Competition climbing at the Games of the XXXIII Olympiad | |
---|---|
Venue | Le Bourget Sport Climbing Venue |
Dates | 5–10 August 2024 |
No. of events | 4 (2 men, 2 women) |
Competitors | 68 |
Sport climbing at the 2024 Summer Olympics | ||
---|---|---|
Qualification | ||
Combined | men | women |
Speed | men | women |
Competition climbing at the 2024 Summer Olympics took place from 5 to 10 August at Le Bourget Sport Climbing Venue in Saint-Denis, returning to the program for the second time since the sport's official debut three years earlier in Tokyo 2020. [1] The total number of medal events was doubled from two in the previous edition because the boulder-and-lead tandem had been separated from the speed format. [2] Furthermore, the number of climbers increased from 40 to 68. [2] [3]
The climbing competition is taking place at the Le Bourget Sport Climbing Venue in Le Bourget, in the Seine-Saint-Denis suburb of Paris. Along with the aquatic centre in Saint Denis, the climbing venue serves as one of the two sports facilities to be built specifically for the Games. [4]
Since the inclusion of competition climbing in the Olympics for the 2020 Summer Olympics, the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) has advocated for three separate medal events: bouldering, lead, and speed; however, climbing in Tokyo 2020 was limited to a single 'combined' format for each gender. [5] The format, along with the scoring system multiplying a placement from each discipline, drew criticisms from athletes, prompting a significant overlap between the boulder-and-lead tandem and speed climbing specialists. [6]
For Paris 2024, the International Olympic Committee decided to award four medals in two separate disciplines per gender, namely, boulder-and-lead combined and speed. [5]
Speed climbing will be a standalone event, following the current standard single-elimination competition speed climbing format with athletes climbing side-by-side up a 15-metre wall. [1]
At the 2020 Summer Olympics, points were calculated by multiplying each athlete's position in the lead, boulder, and speed with the athlete who obtained the lowest total winning. [1] With the speed separated from the combined format for Paris 2024, the IFSC has introduced a system that computes the total score from the lead and boulder phases, with the athlete who garners the most points winning.
The proposed scoring format will be distributed as follows: [7]
This scoring format was first used (with a slightly different point distribution system) [5] in March 2022 at the Sharma Climbing test event in Barcelona, Spain, [8] before becoming internationally available to the sport climbers at two successful meets: the IFSC Climbing European Championships in Munich, Germany (August 2022) [8] and the IFSC Climbing World Cup series in Morioka, Japan (October 2022). [9]
A total of 68 quota places (28 for speed and 40 for boulder-and-lead combined) are available for Paris 2024, an increment of seventy percent from the Tokyo 2020 roster size (40). Each NOC is entitled to enter a maximum of four climbers (two per gender) in the two separate formats. [10] [11]
The qualification period commenced at the 2023 IFSC Climbing World Championships, which took place between 1 and 12 August in Bern, Switzerland. There, ten spots were awarded to the highest-ranked climbers, respecting the two-athlete NOC limit for each gender: the top three medalists for the boulder-and-lead combined, along with the champion and runner-up for the speed climbing. [12] The remainder of the total quota were awarded to the twenty eligible climbers for the boulder-and-lead combined and ten for the speed, respectively, at each of the continental qualification tournaments (Africa, the Americas, Asia, Europe, and Oceania) over a three-month-long period (September to December 2023). Further qualification opportunities will be available at a triad of Olympic Qualifier Series events held between March and June 2024. [13]
Because France is the host country, a single spot is reserved for a French climber of each gender in each discipline if France doesn't otherwise have an athlete who qualifies. Four more quota places (two per gender) are reserved for the NOCs competing in each category under the Universality rule. [14] [15]
B | Boulder semifinal | L | Lead semifinal | Q | Qualification | F | Final |
Event ↓ / Date → | Mon 5 Aug 24 | Tue 6 Aug 24 | Wed 7 Aug 24 | Thu 8 Aug 24 | Fri 9 Aug 24 | Sat 10 Aug 24 |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Men's combined | B | L | F | |||
Men's speed | Q | F | ||||
Women's combined | B | L | F | |||
Women's speed | Q | F |
In total of 68 climbers from 22 nations:
A total of 12 medals were won by eight NOC's. [17]
* Host nation (France)
Rank | NOC | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Poland | 1 | 0 | 1 | 2 |
2 | Great Britain | 1 | 0 | 0 | 1 |
Indonesia | 1 | 0 | 0 | 1 | |
Slovenia | 1 | 0 | 0 | 1 | |
5 | China | 0 | 2 | 0 | 2 |
6 | United States | 0 | 1 | 1 | 2 |
7 | Japan | 0 | 1 | 0 | 1 |
8 | Austria | 0 | 0 | 2 | 2 |
Totals (8 entries) | 4 | 4 | 4 | 12 |
Event | Gold | Silver | Bronze | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Men's combined | Toby Roberts Great Britain | Sorato Anraku Japan | Jakob Schubert Austria | |||
Men's speed | Veddriq Leonardo Indonesia | Wu Peng China | Sam Watson United States | |||
Women's combined | Janja Garnbret Slovenia | Brooke Raboutou United States | Jessica Pilz Austria | |||
Women's speed | Aleksandra Mirosław Poland | Deng Lijuan China | Aleksandra Kałucka Poland |
Event | Round | Climber | Nation | Time | Date | Record |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Women's speed (speed) | Qualification | Zhou Yafei | China | 6.54 | 5 August | OR [18] |
Women's speed (speed) | Qualification | Desak Made Rita Kusuma Dewi | Indonesia | 6.52 | 5 August | OR [18] |
Women's speed (speed) | Qualification | Emma Hunt | United States | 6.36 | 5 August | OR [19] |
Women's speed (speed) | Qualification | Aleksandra Mirosław | Poland | 6.21 | 5 August | WR [18] |
Women's speed (speed) | Qualification | Aleksandra Mirosław | Poland | 6.06 | 5 August | WR [18] |
Men's speed (speed) | Bronze medal match | Sam Watson | United States | 4.74 | 8 August | WR |
Competition climbing is a form of regulated rock climbing competition held indoors on purpose-built artificial climbing walls. The three competition climbing disciplines are lead climbing, bouldering, and speed climbing. The result of multiple disciplines can be used in a "combined" format to determine an all-round winner. Competition climbing is sometimes called "sport climbing", which is the name given to pre-bolted lead climbing.
