| Sport Climbing at the III Summer Youth Olympic Games | |
|---|---|
 | |
| Venue | Parque Urbano |
| Dates | 7–10 October |
| No. of events | 2 (1 boys, 1 girls) |
| Competitors | 42 (21 boys, 21 girls) |
| Sport climbing at the 2018 Summer Youth Olympics | ||
|---|---|---|
 | ||
| Combined | Boys | Girls |
Sport climbing at the 2018 Summer Youth Olympics was held from 7 to 10 October. The competition took place at the Parque Urbano in Puerto Madero, Buenos Aires, Argentina. This marked the debut of the sport at the Youth Olympics.
Each National Olympic Committee (NOC) could enter a maximum of 4 competitors, 2 per each gender event. As hosts, Argentina was given 2 quotas, 1 per each gender event provided that they participate at the Youth World Championships. A further 2 quotas, 1 in each gender could be allocated by the Tripartite Commission. The remaining 36 places shall be decided in two qualification phases; the 2017 Youth World Championship and five continental championships. [1]
Shortly before the deadline for entries in September, The IOC informed the IFSC 1 additional female athlete and 1 additional male athlete were added to the quota for Sport Climbing, raising the number of qualified athletes to 21 female athletes and 21 male athletes. [2]
To be eligible to participate at the Youth Olympics athletes needed to have been born between 1 January 2000 and 31 December 2001. [1]
Although two athletes from the United States, Ashima Shiraishi and Brooke Raboutou, finished second and third at the Youth World Championship and were included on preliminary lists of qualified athletes, the United States Olympic Committee declined to allow them to participate, citing a fixed limit on the total number of athletes that it could send to all events, and a low prioritization of the climbing event based on the fact that USA Climbing had applied for recognition by the USOC but not yet received it. [3] Similarly, Chinese female athlete Song Yi Ling qualified through the Youth World Championship but was not included on the final starting list of athletes for the Youth Olympics. [4]
The qualified athletes were as follows: [5]
| Event | Location | Date | Total Places | Qualified |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Host Nation | - | - | 0 |  Argentina |
| 2017 World Youth Championship [6] |  Innsbruck | 30 Aug–10 Sept 2017 | 15 |  Sam Avezou (FRA)
|
| 2017 Asian Youth Championship [7] |  Singapore | 5–9 July 2017 | 1 |  Bharath Pereira (IND) |
| 2017 Oceania Youth Championship [8] |  Nouméa | 13–15 October 2017 | 1 |  Ned Middlehurst (AUS) |
| 2017 Pan American Youth Championship [9] |  Montreal | 30 Oct–5 Nov 2017 | 2 |  Galo Hernandez (ECU) Rivadeneira Nickolaie (ECU) |
| 2017 European Youth Championship [10] |  Saint-Étienne | 25–26 November 2017 | 1 |  Yaroslav Tkach (UKR) |
| 2017 African Youth Championship [11] |  Johannesburg | 8 December 2017 | 1 |  David Naudé (RSA) |
| TOTAL | 21 |
| Event | Location | Date | Total Places | Qualified |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Host Nation | - | - | 1 | Valentina Aguado (ARG) |
| 2017 World Youth Championship [6] | Innsbruck | 30 Aug–10 Sept 2017 | 14 |
|
| 2017 Asian Youth Championship [7] | Singapore | 5–9 July 2017 | 1 |  Mao Nakamura (JPN) |
| 2017 Oceania Youth Championship [8] | Nouméa | 13–15 October 2017 | 1 |  Sarah Tetzlaff (NZL) |
| 2017 Pan American Youth Championship [12] | Montreal | 30 Oct–5 Nov 2017 | 2 |  Alejandra Contreras (CHI) Cat Carkner (CAN) |
| 2017 European Youth Championship [13] | Saint-Étienne | 25–26 November 2017 | 1 | Nolwenn Arc (FRA) |
| 2017 African Youth Championship [11] | Johannesburg | 8 December 2017 | 1 | Angela Eckhardt (RSA) |
| TOTAL | 21 |
The competition followed the Olympic format, [14] with each athlete competing in Speed, Bouldering and then Lead. The ranking was calculated by multiplying the placing in the individual events, with a lower combined score resulting in a better ranking. The top 6 ranked athletes progressed to the final. [15]
| Q | Qualifiers | F | Final |
| Event ↓ / Date → | Sun 7 | Mon 8 | Tue 9 | Wed 10 |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Girls' Combined | Q | F | ||
| Boys' Combined | Q | F |
| Rank | Nation | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Japan | 1 | 1 | 0 | 2 |
| 2 |  Austria | 1 | 0 | 1 | 2 |
| 3 |  Slovenia | 0 | 1 | 0 | 1 |
| 4 | France | 0 | 0 | 1 | 1 |
| Totals (4 entries) | 2 | 2 | 2 | 6 | |
| Event | Gold | Silver | Bronze |
|---|---|---|---|
| Boys' combined | Keita Dohi  Japan | Shuta Tanaka Japan | Sam Avezou France |
| Girls' combined | Sandra Lettner Austria | Vita Lukan  Slovenia | Laura Lammer Austria |
USA Climbing is the national governing body of the sport of competition climbing in the United States. As a 501(c)3 non-profit, they promote Sport Climbing which comprises three competition disciplines: bouldering, lead climbing, and speed climbing, in elite, youth and collegiate formats.
