Piper Kelly

Last updated

Piper Kelly
2019 Sport & Speed Open Nationals - Awards - Piper Kelly - 01.jpg
Kelly with a silver medal at the 2019 US Sport & Speed Open National Championships
Personal information
Born (1999-10-03) October 3, 1999 (age 24)
Indianapolis, Indiana, U.S.
Education Xavier University
Height165 cm (5 ft 5 in)
Climbing career
Type of climber Speed
Sport
Coached byAlbert Ok
Medal record
Women's competition climbing
Representing the Flag of the United States (23px).png  United States
Pan American Games
Gold medal icon (G initial).svg 2023 Santiago Speed

Piper Kelly (born October 3, 1999) is an American competition climber who specializes in competition speed climbing. She won a gold medal in her event at the 2023 Pan American Games and is part of the 2024 US Olympic Team.

Contents

Early life and education

Kelly was born on October 3, 1999, in Indianapolis, [1] began climbing at age seven, [2] and began competing in climbing at age 12. [3] After graduating from Irvington Prep Academy in Indianapolis, [2] she majored in exercise science as a student at Xavier University in Cincinnati, Ohio. [4] [5] She credits her small class sizes at Xavier for allowing her to focus on the biomechanics of climbing in her studies. [5] She graduated in 2023, with minors in psychology and Spanish. [4]

Competition results

Kelly has three international podiums, all first place. [6] At the 2017 Pan American Youth Climbing Championships in Montreal, Canada, she placed first in the Juniors category. [7] At the 2018 International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) Pan American Championship in Guayaquil, Ecuador, she won the speed championship at the senior level. [4] After repeated shoulder dislocations, [1] she took a break from competing for nearly two years beginning in 2020 for shoulder surgery. [2] At the 2023 Pan American Games, she was the gold medalist in the women's speed climbing event, after the top seed, her teammate Emma Hunt, suffered a false start in the final race. Kelly had to re-run the race alone after the false start, achieving her personal best official time, 7.52 seconds. [8] As of 2024, her ranking from IFSC World Cup events places her 9th in the world among women speed climbers. [6]

2024 Olympics

In 2019, when Kelly won the youth nationals, she already stated "I'm not ruling it out" regarding competing in the 2024 Summer Olympics. [9] Her win at the 2023 Pan Am Games gave her a place on the US Olympic team, part of the sport climbing event there, [3] as one of only 14 competitors in women's speed. [5] As Hunt already qualified for the Olympics from placing second in the 2023 World Championships, Kelly secured her position in the Olympics by reaching the final race against Hunt, even before she won. [8]

In the qualification seeding round of the Olympics, Kelly received the 9th seed for the elimination rounds with the best time 7.39. She finished the competition after Indonesia's Desak Made Rita Kusuma Dewi eliminated her in the next round and placed in the 13th position.

Major results

Olympic Games

Discipline 2024
Speed13

World championships

Discipline 2018 2019 2021 2023
Speed2326

World Cup

Discipline 2018 2019 2021 2022 2023 2024
Speed37272820

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Competition climbing</span> Competitive rock climbing

Competition climbing is a form of regulated rock climbing competition held indoors on purpose-built artificial climbing walls. The three competition climbing disciplines are lead climbing, bouldering, and speed climbing. The result of multiple disciplines can be used in a "combined" format to determine an all-round winner. Competition climbing is sometimes called "sport climbing", which is the name given to pre-bolted lead climbing.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Speed climbing</span> Type of climbing

Speed climbing is a climbing discipline in which speed is the ultimate goal. Speed climbing is done on rocks, walls and poles and is only recommended for highly skilled and experienced climbers.

USA Climbing is the national governing body of the sport of competition climbing in the United States. As a 501(c)3 non-profit, they promote Sport Climbing which comprises three competition disciplines: bouldering, lead climbing, and speed climbing, in elite, youth and collegiate formats.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Janja Garnbret</span> Slovenian rock climber

Janja Garnbret is a Slovenian professional rock climber who specializes in sport climbing and competition climbing. She has won multiple competition lead climbing and competition bouldering events, two Olympic gold medals, and is widely regarded as the greatest competition climber of all time. In 2021, Garnbret became the first-ever female Olympic gold medalist in climbing, and successfully defended her title in 2024. With two gold medals, she is the most successful Slovenian athlete at the Summer Olympics. She is also the world's first-ever female climber to onsight an 8c (5.14b) graded sport climbing route.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Margo Hayes</span> American rock climber

Margo Hayes is an American professional rock climber from Boulder, Colorado. In 2016, she won both the competition bouldering and the competition lead climbing events at the IFSC Climbing World Youth Championships in Guangzhou (China). In 2017, she became the first woman in history to climb a 9a+ (5.15a) graded route, and in 2019, became the first woman to complete the "9a+ Trilogy".

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Reza Alipour</span> Iranian speed climber from Qazvin

Reza Alipour Shenazandifard is an Iranian competition speed climber from Qazvin. He is nicknamed the "Persian Cheetah".

