Sport climbing at the Summer Olympics | |
---|---|
IOC Code | CLB |
Governing body | IFSC |
Events | 4 (men: 2; women: 2) |
Summer Olympics | |
Competition climbing has been held at two editions of the Summer Olympic Games. First selected as one of the discretionary sports at the 2020 and 2024 games, sport climbing will be inducted as one of the mandatory sports at the 2028 games. Athletes compete in the disciplines of bouldering, lead climbing, and speed climbing. All three were contested as a single event in the 2020 programme, while speed climbing was spun off into its own event in the 2024 programme. Slovenia have won the most gold medals (2), while Austria, Japan, and the United States have won the most medals overall (3 each).
The inclusion was proposed by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) in 2015. [1] In September 2015, competition climbing was included in a shortlist along with baseball, softball, skateboarding, surfing, and karate to be considered for inclusion in the 2020 Summer Olympics; [2] and in June 2016, the executive board of the International Olympic Committee (IOC) announced that they would support the proposal to include all of the shortlisted sports in the 2020 Games. [3] Finally, on August 3, 2016, all five sports (counting baseball and softball together as one sport) were approved for inclusion in the 2020 Olympic program. [4]
At the 2020 Summer Olympics, two climbing events were contested: men's combined and women's combined. The competition format combined three disciplines of competition climbing: competition speed climbing, competition bouldering, and competition lead climbing. This decision caused widespread criticism in the climbing community. [5]
Members of the IFSC explained that they were only granted one gold medal per gender by the Olympic committee, and they did not want to exclude speed climbing. The IFSC's goal for the 2020 Olympics was primarily to establish climbing and its three disciplines as Olympic sports; changes to the format could follow later. This tactic proved to be successful as they were granted a second set of medals for the 2024 Summer Olympics, where speed climbing will be a separate event from the combined event of lead climbing and bouldering. [6] [7] [8]
For Olympic level sports climbing, route setters are instructed to set lead climbs at a grade of between 8c (5.14b) and 9a (5.14d) for both the men's and women's events. For boulder, men's routes are set between a grade of V10 (7C+) and V14 (8B+), and women's routes between V9 (7C) and V12 (8A+). [9] [10]
NB:
Games | Events | Best nations |
---|---|---|
2020 Summer Olympics | 2 | Spain (1) Slovenia (1) |
2024 Summer Olympics | 4 | Poland (1) |
Current program | |||
Event | 2020 | 2024 | Years |
---|---|---|---|
Men's combined (s, b, l) | X | 1 | |
Men's combined (b, l) | X | 1 | |
Men's speed | X | 1 | |
Women's combined (s, b, l) | X | 1 | |
Women's combined (b, l) | X | 1 | |
Women's speed | X | 1 | |
Events | 2 | 4 |
The following nations have taken part in the Olympic climbing competition. The numbers in the table indicate the number of competitors sent to that year's Olympics.
