Formation | 22 December 1857 |
---|---|
Founded at | London, England, United Kingdom |
Headquarters | 55–56 Charlotte Road, Shoreditch, London, England, United Kingdom |
Website | Alpine-Club.org.uk |
The Alpine Club was founded in London on 22 December 1857 and is the world's first mountaineering club. [1] The primary focus of the club is to support mountaineers who climb in the Alps and the Greater Ranges of the world's mountains. [2]
Though the club organises some UK-based meets and indoor lectures, its primary focus has always tended towards mountaineering overseas. It is associated more with exploratory mountaineering than with purely technical climbing (the early club was once dismissed as doing very little climbing but "a lot of walking steeply uphill").[ citation needed ] These higher technical standards were often to be found in offshoots such as the 'Alpine Climbing Group' (ACG), which was founded in 1952 and merged with the Alpine Club in 1967; the AGC is aimed at those "who aspire to establish or repeat technically difficult climbs or undertake exploratory expeditions". [3]
The club continues to encourage and sponsor mountaineering expeditions through its membership and is specifically focused on connecting with younger mountaineers. [3]
It also holds extensive book and photo libraries as well as an archive of historical artifacts which are regularly lent out to exhibitions.
The Club maintains an online "Himalayan Index" of articles about Himalayan mountaineering activities recorded in journals, magazines and books in its library. [4]
Its members' activities are recounted annually in the club's publication the Alpine Journal , the world's oldest mountaineering journal, and interim newsletters are produced during the year.
The club has also produced a suite of guidebooks that cover some of the more popular Alpine mountaineering regions.
The Alpine Club was founded on 22 December 1857 by a group of British mountaineers at Ashley's Hotel in London. The original founders were active mountaineers in the Alps and instrumental in the development of alpine mountaineering during the Golden Age of Alpinism (1854–1865). E. S. Kennedy was the first chairman of the Alpine Club but the naturalist, John Ball, was the first president. Kennedy, also the first vice-president, succeeded him as president of the club from 1860 to 1863. In 1863, the club moved its headquarters to the Metropole Hotel.
The Alpine Club is specifically known for having developed early mountaineering-specific gear including a new type of rope. The goal was to engineer a strong and light rope that could be carried easily. A committee of the club tested samples from suppliers and prepared a specification in the early 1900s. The official Alpine Club Rope was then made by John Buckingham of Bloomsbury. It was made from three strands of manila hemp, treated to be rot proof and marked with a red thread of worsted yarn. [5] From the 19th century British mountaineers and members of the Alpine Club were instrumental in the popularisation of mountainteering in Norway among the international mountaineering community, with William Cecil Slingsby's influential book, Norway, the Northern Playground . The Alpine Club was the role model of the Norwegian Alpine Club, the third oldest of its kind worldwide.
The present Alpine Club members remain extremely active in the Alps and the Greater Ranges, as well as in mountain arts, literature and science.
For many years it had the characteristics of a London-based Gentlemen's club, including a certain imprecision in the qualification for membership (said to have been 'A reasonable number of respectable peaks'). Until 1974, the club was strictly for men only, but in 1975, within months of membership being opened to women, a merger with the Ladies' Alpine Club was agreed, and the Club thus gained about 150 new members. [6] By the last quarter of the 20th century, the club had evolved into Britain's senior mountaineering club, with a clear qualification for membership, for both men and women, and an 'aspirant' grade for those working towards full membership. However, it still requires prospective members to be proposed and seconded by existing members.
The club's history has been documented by George Band in his book Summit: 150 Years of the Alpine Club, and its artists in The Artists of the Alpine Club by Peter Mallalieu.
The club's first premises were at 8 St Martin's Place, Trafalgar Square, where it rented rooms in 1858. [10] In 1895 the club moved to 23 Savile Row, and in June 1907, the Scottish artist Sholto Johnstone Douglas held an exhibition of his portraits at the Club. [11]
From 1937 to 1990 the club was based at 74, South Audley Street, in Mayfair, London. In 1936–1937, the surveying firm of Pilditch, Chadwick and Company had converted the ground floor of the building into suitable premises for the club. [12] The club's library was at the back of the building, in what was once the picture gallery of Sir William Cuthbert Quilter. In 1990 the club sold its lease of 74, South Audley Street and briefly shared quarters with the Ski Club of Great Britain at 118, Eaton Square.
