Formation | 1 January 1988 |
---|---|
Type | 501(c)3 non-profit sports federation |
Headquarters | Salt Lake City, Utah |
President | Kate Felsen Di Pietro |
Website | USA Climbing |
USA Climbing is the national governing body of the sport of competition climbing in the United States. [1] It promotes competition climbing in the United States in the disciplines of bouldering, lead climbing, and speed climbing, in elite, youth and collegiate formats. USA Climbing is recognized by the International Federation for Sport Climbing (IFSC), [2] the International Olympic Committee (IOC), [3] and the United States Olympic & Paralympic Committee (USOPC) [4] [1]
Below is a brief timeline of American competition climbing history: [5]
Any eligible climber aged 16 and older that meets the USAC qualification criteria may compete at Elite Nationals. There are no Regional or Divisional competitions for Elite competitors. The winners in each gender/event (Lead, Speed and Bouldering) at Elite Nationals are considered the National Champions of the United States. The only caveat is that a foreign national cannot be the National Champion of the US. If a foreign national wins any gender/event the next highest placed citizen of the US in that gender/event is the National Champion.
Youth climbers are subdivided into 5 age groups:
The US is subdivided into 8 Divisions and 16 Regions. [7] Anyone may compete in local competitions. USA Climbing members, who have attended at least two local competitions, may compete at Regionals. [8] The top 10 competitors in each gender/category at Regionals receive an invitation to Divisionals. The top 6 competitors in each gender/category at Divisionals receive an invitation to Nationals. [7] The top four climbers in each gender/category/event at Nationals are considered to be the U.S. Youth National Team. Youth on the National Teams for Junior, A and B are given the opportunity to compete at the Youth Pan American and Youth World Championships.
Provides access for undergraduate or graduate students that are currently enrolled at a college or university to compete in bouldering, lead and speed climbing. [9]
Adaptive provides access for athletes with physical disabilities to compete in both bouldering and lead/top rope climbing. [10]
Categories included in Adaptive are open to those with physical disabilities: Neurological / Physical Disability, Visual Impairment, Upper Extremity Amputee, Lower Extremity, Amputee, Seated, Youth. [10]
The following are the results for bouldering at Elite National Championship level. [11]
Year | Gold | Silver | Bronze |
---|---|---|---|
2005 [12] | Daniel Woods | Mike Feinberg | Matt Segal |
2006 [12] | Daniel Woods | Ethan Pringle | Nicholas Sherman |
2007 [13] | Daniel Woods | Paul Robinson | Sean McColl |
2008 [14] | Paul Robinson | Chris Sharma | Sean McColl |
2009 [15] | Daniel Woods | Paul Robinson | Sean McColl |
2010 [16] | Daniel Woods | Matt Bosley | Robert D'Anastasio |
2011 [17] | Sean McColl | Alex Johnson | Kyle Owen |
2012 [18] | Daniel Woods | Ethan Pringle | Michael Bautista |
2013 [19] | Daniel Woods | Ian Dory | Vasya Vorotnikov |
2014 [20] | Daniel Woods | Vasya Vorotnikov | Andy Lamb |
2015 [21] | Mohammad Jafari Mahmodabadi | Daniel Woods | Michael O'Rourke |
2016 [22] | Nathaniel Coleman | Jimmy Webb | Carlo Traversi |
2017 [23] | Nathaniel Coleman | Kai Lightner | Alexey Rubtsov |
2018 [24] | Nathaniel Coleman | Sean Bailey | Drew Ruana |
2019 [25] | Sean Bailey | Nathaniel Coleman | Drew Ruana |
2020 [26] | Nathaniel Coleman | Sean Bailey | Ben Hanna |
2021 [27] | Colin Duffy | Ben Hanna | Zach Galla |
2022 [28] | Dillon Countryman | Sean Bailey | Luke Muehring |
The following are the results for lead at Elite National Championship level [11]
Year | Gold | Silver | Bronze |
---|---|---|---|
2004 [33] | Vadim Vinokur | Ethan Pringle | Ionel Ene |
2005 [34] | Ethan Pringle | Vadim Vinokur | Daniel Woods |
2006 [35] | Daniel Woods | Vasya Vorotnikov | Gabor Szekely |
2007 | ? | ? | ? |
2008 | Chris Sharma | Jon Cardwell | Dave Graham |
2009 [36] | Carlo Traversi | Dave Graham | Ethan Pringle |
2010 [37] | Magnus Midtbo | Daniel Woods | Matty Hong |
2011 [38] | Magnus Midtbo | Carlo Traversi | Matty Hong |
2012 | Vasya Vorotnikov | Dylan Barks | Daniel Woods |
2013 | Daniel Woods | Carlo Traversi | Noah Ridge |
2014 | Brad Weaver | Noah Ridge | Robert D'Anastasio |
2015 [39] | Kai Lightner | Jesse Grupper | Matty Hong |
2016 [40] | Sean Bailey | Kai Lightner | Ben Tresco |
2017 [41] | Kai Lightner | Jesse Grupper | Drew Ruana |
