 Summer Olympics in 2021 in Tokyo, Japan. It has also been provisionally approved by the IOC for inclusion at the 2024 Olympic Games in Paris.
Surfing made its debut appearance at the 2020 Summer Olympics in 2020 in Tokyo, Japan. It has also been approved by the IOC for inclusion at the 2024 Olympic Games in Paris.
Akiyo Noguchi is a Japanese professional rock climber who specializes in competition bouldering as well as outdoor bouldering and sport climbing.
Miho Nonaka is a Japanese competition climber who specializes in competition bouldering. She competed at the 2020 Summer Olympics, in Women's combined, winning a silver medal.
There were 40 quota spots available for sport climbing at the 2020 Summer Olympics. Each National Olympic Committee (NOC) could obtain a maximum of 2 spots in each event. Each event had 20 competitors qualify: 18 from qualifying, 1 from the host (Japan), and 1 from Tripartite Commission invitations.
The 2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships, the 16th edition, were held in Hachioji, Japan from 11 to 21 August 2019. The championships consisted of lead, speed, bouldering, and combined events. The paraclimbing event was held separately from 16 to 17 July in Briançon, France. The combined event also served as an Olympic qualifying event for the 2020 Summer Olympics.
Ludovico Fossali is an Italian competition speed climber. He competed at the 2020 Summer Olympics, in Men's combined climbing.
Aleksandra Mirosław is a Polish competition speed climber and a two-time women's speed world champion as well as the current women's competition speed climbing world record holder.
The women's combined event at the 2020 Summer Olympics was a climbing competition combining three disciplines. It took place between 4 and 6 August 2021 at the Aomi Urban Sports Park in Tokyo. 20 athletes from 15 nations competed. Sport climbing was one of four new sports added to the Olympic program for 2020.
Bassa Mawem is a French professional speed climber who specialises in competition climbing. He qualified for the 2020 Summer Olympics. He also qualified for the 2024 Olympics.
Competition climbing at the 2024 Summer Olympics is scheduled to run from 5 to 10 August at Le Bourget Sport Climbing Venue in Saint-Denis, returning to the program for the second time since the sport's official debut three years earlier in Tokyo 2020. The total number of medal events will double from two in the previous edition, separating the boulder-and-lead tandem from the speed format. Furthermore, Paris 2024 will witness a significant rise in the number of sport climbers competing contrary to Tokyo 2020, expanding the roster size from 40 to 68.
| Summer sports |
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| Winter sports | |
| 2024 addition | |
| 2026 addition | |
| 2028 additions | |
| Past sports | |
| Demonstration sports | |
| Unofficial sports |
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