Sport climbing at the 2018 Summer Youth Olympics

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Sport Climbing
at the III Summer Youth Olympic Games
Sport climbing 2018 YOG.png
Venue Parque Urbano
Dates7–10 October
No. of events2 (1 boys, 1 girls)
Competitors42 (21 boys, 21 girls)
2026  

Sport climbing at the 2018 Summer Youth Olympics was held from 7 to 10 October. The competition took place at the Parque Urbano in Puerto Madero, Buenos Aires, Argentina. This marked the debut of the sport at the Youth Olympics.

Qualification

Each National Olympic Committee (NOC) could enter a maximum of 4 competitors, 2 per each gender event. As hosts, Argentina was given 2 quotas, 1 per each gender event provided that they participate at the Youth World Championships. A further 2 quotas, 1 in each gender could be allocated by the Tripartite Commission. The remaining 36 places shall be decided in two qualification phases; the 2017 Youth World Championship and five continental championships. [1]

Shortly before the deadline for entries in September, The IOC informed the IFSC 1 additional female athlete and 1 additional male athlete were added to the quota for Sport Climbing, raising the number of qualified athletes to 21 female athletes and 21 male athletes. [2]

To be eligible to participate at the Youth Olympics athletes needed to have been born between 1 January 2000 and 31 December 2001. [1]

Although two athletes from the United States, Ashima Shiraishi and Brooke Raboutou, finished second and third at the Youth World Championship and were included on preliminary lists of qualified athletes, the United States Olympic Committee declined to allow them to participate, citing a fixed limit on the total number of athletes that it could send to all events, and a low prioritization of the climbing event based on the fact that USA Climbing had applied for recognition by the USOC but not yet received it. [3] Similarly, Chinese female athlete Song Yi Ling qualified through the Youth World Championship but was not included on the final starting list of athletes for the Youth Olympics. [4]

The qualified athletes were as follows: [5]

Boys

EventLocationDateTotal PlacesQualified
Host Nation--0 1Flag of Argentina.svg  Argentina
2017 World Youth Championship [6] Flag of Austria.svg Innsbruck 30 Aug–10 Sept 201715Flag of France.svg  Sam Avezou  (FRA)

Flag of Italy.svg  Filip Schenk  (ITA)
Flag of Bulgaria.svg  Petar Ivanov  (BUL)
Flag of France.svg Nathan Martin (FRA)
Flag of Japan.svg  Keita Dohi  (JPN)
Flag of Japan.svg  Shuta Tanaka  (JPN)
Flag of the People's Republic of China.svg  YuFei Pan  (CHN)
Flag of the People's Republic of China.svg  DiChong Huang  (CHN)
Flag of Spain.svg  Mikel Asier Linacisoro Molina  (ESP)
Flag of Slovakia.svg  Peter Kuric  (SVK)
Flag of South Korea.svg  Seongmin Eom  (KOR)
Flag of Austria.svg  Nicolai Uznik  (AUT)
Flag of Singapore.svg  Mark Chan Chong Kiat  (SGP)
Flag of Belgium (civil).svg  Lukas Franckaert  (BEL)
Flag of South Korea.svg  Donghyun Jang  (KOR)

2017 Asian Youth Championship [7] Flag of Singapore.svg Singapore 5–9 July 20171Flag of India.svg  Bharath Pereira  (IND)
2017 Oceania Youth Championship [8] Flags of New Caledonia.svg Nouméa 13–15 October 20171Flag of Australia.svg  Ned Middlehurst  (AUS)
2017 Pan American Youth Championship [9] Flag of Canada (Pantone).svg Montreal 30 Oct–5 Nov 20172Flag of Ecuador.svg  Galo Hernandez  (ECU)
Flag of Ecuador.svg  Rivadeneira Nickolaie  (ECU)
2017 European Youth Championship [10] Flag of France.svg Saint-Étienne 25–26 November 20171Flag of Ukraine.svg  Yaroslav Tkach  (UKR)
2017 African Youth Championship [11] Flag of South Africa.svg Johannesburg 8 December 20171Flag of South Africa.svg  David Naudé  (RSA)
TOTAL21

Girls

EventLocationDateTotal PlacesQualified
Host Nation--1Flag of Argentina.svg  Valentina Aguado  (ARG)
2017 World Youth Championship [6] Flag of Austria.svg Innsbruck 30 Aug–10 Sept 201714

Flag of Austria.svg  Sandra Lettner  (AUT)
Flag of Russia.svg  Elena Krasovskaia  (RUS)
Flag of Italy.svg  Laura Rogora  (ITA)
Flag of Austria.svg  Laura Lammer  (AUT)
Flag of Russia.svg  Luiza Emeleva  (RUS)
Flag of Poland.svg  Aleksandra Kałucka  (POL)
Flag of Slovenia.svg  Lučka Rakovec  (SLO)
Flag of Germany.svg  Hannah Meul  (GER)
Flag of Slovenia.svg  Vita Lukan  (SLO)
Flag of France.svg  Lucile Saurel  (FRA)
Flag of Switzerland.svg  Annalisa Tognon  (SUI)
Flag of Switzerland.svg  Hannah Hermann  (SUI)
Flag of Poland.svg  Natalia Kałucka  (POL)
Flag of Thailand.svg  Narada Disyabut  (THA)