2018 [42] | Sean Bailey | Drew Ruana | Solomon Barth |
2019 [43] | Jesse Grupper | Zander Waller | Solomon Barth |
2020 | Not held | n/a | n/a |
2021 [27] | Jesse Grupper | Colin Duffy | Nathaniel Coleman |
Year | Gold | Silver | Bronze |
---|---|---|---|
2004 [33] | Emily Harrington | Lizzy Asher | Elizabeth Broun |
2005 [34] | Emily Harrington | Elizabeth Broun | Lizzy Asher |
2006 [35] | Emily Harrington | Andrea Szekely | Mykael-Ann McGinley |
2007 | ? | ? | ? |
2008 | Emily Harrington | Paige Claassen | Tiffany Hensley |
2009 [36] | Emily Harrington | Paige Claassen | Sasha DiGiulian |
2010 [37] | Sasha DiGiulian | Lauren Lee | Paige Claassen |
2011 [38] | Sasha DiGiulian | Paige Claassen | Dana Riddle |
2012 | Sasha DiGiulian | Delaney Miller | Michaela Kiersch |
2013 | Charlotte Durif | Delaney Miller | Chelsea Rude |
2014 | Delaney Miller | Sasha DiGiulian | Claire Buhrfeind |
2015 [44] | Delaney Miller | Margo Hayes | Claire Buhrfeind |
2016 [40] | Margo Hayes | Grace McKeehan | Michaela Kiersch |
2017 [41] | Ashima Shiraishi | Margo Hayes | Brooke Raboutou |
2018 [42] | Claire Buhrfeind | Michaela Kiersch | Alex Puccio |
2019 [43] | Margo Hayes | Ashima Shiraishi | Katherine Lamb |
2020 | Not held | n/a | n/a |
2021 [27] | Quinn Mason | Melina Costanza | Kyra Condie |
2022 [45] | Anastasia Sanders | Quinn Mason | Kyra Condie |
Starting with the 2021 Speed National Championships, the US competition format was changed to match the IFSC speed climbing competition format. Prior to 2021, US Speed Climbing National Champions (and final ranking placements) were determined by the fastest climber to finish the speed route. As of 2021, US Speed National Champions were determined by the winners of the IFSC knockout format.
Year | Gold | Silver | Bronze |
---|---|---|---|
2004 [33] | Patrick Cassiday | Brian Solano | Ethan Pringle |
2005 [34] | Hans Florine | Patrick Cassiday | Brett Ashton |
2006 [35] | Patrick Cassiday | Vadim Vinokur | Eric Cosman |
2007 | |||
2008 | Ryan Roden | Brian Furciniti | Daniel Duran |
2009 | Ryan Roden | Nic Sutton | Michael Perry |
2010 | Eric Sanchez | Nic Sutton | Joshua Levin |
2011 | Alex Johnson | Joshua Levin | Mark Puccio |
2012 | Alex Johnson | Joshua Levin | Charlie Andrews-Jubelt |
2013 | Joshua Levin | Dominic LaBarge | Thomas Pitzel |
2014 [46] | John Brosler | Stanislav Kokorin | Ryan Strickland |
2015 [47] | Libor Hroza | John Brosler | Michael Retoff |
2016 [40] | Libor Hroza | John Brosler | Max Hammer |
2017 [48] | John Brosler | Libor Hroza | Max Hammer |
2018 [42] | John Brosler | Jordan Fishman | Max Hammer |
2019 [43] | John Brosler | Noah Bratschi | Joe Goodacre |
2020 | Not held | n/a | n/a |
2021 [49] | Joe Goodacre | Rafe Stokes | Micah Liss |
2022 [50] | Sam Watson | Merritt Ernsberger | Noah Bratschi |
Year | Gold | Silver | Bronze |
---|---|---|---|
2004 | Mykael-Ann McGinley | Audrey Gawrych | Emily Harrington |
2005 | Mykael-Ann McGinley | Stephanie Outland | Josie McKee |
2006 | Mykael-Ann McGinley | Jayme Hatch | Stephanie Outland |
2007 | |||
2008 | Tiffany Hensley | Amanda Sutton | Stephanie Outland |
2009 | Amanda Sutton | Mykael-Ann McGinley | Tiffany Hensley |
2010 | Shannon Lochridge | Amanda Sutton | Taylor Mitchell |
2011 | Dana Riddle | Amanda Sutton | Delaney Miller |
2012 | Danielle Rogan | Jacquelyn Wu | Kyra Condie |
2013 | Kyra Condie | Kayla Lieuw | Marissa Romero |
2014 | Megan Carr | Danielle Rogan | Jacquelyn Wu |
2015 | Sidney Trinidad | Grace Mckeehan | Kyra Condie |
2016 | Claire Buhrfeind | Sidney Trinidad | Erica Meister |
2017 | Claire Buhrfeind | Amanda Wooten | Grace McKeehan |
2018 | Claire Buhrfeind | Piper Kelly | Amanda Wooten |
2019 | Emma Hunt | Piper Kelly | Sienna Kopf |
2020 | Not held | n/a | n/a |
2021 [51] | Callie Close | Emma Hunt | Piper Kelly |
2022 [52] | Callie Close | Piper Kelly | Sophia Curcio |
USA Climbing recognizes official speed climbing time records in the Elite category only. Speed climbing records for the Youth age group categories are kept for developmental purposes and Youth age group records have had no official wall requirements or competition standards. Unofficial Youth speed climbing records can only be set at USAC Youth Qualifying Events, USAC Youth Regional Championships, USAC Youth Divisional Championships, USAC Youth National Championships, IFSC Youth Pan American Championships, and IFSC Youth World Championships, and other USAC or IFSC Youth-sanctioned events where age groups are contested. No records are kept for Youth age groups C and D since the speed climbing routes are different at every competition.