Nation | 2020 | 2024 | Years |
---|---|---|---|
Australia | 2 | 2 | 2 |
Austria | 2 | 2 | 2 |
Belgium | – | 1 | 1 |
Canada | 2 | – | 1 |
China | 2 | 7 | 2 |
Czech Republic | 1 | 1 | 2 |
France | 4 | 7 | 2 |
Germany | 2 | 3 | 2 |
Great Britain | 1 | 4 | 2 |
Indonesia | – | 4 | 1 |
Iran | – | 1 | 1 |
Italy | 3 | 4 | 2 |
Japan | 4 | 4 | 2 |
Kazakhstan | 1 | 1 | 2 |
New Zealand | – | 2 | 1 |
Poland | 1 | 2 | 2 |
ROC | 3 | – | 1 |
Slovenia | 2 | 3 | 2 |
South Africa | 2 | 4 | 2 |
South Korea | 2 | 3 | 2 |
Spain | 1 | 2 | 2 |
Switzerland | 1 | 1 | 2 |
Ukraine | – | 2 | 1 |
United States | 4 | 8 | 2 |
Nations | 19 | 22 | 24 |
Climbers | 40 | 68 | |
Year | 2020 | 2024 | 2 |
Event | Round | Climber | Nation | Time | Games | Date | Record |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Men's combined (speed) | Qualification | Bassa Mawem | France | 5.45 | 2020 Tokyo | 3 August 2021 | OR [11] |
Women's combined (speed) | Qualification | Aleksandra Mirosław | Poland | 6.97 | 4 August 2021 | OR [12] | |
Final | Aleksandra Mirosław | Poland | 6.84 | 6 August 2021 | WR [13] | ||
Women's speed | Qualification | Aleksandra Mirosław | Poland | 6.06 | 2024 Paris | 5 August 2024 | WR [14] |
Men's speed | Bronze medal match | Sam Watson | United States | 4.74 | 8 August 2024 | WR |
Rank | Nation | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Slovenia (SLO) | 2 | 0 | 0 | 2 |
2 | Poland (POL) | 1 | 0 | 1 | 2 |
3 | Great Britain (GBR) | 1 | 0 | 0 | 1 |
Indonesia (INA) | 1 | 0 | 0 | 1 | |
Spain (ESP) | 1 | 0 | 0 | 1 | |
6 | Japan (JPN) | 0 | 2 | 1 | 3 |
United States (USA) | 0 | 2 | 1 | 3 | |
8 | China (CHN) | 0 | 2 | 0 | 2 |
9 | Austria (AUT) | 0 | 0 | 3 | 3 |
Totals (9 entries) | 6 | 6 | 6 | 18 |
Games | Gold | Silver | Bronze |
---|---|---|---|
2020 Tokyo | Alberto Ginés López Spain | Nathaniel Coleman United States | Jakob Schubert Austria |
2024 Paris | Toby Roberts Great Britain | Sorato Anraku Japan | Jakob Schubert Austria |
Games | Gold | Silver | Bronze |
---|---|---|---|
2024 Paris | Veddriq Leonardo Indonesia | Wu Peng China | Sam Watson United States |
Games | Gold | Silver | Bronze |
---|---|---|---|
2020 Tokyo | Janja Garnbret Slovenia | Miho Nonaka Japan | Akiyo Noguchi Japan |
2024 Paris | Janja Garnbret Slovenia | Brooke Raboutou United States | Jessica Pilz Austria |
Games | Gold | Silver | Bronze |
---|---|---|---|
2024 Paris | Aleksandra Mirosław Poland | Deng Lijuan China | Aleksandra Kałucka Poland |
Competition climbing is a form of regulated rock climbing competition held indoors on purpose-built artificial climbing walls. The three competition climbing disciplines are lead climbing, bouldering, and speed climbing. The result of multiple disciplines can be used in a "combined" format to determine an all-round winner. Competition climbing is sometimes called "sport climbing", which is the name given to pre-bolted lead climbing.
Speed climbing is a climbing discipline in which speed is the ultimate goal. Speed climbing is done on rocks, walls and poles and is only recommended for highly skilled and experienced climbers.
The International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) is the international governing body for the sport of competition climbing, which consists of the disciplines lead climbing, bouldering, and speed climbing.
The IFSC Climbing World Championships are the biennial world championship event for competition climbing that is organized by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC). This event determines the male and female world champions in the three disciplines of competition climbing: competition lead climbing, competition bouldering, and competition speed climbing. Since 2012, a combined ranking is also determined, for climbers competing in all disciplines, and additional medals are awarded based on that ranking. The first event was organized in Frankfurt in 1991.
USA Climbing is the national governing body of the sport of competition climbing in the United States. As a 501(c)3 non-profit, they promote Sport Climbing which comprises three competition disciplines: bouldering, lead climbing, and speed climbing, in elite, youth and collegiate formats.
