Dry-tooling

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Dry-tooling (or drytooling) is a form of mixed climbing that is performed on bare, ice-free, and snow-free, routes. As with mixed climbing, the climber uses ice axes and crampons to ascend the route, but uses only rock climbing equipment for protection; many modern dry-tooling routes are now fully bolted like sport climbing routes. Indoor ice climbing competitions are held on non-ice surfaces and are effectively dry-tooling events.

Contents

Dry-tooling developed from the mid-1990s as the standards of mixed climbing rose dramatically, and the most difficult part of the new extreme M-graded mixed routes was often the dry-tooling component (i.e. a roof or severe overhang). Some of the most extreme mixed climbing routes now quote a D-grade alongside the M-grade to signify whether there was any ice encountered (i.e. Iron Man in Switzerland which is M14+/D14+).

Dry-tooling uses the identical equipment and techniques of mixed climbing and has followed its increased regulation of equipment to counter criticisms that it is a form of aid climbing. Dry-tooling has faced additional criticisms due to the damage it can do to natural rock surfaces, and dry-tooling climbing areas are usually separate from rock climbing areas. Dry tooling has been advocated as a more accessible sport for women.

Description

Dry-tooling is mixed climbing performed on surfaces that have no ice or snow. The equipment is identical to mixed climbing, except that none of the ice climbing tools used by mixed climbers for protection are employed (e.g. ice screws). Dry-tooling climbers use the same fruit boots, monopoint crampons, heel spurs, and advanced leashless ice axes, which mixed climbers use. All of the unique techniques used in mixed climbing including stein pulls, torque pulls, undercling pulls, and figure-four moves are also used in dry-tooling. [1]

While dry-tooling techniques are used in alpine climbing, the modern sport of dry-tooling is associated with bolted protection, in the same manner as sport climbing rock routes. [1] Like sport climbing, dry-tooling is also closely associated with competition ice climbing. [1] As with mixed climbing, the equipment of dry-tooling has become more closely governed to counter criticisms of the sport being akin to aid climbing. [1] Dry-tooling in competition ice climbing no longer allows ice axe leashes and controls the dimensions of tools and the use of heel spurs. [1]

Types of routes

Dry-tooling climbers avoid rock climbing venues as the action of the ice axe can damage fragile holds (i.e. dry-tooling climbers do not attempt to repeat graded rock climbing routes). [1] Popular dry-tooling bolted venues are therefore often explicitly unsuitable for rock climbing due to weak rock (e.g. choss rock as found in the Dolomites or in the Fang Amphitheater in Vail, Colorado), and/or are perpetually in damp and wet condition. [1] [2]

Leading dry-tooling climbers focus on roofs to push standards (and under DTS conditions), and thus many of the most important venues are caves (or quasi-caves), such as A Line Above the Sky (D15 DTS) and Parallel World (D16 DTS) in the Tomorrow's World Cave in Marmolada, [3] [4] Bichette Light (D14 DTS) in the L'Usine Cave in Grenoble, or the Storm Giant (D16) in a remote cave in Fernie, British Columbia. [1] or the Aletheia (D16) and Téleios (D16+) in the Tana del drago in Ponte nelle Alpi.

History

Dry-tooling has always been used by ice climbers and mixed climbers to train in the summer months of the off-season, and as part of mixed climbing, dry-tooling techniques have been used in alpine climbing for decades. [5] In 1994, when Jeff Lowe dry-tooled a bare rock roof to get to the impressive hanging icicle of Octopussy in Vail, Colorado, and graded his ascent at WI6 M8, the sport of mixed climbing, but also dry-tooling was born. [6] [7]

Climber doing a dry-tooling figure-four move and undercling pull at the 2016 UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup 2016 UIAA Ice Climbing World Tour Cheongsong - 220.jpg
Climber doing a dry-tooling figure-four move and undercling pull at the 2016 UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup

While the early surge from 1994 to 2003 was focused on developing mixed climbing routes with sections of both rock and ice, as M-graded milestones rose, the technical challenges became more concentrated on the dry-tooling part of the routes, and particularly on breaching ever-larger roofs. [2] At the same time, the UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup events were being held on non-iced surfaces that were essentially dry-tooling routes, and UIAA male and female competitors also began to push dry-tooling standards in the outside environment. [2]

