Sport climbing at the Summer Olympics

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Sport climbing at the Summer Olympics
Sport climbing pictogram.svg
IOC CodeCLB
Governing body IFSC
Events4 (men: 2; women: 2)
Summer Olympics
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Competitions in the sport of climbing, governed by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC), have been held at two editions of the Summer Olympic Games. First selected as one of the discretionary sports at the 2020 and 2024 games, sport climbing will be inducted as one of the mandatory sports at the 2028 games. Athletes compete in the disciplines of bouldering, lead climbing, and speed climbing. All three were contested as a single event in the 2020 programme, while speed climbing was spun off into its own event in the 2024 programme. Slovenia have won the most gold medals (2), while Austria, Japan, and the United States have won the most medals overall (3 each).

Contents

Bid for inclusion

The inclusion was proposed by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) in 2015. [1] In September 2015, competition climbing was included in a shortlist along with baseball, softball, skateboarding, surfing, and karate to be considered for inclusion in the 2020 Summer Olympics; [2] and in June 2016, the executive board of the International Olympic Committee (IOC) announced that they would support the proposal to include all of the shortlisted sports in the 2020 Games. [3] Finally, on August 3, 2016, all five sports (counting baseball and softball together as one sport) were approved for inclusion in the 2020 Olympic program. [4]

Competition format

At the 2020 Summer Olympics, two climbing events were contested: men's combined and women's combined. The competition format combined three disciplines of competition climbing: competition speed climbing, competition bouldering, and competition lead climbing. This decision caused widespread criticism in the climbing community. [5]

Members of the IFSC explained that they were only granted one gold medal per gender by the Olympic committee, and they did not want to exclude speed climbing. The IFSC's goal for the 2020 Olympics was primarily to establish climbing and its three disciplines as Olympic sports; changes to the format could follow later. This tactic proved to be successful as they were granted a second set of medals for the 2024 Summer Olympics, where speed climbing will be a separate event from the combined event of lead climbing and bouldering. [6] [7] [8]

Technical information

For Olympic level sports climbing, route setters are instructed to set lead climbs at a grade of between 8c  (5.14b) and 9a  (5.14d) for both the men's and women's events. For boulder, men's routes are set between a grade of V10  (7C+) and V14  (8B+), and women's routes between V9  (7C) and V12  (8A+). [9] [10]

NB:

Summary

GamesEventsBest nations
2020 Summer Olympics 2 Flag of Spain.svg  Spain (1)
Civil Ensign of Slovenia.svg  Slovenia (1)
2024 Summer Olympics 4 Flag of Poland.svg  Poland (1)

Events

Current program
Event 2020 2024 Years
Men's combined (s, b, l) X 1
Men's combined (b, l) X 1
Men's speed X 1
Women's combined (s, b, l) X 1
Men's combined (b, l) X 1
Women's speed X 1
Events24

Participating nations

The following nations have taken part in the Olympic climbing competition. The numbers in the table indicate the number of competitors sent to that year's Olympics.

Nation 2020 2024 Years
Flag of Australia.svg  Australia 222
Flag of Austria.svg  Austria 222
Flag of Belgium (civil).svg  Belgium 11
Flag of Canada (Pantone).svg  Canada 21
Flag of the People's Republic of China.svg  China 272
Flag of the Czech Republic.svg  Czech Republic 112
Flag of France.svg  France 472
Flag of Germany.svg  Germany 232
Flag of the United Kingdom.svg  Great Britain 142
Flag of Indonesia.svg  Indonesia 41
Flag of Iran.svg  Iran 11
Flag of Italy.svg  Italy 342
Flag of Japan.svg  Japan 442
Flag of Kazakhstan.svg  Kazakhstan 112
Flag of New Zealand.svg  New Zealand 21
Flag of Poland.svg  Poland 122
Russian Olympic Committee flag.png  ROC 31
Flag of Slovenia.svg  Slovenia 232
Flag of South Africa.svg  South Africa 242
Flag of South Korea.svg  South Korea 232
Flag of Spain.svg  Spain 122
Flag of Switzerland.svg  Switzerland 112
Flag of Ukraine.svg  Ukraine 21
Flag of the United States.svg  United States 482
Nations192224
Climbers4068
Year 2020 2024 2

    Olympic records history

    EventRoundClimberNationTimeGamesDateRecord
    Men's combined (speed)Qualification Bassa Mawem Flag of France.svg  France 5.45 2020 Tokyo 3 August 2021 OR [11]
    Women's combined (speed)Qualification Aleksandra Mirosław Flag of Poland.svg  Poland 6.974 August 2021 OR [12]
    Final Aleksandra Mirosław Flag of Poland.svg  Poland 6.846 August 2021 WR [13]
    Women's speed Qualification Aleksandra Mirosław Flag of Poland.svg  Poland 6.06 2024 Paris 5 August 2024 WR [14]
    Men's speed Bronze medal match Sam Watson Flag of the United States.svg  United States 4.748 August 2024 WR

    Medal table

    As of the women's combined event of 2024 Olympics [15]
    RankNationGoldSilverBronzeTotal
    1Flag of Slovenia.svg  Slovenia  (SLO)2002
    2Flag of Poland.svg  Poland  (POL)1012
    3Flag of the United Kingdom.svg  Great Britain  (GBR)1001
    Flag of Indonesia.svg  Indonesia  (INA)1001
    Flag of Spain.svg  Spain  (ESP)1001
    6Flag of Japan.svg  Japan  (JPN)0213
    Flag of the United States.svg  United States  (USA)0213
    8Flag of the People's Republic of China.svg  China  (CHN)0202
    9Flag of Austria.svg  Austria  (AUT)0033
    Totals (9 entries)66618