Shauna Coxsey is an English professional rock climber. She is the most successful competition climber in the UK, having won the IFSC Bouldering World Cup Season in both 2016 and 2017. She retired from competition after competing in the 2020 Olympics., and continues to climb at a high level outdoors.
Brooke Raboutou is a French-American professional rock climber who specializes in competition climbing where she competes as part of the US National Team. She won the silver medal in the combined bouldering and lead climbing event at the 2024 Summer Olympics.
Janja Garnbret is a Slovenian professional rock climber who specializes in sport climbing and competition climbing. She has won multiple competition lead climbing and competition bouldering events, two Olympic gold medals, and is widely regarded as the greatest competition climber of all time. In 2021, Garnbret became the first-ever female Olympic gold medalist in climbing, and successfully defended her title in 2024. With two gold medals, she is the most successful Slovenian athlete at the Summer Olympics. She is also the world's first-ever female climber to onsight an 8c (5.14b) graded sport climbing route.
Competition climbing made its Olympic debut at the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo, Japan. Two events were held, one each for men and women. The format controversially consisted of one combined event with three disciplines: lead climbing, speed climbing and bouldering. The medals were determined based on best performance across all three disciplines. This format was previously tested at the 2018 Summer Youth Olympics. The Olympic code for sports climbing is CLB.
Jakob Schubert is an Austrian professional rock climber, specializing in competition climbing, sport climbing, and bouldering. He is a four-time World Champion and three-time World Cup winner in lead climbing. He is a two-time Olympic bronze medalist in the combined event.
Jessica Pilz is an Austrian professional rock climber who specializes in competition climbing. She won the bronze medal in the combined bouldering and lead climbing event at the 2024 Summer Olympics.
Tomoa Narasaki is a Japanese professional rock climber who specializes in bouldering and competition bouldering.
Miho Nonaka is a Japanese competition climber who specializes in competition bouldering. She is an Olympic silver medalist in sport climbing.
The 2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships, the 16th edition, were held in Hachioji, Japan from 11 to 21 August 2019. The championships consisted of lead, speed, bouldering, and combined events. The paraclimbing event was held separately from 16 to 17 July in Briançon, France. The combined event also served as an Olympic qualifying event for the 2020 Summer Olympics.
Aleksandra (Ola) Mirosław is a Polish soldier and competition speed climber. She is a two-time women's speed world champion as well as the current women's competition speed climbing world record holder. Mirosław won the gold medal at the 2024 Summer Olympics in the speed climbing event, becoming the first ever Olympic champion in this event.
Ai Mori is a Japanese professional rock climber who specializes in competition lead climbing and competition bouldering.
The women's combined event at the 2020 Summer Olympics was a climbing competition combining three disciplines. It took place between 4 and 6 August 2021 at the Aomi Urban Sports Park in Tokyo. 20 athletes from 15 nations competed. Sport climbing was one of four new sports added to the Olympic program for 2020.
Seo Chae-hyun, also known as Chaehyun Seo, is a South Korean professional rock climber who specializes in competition climbing. She won the overall 2019 World Cup title in competition lead climbing in her senior debut season. In 2021 she won the IFSC World Championship in lead climbing. Seo is a two-time Olympian, having represented South Korea at the 2020 and 2024 Summer Olympics.
Laura Rogora is an Italian rock climber who specializes in sport climbing and in competition climbing. In 2021, she became the third-ever female climber in history to redpoint a 9b (5.15b)-graded sport climbing route, with her ascent of Erebor in Italy.
Competition climbing at the 2024 Summer Olympics took place from 5 to 10 August at Le Bourget Sport Climbing Venue in Saint-Denis, returning to the program for the second time since the sport's official debut three years earlier in Tokyo 2020. The total number of medal events was doubled from two in the previous edition because the boulder-and-lead tandem had been separated from the speed format. Furthermore, the number of climbers increased from 40 to 68.