In 1991, the Alpine Club acquired the freehold of a five-storey Victorian warehouse at 55, Charlotte Road, on the edge of the City of London, and this building remains its current headquarters. [13] The club's lecture room, bunk-house, library, and archives are all housed there.
In Dorothy L Sayers' 1923 novel Whose Body Sir Julian Freake is a member of the Alpine Club. [14]
Mountaineering, mountain climbing, or alpinism is a set of outdoor activities that involves ascending mountains. Mountaineering-related activities include traditional outdoor climbing, skiing, and traversing via ferratas that have become sports in their own right. Indoor climbing, sport climbing, and bouldering are also considered variants of mountaineering by some, but are part of a wide group of mountain sports.
William Martin Conway, 1st Baron Conway of Allington,, known between 1895 and 1931 as Sir Martin Conway, was an English art critic, politician, cartographer and mountaineer, who made expeditions in Europe as well as in South America and Asia.
The American Alpine Club (AAC) is a non-profit member organization with more than 26,000 members. The club is housed in the American Mountaineering Center (AMC) in Golden, Colorado.
George Christopher Band was an English mountaineer. He was the youngest climber on the 1953 British expedition to Mount Everest on which Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay became the first to ascend the mountain. In 1955, he and Joe Brown were the first climbers to ascend Kangchenjunga, the third highest mountain in the world.
George and Ashley Abraham, sometimes referred to as "The Keswick Brothers", were climbers, authors and photographers who lived in Keswick, Cumberland in the English Lake District. They made a photographic record of the exploits of many of the climbing pioneers, especially Owen Glynne Jones, with whom they formed a close climbing partnership from 1896 until his death in 1899. Most of their work was done between 1890 and 1920 and forms a valuable record of the evolution of early rock-climbing in the English Lake District.
Charles Hudson was an Anglican chaplain and mountain climber from Skillington, Lincolnshire, England.
Roger Richard Edward Chorley, 2nd Baron Chorley, was a British chartered accountant and peer.
The golden age of alpinism was the decade in mountaineering between Alfred Wills's ascent of the Wetterhorn in 1854 and Edward Whymper's ascent of the Matterhorn in 1865, during which many major peaks in the Alps saw their first ascents.
Edward Shirley Kennedy (1817–1898) was an English mountaineer and author, and a founding member of the Alpine Club.
The Alpine Journal (AJ) is an annual publication by the Alpine Club of London. It is the oldest mountaineering journal in the world.
The Mount Everest Committee was a body formed by the Alpine Club and the Royal Geographical Society to co-ordinate and finance the 1921 British Mount Everest reconnaissance expedition to Mount Everest and all subsequent British expeditions to climb the mountain until 1947. It was then renamed the Joint Himalayan Committee; this latter committee organised and financed the successful first ascent of Mount Everest in 1953.
Allen Parker Steck was an American mountaineer and rock climber.
Trevor Hyam Braham was a British Himalayan explorer and mountaineer, mostly active during the mid-20th century.
Lieutenant-Colonel Harry Reginald Antony Streather was a British Army officer who served in the Gloucestershire Regiment, and mountaineer who first-ascended the third-highest mountain in the world, on the 1955 British Kangchenjunga expedition, and Tirich Mir. Streather was the first man ever to climb two peaks above 25,000 feet (7,600 m).
Sir John Oakley Maund was an English banker, stockbroker, entrepreneur, hunter and mountaineer during the silver age of alpinism.
Thomas Woodbine Hinchliff was an English mountaineer, traveller, and author, from 1875 to 1877 the seventh President of the Alpine Club.
The Ladies' Scottish Climbing Club was founded by Jane Inglis Clark, her daughter Mabel, and Lucy Smith at a boulder near Lix Toll, Perthshire in 1908. It now has about 120 members and is the oldest active climbing club exclusively for women. The club has sent numerous expeditions abroad and made the first all-woman climb of a major peak in the Himalayas.
Norman David Hardie was a New Zealand climber who was one of the climbers on the 1955 British Kangchenjunga expedition who first reached the summit of the 8,586-metre (28,169 ft) mountain, the third-highest mountain in the world.
Joyce Dunsheath, née Cissie Providence Houchen, was an English mountaineer, traveller, explorer and writer.
Anthony David Machell Cox was a historian and mountaineer.