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Miho Nonaka</span> Japanese rock climber (born 1997)

Miho Nonaka is a Japanese competition climber who specializes in competition bouldering. She competed at the 2020 Summer Olympics, in Women's combined, winning a silver medal.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Kyra Condie</span> American rock climber

Kyra Condie is a rock climber who specializes in competition climbing and was one of four American rock climbers selected to represent Team USA at the 2020 Summer Olympic Games in Tokyo, Japan. She placed 11th in the Women's Combined event in the sport of Sport Climbing. In December 2019, she qualified for the 2020 Summer Olympics following her finish at the IFSC Combined Qualifier Toulouse 2019, becoming the second female American climber to do so.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Futaba Ito</span> Japanese climber

Futaba Ito is a Japanese professional rock climber, sport climber and boulderer. She participates in both bouldering and lead climbing competitions. She won the IFSC Climbing Asian Youth Championships in lead and bouldering events in 2016, as well as Bouldering Japan Cup in 2017. She participated in combined and speed events at the 2018 Asian Games.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Aleksandra Mirosław</span> Polish speed climber (born 1994)

Aleksandra (Ola) Mirosław is a Polish soldier and competition speed climber. She is a two-time women's speed world champion as well as the current women's competition speed climbing world record holder. Mirosław won the gold medal at the 2024 Summer Olympics in the speed climbing event, becoming the first ever Olympic champion in this event.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Petra Klingler</span> Swiss rock and ice climber

Petra Klingler is a Swiss rock climber who specializes in competition climbing. Known as a versatile climber, she competes in a wide range of competitive events, including competition bouldering, competition speed climbing, competition lead climbing, and also competition ice climbing.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Seo Chae-hyun</span> South Korean rock climber

Seo Chae-hyun, also known as Chaehyun Seo, is a South Korean professional rock climber who specializes in competition climbing. She won the overall 2019 World Cup title in competition lead climbing in her senior debut season. In 2021 she won the IFSC World Championship in lead climbing. Seo is a two-time Olympian, having represented South Korea at the 2020 and 2024 Summer Olympics.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Alannah Yip</span> Canadian rock climber

Alannah Yip is a Canadian rock climber who specializes in competition climbing. She was the national champion in her age category when she was twelve. She won a gold medal at the American Climbing Championships 2020 in Los Angeles, which qualified her for the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Natalia Grossman</span> American rock climber

Natalia Grossman is an American professional rock climber who specializes in competition climbing. She represents the United States at IFSC Climbing World Cup in competition bouldering and competition lead climbing. She won gold and silver at the 2021 IFSC Climbing World Championships, and has 19 podium finishes at World Cup events, including nine golds. In October 2023, Grossman qualified for the 2024 Olympic games in Paris by winning the boulder & lead combined competition at the 2023 Pan American Games.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Noah Bratschi</span> American rock climber (born 2000)

Noah Bratschi is an American professional rock climber who specializes in competition speed climbing and represents the United States at IFSC Climbing World Cups. He won the bronze medal at the 2021 International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) World Championship in Moscow, Russia. With this accomplishment he became the first American speed climber to win a World Championship medal in thirty years, and with that, he also became the first American to ever win a medal on the modern IFSC homologated speed climbing wall.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Sport climbing at the 2024 Summer Olympics</span>

Competition climbing at the 2024 Summer Olympics took place from 5 to 10 August at Le Bourget Sport Climbing Venue in Saint-Denis, returning to the program for the second time since the sport's official debut three years earlier in Tokyo 2020. The total number of medal events was doubled from two in the previous edition because the boulder-and-lead tandem had been separated from the speed format. Furthermore, the number of climbers increased from 40 to 68.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Emma Hunt</span> American speed climber (born 2003)

Emma Hunt is an American competition climber who specializes in competition speed climbing, and holds the American women's speed record with 6.301 seconds, set at the USA Climbing North American Cup in Salt Lake City in April 2024.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Aleksandra Kałucka</span> Polish speed climber

Aleksandra Kałucka is a Polish competition climber who specializes in competition speed climbing. She won the bronze medal at the 2024 Summer Olympics in the speed climbing event. Kałucka also participated at the 2022 IFSC Climbing European Championships, being awarded the silver medal in the women's speed event. She is the twin sister of Natalia Kałucka.

Aniya Holder is a South African rock climber who specializes in competition climbing, particularly speed climbing. As of 2024, Holder is the reigning female African Continental Champion in women's speed climbing, and she is representing South Africa in that discipline at the 2024 Summer Olympics.

Leslie Adriana Romero Pérez is a Venezuelan-born Spanish competition climber who specializes in competition speed climbing. She was a finalist for the 2024 Spanish Olympic team in the speed climbing event.

References

  1. 1 2 Payne, Laura (May 31, 2024), "Piper Kelly", Britannica, retrieved 2024-07-09
  2. 1 2 3 Piper Kelly's climb to the Olympics started in Indianapolis, WTHR, November 14, 2023, retrieved 2024-07-09
  3. 1 2 Benbow, Dana Hunsinger (December 13, 2023), "'Nothing's out of reach:' Indy's speed climber phenom Piper Kelly headed to Paris Olympics", Indianapolis Star, retrieved 2024-07-09
  4. 1 2 3 "Olympics 2024: Piper Kelly", UK Climbing, retrieved 2024-07-09
  5. 1 2 3 Burke, Addison (April 23, 2024), "Climbing to The Highest Stage: Piper Kelly Heads to The Olympics", Xavier Newswire, retrieved 2024-07-10
  6. 1 2 "Piper Kelly", Athlete profiles, International Federation of Sport Climbing, retrieved 2024-07-09
  7. "Montreal Pan-Am Youth Championships 2017 Results", Gripped, November 6, 2017, retrieved 2024-07-09
  8. 1 2 Miller, Delaney (October 21, 2023), "American Speed Climber Piper Kelly Punches Ticket to Olympics", Climbing, retrieved 2024-07-09
  9. Benbow, Dana Hunsinger (April 9, 2019), "Indy's speed climbing phenom Piper Kelly, 19, ranked among best in the world", Indianapolis Star, retrieved 2024-07-09