Climbing guidebook

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Topo image of cliff Toix Est in the Costa Blanca region of Spain, by climber Chris Craggs from a Rockfax guidebook Toix Est Topo.jpg
Topo image of cliff Toix Est in the Costa Blanca region of Spain, by climber Chris Craggs from a Rockfax guidebook

Climbing guidebooks are used by mountaineers, alpinists and rock climbers to locate, assess, and navigate climbing routes on mountains or crags. Many guidebooks also offer condensed information about local restaurants, bars, and camping areas; often include sections on geology and local climbing history; and may contain many pictures to inspire climbers. Guidebooks may range in size from pamphlets detailing dozens of routes up to tomes that document thousands of routes. The library of the American Alpine Club contains over 20,000 books and videos, a majority of which are such guidebooks. [1] In the Alps the Alpine Club Guide series is very comprehensive.

Contents

Route descriptions

Guidebooks can indicate locations by verbal descriptions (for example" start in the third left-facing corner below the large, orange roof, left of the route "Something Interesting"). Starting in the 1980s, a diagram-style was developed, with the detailed diagrams of the routes, called "topos" (probably from French). [2]

Route descriptions typically include information about the length of a route and its grade (difficulty). The description can also include varying amounts of information about how to climb the route, such as the location of the crux, special techniques needed, and amount and type of gear needed. When this information is very detailed it is collectively known as beta. In a definitive guide, the route's history (credits for first ascents etc.) would also be included. [3]

Publication

Guidebooks may be compilations of selected popular routes, or exhaustive references. They may be published by national/regional mountaineering bodies, commercial publishers, or self-published by local enthusiasts. They are almost always sold in climbing shops near the areas described (or in general shops in areas too small for a climbing shop), but are also often distributed internationally. [2]

As climbing areas develop, it is usually necessary to publish new editions of guidebooks every several years. In the interim, "new routes" updates are published, either as printed booklets or online. [2]

In recent years, many climbing guidebooks have been published in digital format, often for display in smartphone applications. This medium offers the benefit of frequent or continuous updates, as well as rapid searching, and even, in some cases, GPS navigation. [2]

Influence

Climbing guidebooks are important to the culture of climbing, transmitting history and stories down through the ages, and delineating what is considered good style in a particular area. The upcoming publication of a new guidebook of the area often leads to a flurry of climbers establishing new routes there (because one can clearly see the parts of rock terrain which are still unclimbed). [2]

See also

Related Research Articles

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Mountaineering, mountain climbing, or alpinism is a set of outdoor activities that involves ascending mountains. Mountaineering-related activities include traditional outdoor climbing, skiing, and traversing via ferratas that have become sports in their own right. Indoor climbing, sport climbing, and bouldering are also considered variants of mountaineering by some, but are part of a wide group of mountain sports.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Grade (climbing)</span> Degree of difficulty of a climbing route

Many climbing routes have a grade that reflects the technical difficulty—and in some cases the risks and commitment level—of the route. The first ascensionist can suggest a grade, but it will be amended to reflect the consensus view of subsequent ascents. While many countries with a strong tradition of climbing developed grading systems, a small number of grading systems have become internationally dominant for each type of climbing, which has contributed to the standardization of grades worldwide. Over the years, grades have consistently risen in all forms of climbing, helped by improvements in climbing technique and equipment.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Scrambling</span> Walk up steep terrain involving the use of ones hands

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">Climbing route</span> Path to scale a mountain, rock, or ice wall

A climbing route is a path by which a climber reaches the top of a mountain, or rock/ice-covered obstacle. The details of a climbing route are recorded in a climbing guidebook and/or in an online climbing route database, and will include elements such as the type of climbing route, the difficulty grade of the route–and beta on its crux(es)–and any risk or commitment grade, the length and number of pitches of the route, and the climbing equipment needed to complete the route.

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">Peak bagging</span> Goal to reach a collection of summits

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">Beta (climbing)</span> Climbing term for route information

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The New Zealand Alpine Club (NZAC) was founded in 1891 and is one of the oldest alpine clubs in the world. The NZAC is the national climbing organisation in New Zealand and is a member of the Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme. It has over 4000 members who are spread across twelve sections, eleven in New Zealand and one in Australia, plus members in other countries. It runs a national office based in Christchurch.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Ailladie</span> Limestone sea cliff in the Burren, Ireland

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">Topo (climbing)</span> Graphical representation of a climbing route

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">Andy Nisbet</span> Scottish mountaineer (1953-2019)

Andrew Nisbet was a Scottish mountaineer, guide, climbing instructor, and editor of climbing guidebooks. Regarded as a pioneer of mixed rock and ice climbing techniques, he built a 45-year reputation as an innovator by developing over 1,000 new winter climbing routes in Scotland, of which 150 were at Grade V, or above.

Rock climbing in New Zealand, as a sport in its own right, emerged in the late 1960s and early 1970s. While it has been practiced at least since the late 1800s it was largely considered as training for mountaineering. But by 1968 the first dedicated rock climbing guide had been published by the University of Canterbury tramping club, and the following decade saw a rapid improvement in standards and the introduction of new technologies and approaches including the bolting of routes that paved the way for sport climbing to emerge as an alternative to traditional route protection. Pursuit of trad climbing, sport climbing and bouldering all began developing their distinct trajectories separate from each other and from mountaineering.

References

  1. "Henry S. Hall Jr. American Alpine Club Library - American Alpine Club". Archived from the original on 2015-03-13. Retrieved 2015-02-27.
  2. 1 2 3 4 5 Adamson, Michael (6 February 2009). "The Guidebook Odyssey – Unearthing the epic task of writing a guidebook". Climbing . Retrieved 26 August 2023.
  3. Ryan, Mick; James, Alan (July 2002). How to write ... a MiniGuide (PDF). RockFax. pp. 1–15. Retrieved 26 August 2023.