Competition climbing has been included in the Asian Games since the 2018 Asian Games in Palembang, Indonesia. [1]
Games | Year | Host city | Best nation |
---|---|---|---|
XVIII | 2018 | Jakarta–Palembang, Indonesia | Indonesia |
XIX | 2022 | Hangzhou, China | China |
Event | 18 | 22 | Years |
---|---|---|---|
Men's speed | X | X | 2 |
Men's speed relay | X | X | 2 |
Men's combined | X | X | 2 |
Women's speed | X | X | 2 |
Women's speed relay | X | X | 2 |
Women's combined | X | X | 2 |
Total | 6 | 6 |
Rank | Nation | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Indonesia (INA) | 4 | 4 | 3 | 11 |
2 | Japan (JPN) | 3 | 1 | 1 | 5 |
3 | China (CHN) | 2 | 4 | 5 | 11 |
4 | Iran (IRI) | 2 | 0 | 0 | 2 |
5 | South Korea (KOR) | 1 | 3 | 3 | 7 |
Totals (5 entries) | 12 | 12 | 12 | 36 |
Nation | 18 | Years |
---|---|---|
China | 18 | 1 |
Chinese Taipei | 1 | 1 |
Hong Kong | 4 | 1 |
India | 3 | 1 |
Indonesia | 20 | 1 |
Iran | 8 | 1 |
Japan | 4 | 1 |
Kazakhstan | 13 | 1 |
Malaysia | 7 | 1 |
Mongolia | 3 | 1 |
Nepal | 2 | 1 |
Pakistan | 2 | 1 |
Philippines | 1 | 1 |
Singapore | 7 | 1 |
South Korea | 14 | 1 |
Thailand | 14 | 1 |
Number of nations | 16 | |
Number of athletes | 121 |
Speed climbing is a climbing discipline in which speed is the ultimate goal. Speed climbing is done on rocks, walls and poles and is only recommended for highly skilled and experienced climbers.
The International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) is the international governing body for the sport of competition climbing, which consists of the disciplines lead climbing, bouldering, and speed climbing.
Jakabaring Sport City(sic), also known as Jakabaring Sports Complex is an integrated sports facility complex in Palembang, South Sumatra, Indonesia. The complex is located 5 kilometers southeast of Palembang city center, across the Musi river by the Ampera Bridge in Jakabaring, Seberang Ulu I area.
The IFSC Climbing World Championships are the biennial world championship event for competition climbing that is organized by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC). This event determines the male and female world champions in the three disciplines of sport climbing: lead climbing, bouldering, and speed climbing. Since 2012, a Combined ranking is also determined, for climbers competing in all disciplines, and additional medals are awarded based on that ranking. The first event was organized in Frankfurt in 1991.
Artimes Farshad Yeganeh is an Iranian rock climber who has been climbing for 30 years of experiences as a professional climber, members of Iran sport climbing National Team for many years, as route setter in many national, continental and world cups and championships, and head coach of Iran Sport Climbing National Team for 6 years. He also participates in sport climbing and bouldering competitions and is one of the most famous Iranian climbers.
Competition climbing made its Olympic debut at the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo, Japan. Two events were held, one each for men and women. The format controversially consisted of one combined event with three disciplines: lead climbing, speed climbing and bouldering. The medals were determined based on best performance across all three disciplines. This format was previously tested at the 2018 Summer Youth Olympics. The Olympic code for sports climbing is CLB.
Reza Alipour Shenazandifard is an Iranian speed climber from Qazvin. He is nicknamed the "Persian Cheetah".
Akiyo Noguchi is a Japanese professional rock climber, sport climber and boulderer.
Sport climbing at the 2018 Summer Youth Olympics was held from 7 to 10 October. The competition took place at the Parque Urbano in Puerto Madero, Buenos Aires, Argentina. This marked the debut of the sport at the Youth Olympics.
Sport climbing at the 2018 Asian Games was held at the JSC Sport Climbing Arena, Palembang, Indonesia, from 23 to 27 August 2018.
Miho Nonaka is a Japanese competition boulderer. She competed at the 2020 Summer Olympics, in Women's combined, winning a silver medal.
Iran competed in the 2018 Asian Games in Jakarta and Palembang, Indonesia from 18 August to 2 September 2018. Iran has competed at the Asian Games since the first event in 1951 Delhi, and the best achievement was in 1974, when the country hosted the event in Tehran, by ranked second with the acquisition of 36 gold, 28 silver and 17 bronze medals. At the latest edition in Incheon, the country wrapped up its campaign with 57 medals in all - 21 gold, 18 silver and 18 bronze.
There were 40 quota spots available for sport climbing at the 2020 Summer Olympics. Each National Olympic Committee (NOC) could obtain a maximum of 2 spots in each event. Each event had 20 competitors qualify: 18 from qualifying, 1 from the host (Japan), and 1 from Tripartite Commission invitations.
Aries Susanti Rahayu is a sport climbing athlete from Indonesia. She is mainly active in speed climbing competitions. She has been nicknamed "Spiderwoman". She was the world record holder for women in speed climbing, which she achieved by clocking a time of 6.995 seconds at the 2019 IFSC Xiamen World Cup. Also, this made her the first woman to climb a speed wall in less than seven seconds.
Futaba Ito is a Japanese professional rock climber, sport climber and boulderer. She participates in both bouldering and lead climbing competitions. She won the IFSC Climbing Asian Youth Championships in lead and bouldering events in 2016, as well as Bouldering Japan Cup in 2017. She participated in combined and speed events at the 2018 Asian Games.
Aleksandra Mirosław is a Polish competition speed climber and a two-time women's speed world champion as well as the current women's competition speed climbing world record holder.
Veddriq Leonardo is an Indonesian speed climber. He currently holds the world record for the discipline at 4.902 seconds, accomplished in the 2023 IFSC Climbing World Cup in Seoul. He previously held the speed climbing world record around 2021 for about a year, which he set en route to winning the men's speed climbing event at the 2021 IFSC Climbing World Cup in Salt Lake City.
Yoshiyuki Ogata is a Japanese professional sport climber and boulderer. He has won multiple medals in bouldering at IFSC Climbing World Cup events, including gold medals at Vail in 2019 and at Innsbruck in 2021. Ogata won the overall IFSC Men's Bouldering title for the 2021 and 2022 seasons and finished third overall in 2019.
Competition climbing at the 2024 Summer Olympics is scheduled to run from 5 to 10 August at Le Bourget Sport Climbing Venue in Saint-Denis, returning to the program for the second time since the sport's official debut three years earlier in Tokyo 2020. The total number of medal events will double from two in the previous edition, separating the boulder-and-lead tandem from the speed format. Furthermore, Paris 2024 will witness a significant rise in the number of sport climbers competing contrary to Tokyo 2020, expanding the roster size from 40 to 68.
Kiromal Katibin is an Indonesian sport climber specializing in speed climbing. He was the world record holder in speed climbing, with a time of 5.009 seconds recorded at 2022 IFSC Climbing World Cup in Chamonix, France in July 2022, until it was broken by his compatriot Veddriq Leonardo in April 2023. He finished second overall in the men's speed category during the 2021 IFSC Climbing World Cup series. Katibin also has four career IFSC Climbing World Cup medals, all in speed.