Competition structure
Elite
Any eligible climber aged 16 and older who meets the USAC qualification criteria may compete at Elite Nationals. There are no Regional or Divisional competitions for Elite competitors. The winners in each gender/event (Lead, Speed, and Bouldering) at Elite Nationals are recognized as the National Champions of the United States. However, a non-US citizen cannot be the National Champion of the US. If a non-US citizen wins any gender/event, the next highest-placed US citizen in that gender/event is declared the National Champion.
Youth
Youth climbers are subdivided into 5 age groups. As of the 2024-25 season, USA Climbing no longer categorizes youth athletes using the Jr, A, B, C, D system. The age ranges are based on how old the competitor will be by the end of the season, not their current age:
- U20 (19 years old)
- U19 (17-18 years old)
- U17 (15-16 years old)
- U15 (13-14 years old)
- U13 (≤12 years old)
The US is subdivided into 9 Divisions and 18 Regions. [7] Anyone may compete in local competitions. USA Climbing members, who have attended at least two local competitions and place in the top 26 in their region, may compete at their respective Regional Championships. [8] The top 10 competitors in each gender/category at Regionals receive an invitation to compete at their respective Divisional Championships. The top 6 competitors in each gender/category at the Divisional Championships receive an invitation to compete at the National Championships. [7] The top four climbers in each gender/category/event at the National Championships are considered to be the U.S. Youth National Team. Youth on the National Teams for Junior, A and B are eligible to compete at the Youth Pan American and Youth World Championships.
Collegiate
Provides access for undergraduate or graduate students that are currently enrolled at a college or university to compete in bouldering, lead and speed climbing. [9]
Adaptive
Adaptive provides access for athletes with physical disabilities to compete in both bouldering and lead/top rope climbing. [10]
Categories included in Adaptive are open to those with physical disabilities: Neurological / Physical Disability, Visual Impairment, Upper Extremity Amputee, Lower Extremity, Amputee, Seated, Youth. [10]
Elite speed
Starting with the 2021 Speed National Championships, the US competition format was changed to match the IFSC speed climbing competition format. Prior to 2021, US Speed Climbing National Champions (and final ranking placements) were determined by the fastest climber to finish the speed route. As of 2021, US Speed National Champions were determined by the winners of the IFSC knockout format.
Current US speed climbing records
Starting in 2023, USA Climbing adopted the same criteria as the Elite category to officially recognize Speed climbing records for Youth age groups. One key criterion is the use of an officially recognized electronic timing system. Historically, youth records were maintained for developmental purposes without official standards. Now, official Youth speed climbing records can only be set at specific events: USAC Youth Qualifying Events, USAC Youth Regional Championships, USAC Youth Divisional Championships, USAC Youth National Championships, IFSC Youth Pan American Championships, IFSC Youth World Championships, and other USAC or IFSC sanctioned events in which youth age groups compete. Records are not kept for youth age groups C and D because the speed climbing routes vary at each competition.
| Men's | 15 meter | | 10 meter | |
|---|
| Time (seconds) | Athlete | Time (seconds) | Athlete |
| Elite | 4.74 | Sam Watson [57] | 3.95 | John Brosler [51] |
| Junior | 5.75 | Logan Minor [58] | 4.03 | Noah Bratschi [59] |
| Youth A | 5.32 | Zach Hammer [60] | 4.34 | John Brosler [61] |
| Youth B | 6.18 | Sam Watson [62] | 5.03 | Michael Retoff [63] |
| Women's | 15 meter | | 10 meter | |
|---|
| Time (seconds) | Athlete | Time (seconds) | Athlete |
| Elite | 6.38 | Emma Hunt [64] | 5.64 | Claire Buhrfeind |
| Junior | 7.55 | Emma Hunt [62] | 5.80 | Piper Kelly [59] |
| Youth A | 7.84 | Sophia Curcio [65] | 5.88 | Grace McKeehan [66] |
| Youth B | 7.96 | Jojo Chi [60] | 6.33 | Sidney Trinidad [67] |
History of the US speed climbing record
Beginning in 2019, USA Climbing established specific criteria for setting official National Records in the Elite Speed Climbing category. As such, the National Records below for the Elite category have been officially recognized by USA Climbing.
Men's National Record History| Date | Time (s) | Athlete | Location | Competition |
|---|
| April 28, 2023 | 5.02 [68] | Sam Watson | Seoul, South Korea | 2023 IFSC World Cup |
| May 20, 2022 | 5.20 [69] | John Brosler | Salt Lake City, Utah | 2022 IFSC World Cup |
| May 28, 2021 | 5.60 [70] | John Brosler | Salt Lake City, Utah | 2021 IFSC World Cup |
| March 28, 2021 | 5.62 [68] | John Brosler | Memphis, Tennessee | USA Climbing Team Trials Invitational |
| March 28, 2021 | 5.85 [68] | Noah Bratschi | Memphis, Tennessee | USA Climbing Team Trials Invitational |
| January 20, 2019 | 5.99 [71] | John Brosler | Salt Lake City, Utah | USA Climbing Combined Invitational |
Women's National Record History| Date | Time (s) | Athlete | Location | Competition |
|---|
| August 10, 2023 | 6.67 [72] | Emma Hunt | Bern, Switzerland | 2023 IFSC World Championships |
| July 2, 2023 | 6.68 [73] | Emma Hunt | Villars, Switzerland | 2023 IFSC World Cup |
| May 7, 2023 | 6.79 [74] | Emma Hunt | Jakarta, Indonesia | 2023 IFSC World Cup |
| April 28, 2023 | 6.82 [75] | Emma Hunt | Seoul, Korea | 2023 IFSC World Cup |
| Sept 10, 2022 | 6.84 [76] | Emma Hunt | Edinburgh, Scotland | 2022 IFSC World Cup |
| July 2, 2021 | 7.19 [77] | Emma Hunt | Villars, Switzerland | 2021 IFSC World Cup |
| July 2, 2021 | 7.43 [77] | Emma Hunt | Villars, Switzerland | 2021 IFSC World Cup |
| May 28, 2021 | 7.52 [78] | Emma Hunt | Salt Lake City, Utah | 2021 IFSC World Cup |
| March 29, 2021 | 7.56 [68] | Emma Hunt | Memphis, Tennessee | USA Climbing Team Trials Invitational |
| March 29, 2021 | 7.76 [68] | Emma Hunt | Memphis, Tennessee | USA Climbing Team Trials Invitational |
| March 29, 2021 | 7.95 [68] | Emma Hunt | Memphis, Tennessee | USA Climbing Team Trials Invitational |
| March 28, 2021 | 8.04 [68] | Emma Hunt | Memphis, Tennessee | USA Climbing Team Trials Invitational |
| March 1, 2020 | 8.05 [79] | Emma Hunt | Los Angeles, California | IFSC Pan American Championships |
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