Personal information | |||||||||||||||
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Born | Indianapolis, Indiana, U.S. | October 3, 1999||||||||||||||
Education | Xavier University | ||||||||||||||
Height | 165 cm (5 ft 5 in) | ||||||||||||||
Climbing career | |||||||||||||||
Type of climber | Speed | ||||||||||||||
Sport | |||||||||||||||
Coached by | Albert Ok | ||||||||||||||
Medal record
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Piper Kelly (born October 3, 1999) is an American competition climber who specializes in competition speed climbing. She won a gold medal in her event at the 2023 Pan American Games and is part of the 2024 US Olympic Team.
Kelly was born on October 3, 1999, in Indianapolis, [1] began climbing at age seven, [2] and began competing in climbing at age 12. [3] After graduating from Irvington Prep Academy in Indianapolis, [2] she majored in exercise science as a student at Xavier University in Cincinnati, Ohio. [4] [5] She credits her small class sizes at Xavier for allowing her to focus on the biomechanics of climbing in her studies. [5] She graduated in 2023, with minors in psychology and Spanish. [4]
Kelly has three international podiums, all first place. [6] At the 2017 Pan American Youth Climbing Championships in Montreal, Canada, she placed first in the Juniors category. [7] At the 2018 International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) Pan American Championship in Guayaquil, Ecuador, she won the speed championship at the senior level. [4] After repeated shoulder dislocations, [1] she took a break from competing for nearly two years beginning in 2020 for shoulder surgery. [2] At the 2023 Pan American Games, she was the gold medalist in the women's speed climbing event, after the top seed, her teammate Emma Hunt, suffered a false start in the final race. Kelly had to re-run the race alone after the false start, achieving her personal best official time, 7.52 seconds. [8] As of 2024 [update] , her ranking from IFSC World Cup events places her 9th in the world among women speed climbers. [6]
In 2019, when Kelly won the youth nationals, she already stated "I'm not ruling it out" regarding competing in the 2024 Summer Olympics. [9] Her win at the 2023 Pan Am Games gave her a place on the US Olympic team, part of the sport climbing event there, [3] as one of only 14 competitors in women's speed. [5] As Hunt already qualified for the Olympics from placing second in the 2023 World Championships, Kelly secured her position in the Olympics by reaching the final race against Hunt, even before she won. [8]
In the qualification seeding round of the Olympics, Kelly received the 9th seed for the elimination rounds with the best time 7.39. She finished the competition after Indonesia's Desak Made Rita Kusuma Dewi eliminated her in the next round and placed in the 13th position.
Discipline | 2024 |
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Speed | 13 |
Discipline | 2018 | 2019 | 2021 | 2023 |
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Speed | 23 | — | — | 26 |
Discipline | 2018 | 2019 | 2021 | 2022 | 2023 | 2024 |
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Speed | 37 | — | — | 27 | 28 | 20 |
Competition climbing is a form of regulated rock climbing competition held indoors on purpose-built artificial climbing walls. The three competition climbing disciplines are lead climbing, bouldering, and speed climbing. The result of multiple disciplines can be used in a "combined" format to determine an all-round winner. Competition climbing is sometimes called "sport climbing", which is the name given to pre-bolted lead climbing.
Speed climbing is a climbing discipline in which speed is the ultimate goal. Speed climbing is done on rocks, walls and poles and is only recommended for highly skilled and experienced climbers.
USA Climbing is the national governing body of the sport of competition climbing in the United States. As a 501(c)3 non-profit, they promote Sport Climbing which comprises three competition disciplines: bouldering, lead climbing, and speed climbing, in elite, youth and collegiate formats.
Janja Garnbret is a Slovenian professional rock climber who specializes in sport climbing and competition climbing. She has won multiple competition lead climbing and competition bouldering events, two Olympic gold medals, and is widely regarded as the greatest competition climber of all time. In 2021, Garnbret became the first-ever female Olympic gold medalist in climbing, and successfully defended her title in 2024. With two gold medals, she is the most successful Slovenian athlete at the Summer Olympics. She is also the world's first-ever female climber to onsight an 8c (5.14b) graded sport climbing route.
Margo Hayes is an American professional rock climber from Boulder, Colorado. In 2016, she won both the competition bouldering and the competition lead climbing events at the IFSC Climbing World Youth Championships in Guangzhou (China). In 2017, she became the first woman in history to climb a 9a+ (5.15a) graded route, and in 2019, became the first woman to complete the "9a+ Trilogy".
Reza Alipour Shenazandifard is an Iranian competition speed climber from Qazvin. He is nicknamed the "Persian Cheetah".
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Futaba Ito is a Japanese professional rock climber, sport climber and boulderer. She participates in both bouldering and lead climbing competitions. She won the IFSC Climbing Asian Youth Championships in lead and bouldering events in 2016, as well as Bouldering Japan Cup in 2017. She participated in combined and speed events at the 2018 Asian Games.
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