Front pointing

Last updated
Ice climbers and mountaineers front-pointing
Crampon.JPG
On hard ice
Climbing in Alaska.JPG
On snow slopes

Front-pointing (or German technique) is a technique used in mountaineering and ice climbing where a climber embeds, usually by a kicking action, the sharp metal 'front-point(s)' of their modern metal rigid crampon into the ice or hard packed snow to gain a secure foothold to assist their upward momentum on the climbing route. [1]

Contents

Front-pointing places greater strain on the leg muscles than the French technique where the feet remain flat on the surface using the "duck foot" (feet pointing either side at 90 degrees), or the "flat foot" (moving diagonally up the slope). [2] For steep slopes of about 45 degrees and upwards, the French technique is less feasible to execute. [1] Some use a hybrid technique, the "pied troisieme" (or the 3 o'clock position), where one crampon (the lower one) is front-pointing while the other crampon is at a 90-degree sideways angle but still flat on the surface and following the French technique; [1] this hybrid technique allows climbers to avoid the strain of full front-pointing when ascending snow slopes that are both long and steep. [2]

A crampon's two 'front points' can be horizontal (l) or vertical (r) Klim crampons.jpg
A crampon's two 'front points' can be horizontal (l) or vertical (r)

Front-pointing is an easy concept but takes experience to apply efficiently and safely. [3] Ice climbers need to ensure that when kicking the front-points of their crampons into ice they do not shatter the wider surface, which could break off. [3] Novice ice climbers, and particularly those used to rock climbing, tend to raise their heels upward when front-pointing — as rock climbers do on footholds — which can cause the points of the crampon to shear out of the ice; experienced climbers drop their heels slightly. [3] While front-pointing encourages a direct upward climbing style, ice climbers need to maintain a resting "triangle position", with the feet apart on either side of their centre of gravity (COG), and avoid their feet being together right under their COG. [3]

Front-pointing dates from the early 1930s when Grivel added two front points to their 10-point crampon of the French technique. It came to international prominence when Heinrich Harrer, in his book about the famous 1938 first ascent of the Eiger north face, said "I looked back, down our endless ladder of [French technique] steps. Up it, I saw the New Era coming at express speed; there were two men running — I mean running, not climbing — up". The two men were Anderl Heckmair and Ludwig Vörg, who were front-pointing on the Eiger's second ice field. They joined with Heckmair and Fritz Kasparek to complete the climb. In the 1960s, Stubai bent the second row of points forward for additional "heel-dropping traction" when front-pointing (see image). [4]

See also

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Climbing</span> Activity to ascend a steep object

Climbing is the activity of using one's hands, feet, or other parts of the body to ascend a steep topographical object that can range from the world's tallest mountains to small boulders. Climbing is done for locomotion, sporting recreation, for competition, and is also done in trades that rely on ascension, such as rescue and military operations. Climbing is done indoors and outdoors, on natural surfaces, and on artificial surfaces

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Mountaineering</span> Sport of mountain climbing

Mountaineering, mountain climbing, or alpinism is a set of outdoor activities that involves ascending mountains. Mountaineering-related activities include traditional outdoor climbing, skiing, and traversing via ferratas that have become sports in their own right. Indoor climbing, sport climbing, and bouldering are also considered variants of mountaineering by some, but are part of a wide group of mountain sports.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Crampons</span> Traction device for ice-climbing

A crampon is a traction device attached to footwear to improve mobility on snow and ice during ice climbing. Besides ice climbing, crampons are also used for secure travel on snow and ice, such as crossing glaciers, snowfields and icefields, ascending snow slopes, and scaling ice-covered rock.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Ice axe</span> Winter mountaineering tool

An ice axe is a multi-purpose hiking and climbing tool used by mountaineers in both the ascent and descent of routes that involve snow, ice, or frozen conditions. Its use depends on the terrain: in its simplest role it is used like a walking stick, with the mountaineer holding the head in the center of their uphill hand.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Glossary of climbing terms</span> For rock climbing and mountaineering

Glossary of climbing terms relates to rock climbing, mountaineering, and to ice climbing.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Ice climbing</span> Type of climbing with ice tools

Ice climbing is a climbing discipline that involves ascending routes consisting of frozen water. To ascend, the ice climber uses specialist equipment, particularly double ice axes and rigid crampons. To protect the route, the ice climber uses steel ice screws that require skill to employ safely and rely on the ice holding firm in any fall. Ice climbing routes can vary significantly by type, and include seasonally frozen waterfalls, high permanently frozen alpine couloirs, and large hanging icicles.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Glissade (climbing)</span> Technique in mountaineering

A glissade is a climbing technique mostly used in mountaineering and alpine climbing where a climber starts a controlled slide down a snow and/or ice slope to speed up their descent. Glissading is ideally done later in the day when the snow is softer.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Eiger</span> Mountain in the Bernese Alps, Switzerland