Men's | 15 meter | 10 meter | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
Time (seconds) | Athlete | Time (seconds) | Athlete | |
Elite | 5.20 | John Brosler [53] | 3.95 | John Brosler [46] |
Junior | 5.86 | Micah Liss [54] | 4.03 | Noah Bratschi [55] |
Youth A | 5.37 | Sam Watson [56] | 4.34 | John Brosler [57] |
Youth B | 6.18 | Sam Watson [58] | 5.03 | Michael Retoff [59] |
Women's | 15 meter | 10 meter | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
Time (seconds) | Athlete | Time (seconds) | Athlete | |
Elite | 7.19 | Emma Hunt [60] | 5.64 | Claire Buhrfeind |
Junior | 7.55 | Emma Hunt [58] | 5.80 | Piper Kelly [55] |
Youth A | 8.02 | Callie Close [58] | 5.88 | Grace McKeehan [61] |
Youth B | 8.55 | Callie Close [62] | 6.33 | Sidney Trinidad [63] |
Beginning in 2019, USA Climbing established specific criteria for setting official National Records in the Elite Speed Climbing category. As such, the National Records below for the Elite category have been officially recognized by USA Climbing.
Date | Time (s) | Athlete | Location | Competition |
---|---|---|---|---|
May 20, 2022 | 5.20 [64] | John Brosler | Salt Lake City, Utah | 2022 IFSC Climbing World Cup |
May 28, 2021 | 5.60 [65] | John Brosler | Salt Lake City, Utah | 2021 IFSC Climbing World Cup |
March 28, 2021 | 5.62 [66] | John Brosler | Memphis, Tennessee | USA Climbing Team Trials Invitational |
March 28, 2021 | 5.85 [66] | Noah Bratschi | Memphis, Tennessee | USA Climbing Team Trials Invitational |
January 20, 2019 | 5.99 [67] | John Brosler | Salt Lake City, Utah | USA Climbing Combined Invitational |
Date | Time (s) | Athlete | Location | Competition |
---|---|---|---|---|
July 2, 2021 | 7.19 [60] | Emma Hunt | Villars, Switzerland | 2021 IFSC Climbing World Cup |
July 2, 2021 | 7.43 [60] | Emma Hunt | Villars, Switzerland | 2021 IFSC Climbing World Cup |
May 28, 2021 | 7.52 [53] | Emma Hunt | Salt Lake City, Utah | 2021 IFSC Climbing World Cup |
March 29, 2021 | 7.56 [66] | Emma Hunt | Memphis, Tennessee | USA Climbing Team Trials Invitational |
March 29, 2021 | 7.76 [66] | Emma Hunt | Memphis, Tennessee | USA Climbing Team Trials Invitational |
March 29, 2021 | 7.95 [66] | Emma Hunt | Memphis, Tennessee | USA Climbing Team Trials Invitational |
March 28, 2021 | 8.04 [66] | Emma Hunt | Memphis, Tennessee | USA Climbing Team Trials Invitational |
March 1, 2020 | 8.05 [68] | Emma Hunt | Los Angeles, California | IFSC Pan American Championships |
The athletes who represent the United States in International competition events. [69]
2021 - The athletes who represented the United States at International competition events in 2021. [70]
Year | Gold | Silver | Bronze |
---|---|---|---|
2011 | Alex Johnson | Griffin Whiteside | Mishael Beyer |
2012 | Michael O'Rourke | Alex Fritz | Joseph Gifford |
2013 | Josh Levin | Greig Seitz | Noah Ridge |
2014 | Sean Bailey | Dominic LaBarge | Nicholas Milburn |
2015 | Nathaniel Coleman | Joseph Diaz | Dalton Bunker |
2016 | Nathaniel Coleman | Jesse Grupper | Charles Barron |
2017 | Kai Lightner | Drew Ruana | Brett Walker |
2018 | Zach Galla | Bobby Taft-Pittman | Drew Ruana |
2019 | Elijah Kiser | Sam McQueen | Zach Galla |
2020 | Ross Fulkerson | Noah Wheeler | Clay Gordon |
2021 [71] | Zander Waller | Theo Massenat | Noah Wheeler |
Year | Gold | Silver | Bronze |
---|---|---|---|
2011 | Nicholas Picarella | Daniel Berman | Liam Vence |
2012 | Nathaniel Coleman | Brendan Mitchell | Shawn Raboutou |
2013 | Sam Kim | Culin Li | Shawn Raboutou |
2014 | Kai Lightner | Lucas Kepl | Brett Walker |
2015 | Matthew Grossman | Joe Goodacre | Zach Galla |
2016 | Corbin Miley | Devon Wong | Clay Gordon |
2017 | Colin Duffy | Zander Waller | Dylan Duregger |
2018 | Anthony Lesik | Colin Duffy | Zander Waller |
