Kyra Condie

Last updated
Kyra Condie
2019 Sport & Speed Open Nationals - Awards - Kyra Condie - 01.jpg
Condie in 2019
Personal information
NationalityAmerican
Born (1996-06-05) June 5, 1996 (age 28)
Shoreview, Minnesota
Education University of Minnesota
Height5 ft 4 in (163 cm)
Website www.kyracondie.com
Climbing career
Type of climber
Highest grade
Medal record
Pan-American Championship
Gold medal icon (G initial).svg2018Combined

Kyra Condie (born June 5, 1996) is a rock climber who specializes in competition climbing and was one of four American rock climbers selected to represent Team USA at the 2020 Summer Olympic Games in Tokyo, Japan. [2] She placed 11th in the Women's Combined event in the sport of Sport Climbing. [2] In December 2019, she qualified for the 2020 Summer Olympics following her finish at the IFSC Combined Qualifier Toulouse 2019, becoming the second female American climber to do so. [3]

Contents

Climbing career

Competition climbing

Climbing style

Condie has attributed her climbing style, which relies more on muscles than technique, to training mostly at a small Minneapolis gym with only a 45-degree spray wall, and the difficulty she has twisting her body because of her fused spine. [1] During the pandemic, Condie found creative ways to continue her training at home, creating "off-the-wall" workouts with limited equipment and hanging from door frames. [7]

Personal life and education

Kyra Condie climbing indoors 2019 Sport & Speed Open Nationals - Semifinals - Kyra Condie - 01.jpg
Kyra Condie climbing indoors

Condie underwent vertebrate surgery at age 13 to correct spinal deformation. [8] Having been bullied throughout most of her childhood, Condie trained alone through college. [9] During the 2016 IFSC Climbing World Cup, Condie befriended Canadian climber and fellow Minnesota native Allison Vest. In 2018, Condie moved to train in Salt Lake City after graduating from the University of Minnesota. [3] In spring 2020, with climbing competitions cancelled due to the COVID-19 pandemic, Vest moved in with Condie so they could train together at the USA Climbing Training Center in Salt Lake City. The pair began documenting their training on their shared TikTok account, "Climbing Roommates". [9]

In 2021, Condie was named to Forbes' "30 Under 30" list in the Sports category [10] and Sports Illustrated's "Fittest 50 Athletes in Sports" for that year. [7] In 2022, Condie and Vest launched the podcast "Circle Up with Allison and Kyra", creating 30 minute episodes on climbing, motivation, body image and mindset. [11]

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Competition climbing</span> Competitive rock climbing

Competition climbing is a form of regulated rock climbing competition held indoors on purpose-built artificial climbing walls. The three competition climbing disciplines are lead climbing, bouldering, and speed climbing. The result of multiple disciplines can be used in a "combined" format to determine an all-round winner. Competition climbing is sometimes called "sport climbing", which is the name given to pre-bolted lead climbing.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Speed climbing</span> Type of climbing

Speed climbing is a climbing discipline in which speed is the ultimate goal. Speed climbing is done on rocks, walls and poles and is only recommended for highly skilled and experienced climbers.

USA Climbing is the national governing body of the sport of competition climbing in the United States. As a 501(c)3 non-profit, they promote Sport Climbing which comprises three competition disciplines: bouldering, lead climbing, and speed climbing, in elite, youth and collegiate formats.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Shauna Coxsey</span> English rock climber

Shauna Coxsey is an English professional rock climber. She is the most successful competition climber in the UK, having won the IFSC Bouldering World Cup Season in both 2016 and 2017. She retired from competition after competing in the 2020 Olympics., and continues to climb at a high level outdoors.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Brooke Raboutou</span> American rock climber

Brooke Raboutou is a French-American professional rock climber who specializes in competition climbing where she competes as part of the US National Team. She won the silver medal in the combined bouldering and lead climbing event at the 2024 Summer Olympics.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Janja Garnbret</span> Slovenian rock climber

Janja Garnbret is a Slovenian professional rock climber who specializes in sport climbing and competition climbing. She has won multiple competition lead climbing and competition bouldering events, two Olympic gold medals, and is widely regarded as the greatest competition climber of all time. In 2021, Garnbret became the first-ever female Olympic gold medalist in climbing, and successfully defended her title in 2024. With two gold medals, she is the most successful Slovenian athlete at the Summer Olympics. She is also the world's first-ever female climber to onsight an 8c (5.14b) graded sport climbing route.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Sport climbing at the 2020 Summer Olympics</span> Sport climbing events at the 2020 Summer Olympics

Competition climbing made its Olympic debut at the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo, Japan. Two events were held, one each for men and women. The format controversially consisted of one combined event with three disciplines: lead climbing, speed climbing and bouldering. The medals were determined based on best performance across all three disciplines. This format was previously tested at the 2018 Summer Youth Olympics. The Olympic code for sports climbing is CLB.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Akiyo Noguchi</span> Japanese climber (born 1989)

Akiyo Noguchi is a Japanese professional rock climber who specializes in competition bouldering as well as outdoor bouldering and sport climbing.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Tomoa Narasaki</span> Japanese rock climber (born 1996)