In 2010, French climbers, including Jeff Mercier  [ fr ], introduced Dry Tooling Style (DTS), restricting equipment use and prohibiting figure-four and figure-nine moves (also called a "yaniro"). [8] Competitions under DTS rules have been held, and several leading dry-tooling climbers have set new grade milestones in DTS fashion. [2]

In 2012, Swiss climber Robert Jasper  [ de ] made the first ascent of Iron Man in completely dry conditions and graded it D14+, using a "D" prefix to denote "dry conditions"; he then repeated the route later in iced conditions and added a grade of M14+, for "mixed conditions". [9] In 2016, when the late British climber Tom Ballard freed the hardest dry-tooling climb in history, A Line Above the Sky, he graded it D15 DTS (i.e. done in the DTS style) and avoided the "M" prefix. [3] [10]

Techniques

Using a stein pull Ice climbing Ecrins 2014.jpg
Using a stein pull
Using a figure-four move and wearing fruit boots Ice climbing Ecrins 2014 - 12056791655.jpg
Using a figure-four move and wearing fruit boots

As well as using standard techniques of ice climbing (e.g. front pointing) and of rock climbing (e.g. crack climbing, but with ice axes), dry-tooling climbers have developed a range of techniques that are largely unique to their sport (and the derived sport of mixed-tooling). These include: [11]

In addition, dry-tooling climbers try to keep their elbows near their sides (i.e. to avoid draining energy in torque and stein pulls), [11] and are very careful in extracting wedged blades (i.e. which can ricochet back into the climber's face), and of gently balancing the front points of their crampons on thin holds. [11]

Evolution of grade milestones

Jeff Mercier [fr] in the final of a DTS Tour event, 2014 Jeff Mercier - DTS Tour 2014 Final, 29th November 2014 (4).jpg
Jeff Mercier  [ fr ] in the final of a DTS Tour event, 2014

While many mixed climbing M-graded routes could be more accurately described as combinations of D-graded dry-tooling routes and WI-graded ice climbing routes, it was not until Robert Jasper's ascent of Iron Man in 2012, that D-grades become more common for routes that had no ice whatsoever. [2]

Female grade milestones

Angelika Rainer [it] on French Connection (D15-), Tomorrow's World Cave, Marmolada, Italy Angelika Rainer Marmolada 1.png
Angelika Rainer  [ it ] on French Connection (D15-), Tomorrow's World Cave, Marmolada, Italy

Most leading female dry-tooling climbers are competition ice climbers from the UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup tour, however, despite their smaller grouping, on several occasions, female dry-tooling climbers have set grade milestones that matched the highest male grades at the time; dry-tooling has been advocated as an accessible sport for women: [24]

See also

Related Research Articles

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Many climbing routes have a grade that reflects the technical difficulty—and in some cases the risks and commitment level—of the route. The first ascensionist can suggest a grade, but it will be amended to reflect the consensus view of subsequent ascents. While many countries with a strong tradition of climbing developed grading systems, a small number of grading systems have become internationally dominant for each type of climbing, which has contributed to the standardization of grades worldwide. Over the years, grades have consistently risen in all forms of climbing, helped by improvements in climbing technique and equipment.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Traditional climbing</span> Type of rock climbing

Traditional climbing is a type of free climbing in rock climbing where the lead climber places the protection equipment while ascending the route; when the lead climber has completed the route, the second climber then removes the protection equipment as they climb the route. Traditional climbing differs from sport climbing where the protection equipment is pre-drilled into the rock in the form of bolts.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Climbing route</span> Path to scale a mountain, rock, or ice wall

A climbing route is a path by which a climber reaches the top of a mountain, or rock/ice-covered obstacle. The details of a climbing route are recorded in a climbing guidebook and/or in an online climbing route database, and will include elements such as the type of climbing route, the difficulty grade of the route–and beta on its crux(es)–and any risk or commitment grade, the length and number of pitches of the route, and the climbing equipment needed to complete the route.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Glossary of climbing terms</span> For rock climbing and mountaineering

Glossary of climbing terms relates to rock climbing, mountaineering, and to ice climbing.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">First ascent</span> Mountaineering and climbing term

In mountaineering and climbing, a first ascent, is the first successful documented climb to the top of a mountain or the top of a particular climbing route. Early 20th-century mountaineers and climbers focused on reaching the tops of iconic mountains and climbing routes by whatever means possible, often using considerable amounts of aid climbing, and/or with large expedition style support teams that laid "siege" to the climb.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Ice climbing</span> Type of climbing with ice tools

Ice climbing is a climbing discipline that involves ascending routes consisting of frozen water. To ascend, the ice climber uses specialist equipment, particularly double ice axes and rigid crampons. To protect the route, the ice climber uses steel ice screws that require skill to employ safely and rely on the ice holding firm in any fall. Ice climbing routes can vary significantly by type, and include seasonally frozen waterfalls, high permanently frozen alpine couloirs, and large hanging icicles.