The Eiger is a 3,967-metre (13,015 ft) mountain of the Bernese Alps, overlooking Grindelwald and Lauterbrunnen in the Bernese Oberland of Switzerland, just north of the main watershed and border with Valais. It is the easternmost peak of a ridge crest that extends across the Mönch to the Jungfrau at 4,158 m (13,642 ft), constituting one of the most emblematic sights of the Swiss Alps. While the northern side of the mountain rises more than 3,000 m (10,000 ft) above the two valleys of Grindelwald and Lauterbrunnen, the southern side faces the large glaciers of the Jungfrau-Aletsch area, the most glaciated region in the Alps. The most notable feature of the Eiger is its nearly 1,800-metre-high (5,900 ft) north face of rock and ice, named Eiger-Nordwand, Eigerwand or just Nordwand, which is the biggest north face in the Alps. This huge face towers over the resort of Kleine Scheidegg at its base, on the eponymous pass connecting the two valleys.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Ski mountaineering</span> Skiing discipline

Ski mountaineering is a skiing discipline that involves climbing mountains either on skis or carrying them, depending on the steepness of the ascent, and then descending on skis. There are two major categories of equipment used, free-heel Telemark skis and skis based on Alpine skis, where the heel is free for ascents, but is fixed during descent. The discipline may be practiced recreationally or as a competitive sport.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Dry-tooling</span> Form of mixed climbing on bare rock

Dry-tooling is a form of mixed climbing that is performed on bare, ice-free, and snow-free, routes. As with mixed climbing, the climber uses ice axes and crampons to ascend the route, but uses only rock climbing equipment for protection; many modern dry-tooling routes are now fully bolted like sport climbing routes. Indoor ice climbing competitions are held on non-ice surfaces and are effectively dry-tooling events.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Pitch (climbing)</span> Steep section of a climbing route requiring a rope

In climbing, a pitch is a section of a climbing route between two belay points, and is most commonly related to the task of lead climbing, but is also related to abseiling. Climbing on routes that require only one pitch is known as single-pitch climbing, and climbing on routes with more than one pitch is known as multi-pitch climbing.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">John Harlin</span> American mountaineer (1935–1966)

John Elvis Harlin II was an American alpinist and US Air Force pilot who was killed while making an ascent of the north face of the Eiger.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Self-arrest</span> Technique in mountaineering

The self-arrest is a climbing technique mostly used in mountaineering and alpine climbing where a climber who has fallen and is sliding uncontrollably down a snow or ice-covered slope 'arrests' their fall by themselves by using their ice axe and their crampons.

Andreas "Anderl" Heckmair was a German mountain climber and guide who led the first successful ascent of the Eiger north face in July 1938.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Ice tool</span> Specialised modern ice axe

An ice tool is a specialized elaboration of the modern ice axe, used in ice climbing, mostly for the more difficult configurations. Ice tools are used two to a person for the duration of a pitch, and thus in some circumstances such as top-rope-anchored climbs, a pair may be shared among two or more people, where only one of them at a time is climbing. In contrast a classical "ice axe" is used one to a person for the hours or days a party is traveling across snow or glacier. In communities where it is common to refer to an "ice tool" simply as an "ice axe", classic "ice axes" are often referred to as "traveling axes", "walking axes", or "general mountaineering axes" to distinguish them from "tools".

Ludwig 'Wiggerl' Vörg was a notable German mountaineer. With Heinrich Harrer, Fritz Kasparek, and Anderl Heckmair, he successfully climbed the north face of the Eiger in 1938, which was regarded as unclimbable at the time. He also made the first ascent of the West Face of Ushba in the Caucasus. Vörg was killed in action on the first day of Operation Barbarossa, Nazi Germany's invasion of the Soviet Union on 22 June 1941.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Mixed climbing</span> Ice climbing on ice and rock surfaces

Mixed climbing is a climbing discipline used on routes that do have not enough ice to be pure ice climbs, but are also not dry enough to be pure rock climbs. To ascend the route, the mixed climber uses ice climbing tools, but to protect the route, they use traditional or sport rock climbing tools. Mixed climbing can vary from routes with sections of thick layers of ice and sections of bare rock to routes that are mainly bare rock but which is “iced-up”.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Traverse (climbing)</span> Section of lateral movement on a climbing route

In climbing and mountaineering, a traverse is a section of a climbing route where the climber moves laterally, as opposed to in an upward direction. The term has broad application, and its use can range from describing a brief section of lateral movement on a pitch of a climbing route, to large multi-pitch climbing routes that almost entirely consist of lateral movement such as girdle traverses that span the entire rock face of a crag, to mountain traverses that span entire ridges connecting chains of mountain peaks.

Alex MacIntyre (1954–1982) was a British mountaineer in the 1970s. He is known for developing new climbing techniques that enabled ascents not previously accomplished.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Alpine climbing</span> Type of mountaineering

Alpine climbing is a type of mountaineering that involves using any of a broad range of advanced climbing skills, including rock climbing, ice climbing, and/or mixed climbing, to summit typically large routes in an alpine environment. While alpine climbing began in the European Alps, it is used to refer to climbing in any remote mountainous area, including in the Himalayas and in Patagonia. The derived term alpine style refers to the fashion of alpine climbing to be in small lightly-equipped teams who carry their own equipment, and do all of the climbing.

References

  1. 1 2 3 Bloemsma, Katrina (2024). "How to Climb Ice". REI . Retrieved 9 July 2024.
  2. 1 2 McDonald, Dougald (14 January 2013). "French Technique". Climbing . Retrieved 14 July 2024.
  3. 1 2 3 4 McEwan, George (6 January 2016). "Steep Ice Climbing Technique". UKClimbing. Retrieved 14 July 2024.
  4. "History of Crampons Timeline". Climbing . 13 November 2003. Retrieved 14 July 2024.

Further reading