2019 | Brian Squire | Oliver Kuang | Reece Chapman |
2020 | Oscar Baudrand | Ian Tan | Dillon Countryman |
2021 [71] | Auggie Chi | Declan Osgood | Dillon Countryman |
Year | Gold | Silver | Bronze |
---|---|---|---|
2011 | Sam Kim | Kai Lightner | Charles Barron |
2012 | Kai Lightner | Jake Fields | Gavin Dixon |
2013 | Mirko Caballero | Matthew Grossman | Clay Gordon |
2014 | Mirko Caballero | Dylan Duregger | Corbin Miley |
2015 | Innis Gallagher | Noah Wheeler | Domingo Jones |
2016 | Elliot Wiecek | Colin Duffy | Anthony Lesik |
2017 | Lucas Oddi | Quinn O'Francia | Jack Felix |
2018 | Brody Rexroad | Ty Picker | Oscar Baudrand |
2019 | Hugo Hoyer | Lucas Tillery | Zachary Hammer |
2020 | Auggie Chi | Lucas Tillery | Declan Osgood |
2021 [71] | Cruz Padilla | Landers Gaydosh | James Burt |
Year | Gold | Silver | Bronze |
---|---|---|---|
2004 [72] | Zeb Engberg | Alex Honnold | Zach Levitt |
2005 [73] | Zeb Engberg | Paul Wallace | Daniel Mills |
2012 | Owen Graham | Shane Puccio | Andy Lamb |
2013 [74] | Dylan Barks | Josh Levin | Dominic Labarge |
2014 [75] | Sean Bailey | Ben Isaac Tresco | Dominic Labarge |
2015 [76] | Nathaniel Coleman | Sean Bailey | Ben Isaac Tresco |
2016 [77] | Brian Huang | Nathaniel Coleman | Jesse Grupper |
2017 | Drew Ruana | Sean Bailey | Ben Isaac Tresco |
2018 | Bobby Taft-Pittman | Zach Galla | John Brock |
2019 | Stefan Fellner | Clay Gordon | Derek New |
2020 | Not held | n/a | n/a |
2021 [71] | Connor Herson | Zander Waller | Cody Stevenson |
Year | Gold | Silver | Bronze |
---|---|---|---|
2004 [72] | Alice Braginsky | Sydney McNair | Jessa Goebel |
2005 [73] | Chelsea Rude | Sarah Broun | Sydney McNair |
2012 | Michaela Kiersch | Cicada Jenerik | Shannon Lochridge |
2013 [78] | Delaney Miller | Michaela Kiersch | Alexa Nazarian |
2014 [79] | Delaney Miller | Kyra Condie | Zoe Steinberg |
2015 [76] | Kyra Condie | Samantha Scharenberg | Victoria Clarke |
2016 [77] | Margo Hayes | Grace McKeehan | Claire Buhrfiend |
2017 | Claire Buhrfiend | Tori Perkins | Melina Costanza |
2018 | Melina Costanza | Bimini Horstmann | Maya Madere |
2019 | Natalia Grossman | Lauren Bair | Jenny Jiang |
2020 | Not held | n/a | n/a |
2021 [71] | Quinn Mason | Jillian Gerlitz | Emily Herdic |
Year | Gold | Silver | Bronze |
---|---|---|---|
2004 [72] | Paul Wallace | Patrick Luther | Zach Lerner |
2005 [73] | Daniel Woods | Jon Cardwell | Carlo Traversi |
2013 [74] | Nicholas Bradley | Sean Bailey | Connor Everton |
2014 [80] | Jesse Grupper | Solomon Barth | Nicholas Bradley |
2015 [76] | Rudolph Ruana | Benjamin Hanna | Kai Lightner |
2016 [77] | Bobby Taft-Pittman | Joseph Catama | Lucas Kepl |
2017 | Ross Fulkerson | Zach Galla | Stefan Fellner |
2018 | Clay Gordon | Ross Fulkerson | Stefan Fellner |
2019 | Colin Duffy | Zander Waller | Conor Herson |
2020 | Not held | n/a | n/a |
2021 [71] | Gavin Albright | Graham Owens | Sergey Lakhno |
Year | Gold | Silver | Bronze |
---|---|---|---|
2004 [72] | Kasia Pietras | Stephanie Outland | Victoria Guido |
2005 [73] | Sierra Crane | Alex Johnson | Kasia Pietras |
2013 [78] | Kyra Condie | Chloe Laberge | Samantha Scharenberg |
2014 [81] | Margarita Marsanova | Grace Mckeehan | Margo Hayes |
2015 [76] | Margo Hayes | Claire Buhrfeind | Melina Costanza |
2016 [77] | Bimini Horstmann | Sidney Trinidad | Melina Costanza |
2017 | Ashima Shiraishi | Jenny Jiang | Isabel Barrientos |
2018 | Emma Palmer | Natalia Grossman | Sienna Kopf |
2019 | Emma Grace Lehmann | Quinn Mason | Emily Herdic |
2020 | Not held | n/a | n/a |
2021 [71] | Norah Chi | Sophia Hoermann | Callie Close |
Year | Gold | Silver | Bronze |
---|---|---|---|
2004 [72] | Daniel Woods | Jon Cardwell | Andrew Rothner |
2005 [73] | Grady Bagwell | Brian Antheunisse | Matt Fultz |