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">Aid climbing</span> Type of rock climbing

Aid climbing is a form of rock climbing that uses mechanical devices and equipment, such as aiders, for upward momentum. Aid climbing is different than free climbing, which only uses mechanical equipment for protection, but not to assist in upward momentum. Aid climbing sometimes involves hammering in permanent pitons and bolts, into which the aiders are clipped, but there is also 'clean aid climbing' which avoids any hammering, and only uses removable placements.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Top rope climbing</span> Type of rock climbing

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">Redpoint (climbing)</span> Type of free climbing

In rock climbing, redpointing means to free-climb a climbing route from the ground to the top while lead climbing, after having practiced the route or after having failed first attempt. Climbers will try to redpoint a route after having failed to onsight it, or flash it. The first successful redpoint of a route, in the absence of any prior onsight or flash, is recorded as the first free ascent (FFA) of that route.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Wolfgang Güllich</span> German rock climber

Wolfgang Güllich was a German rock climber, who is considered one of the greatest and most influential climbers in the history of the sport. Güllich dominated sport climbing after his 1984 ascent of Kanal im Rücken, the world's first-ever redpoint of an 8b (5.13d) route. He continued to set more "new hardest grade" breakthroughs than any other climber in sport climbing history, with Punks in the Gym in 1985, the world's first-ever 8b+ (5.14a), Wallstreet in 1987, the world's first-ever 8c (5.14b), and with Action Directe in 1991, the world's first-ever 9a (5.14d).

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Michael Fowler is a British rock climber, ice climber, mountaineer and climbing author. He is internationally noted for his alpine climbing and was awarded the Piolet d'Or three times, with Paul Ramsden, in 2003, 2013, and 2016, for alpine-style first ascents of faces in the Himalayas. Fowler was one of the first British rock climbers to free an E6-graded traditional rock climbing route, and the first ice climber to free a consensus grade VI mixed Scottish winter route.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Big wall climbing</span> Type of rock climbing

Big wall climbing is a form of rock climbing that takes place on long multi-pitch routes that normally require a full day, if not several days, to ascend. In addition, big wall routes are typically sustained and exposed, where the climbers remain suspended from the rock face, even sleeping hanging from the face, with limited options to sit down or escape unless they abseil back down the whole route. It is therefore a physically and mentally demanding form of climbing.

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">Alpine climbing</span> Type of mountaineering

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Tom Ballard was a British rock climber and alpinist, who was the first mountaineer to climb the six major alpine north faces solo in a single winter season. In February 2019, Ballard disappeared during bad weather on an expedition to Nanga Parbat, in Pakistan-administered Kashmir. His body was discovered on the mountain's Mummery Spur on 9 March 2019.

Sébastien Bouin, nicknamed Seb Bouin, is a French rock climber born in Draguignan. By 2022, Bouin is regarded as one of the strongest sport climbers in the world, being only the second-ever climber to establish a route graded 9c (5.15d), with DNA in 2022, and one of only a handful of climbers to create a new route at the grade of 9b+ (5.15c). Bouin is also regarded for his documentary series on the history of extreme sport climbing in France.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Jonathan Siegrist</span> American rock climber

