Kyra Condie

Last updated
Kyra Condie
2019 Sport & Speed Open Nationals - Awards - Kyra Condie - 01.jpg
Condie in 2019
Personal information
NationalityAmerican
Born (1996-06-05) June 5, 1996 (age 27)
Shoreview, Minnesota
Education University of Minnesota
Height5 ft 4 in (163 cm)
Website www.kyracondie.com
Climbing career
Type of climber
Highest grade
Medal record
Pan-American Championship
Gold medal icon (G initial).svg2018Combined

Kyra Condie (born June 5, 1996) is a rock climber who specializes in competition climbing and was one of four American rock climbers selected to represent Team USA at the 2020 Summer Olympic Games in Tokyo, Japan. [2] She placed 11th in the Women's Combined event in the sport of Sport Climbing. [2] In December 2019, she qualified for the 2020 Summer Olympics following her finish at the IFSC Combined Qualifier Toulouse 2019, becoming the second female American climber to do so. [3]

Contents

Climbing career

Competition climbing

Climbing stye

Condie has attributed her climbing style which relies more on muscles than technique to training mostly at a small Minneapolis gym with only a 45-degree spray wall and the difficulty she has twisting her body because of her fused spine. [1] During the pandemic, Condie found creative ways to continue her training at home, creating "off-the-wall" workouts with limited equipment and hanging from door frames. [7]

Personal life and education

Kyra Condie climbing indoors 2019 Sport & Speed Open Nationals - Semifinals - Kyra Condie - 01.jpg
Kyra Condie climbing indoors

Condie underwent vertebrate surgery at age 13 to correct spinal deformation. [8] Having been bullied throughout most of her childhood, Condie trained alone through college. [9] During the 2016 IFSC Climbing World Cup, Condie befriended Canadian climber and fellow Minnesota native Allison Vest. In 2018, Condie moved to train in Salt Lake City after graduating from the University of Minnesota. [3] In spring 2020, with climbing competitions cancelled due to the COVID-19 pandemic, Vest moved in with Condie so they could train together at the USA Climbing Training Center in Salt Lake City. The pair began documenting their training on their shared TikTok account, "Climbing Roommates". [9]

In 2021, Condie was named to Forbes' "30 Under 30" list in the Sports category [10] and Sports Illustrated's "Fittest 50 Athletes in Sports" for that year. [7] In 2022, Condie and Vest launched the podcast "Circle Up with Allison and Kyra", creating 30 minute episodes on climbing, motivation, body image and mindset. [11]

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Competition climbing</span> Competitive rock climbing

Competition climbing is a form of regulated rock climbing competition held indoors on purpose-built artificial climbing walls. The three competition climbing disciplines are lead climbing, bouldering, and speed climbing. The result of multiple disciplines can be used in a "combined" format to determine an all-round winner. Competition climbing is sometimes called "sport climbing", which is the name given to pre-bolted lead climbing.

The IFSC Climbing World Championships are the biennial world championship event for competition climbing that is organized by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC). This event determines the male and female world champions in the three disciplines of competition climbing: competition lead climbing, competition bouldering, and competition speed climbing. Since 2012, a combined ranking is also determined, for climbers competing in all disciplines, and additional medals are awarded based on that ranking. The first event was organized in Frankfurt in 1991.

USA Climbing is the national governing body of the sport of competition climbing in the United States. As a 501(c)3 non-profit, they promote Sport Climbing which comprises three competition disciplines: bouldering, lead climbing, and speed climbing, in elite, youth and collegiate formats.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Shauna Coxsey</span> English rock climber

Shauna Coxsey is an English professional rock climber. She is the most successful competition climber in the UK, having won the IFSC Bouldering World Cup Season in both 2016 and 2017. She retired from competition climbing after competing in the 2020 Olympics.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Brooke Raboutou</span> American rock climber

Brooke Raboutou is an American professional rock climber who specializes in competition climbing where she competes as part of the US National Team. She competed at the 2020 Summer Olympic Games and represents the United States at IFSC Climbing World Cups.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Janja Garnbret</span> Slovenian rock climber

Janja Garnbret is a Slovenian professional rock climber who specializes in sport climbing and competition climbing, and who has won multiple competition lead climbing and competition bouldering events. In 2021, she became the first-ever female Olympic gold medalist in climbing and is widely regarded as one of the greatest competition climbers of all time. She is also the world's first-ever female climber to onsight an 8c (5.14b) graded sport climbing route. As of 2023, Garnbret had won the most IFSC gold medals of any competition climber in history.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Sport climbing at the 2020 Summer Olympics</span> Sport climbing events at the 2020 Summer Olympics

Competition climbing made its Olympic debut at the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo, Japan. Two events were held, one each for men and women. The format controversially consisted of one combined event with three disciplines: lead climbing, speed climbing and bouldering. The medals were determined based on best performance across all three disciplines. This format was previously tested at the 2018 Summer Youth Olympics. The Olympic code for sports climbing is CLB.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Akiyo Noguchi</span> Japanese climber

Akiyo Noguchi is a Japanese professional rock climber who specializes in competition bouldering as well as outdoor bouldering and sport climbing.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Tomoa Narasaki</span> Japanese rock climber

Tomoa Narasaki is a Japanese professional rock climber who specializes in bouldering and competition bouldering.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Miho Nonaka</span> Japanese rock climber