Tomoa Narasaki is a Japanese professional rock climber who specializes in bouldering and competition bouldering.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Sport climbing at the Summer Olympics</span>

Competition climbing has been held at two editions of the Summer Olympic Games. First selected as one of the discretionary sports at the 2020 and 2024 games, sport climbing will be inducted as one of the mandatory sports at the 2028 games. Athletes compete in the disciplines of bouldering, lead climbing, and speed climbing. All three were contested as a single event in the 2020 programme, while speed climbing was spun off into its own event in the 2024 programme. Slovenia have won the most gold medals (2), while Austria, Japan, and the United States have won the most medals overall.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Aleksandra Mirosław</span> Polish speed climber (born 1994)

Aleksandra (Ola) Mirosław is a Polish soldier and competition speed climber. She is a two-time women's speed world champion as well as the current women's competition speed climbing world record holder. Mirosław won the gold medal at the 2024 Summer Olympics in the speed climbing event, becoming the first ever Olympic champion in this event.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Ai Mori</span> Japanese rock climber (born 2003)

Ai Mori is a Japanese professional rock climber who specializes in competition lead climbing and competition bouldering.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Oriane Bertone</span> French rock climber (born 2005)

Oriane Bertone is a French rock climber, who specializes in competition climbing, but is also noted for her sport climbing and her bouldering.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Seo Chae-hyun</span> South Korean rock climber

Seo Chae-hyun, also known as Chaehyun Seo, is a South Korean professional rock climber who specializes in competition climbing. She won the overall 2019 World Cup title in competition lead climbing in her senior debut season. In 2021 she won the IFSC World Championship in lead climbing. Seo is a two-time Olympian, having represented South Korea at the 2020 and 2024 Summer Olympics.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Laura Rogora</span> Italian rock climber

Laura Rogora is an Italian rock climber who specializes in sport climbing and in competition climbing. In 2021, she became the third-ever female climber in history to redpoint a 9b (5.15b)-graded sport climbing route, with her ascent of Erebor in Italy.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Mia Krampl</span> Slovene rock climber (born 2000)

Mia Krampl is a Slovenian rock climber who specialises in competition climbing. In 2019, she finished second in lead at the IFSC Climbing World Championships and qualified to compete at the 2020 Summer Olympic Games by finishing third at the IFSC Combined Qualifier in Toulouse. Krampl also has a pair of podium finishes at the IFSC World Youth Championships, as well as two gold and one bronze medal at the European Youth Championships.

Allison Vest is a Canadian rock climber known for competition climbing, bouldering and sport climbing. She won the Canadian Bouldering Nationals in 2018 and 2020. She also came first in Canadian Lead Nationals in 2019, and placed 10th in the World Beach Games in Doha, Qatar in 2019. In August 2019, Vest became the first female Canadian climber to a conquer a V13 (8B) graded boulder, with The Terminator, in Squamish, British Columbia. This feat was documented in the 2020 film The Terminator, which premiered at the Vancouver International Mountain Film Festival on March 1, 2020.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Alannah Yip</span> Canadian rock climber

Alannah Yip is a Canadian rock climber who specializes in competition climbing. She was the national champion in her age category when she was twelve. She won a gold medal at the American Climbing Championships 2020 in Los Angeles, which qualified her for the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Oceana Mackenzie</span> Australian rock climber

Oceania "Oceana" Mackenzie is an Australian rock climber and competition climber who specializes in competition bouldering. She competed in the 2020 Summer Olympics, coming 19th, and in the 2024 Summer Olympics, coming 7th.

Lauren Mukheibir is a South African rock climber who specializes in competition climbing. As of 2024, Mukheibir is the reigning female African Champion in the women's combined bouldering-and-lead category, and she represented South Africa in that category at the 2024 Summer Olympics.

References

  1. 1 2 3 Chrobak, Ula (October 16, 2019). "The Climbing Q&A: Kyra Condie". Climbing . Retrieved 2020-01-09.
  2. 1 2 3 "Kyra Condie". Olympics.com. Retrieved April 10, 2023.
  3. 1 2 "Kyra Condie, decade after severe back surgery, qualifies for Olympic sport climbing". NBC Sports. November 29, 2019.
  4. ↑ "Kyra CONDIE". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2023-04-10.
  5. ↑ "Local climbers rock First U.S. Combined competition, inch toward Olympics". www.dailycamera.com. 22 January 2019. Retrieved 2019-04-18.
  6. ↑ "IFSC PanAmerican Championship (L, S, B, C) - Guayaquil (ECU) 2018". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2019-04-18.
  7. 1 2 "Most Fit Athletes in Sports on SI's Fittest 50 List 2021". Sports Illustrated. May 5, 2021. Retrieved April 10, 2023.
  8. ↑ "Interview with Mountain Hardwear". Kyra Condie. Retrieved 2019-04-18.
  9. 1 2 Schneider, Ari (February 8, 2021). "Life at Home With the BFF Rock Climbers Redefining the Sport". Vogue .
  10. ↑ "Forbes 30 Under 30 2021: Sports". Forbes. Retrieved 2023-04-10.
  11. ↑ "Circle Up!". Spotify. Retrieved 2023-04-10.
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