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References

  1. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 Gladish, Dave (21 February 2023). "Opinion: Why Is Dry Tooling Getting So Popular? It's Awesome". Climbing . Retrieved 2 May 2023.
  2. 1 2 3 4 5 "Generation Dry, discovering the world of Dry Tooling". PlanetMountain. 4 January 2019. Retrieved 2 May 2023.
  3. 1 2 3 "Tom Ballard claims world's first D15 dry tooling climb in the Dolomites". PlanetMountain. 5 February 2016. Retrieved 2 May 2023.
  4. 1 2 "Dariusz Sokołowski discovers his Parallel World, D16 dry tooling in the Dolomites". PlanetMountain. 8 January 2019. Retrieved 2 May 2023.
  5. ↑ "Five Drytooling Tips to Climb Stronger in Shoulder Season". Gripped Magazine. 5 October 2021. Retrieved 2 May 2023.
  6. ↑ Takeda, Pete (14 January 2014). "TNB: Jeff Lowe Invented the Sport". Rock & Ice . Retrieved 30 April 2023.
  7. ↑ Clarke, Owen (25 February 2022). "Jeff Lowe, Ice And Mixed Climbing Pioneer". Climbing . Retrieved 30 April 2023.
  8. ↑ Rivadossi, Matteo (7 January 2015). "Jeff Merçier climbs first Italian D14 at Bus Quai". PlanetMountain. Retrieved 2 May 2023. It's important to underline that once again Merçier climbed without making any Figure of Four moves, opting instead for the more physical and natural DTS (Dry Tooling Style) climbing style he believes is more ethical and which he promotes internationally.
  9. 1 2 Geldard, Jack (22 February 2012). "Robert Jasper on Iron Man (M14+)". UKClimbing. Retrieved 1 May 2023.
  10. 1 2 Levy, Michael (22 August 2017). "World's Hardest Dry-Tooling Route Established in Canada". The Outdoor Journal. Retrieved 2 May 2023.
  11. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 Buhay, Corey (8 February 2017). "Why (and How) You Should Learn to Mixed Climb". REI . Retrieved 30 April 2023.
  12. ↑ Issac, Sean (2 February 2004). "Mixed Climbing Skills: The Stein Pull". Climbing. Retrieved 30 April 2023.
  13. ↑ "Will Gadd climbs the hardest of his life with Instagram at The Temple". Desnivel . 8 January 2016. Retrieved 2 May 2023.
  14. ↑ "Around the world of extreme drytooling by Young-Hye Kwon". Desnivel . 12 March 2015. Retrieved 1 May 2023. The flight dropped him off directly in Switzerland, where he wasted no time heading to the Eptingen area to see with his own eyes what is considered to be the toughest route in world mixed sports, Ironman D/M14+, opened by Robert Jasper, in 2012.
  15. ↑ "Tom Ballard Establishes World's Hardest Dry-Tooling Route". Rock & Ice . February 2016. Retrieved 2 May 2023.
  16. 1 2 "Angelika Rainer's Historic D15 Climb in Italy". Gripped Magazine. 23 November 2017. Retrieved 3 May 2023.
  17. ↑ "Gordon McArthur vs. Storm Giant, world's first proposed D16 dry tooling climb". PlanetMountain. 9 December 2017. Retrieved 2 May 2023.
  18. ↑ Kosteki, Krystan (December 2017). "Storm Giant – The World's Hardest Drytooling Route". Rock & Ice . Retrieved 2 May 2023.
  19. ↑ Kosteki, Krystan (8 January 2019). "Darek Sokołowski Establishes "Parallel World" (D16), Possibly World's Hardest Dry-Tooling Route". Rock & Ice . Retrieved 2 May 2023.
  20. ↑ "Matteo Pilon ripete Parallel World - Up-Climbing". www.up-climbing.com. Retrieved 2024-03-11.
  21. ↑ Walsh, Anthony (2024-01-30). "American Climbs the World's Hardest Dry Tooling Route". Climbing. Retrieved 2024-03-11.
  22. ↑ "American Climber Repeats D16 on Huge Roof". Gripped Magazine. 2024-02-01. Retrieved 2024-03-11.
  23. ↑ Téleios D16+ First Ascent - Tana del Drago (Italy) - Matteo Pilon , retrieved 2024-03-11
  24. 1 2 Sterling, Sarah (4 December 2017). "INTERVIEW: Angelika Rainer, the first woman to drytool D15". British Mountaineering Council . Retrieved 3 May 2023.
  25. ↑ "Ines Papert imposes Law and Order M13". PlanetMountain. 22 February 2007. Retrieved 3 May 2023.
  26. ↑ Lambert, Erik (17 March 2007). "First woman to send M13". Alpinist . Retrieved 3 May 2023.
  27. ↑ Geldhard, Jack (19 February 2013). "Female Ascent of M14 Mixed Route for Lucie Hrozova". UKClimbing.
  28. ↑ "Lucie Hrozová becomes first woman to climb M14 with Ironman". PlanetMountain. 10 February 2013. Retrieved 3 May 2023.
  29. ↑ "Angelika Rainer first female D15 with A Line Above the Sky". PlanetMountain. 12 November 2017. Retrieved 3 May 2023.

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