2017 Asian Youth Championship [7] Flag of Singapore.svg Singapore 5–9 July 20171Flag of Japan.svg  Mao Nakamura  (JPN)
2017 Oceania Youth Championship [8] Flags of New Caledonia.svg Nouméa 13–15 October 20171Flag of New Zealand.svg  Sarah Tetzlaff  (NZL)
2017 Pan American Youth Championship [12] Flag of Canada (Pantone).svg Montreal 30 Oct–5 Nov 20172Flag of Chile.svg  Alejandra Contreras  (CHI)
Flag of Canada (Pantone).svg  Cat Carkner  (CAN)
2017 European Youth Championship [13] Flag of France.svg Saint-Étienne 25–26 November 20171Flag of France.svg  Nolwenn Arc  (FRA)
2017 African Youth Championship [11] Flag of South Africa.svg Johannesburg 8 December 20171Flag of South Africa.svg  Angela Eckhardt  (RSA)
TOTAL21

Schedule

The competition followed the Olympic format, [14] with each athlete competing in Speed, Bouldering and then Lead. The ranking was calculated by multiplying the placing in the individual events, with a lower combined score resulting in a better ranking. The top 6 ranked athletes progressed to the final. [15]

QQualifiersFFinal
Event ↓ / Date →Sun 7Mon 8Tue 9Wed 10
Girls' CombinedQF
Boys' CombinedQF

Medal summary

Medal table

RankNationGoldSilverBronzeTotal
1Flag of Japan.svg  Japan 1102
2Flag of Austria.svg  Austria 1012
3Flag of Slovenia.svg  Slovenia 0101
4Flag of France.svg  France 0011
Totals (4 entries)2226

Events

EventGoldSilverBronze
Boys' combined
details
Keita Dohi
Flag of Japan.svg  Japan
Shuta Tanaka
Flag of Japan.svg  Japan
Sam Avezou
Flag of France.svg  France
Girls' combined
details
Sandra Lettner
Flag of Austria.svg  Austria
Vita Lukan
Flag of Slovenia.svg  Slovenia
Laura Lammer
Flag of Austria.svg  Austria

Related Research Articles

USA Climbing is the national governing body of the sport of competition climbing in the United States. As a 501(c)3 non-profit, they promote Sport Climbing which comprises three competition disciplines: bouldering, lead climbing, and speed climbing, in elite, youth and collegiate formats.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Margo Hayes</span> American rock climber

Margo Hayes is an American professional rock climber from Boulder, Colorado. In 2016, she won both the competition bouldering and the competition lead climbing events at the IFSC Climbing World Youth Championships in Guangzhou (China). In 2017, she became the first woman in history to climb a 9a+ (5.15a) graded route, and in 2019, became the first woman to complete the "9a+ Trilogy".

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Spain at the 2018 Summer Youth Olympics</span> Sporting event delegation

Spain competed at the 2018 Summer Youth Olympics, in Buenos Aires, Argentina from 6 to 18 October 2018.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">China at the 2018 Summer Youth Olympics</span> Sporting event delegation

China competed at the 2018 Summer Youth Olympics, in Buenos Aires, Argentina from 6 October to 18 October 2018.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Russia at the 2018 Summer Youth Olympics</span> Sporting event delegation

Russia competed at the 2018 Summer Youth Olympics, in Buenos Aires, Argentina from 6 to 18 October 2018. A total of 93 athletes competed in 24 sports. There were no Russian athletes in badminton, canoeing, equestrian, field hockey, golf, roller speed skating, rowing, rugby sevens and weightlifting.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Australia at the 2018 Summer Youth Olympics</span> Sporting event delegation

Australia participated at the 2018 Summer Youth Olympics in Buenos Aires, Argentina from 6 October to 18 October 2018.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">France at the 2018 Summer Youth Olympics</span> Sporting event delegation

France participated at the 2018 Summer Youth Olympics in Buenos Aires, Argentina from 6 October to 18 October 2018.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">India at the 2018 Summer Youth Olympics</span> Sporting event delegation

India participated at the 2018 Summer Youth Olympics in Buenos Aires, Argentina from 6 October to 18 October 2018. India managed their best ever medal haul of the Youth Olympics in this edition. Among the 206 participating nations, India ranked 17th on the medals tally.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Italy at the 2018 Summer Youth Olympics</span> Sporting event delegation