Miho Nonaka is a Japanese competition climber who specializes in competition bouldering. She competed at the 2020 Summer Olympics, in Women's combined, winning a silver medal.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Futaba Ito</span> Japanese climber

Futaba Ito is a Japanese professional rock climber, sport climber and boulderer. She participates in both bouldering and lead climbing competitions. She won the IFSC Climbing Asian Youth Championships in lead and bouldering events in 2016, as well as Bouldering Japan Cup in 2017. She participated in combined and speed events at the 2018 Asian Games.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Aleksandra Mirosław</span> Polish speed climber (born 1994)

Aleksandra Mirosław is a Polish competition speed climber and a two-time women's speed world champion as well as the current women's competition speed climbing world record holder.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Petra Klingler</span> Swiss rock and ice climber

Petra Klingler is a Swiss rock climber who specializes in competition climbing. Known as a versatile climber, she competes in a wide range of competitive events, including competition bouldering, competition speed climbing, competition lead climbing, and also competition ice climbing.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Ai Mori</span> Japanese rock climber (born 2003)

Ai Mori is a Japanese professional rock climber who specializes in competition climbing and the disciplines of competition lead climbing and competition bouldering. At the 2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships, she became the youngest Japanese athlete to finish in a podium place in the competition, third in lead. She has won Japan Cup titles in both bouldering and lead disciplines and has multiple IFSC Climbing World Cup podium finishes, including three gold medals in World Cup events in the 2022 season. At the 2023 IFSC Climbing World Championships, Mori won the gold medal in lead, becoming the first Japanese athlete to win a World Championships lead title.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Laura Rogora</span> Italian rock climber

Laura Rogora is an Italian rock climber who specializes in sport climbing and in competition climbing. In 2021, she became the third-ever female climber in history to redpoint a 9b (5.15b)-graded sport climbing route, with her ascent of Erebor in Italy.

Allison Vest is a Canadian rock climber known for competition climbing, bouldering and sport climbing. She won the Canadian Bouldering Nationals in 2018 and 2020. She also came first in Canadian Lead Nationals in 2019, and placed 10th in the World Beach Games in Doha, Qatar in 2019. In August 2019, Vest became the first female Canadian climber to a conquer a V13 (8B) graded boulder, with The Terminator, in Squamish, British Columbia. This feat was documented in the 2020 film The Terminator, which premiered at the Vancouver International Mountain Film Festival on March 1, 2020.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Alannah Yip</span> Canadian rock climber

Alannah Yip is a Canadian rock climber who specializes in competition climbing. She was the national champion in her age category when she was twelve. She won a gold medal at the American Climbing Championships 2020 in Los Angeles, which qualified her for the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Mickaël Mawem</span> French rock climber (born 1990)

Mickaël Mawem is a French professional rock climber who specializes in competition bouldering. He is the 2023 World boulder champion. He qualified for the 2020 Summer Olympics by finishing 7th at the 2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships. He also won the bouldering event in the 2019 IFSC Climbing European Championships, and at the 2023 World Championships at Bern.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Oceana Mackenzie</span> Australian rock climber

Oceana Mackenzie, also known as Oceania Mackenzie, is an Australian rock climber and competition climber who specializes in competition bouldering

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Sport climbing at the 2024 Summer Olympics</span> Sport climbing events at the 2024 Summer Olympics

Competition climbing at the 2024 Summer Olympics is scheduled to run from 5 to 10 August at Le Bourget Sport Climbing Venue in Saint-Denis, returning to the program for the second time since the sport's official debut three years earlier in Tokyo 2020. The total number of medal events will double from two in the previous edition, separating the boulder-and-lead tandem from the speed format. Furthermore, Paris 2024 will witness a significant rise in the number of sport climbers competing contrary to Tokyo 2020, expanding the roster size from 40 to 68.

References

  1. 1 2 3 Chrobak, Ula (October 16, 2019). "The Climbing Q&A: Kyra Condie". Climbing . Retrieved 2020-01-09.
  2. 1 2 3 "Kyra Condie". Olympics.com. Retrieved April 10, 2023.
  3. 1 2 "Kyra Condie, decade after severe back surgery, qualifies for Olympic sport climbing". NBC Sports. November 29, 2019.
  4. ↑ "Kyra CONDIE". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2023-04-10.
  5. ↑ "Local climbers rock First U.S. Combined competition, inch toward Olympics". www.dailycamera.com. 22 January 2019. Retrieved 2019-04-18.
  6. ↑ "IFSC PanAmerican Championship (L, S, B, C) - Guayaquil (ECU) 2018". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2019-04-18.
  7. 1 2 "Most Fit Athletes in Sports on SI's Fittest 50 List 2021". Sports Illustrated. May 5, 2021. Retrieved April 10, 2023.
  8. ↑ "Interview with Mountain Hardwear". Kyra Condie. Retrieved 2019-04-18.
  9. 1 2 Schneider, Ari (February 8, 2021). "Life at Home With the BFF Rock Climbers Redefining the Sport". Vogue .
  10. ↑ "Forbes 30 Under 30 2021: Sports". Forbes. Retrieved 2023-04-10.
  11. ↑ "Circle Up!". Spotify. Retrieved 2023-04-10.
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