2013 [74] | Kai Lightner | Rudolph Ruana | Benjamin Hanna |
2014 [82] | Kai Lightner | Rudolph Ruana | Emmanuel Quintana |
2015 [76] | Clay Gordon | Devin Wong | Lucas Kepl |
2016 [77] | Devin Hammonds | Ross Fulkerson | Clay Gordon |
2017 | Colin Duffy | Connor Herson | Zander Waller |
2018 | Connor Herson | Colin Duffy | Zander Waller |
2019 | Lucas Oddi | Oliver Kuang | Leo Costanza |
2020 | Not held | n/a | n/a |
2021 [71] | Hugo Hoyer | Dillon Countryman | Declan Osgood |
Year | Gold | Silver | Bronze |
---|---|---|---|
2004 [72] | Autumn Duke | Elizabeth Broun | Meagan Martin |
2005 [73] | Tiffany Hensley | Marah Bragdon | Paige Claassen |
2013 [78] | Claire Buhrfeind | Margo Hayes | Margarita Marsanova |
2014 [83] | Sidney Trinidad | Melina Costanza | Bimini Horstmann |
2015 [76] | Ashima Shiraishi | Brooke Raboutou | Lauren Bair |
2016 [77] | Ashima Shiraishi | Brooke Raboutou | Sami Singleton |
2017 | Sami Singleton | Dinah Marcuson | Allie Nishi |
2018 | Alex Plotnikoff | Matti Dennis | Elle McDonald |
2019 | Norah Chi | Olivia Ma | Matti Dennis |
2020 | Not held | n/a | n/a |
2021 [71] | Anastasia Sanders | Ella Fisher | Joselyn Toyoda |
Year | Gold | Silver | Bronze |
---|---|---|---|
2004 [72] | Matt Fultz | Brian Anthenisse | Benjamin Hoberg |
2005 [73] | William Butcher | Austin Boze | Matt Danford |
2012 [84] | Kai Lightner | Drew Ruana | Eli Frankel |
2013 [74] | Ross Fulkerson | Devin Hammonds | Sam Mcqueen |
2014 [85] | Clay Gordon | Ross Fulkerson | Joe Goodacre |
2015 [76] | Colin Duffy | Elliot Wiecek | Zander Waller |
2016 [77] | Colin Duffy | Elliot Wiecek | Connor Herson |
2017 | Lucas Oddi | Oscar Baudrand | Isaac Leff |
2018 | *Oscar Baudrand | Adam Shahar | Graham Owens |
2019 | Auggie Chi | Hugo Hoyer | Lucas Tillery |
2020 | Not held | n/a | n/a |
2021 [71] | Cruz Padilla | Cozmo Rothfork | Landers Gaydosh |
Year | Gold | Silver | Bronze |
---|---|---|---|
2004 [72] | Marah Bragdon | Tiffany Hensley | Sasha DiGiulian |
2005 [73] | Sasha DiGiulian | Chauncenia Cox | Francesca Metcalf |
2012 | Sidney Trinidad | Cierra Graham | Bimini Horstmann |
2013 [78] | Chloe Massenat | Stella Noble | Ruby Huie |
2014 [86] | Stella Noble | Lauren Bair | Emma Palmer |
2015 [76] | Jessica Fecanin | Quinn Mason | Marielle Horstmann |
2016 [77] | Alex Plotnikoff | Dinah Marcuson | Matti Dennis |
2017 | Norah Chi | Olivia Ma | Shyanne Williams |
2018 | Shyanne Williams | Alina Albert | Meera Krishnan |
2019 | Anastasia Sanders | Alina Albert | Sienna Perez |
2020 | Not held | n/a | n/a |
2021 [71] | Analise van Hoang | Shae McCarl | Kestrel Pikiewicz |
Year | Gold | Silver | Bronze |
---|---|---|---|
2004 [72] | Joshua Levin | Julian Bautista | Michael Beyer |
2005 [73] | Joshua Levin | Andy Lamb | Jeremy Lack |
2012 | Joe Goodacre | Clay Gordon | Devin Wong |
2013 [74] | Colin Duffy | Victor Baudrand | Jason Wills |
2014 [87] | Colin Duffy | Zander Waller | Ethan Rogers |
2015 [76] | Lucas Tillery | Lucas Oddi | Joshua Gerhardt |
2016 [77] | *Oscar Baudrand | Hugo Hoyer | Calvin Cha |
2017 | Lucas Tillery | Calvin Cha | Hugo Hoyer |
2018 | Auggie Chi | Declan Osgood | Hugo Hoyer |
2019 | Cruz Padilla | Wilson Whitley | Cozmo Rothfork |
2020 | Not held | n/a | n/a |
2021 | USAC Discontinued D National Championships |
Year | Gold | Silver | Bronze |
---|---|---|---|
2004 [72] | Cicada Jenerik | Francesca Metcalf | Alyse Dietel |
2005 [73] | Cicada Jenerik | Laurel Shimamura | Hunter Schumaker |
2012 | Stella Noble | Natalia Grossman | Lauren Bair |
2013 [78] | Mia Manson | Sami Singleton | Rowen Villamil |
2014 [88] | Alex Plotnikoff | Jessica Fecanin | Campbell Sarinopoulos |
2015 [76] | Matti Dennis | Lydia Dolan | Anna Von Dungen |
2016 [77] | Shyanne Williams | Olivia Kosanovich | Meera Krishnan |