Margo Hayes is an American professional rock climber from Boulder, Colorado. In 2016, she won both the competition bouldering and the competition lead climbing events at the IFSC Climbing World Youth Championships in Guangzhou (China). In 2017, she became the first woman in history to climb a 9a+ (5.15a) graded route, and in 2019, became the first woman to complete the "9a+ Trilogy".
Spain competed at the 2018 Summer Youth Olympics, in Buenos Aires, Argentina from 6 to 18 October 2018.
China competed at the 2018 Summer Youth Olympics, in Buenos Aires, Argentina from 6 October to 18 October 2018.
Russia competed at the 2018 Summer Youth Olympics, in Buenos Aires, Argentina from 6 to 18 October 2018. A total of 93 athletes competed in 24 sports. There were no Russian athletes in badminton, canoeing, equestrian, field hockey, golf, roller speed skating, rowing, rugby sevens and weightlifting.
Australia participated at the 2018 Summer Youth Olympics in Buenos Aires, Argentina from 6 October to 18 October 2018.
France participated at the 2018 Summer Youth Olympics in Buenos Aires, Argentina from 6 October to 18 October 2018.
India participated at the 2018 Summer Youth Olympics in Buenos Aires, Argentina from 6 October to 18 October 2018. India managed their best ever medal haul of the Youth Olympics in this edition. Among the 206 participating nations, India ranked 17th on the medals tally.
Italy participated at the 2018 Summer Youth Olympics in Buenos Aires, Argentina from 6 October to 18 October 2018.
Japan participated at the 2018 Summer Youth Olympics in Buenos Aires, Argentina from 6 October to 18 October 2018. Japan competes in 23 events and brought home 39 medals. It was the rehearsal of the hosting Summer Olympics as Tokyo was the host of the 2020 games which was held from 23 July to 8 August 2021.
South Korea participated at the 2018 Summer Youth Olympics in Buenos Aires, Argentina from 6 October to 18 October 2018.
The United States participated at the 2018 Summer Youth Olympics in Buenos Aires, Argentina from 6 October to 18 October 2018.
Austria participated at the 2018 Summer Youth Olympics in Buenos Aires, Argentina from 6 October to 18 October 2018.
New Zealand participated at the 2018 Summer Youth Olympics in Buenos Aires, Argentina, from 6 October to 18 October 2018.
South Africa participated at the 2018 Summer Youth Olympics in Buenos Aires, Argentina from 6 October to 18 October 2018.
Poland participated at the 2018 Summer Youth Olympics in Buenos Aires, Argentina from 6 October to 18 October 2018.
Chile participated at the 2018 Summer Youth Olympics in Buenos Aires, Argentina from 6 October to 18 October 2018.
Ecuador participated at the 2018 Summer Youth Olympics in Buenos Aires, Argentina from 6 October to 18 October 2018.
Slovenia participated at the 2018 Summer Youth Olympics in Buenos Aires, Argentina from 6 October to 18 October 2018.
There were 40 quota spots available for sport climbing at the 2020 Summer Olympics. Each National Olympic Committee (NOC) could obtain a maximum of 2 spots in each event. Each event had 20 competitors qualify: 18 from qualifying, 1 from the host (Japan), and 1 from Tripartite Commission invitations.