Italy participated at the 2018 Summer Youth Olympics in Buenos Aires, Argentina from 6 October to 18 October 2018.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Japan at the 2018 Summer Youth Olympics</span> Sporting event delegation

Japan participated at the 2018 Summer Youth Olympics in Buenos Aires, Argentina from 6 October to 18 October 2018. Japan competes in 23 events and brought home 39 medals. It was the rehearsal of the hosting Summer Olympics as Tokyo was the host of the 2020 games which was held from 23 July to 8 August 2021.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">South Korea at the 2018 Summer Youth Olympics</span> Sporting event delegation

South Korea participated at the 2018 Summer Youth Olympics in Buenos Aires, Argentina from 6 October to 18 October 2018.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">United States at the 2018 Summer Youth Olympics</span> Sporting event delegation

The United States participated at the 2018 Summer Youth Olympics in Buenos Aires, Argentina from 6 October to 18 October 2018.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Austria at the 2018 Summer Youth Olympics</span> Sporting event delegation

Austria participated at the 2018 Summer Youth Olympics in Buenos Aires, Argentina from 6 October to 18 October 2018.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">New Zealand at the 2018 Summer Youth Olympics</span> Sporting event delegation

New Zealand participated at the 2018 Summer Youth Olympics in Buenos Aires, Argentina, from 6 October to 18 October 2018.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">South Africa at the 2018 Summer Youth Olympics</span> Sporting event delegation

South Africa participated at the 2018 Summer Youth Olympics in Buenos Aires, Argentina from 6 October to 18 October 2018.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Poland at the 2018 Summer Youth Olympics</span> Sporting event delegation

Poland participated at the 2018 Summer Youth Olympics in Buenos Aires, Argentina from 6 October to 18 October 2018.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Chile at the 2018 Summer Youth Olympics</span> Sporting event delegation

Chile participated at the 2018 Summer Youth Olympics in Buenos Aires, Argentina from 6 October to 18 October 2018.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Ecuador at the 2018 Summer Youth Olympics</span> Sporting event delegation

Ecuador participated at the 2018 Summer Youth Olympics in Buenos Aires, Argentina from 6 October to 18 October 2018.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Slovenia at the 2018 Summer Youth Olympics</span> Sporting event delegation

Slovenia participated at the 2018 Summer Youth Olympics in Buenos Aires, Argentina from 6 October to 18 October 2018.

There were 40 quota spots available for sport climbing at the 2020 Summer Olympics. Each National Olympic Committee (NOC) could obtain a maximum of 2 spots in each event. Each event had 20 competitors qualify: 18 from qualifying, 1 from the host (Japan), and 1 from Tripartite Commission invitations.

References

  1. 1 2 "Qualification System: Sport Climbing" (PDF). IFSC . 29 August 2017. Retrieved 13 October 2017.
  2. "Sport Climbing YOG Quota Expands". Archived from the original on 2018-10-06. Retrieved 2018-10-05.
  3. Waggoner, Kynan (July 25, 2017). "Letter to Zach Galla, Ross Fulkerson, Brooke Raboutou, Ashima Shiraishi, and Arabella Jariel" (PDF). USA Climbing.
  4. "Qualified athletes for sport climbing" (PDF). IFSC . Retrieved 2018-10-05.
  5. International Federation of Sport Climbing. (3 October 2018). Youth Olympic Games Preview: Sport Climbing's Game Changers [Press Release]. http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/images/media-centre/2018/2018_IFSC_Official_Press_Release_YOG_Buenos_Aires_Preview.pdf
  6. 1 2 "World Youth Championship". IFSC . 10 September 2017. Retrieved 13 October 2017.
  7. 1 2 "Asian Youth Championship: Youth A Combined" (PDF). IFSC . 9 July 2017. Retrieved 3 August 2017.
  8. 1 2 "Oceania Youth Championship Combined Results" (PDF). IFSC . 15 October 2017. Retrieved 10 November 2017.
  9. "Pan American Youth Championship Male Combined Results". IFSC . 5 November 2017. Retrieved 10 November 2017.
  10. "European Youth Championship Male Combined Results". IFSC . 26 November 2017. Retrieved 15 December 2017.
  11. 1 2 "Africa Youth A Climbing Cup Winners" (PDF). IFSC . 8 December 2017. Retrieved 15 December 2017.
  12. "Pan American Youth Championship Female Combined Results". IFSC . 5 November 2017. Retrieved 10 November 2017.
  13. "European Championship Female Combined Results". IFSC . 26 November 2017. Retrieved 15 December 2017.
  14. "Youth Olympic Games Preview: Sport Climbing's Game Changers". Archived from the original on 2018-10-05. Retrieved 2018-10-05.
  15. International Federation of Sport Climbing. (9 February 2017). Sport Climbing Olympic Format [Press Release]. http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/images/media-centre/2017/2017_IFSC_Plenary_Assembly_Quebec_City_Olympic_Format.pdf