2017 | Maggie Carter | Julia de la Paz | Meera Krishnan |
2018 | Zoe Yi | Kestrel Pikiewicz | Ella Gelling-Zurek |
2019 | Analise van Hoang | Jojo Chi | Noemie Nguyen |
2020 | Not held | n/a | n/a |
2021 | USAC Discontinued D National Championships |
Year | Gold | Silver | Bronze |
---|---|---|---|
2013 [59] | Thomas Pitzel | Ryan Strickland | Josh Levin |
2014 [89] | Thomas Pitzel | Dominic Labarge | Jacob Wilbur |
2015 [90] | John Brosler | Brendan Mitchell | Kirby Coggins |
2016 | John Brosler | Ben Hammer | Luke Muehring |
2017 | Max Hammer | Michael Finn-Henry | Luke Muehring |
2018 | Noah Bratschi | Michael Finn-Henry | Max Hammer |
2019 | Joe Goodacre | Noah Bratschi | Nicholas Montella |
2020 | Not held | n/a | n/a |
2021 [71] | Vincent Lee | Darren Skolnik | Micah Liss |
Year | Gold | Silver | Bronze |
---|---|---|---|
2013 [91] | Delaney Miller | Dana Riddle | Alexa Nazarian |
2014 [92] | Danielle Rogan | Jacquelyn Wu | Kyra Condie |
2015 [90] | Kayla Lieuw | Kyra Condie | Megan Carr |
2016 | Amanda Wooten | Claire Buhrfeind | Grace McKeehan |
2017 | Amanda Wooten | Piper Kelly | Grace McKeehan |
2018 | Piper Kelly | Chloe Massenat | Audrey Miller |
2019 | Lauren Bair | Natalia Grossman | Audrey Johnson |
2020 | Not held | n/a | n/a |
2021 [71] | Emma Hunt | Sienna Kopf | Emma Wetsel |
Year | Gold | Silver | Bronze |
---|---|---|---|
2013 | John Brosler | Collier Skinn | Brendan Mitchell |
2014 | John Brosler | Michael Retoff | Jake Criss |
2015 | Max Hammer | Michael Retoff | Luke Muehring |
2016 | Noah Bratschi | Gentry Cole | Drew Ruana |
2017 | Noah Bratschi | Luke Rodley | Griffin Barros-King |
2018 | Jordan Fishman | Joe Goodacre | Darren Skolnik |
2019 | Jordan Fishman | Joshua Muehring | Ethan Freudenheim |
2020 | Not held | n/a | n/a |
2021 [71] | James Roberts | Ardch Intrachupongse | Oliver Kuang |
Year | Gold | Silver | Bronze |
---|---|---|---|
2013 [91] | Megan Carr | Kyra Condie | Kayla Lieuw |
2014 [61] | Claire Buhrfeind | Grace Mckeehan | Kayla Lieuw |
2015 [90] | Erica Meister | Claire Buhrfeind | Grace Mckeehan |
2016 | Jenna Wang | Sidney Trinidad | Ariana Mathews |
2017 | Arabella Jariel | Ariana Mathews | Amanda Brownstein |
2018 | Mia Bawendi | Amanda Brownstein | Sienna Kopf |
2019 | Emma Hunt | Mia Bawendi | Kiara Pellicane-Hart |
2020 | Not held | n/a | n/a |
2021 [71] | Callie Close | Olivia Ma | Norah Chi |
Year | Gold | Silver | Bronze |
---|---|---|---|
2013 [59] | Michael Retoff | Brandon Lieuw | Nicholas Becker |
2014 [93] | Max Hammer | Matthew Nunes | Gentry Cole |
2015 [90] | Noah Bratschi | Eric Brem | Matthew Nunes |
2016 | Clay Gordon | Luke Rodley | Joshua Muehring |
2017 | Jordan Fishman | Joshua Muehring | Darren Skolnik |
2018 | Anthony Lesik | Ellis Ernsberger | Ethan Freudenheim |
2019 | Quinn O'Francia | Oliver Kuang | Silas Chang |
2020 | Not held | n/a | n/a |
2021 [71] | Richard Li | Zach Hammer | Sam Watson |
Year | Gold | Silver | Bronze |
---|---|---|---|
2013 [91] | Claire Buhrfeind | Sidney Trinidad | Grace Mckeehan |
2014 [63] | Sidney Trinidad | Jenna Wang | Bimini Horstmann |
2015 [90] | Jenna Tseng | Arabella Jariel | Jamie Dunlavy |
2016 | Lauren Bair | Arabella Jariel | Brooke Raboutou |
2017 | Mia Bawendi | Kiara Pellicane-Hart | Sienna Kopf |
2018 | Emma Hunt | Callie Close | Kiara Pellicane-Hart |
2019 | Callie Close | Olivia Ma | Oceana Carter |
2020 | Not held | n/a | n/a |
2021 [71] | Sophia Curcio | Sienna Perez | Anastasia Sanders |
Year | Gold | Silver | Bronze |
---|---|---|---|
2013 [59] | Joe Goodacre | Matthew Nunes | Matthew Grossman |
2014 [94] | Corbin Miley | Spencer Kapayo | Joe Goodacre |
2015 [90] | Chad Test | Colin Duffy | Luke Davison |
2016 | Ethan Freudenheim | Colin Duffy | Connor Herson |