    Medalists

    Men's combined

    GamesGoldSilverBronze
    2020 Tokyo
    details
    Alberto Ginés López
    Flag of Spain.svg  Spain
    Nathaniel Coleman
    Flag of the United States.svg  United States
    Jakob Schubert
    Flag of Austria.svg  Austria
    2024 Paris
    details
    Toby Roberts
    Flag of the United Kingdom (3-2).svg  Great Britain
    Sorato Anraku
    Flag of Japan.svg  Japan
    Jakob Schubert
    Flag of Austria.svg  Austria

    Men's speed

    GamesGoldSilverBronze
    2024 Paris
    details
    Veddriq Leonardo
    Flag of Indonesia.svg  Indonesia
    Wu Peng
    Flag of the People's Republic of China.svg  China
    Sam Watson
    Flag of the United States.svg  United States

    Women's combined

    GamesGoldSilverBronze
    2020 Tokyo
    details
    Janja Garnbret
    Civil Ensign of Slovenia.svg  Slovenia
    Miho Nonaka
    Flag of Japan.svg  Japan
    Akiyo Noguchi
    Flag of Japan.svg  Japan
    2024 Paris
    details
    Janja Garnbret
    Civil Ensign of Slovenia.svg  Slovenia
    Brooke Raboutou
    Flag of the United States.svg  United States
    Jessica Pilz
    Flag of Austria.svg  Austria

    Women’s speed

    GamesGoldSilverBronze
    2024 Paris
    details
    Aleksandra Mirosław
    Flag of Poland.svg  Poland
    Deng Lijuan
    Flag of the People's Republic of China.svg  China
    Aleksandra Kałucka
    Flag of Poland.svg  Poland

    See also

    Related Research Articles

    <span class="mw-page-title-main">Competition climbing</span> Competitive rock climbing

    Competition climbing is a form of regulated rock climbing competition held indoors on purpose-built artificial climbing walls. The three competition climbing disciplines are lead climbing, bouldering, and speed climbing. The result of multiple disciplines can be used in a "combined" format to determine an all-round winner. Competition climbing is sometimes called "sport climbing", which is the name given to pre-bolted lead climbing.

    <span class="mw-page-title-main">Speed climbing</span> Type of climbing

    Speed climbing is a climbing discipline in which speed is the ultimate goal. Speed climbing is done on rocks, walls and poles and is only recommended for highly skilled and experienced climbers.

    <span class="mw-page-title-main">International Federation of Sport Climbing</span> Govering body for competition climbing

    The International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) is the international governing body for the sport of competition climbing, which consists of the disciplines lead climbing, bouldering, and speed climbing.

    The IFSC Climbing World Championships are the biennial world championship event for competition climbing that is organized by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC). This event determines the male and female world champions in the three disciplines of competition climbing: competition lead climbing, competition bouldering, and competition speed climbing. Since 2012, a combined ranking is also determined, for climbers competing in all disciplines, and additional medals are awarded based on that ranking. The first event was organized in Frankfurt in 1991.

    USA Climbing is the national governing body of the sport of competition climbing in the United States. As a 501(c)3 non-profit, they promote Sport Climbing which comprises three competition disciplines: bouldering, lead climbing, and speed climbing, in elite, youth and collegiate formats.

    <span class="mw-page-title-main">Shauna Coxsey</span> English rock climber

    Shauna Coxsey is an English professional rock climber. She is the most successful competition climber in the UK, having won the IFSC Bouldering World Cup Season in both 2016 and 2017. She retired from competition after competing in the 2020 Olympics., and continues to climb at a high level outdoors.

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    Brooke Raboutou is a French-American professional rock climber who specializes in competition climbing where she competes as part of the US National Team. She won the silver medal in the combined bouldering and lead climbing event at the 2024 Summer Olympics.

    <span class="mw-page-title-main">Janja Garnbret</span> Slovenian rock climber

    Janja Garnbret is a Slovenian professional rock climber who specializes in sport climbing and competition climbing. She has won multiple competition lead climbing and competition bouldering events, two Olympic gold medals, and is widely regarded as the greatest competition climber of all time. In 2021, Garnbret became the first-ever female Olympic gold medalist in climbing, and successfully defended her title in 2024. With two gold medals, she is the most successful Slovenian athlete at the Summer Olympics. She is also the world's first-ever female climber to onsight an 8c (5.14b) graded sport climbing route.

    <span class="mw-page-title-main">Sport climbing at the 2020 Summer Olympics</span> Sport climbing events at the 2020 Summer Olympics

    Competition climbing made its Olympic debut at the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo, Japan. Two events were held, one each for men and women. The format controversially consisted of one combined event with three disciplines: lead climbing, speed climbing and bouldering. The medals were determined based on best performance across all three disciplines. This format was previously tested at the 2018 Summer Youth Olympics. The Olympic code for sports climbing is CLB.

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    <span class="mw-page-title-main">Ai Mori</span> Japanese rock climber (born 2003)

    Ai Mori is a Japanese professional rock climber who specializes in competition climbing and the disciplines of competition lead climbing and competition bouldering. At the 2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships, she became the youngest Japanese athlete to finish in a podium place in the competition, third in lead. She has won Japan Cup titles in both bouldering and lead disciplines and has multiple IFSC Climbing World Cup podium finishes, including three gold medals in World Cup events in the 2022 season. At the 2023 IFSC Climbing World Championships, Mori won the gold medal in lead, becoming the first Japanese athlete to win a World Championships lead title.

    <span class="mw-page-title-main">Sport climbing at the 2020 Summer Olympics – Women's combined</span> Womens combined events at the Olympics

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    <span class="mw-page-title-main">Sport climbing at the 2024 Summer Olympics</span>

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