Margo Hayes

Last updated

Margo Hayes
2019 Sport & Speed Open Nationals - Awards - Margo Hayes - 01.jpg
2019 Sport & Speed Open Nationals
Personal information
NationalityAmerican
Born (1998-02-11) February 11, 1998 (age 26) [1]
Boulder, Colorado, U.S.
OccupationProfessional rock climber
Climbing career
Type of climber
Highest grade
Known for
  • First-ever female to climb at 9a+  (5.15a)
  • First-ever female to complete the "9a+ Trilogy"
Medal record
World Youth Championships
Silver medal icon (S initial).svg2015Lead
Silver medal icon (S initial).svg2015Bouldering
Gold medal icon (G initial).svg2016Lead
Gold medal icon (G initial).svg2016Boudering
Gold medal icon (G initial).svg2016Combined
Bronze medal icon (B initial).svg2017Combined
Updated on June 29, 2022

Margo Hayes (born February 11, 1998) [1] is an American professional rock climber from Boulder, Colorado. In 2016, she won both the competition bouldering and the competition lead climbing events at the IFSC Climbing World Youth Championships in Guangzhou (China). In 2017, she became the first woman in history to climb a 9a+  (5.15a) graded route, and in 2019, became the first woman to complete the "9a+ Trilogy".

Contents

Early life

Originally a gymnast who trained at CATS Gymnastics in Boulder, [2] Hayes began climbing at age 10. [3] She joined Team ABC, a renowned youth climbing program in Boulder, where she was coached by Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou. [2] Hayes' grandfather, Dr. James Morrissey, led the first successful climb of the Kangshung Face on Mt. Everest and her father spent time climbing in Yosemite Valley. [2]

Climbing career

Competition climbing

As part of the US National Team, Hayes has competed in all three disciplines (lead climbing, speed climbing, and bouldering) of the International Federation of Sport Climbing competitions. In 2015, at the IFSC World Youth Championships in Arco, Italy Hayes won silver both in bouldering and lead, behind Janja Garnbret. [4]

In 2016, at the IFSC World Youth Championships in Guangzhou (China), she competed in the Juniors category, winning both the bouldering and lead events, placing 15th in speed, and placing first in the overall standings. [5]

Hayes was one of four women to earn a spot on the 2019 U.S. Overall National Team as a first step to qualifying for the 2020 Olympics climbing competition. [6]

Sport climbing

In 2016, Hayes won a Golden Piton Award  [ fr ] in the Sport Climbing category from Climbing Magazine for successfully climbing 14 routes graded 5.14. [7]

On February 26, 2017, Hayes became the first-ever woman in history to climb a 9a+  (5.15a) graded route when she ascended La Rambla , in Siurana, Spain). [8] On September 24, 2017, she also completed the third-ever female ascent of a 9a+  (5.15a) when she ascended Realization/Biographie , in Céüse, in France. [9] In March 2019, Hayes completed her third 9a+  (5.15a), climbing Papichulo at Oliana, Spain, and thus completing the trilogy of the "benchmark" and most notable 9a+  (5.15a) graded routes. [10]

Personal life

In 2016 she won a prize in a scholastic art show. [11]

On the 21st of March 2024, she released her first single, 'Karma', produced by Luis Calderon. [12]

Rankings [13]

Notable ascents

Redpointed routes

9a+  (5.15a):

9a  (5.14d):

  • Bad Girls Club – Wicked Cave (Rifle Mountain Park. (USA) – August 2016 – First female ascent. [19]

8c+  (5.14c):

  • The Crew – Rifle Mountain Park (Colorado, (USA) – June 2016. [20]

Filmography

See also

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Sport climbing</span> Type of rock climbing

Sport climbing is a type of free climbing in rock climbing where the lead climber clips into pre-drilled permanent bolts for their protection while ascending a route. Sport climbing differs from the riskier traditional climbing where the lead climber has to insert temporary protection equipment while ascending.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Chris Sharma</span> American rock climber

Chris Omprakash Sharma is an American rock climber who is considered one of the greatest and most influential climbers in the history of the sport. He dominated sport climbing for the decade after his 2001 ascent of Realization/Biographie, the world's first-ever redpoint of a consensus 9a+ (5.15a) graded route, and ushered in what was called a "technical evolution" in the sport. Sharma carried the mantle of "world's strongest sport climber" from Wolfgang Güllich, and passed it to Adam Ondra.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Realization (climb)</span> Sport climbing route in France

Realization, also called Biographie, is a circa 35-metre (115 ft) sport climbing route on a limestone cliff on the southern face of Céüse mountain, near Gap and Sigoyer, in France. After it was first climbed in 2001 by American climber Chris Sharma, it became the first rock climb in the world to have a consensus grade of 9a+ (5.15a). It is considered an historic and important route in rock climbing, and one of the most attempted climbs at its grade.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Ramón Julián Puigblanqué</span> Spanish rock climber