2017 | Oliver Kuang | Quinn O'Francia | Oscar Baudrand |
2018 | Zach Hammer | Silas Chang | Vail Everett |
2019 | Lucas Tillery | Zach Hammer | Vail Everett |
2020 | Not held | n/a | n/a |
2021 [71] | Cozmo Rothfork | Reeder Smith | Cruz Padilla |
Year | Gold | Silver | Bronze |
---|---|---|---|
2013 [91] | Riley Ogier | Lauren Bair | Jenna Tseng |
2014 [95] | Lauren Bair | Natalia Grossman | Olivia Ogier |
2015 [90] | Jessica Fecanin | Kiara Pellicane-Hart | Phoebe Dolan |
2016 | Jessica Fecanin | Nicole (Coco) Mar | Kiara Pellicane-Hart |
2017 | Nicole (Coco) Mar | Oceana Carter | Matti Dennis |
2018 | Olivia Kosanovich | Olivia Ma | Oceana Carter |
2019 | Alina Albert | Sienna Perez | Jordan Carr |
2020 | Not held | n/a | n/a |
2021 [71] | Jojo Chi | Yealiya Southern | Emiko Takeuchi |
Year | Gold | Silver | Bronze |
---|---|---|---|
2013 [96] | Chad Test | Joshua Muehring | Ethan Rogers |
2014 [97] | Colin Duffy | Zander Waller | Ethan Rogers |
2015 [90] | Leo Costanza | Lucas Tillery | Cedar Holden |
2016 | Owen Bales | Calvin Cha | Dillon Countryman |
2017 | Dillon Countryman | Emmanuel Derima | Vail Everett |
2018 | Lucas Tillery | Michael Cullen | Auggie Chi |
2019 | Liam Anderson | William Eaton | Cozmo Rothfork |
2020 | Not held | n/a | n/a |
2021 | USAC Discontinued D National Championships |
Year | Gold | Silver | Bronze |
---|---|---|---|
2013 [91] | Jessica Fecanin | Phoebe Dolan | Mia Manson |
2014 [98] | Jessica Fecanin | Charlotte Howell | Nicole (Coco) Mar |
2015 [90] | Nicole (Coco) Mar | Zoe Lang | Campbell Sarinopoulos |
2016 | Oceana Carter | Ella Mcritchie | Alila Allen |
2017 | Maggie Carter | Julia de la Paz | Alina Albert |
2018 | Carly Alba | Sienna Perez | Kaliina Yates |
2019 | Jojo Chi | Noemie Nguyen | Yealiya Southern |
2020 | Not held | n/a | n/a |
2021 | USAC Discontinued D National Championships |
A climbing competition is usually held indoors on purpose built climbing walls. There are three main types of climbing competition: lead, speed, and bouldering. In lead climbing, the competitors start at the bottom of a route and must climb it within a certain time frame in a single attempt, making sure to clip the rope into pre-placed quickdraws along the route. Bouldering competitions consist of climbing short problems without rope, with the emphasis on number of problems completed and the attempts necessary to do so. Speed climbing can either be an individual or team event, with the person or team that can climb a standardized route the fastest winning.
Sean McColl is a professional rock climber from North Vancouver, Canada. He competes in the lead climbing, speed climbing, and bouldering disciplines, and has won major competitions in all three.
The International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) is the international governing body for the sport of competitive climbing, which consists of the disciplines lead climbing, speed climbing, and bouldering. It was founded in Frankfurt on 27 January 2007 by 48 member federations, and is a continuation of the International Council for Competition Climbing, which had been in existence from 1997 to 2007 and was a part of the Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme (UIAA).
The IFSC Climbing World Championships are the biennial world championship event for competition climbing that is organized by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC). This event determines the male and female world champions in the three disciplines of sport climbing: lead climbing, bouldering, and speed climbing. Since 2012, a Combined ranking is also determined, for climbers competing in all disciplines, and additional medals are awarded based on that ranking. The first event was organized in Frankfurt in 1991.
