Sportroccia was the very first international climbing competition. Four annual Sportroccia editions were held in 1985, 1986, 1988, and 1989, in the village of Bardonecchia and Arco, Italy. [1] [2]
Sportroccia was the very first international climbing competition. Four annual Sportroccia editions were held in 1985, 1986, 1988, and 1989, in the village of Bardonecchia and Arco, Italy. [1] [2]
The first edition of Sportroccia was organized in 1985 on the initiative of Andrea Mellano, a strong climber of the '60s and a member of the Italian Academic Alpine Club, and the journalist and writer Emmanuel Cassara. The jury was composed of Riccardo Cassin, Oscar Soravito, Maurizio Zanolla and Heinz Mariacher. [3] The competition was contested on the Parete dei Militi (Wall of the Soldiers) in Valle Stretta, near Bardonecchia. The fact that the races were held on the rock and not on artificial walls put the organizers in the vanguard of several issues that eventually led to moving climbing competitions to artificial walls only.
The competition was held from July 5 to 7.
Best Italian (men): Roberto Bassi (7th), Andrea Gallo (8th).
| Pos. | Men | Women |
|---|---|---|
| 1 |  GER Stefan Glowacz |  FRA Catherine Destivelle |
| 2 | FRA Jacky Godoffe |  ITA Luisa Iovane |
| 3 | FRA Thierry Renault | FRA Martine Rolland |
The competition was held from July 11 to 13. Only Patrick Edlinger finished the final climb, which was named Caduta degli dei, 7c+ ("Damned").
Best Italian: Roberto Bassi (men) (10th) and Rosanna Manfrini (women).
| Pos. | Men | Women |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | FRA Patrick Edlinger | FRA Catherine Destivelle |
| 2 |  GBR Ben Moon |  USA Lynn Hill |
| 3 | FRA Jacky Godoffe | FRA Isabelle Patissier |
The competition was held from July 15 to 17.
| Pos. | Men | Women |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | FRA Didier Raboutou | FRA Catherine Destivelle |
| 2 | FRA Jean-Baptiste Tribout | FRA Isabelle Patissier |
| 3 |  BEL Arnould T'Kint | ITA Luisa Iovane |
The competition was held from July 14 to 16. The 1989 edition of Sportroccia also represents the third stage of the Lead Climbing World Cup, 1989.
Best Italian: Nicola Sartori (men) (4th).
| Pos. | Men | Women |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | GBR Simon Nadin | FRA Nanette Raybaud |
| 2 | GBR Jerry Moffatt | FRA Corinne Labrune |
| 3 | FRA Didier Raboutou | ITA Luisa Iovane |
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