Ramón Julián Puigblanque is a professional Spanish rock climber specializing in competition lead climbing and sport climbing. He won two World Championships, in 2007 and 2011, three European Championships, in 2004 2010 and 2015, and one Lead Climbing World Cup in 2010. From 2001 to 2016, he participated in 16 seasons of the World Cup, winning 21 World Cup stages. He has also redpointed several sport routes above 9a (5.14d), and made the first free ascent of La Rambla.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Adam Ondra</span> Czech climber (born 1993)

Adam Ondra is a Czech professional rock climber, specializing in lead climbing, bouldering, and competition climbing. In 2013, Rock & Ice described Ondra as a prodigy and the leading climber of his generation. Ondra is the only male athlete to have won World Championship titles in both disciplines in the same year (2014) and is one of the two male athletes to have won the World Cup series in both disciplines.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">La Rambla (climb)</span> Sport climbing route in Spain

La Rambla is a 41-metre (135 ft) sport climb at the limestone El Pati crag in Siurana, Catalonia in Spain. Originally bolted and climbed by Alexander Huber in 1994 as a 35-metre (115 ft) route, the bolting was later extended by Dani Andrada to a 41-metre (135 ft) route, which was eventually climbed by Ramón Julián Puigblanque in 2003. While there has been debate about La Rambla's grade, there is now consensus that it meets the 9a+ (5.15a) threshold. It is an important and historic route in climbing, and is part of the coveted "9a+ trilogy" with Realization and Papichulo.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Ashima Shiraishi</span> American rock climber (born 2001)

Ashima Shiraishi is an American rock climber. Shiraishi started climbing at the age of six at Rat Rock in Central Park, joining her father. Only a few years later, she quickly established herself as one of the top boulderers and sport climbers in the world. Her numerous accomplishments include first-place finishes in international competitions, and multiple first female and youngest ascents. Shiraishi is featured in several short documentary-style films, and is the subject of the documentary short "Return to the Red" (2012).

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Magnus Midtbø</span> Norwegian rock climber

Magnus Rognan Midtbø is a Norwegian rock climber, competition climber, and YouTube video blogger. He was born in Bergen, Norway. He retired from competition climbing in 2017.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Alexander Megos</span> German rock climber

Alexander Megos is a German rock climber specializing in sport climbing, bouldering and competition climbing. In 2013, he became the first-ever climber to onsight a 9a (5.14d) graded route. He has made the first free ascent (FFA) of some of the hardest sport climbing routes in the world, including two 9b+ (5.15c) routes, three 9b (5.15b) routes, and several boulders with a boulder 8C (V15) rating.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Janja Garnbret</span> Slovenian rock climber

Janja Garnbret is a Slovenian professional rock climber who specializes in sport climbing and competition climbing. She has won multiple competition lead climbing and competition bouldering events, two Olympic gold medals, and is widely regarded as the greatest competition climber of all time. In 2021, Garnbret became the first-ever female Olympic gold medalist in climbing, and successfully defended her title in 2024. With two gold medals, she is the most successful Slovenian athlete at the Summer Olympics. She is also the world's first-ever female climber to onsight an 8c (5.14b) graded sport climbing route.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Anak Verhoeven</span> Belgian rock climber

Anak Verhoeven is a Belgian rock climber who specializes in sport climbing and in competition lead climbing. She has repeatedly won the Belgian National Championship in lead climbing. In 2016, she ranked first on the IFSC World Ranking List. In 2017, she won both the World Games and IFSC Climbing European Championships. Verhoeven is also one of the strongest female sport climbers, and in 2017, became the first-ever woman in history to establish a new 9a+ (5.15a) route, Sweet Neuf.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Jakob Schubert</span> Austrian rock climber

Jakob Schubert is an Austrian professional rock climber, specializing in competition climbing, sport climbing, and bouldering. He is a four-time World Champion and three-time World Cup winner in lead climbing. He is a two-time Olympic bronze medalist in the combined event.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Stefano Ghisolfi</span> Italian rock climber (born 1993)

Stefano Ghisolfi is an Italian professional rock climber, who specializes in competition climbing, sport climbing, and bouldering. In competition climbing, he completes in competition lead climbing, competition bouldering, and competition speed climbing, with lead being his strongest discipline. As a sport climber, he has redpointed sport climbing routes of grade 9b+ (5.15c), onsighted routes of 8c (5.14b), and solved boulder problems at grade 8B+ (V14). In December 2018, after climbing Perfecto Mundo, he became the fourth climber in history to redpoint a 9b+ (5.15c) route.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Sachi Amma</span> Japanese rock climber

Sachi Amma is a Japanese professional rock climber and sport climber. He won the IFSC Climbing World Cup twice, in 2012 and 2013.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Patxi Usobiaga</span> Spanish rock climber (born 1980)

Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza, best known as Patxi Usobiaga, is a Spanish professional rock climber, sports climber and boulderer. He is known for winning two Lead Climbing World Cups in a row, and for being the first-ever climber in history to onsight an 8c+ (5.14c) route.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou</span> American rock climber

Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou, is an American rock climber and rock climbing coach. In competition lead climbing, she is a 4-time World Cup champion, and won the biennial World Championships in 1995. She is the third-ever woman in history to redpoint a 5.14a (8b+) graded sport climbing route. She has coached several competition climbers, including Megan Mascarenas, Margo Hayes and her daughter, Brooke Raboutou.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Laura Rogora</span> Italian rock climber

Laura Rogora is an Italian rock climber who specializes in sport climbing and in competition climbing. In 2021, she became the third-ever female climber in history to redpoint a 9b (5.15b)-graded sport climbing route, with her ascent of Erebor in Italy.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Sean Bailey (climber)</span> American rock climber (born 1996)

Sean Bailey is an American professional rock climber, who specializes in competition climbing, sport climbing, and bouldering. He has represented the United States in the IFSC Climbing World Cup in lead climbing, and has two podium finishes in bouldering at individual legs of the World Cup, including a win at the Salt Lake City leg of the 2021 World Cup.1 and three in lead climbing, including two gold medals, at the Villars leg, and Chamonix leg, in July 2021.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Matty Hong</span> American rock climber (born 1991)

Matthew Jacob Hong is an American rock climber, filmmaker and photographer. In 2018, he became the fourth American to climb a route graded at 5.15b (9b). As a filmmaker, he directed the 2017 film Break on Through, which documented Margo Hayes completing the first-ever female ascent of a 9a+ (5.15a) graded sport climbing route, and is featured on the Reel Rock Film Tour.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Jonathan Siegrist</span> American rock climber

Jonathan Siegrist is an American rock climber who is regarded as one of the world's most prolific extreme sport climbers, and who has redpointed, and made numerous first free ascents, of a large number of sport climbing routes at and above the grade of 9a (5.14d). Siegrist's breadth of experience at the world's most extreme sport climbing grades, means that he is often looked to for guidance regarding the grading of extreme sport routes in America. While principally known as a sport climber, he has repeated some of the world's hardest traditional climbing routes.

References

  1. 1 2 Gates, Zoe (May 17, 2017). "By the Numbers: Margo Hayes and the Road to 5.15". Climbing . On her 18th birthday in February 2016
  2. 1 2 3 4 Salabert, Shawnte (March 12, 2020). "The Extraordinary Effort of Margo Hayes". Outside Online. Retrieved March 16, 2020.
  3. "Bio". MARGO HAYES. Retrieved June 1, 2017.
  4. "Ashima Shiraishi wins two golds at world climbing championships". San Jose Mercury News . September 5, 2015.
  5. "World Youth Climbing Championships: Bouldering brings second gold for Janja Garnbret, Margo Hayes & Ashima Shiraishi". Planet Mountain. November 14, 2016.
  6. "Meet Team USA". Rock and Ice. Retrieved March 16, 2020.
  7. "2016 Golden Pitons: Sport Climbing". Climbing Magazine | Rock Climbing, Mountaineering, Bouldering, Ice Climbing. Retrieved May 31, 2017.
  8. Haas, Liz (February 27, 2017). "Margo Hayes Climbs La Rambla, Becomes First Woman to Send 5.15a". Climbing .
  9. Rock and Ice (ed.). "Margo Hayes Sends Biographie/Realization (5.15a)" . Retrieved July 7, 2019.
  10. 1 2 "Margo Hayes climbs Papichulo at Oliana, her third 9a+". PlanetMountain.com. March 23, 2019. Retrieved January 23, 2022.
  11. "Olympic Hopefuls". Rock and Ice. Retrieved March 16, 2020.
  12. "Instagram". www.instagram.com. Retrieved March 21, 2024.
  13. "Athlete Profile: Margo Hayes". IFSC.org. International federation of Sport climbing. Retrieved January 27, 2019.
  14. Rock and Ice (ed.). "Margo Hayes Ticks Another 5.15 with Papichulo!".
  15. Fernandez, Issac (April 4, 2017). "The 9a+ Trilogy, 6 climbers have climbed the 3 most representative routes" [es]. Desnivel (in Spanish). Retrieved July 18, 2023.
  16. Nicolas Mattuzzi (September 25, 2017). "Incroyable! Margo Hayes enchaîne "Biographie" 9a+ et rentre de nouveau dans l'Histoire!". planetgrimpe.com.
  17. Margo Hayes Sends La Rambla (5.15a)! on rockandice.com
  18. Historique! Margo Hayes, 18 ans, enchaîne « La Rambla », 9a+! on planetgrimpe.com
  19. Margo Hayes, 18, Breaks the “Boys Club” of Bad Girls Club (5.14d) Archived 2017-03-01 at the Wayback Machine on rockandice.com
  20. Margo Hayes, 18, Sends The Crew (5.14c) in Rifle on rockandice.com