Shauna Coxsey is an English professional rock climber. She is the most successful competition climber in the UK, having won the IFSC Bouldering World Cup Season in both 2016 and 2017. She retired from competition climbing after competing in the 2020 Olympics.
Ashima Shiraishi is an American rock climber. Shiraishi started climbing at the age of six at Rat Rock in Central Park, joining her father. Only a few years later, she quickly established herself as one of the top boulderers and sport climbers in the world. Her numerous accolades include first-place finishes in international competitions, and multiple first female and youngest ascents. Shiraishi is featured in several short documentary-style films, and is the subject of the documentary short "Return to the Red" (2012).
Daniel Woods is an American professional rock climber who specializes in bouldering and is considered one of the most important climbers in the history of bouldering. Woods has climbed over thirty bouldering problems graded 8C (V15) or harder, making him one of the most prolific climbers of hard boulder problems. He has also won several competitions, such as the U.S. National Bouldering Championship and some international competitions. In March 2021, Woods achieved the first ascent of a low start to Sleepwalker V16 (8C+). He named the problem Return of the Sleepwalker and proposed the grade 9A (V17), making him one of only three boulderers at the time to have climbed that grade.
The IFSC Climbing European Championships are the biennial European championship for competition climbing organized by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC). The first competition was held in Frankfurt in 1992.
Brooke Raboutou is an American professional rock climber. At age 9, she ticked a V10 (7C+) and became the youngest female to climb a 5.13b (8a). At 10, she sent a V11 (8A) and became the youngest female to climb 5.13d (8b). At 11, she became the youngest female to send 5.14b (8c). Raboutou also performed well on the youth climbing circuit from 2015 to 2018.
Georg Parma is an Austrian sport climber. He competes in lead climbing, bouldering and speed climbing competitions. Currently he lives in Graz where he prepares for the 2020 Summer Olympics.
Sport climbing made its Olympic debut at the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo, Japan. Two events were held, one each for men and women. The format controversially consisted of one combined event with three disciplines: lead climbing, speed climbing and bouldering. The medals were determined based on best performance across all three disciplines. This format was previously tested at the 2018 Summer Youth Olympics. The Olympic code for sports climbing is CLB.
Margo Hayes is an American professional rock climber from Boulder, Colorado. In 2016, she won both the Bouldering and Lead Climbing events at the World Youth Championships in Guangzhou (China). In 2017, she became the first woman in history to climb a 9a+ (5.15a) graded route.
Sport climbing at the 2018 Summer Youth Olympics was held from 7 to 10 October. The competition took place at the Parque Urbano in Puerto Madero, Buenos Aires, Argentina. This marked the debut of the sport at the Youth Olympics.
South African National Climbing Federation(SANCF) is the governing body for sport climbing, involving lead climbing, bouldering and speed climbing in South Africa. SANCF oversees competitive climbing across the country as well as the promotion and development of the sport in artificial climbing environments. SANCF is affiliated to the world body International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) with full member status, and SASCOC.
Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou, is an American rock climber and rock climbing coach. She is a 4-time World Cup champion, and won the biennial World Championships in 1995. She is the third-ever woman in history to climb a 5.14a (8b+) graded sport climbing route. She has coached several competition climbers, including Megan Mascarenas, Margo Hayes and her daughter, Brooke Raboutou.
The IFSC Climbing World Youth Championships are the annual World Youth Championships for competition climbing organized by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC). The first competition was held in Basel, Switzerland in 1992. Bouldering was introduced at the 2015 World Youth Championships in Arco, Italy. There are three age groups:
Natalia Grossman is an American professional rock climber. She represents the United States at IFSC Climbing World Cup in bouldering and lead,. She won a gold and a silver medal at the 2021 IFSC Climbing World Championships and has 14 podium finishes at Climbing World Cup events, including seven gold medals.
The 2021 IFSC Climbing World Cup was the 33rd edition of the international sport climbing competition series, held in seven locations. There are 11 events: four bouldering, five lead, and two speed events. The season began on 16 April in Meiringen, Switzerland with the first bouldering competition in the season, and concluded on 4 September in Kranj, Slovenia. The International Federation of Sport Climbing had initially scheduled 18 events concluding on 31 October, but COVID-19 travel restrictions resulted in the cancellation of events in Xiamen and Wujiang in China, Jakarta in Indonesia and Seoul in South Korea.
Colin Duffy is an American professional climber. At age 16, he became the youngest climber to qualify to compete at the 2020 Summer Olympic Games in Tokyo, and the second American male climber to do so, after winning the 2020 IFSC Pan American Championships in March 2020.
Noah Bratschi is an American professional rock climber who specializes in competitive speed climbing and represents the United States at IFSC Climbing World Cups. He won the bronze medal at the 2021 International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) World Championship in Moscow, Russia. With this accomplishment he became the first American speed climber to win a World Championship medal in thirty years, and with that, he also became the first American to ever win a medal on the modern IFSC homologated speed climbing wall.
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