Speed climbing is a climbing discipline in which speed is the ultimate goal. Speed climbing is done on rocks, walls and poles and is only recommended for highly skilled and experienced climbers.
The IFSC Climbing World Championships are the biennial world championship event for competition climbing that is organized by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC). This event determines the male and female world champions in the three disciplines of competition climbing: competition lead climbing, competition bouldering, and competition speed climbing. Since 2012, a combined ranking is also determined, for climbers competing in all disciplines, and additional medals are awarded based on that ranking. The first event was organized in Frankfurt in 1991.
USA Climbing is the national governing body of the sport of competition climbing in the United States. As a 501(c)3 non-profit, they promote Sport Climbing which comprises three competition disciplines: bouldering, lead climbing, and speed climbing, in elite, youth and collegiate formats.
Competition climbing made its Olympic debut at the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo, Japan. Two events were held, one each for men and women. The format controversially consisted of one combined event with three disciplines: lead climbing, speed climbing and bouldering. The medals were determined based on best performance across all three disciplines. This format was previously tested at the 2018 Summer Youth Olympics. The Olympic code for sports climbing is CLB.
Reza Alipour Shenazandifard is an Iranian competition speed climber from Qazvin.
Sport climbing at the 2018 Summer Youth Olympics was held from 7 to 10 October. The competition took place at the Parque Urbano in Puerto Madero, Buenos Aires, Argentina. This marked the debut of the sport at the Youth Olympics.
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Miho Nonaka is a Japanese competition climber who specializes in competition bouldering. She is an Olympic silver medalist in sport climbing.
There were 40 quota spots available for sport climbing at the 2020 Summer Olympics. Each National Olympic Committee (NOC) could obtain a maximum of 2 spots in each event. Each event had 20 competitors qualify: 18 from qualifying, 1 from the host (Japan), and 1 from Tripartite Commission invitations.
The 2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships, the 16th edition, were held in Hachioji, Japan from 11 to 21 August 2019. The championships consisted of lead, speed, bouldering, and combined events. The paraclimbing event was held separately from 16 to 17 July in Briançon, France. The combined event also served as an Olympic qualifying event for the 2020 Summer Olympics.
The women's combined event at the 2020 Summer Olympics was a climbing competition combining three disciplines. It took place between 4 and 6 August 2021 at the Aomi Urban Sports Park in Tokyo. 20 athletes from 15 nations competed. Sport climbing was one of four new sports added to the Olympic program for 2020.
The 2019 IFSC Combined Qualifier was an Olympic Qualifying Event. It was held from 28 November to 1 December 2019 in Toulouse, France. It was organized by the French Federation of Sport Climbing and Mountaineering or FFME. The athletes competed in combined format of three disciplines: speed, bouldering, and lead, simulating the 2020 Olympics format. Six athletes per gender would qualify for the 2020 Tokyo Olympics through this event. The winner for men was Kokoro Fujii and for women was Futaba Ito.
The 2022 IFSC Climbing World Cup is the 34th edition of the international sport climbing competition series organised by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC), held in 12 locations. There are 21 events: six bouldering, seven lead, seven speed, and one bouldering & lead combined events. The series began on 8 April in Meiringen, Switzerland with the first bouldering competitions of the season, and concluded on 22 October in Morioka-Iwate, Japan, which introduced the Boulder & Lead combined format that will be used at the 2024 Summer Olympics in Paris.
In qualifying for the 2024 Summer Olympics, a total of 68 climbers, with an equal distribution between men and women, will compete across two separate competition climbing disciplines at these Games for the first time, namely: a unique competition bouldering-and-competition lead climbing combined event, and a separate competition speed climbing event.
Sport climbing competitions at the 2023 Pan American Games in Santiago, Chile are scheduled to be held between October 21 and 24, 2023 at the Cerrillos Park Climbing Walls in Santiago, Chile. The sport will be making its Pan American Games debut, after it was added to the sports program in December 2021.
The 2024 IFSC Climbing World Cup is the 36th edition of the international competition climbing series organised by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC), held in 9 locations. There are 16 events per gender: five competition bouldering, six competition lead climbing, and five competition speed climbing events. The series begins on 8 April in Keqiao, Shaoxing, China, with the first bouldering World Cup of the season, and will conclude on 8 October in Seoul with bouldering, lead, and speed.
The 2024 Olympic Qualifier Series was a sporting event held in May and June 2024 in Shanghai and Budapest, respectively. This two-part series was the inaugural edition of a multi-sport Olympic qualifying event, which determined the athletes who will compete in the 2024 Summer Olympics in BMX freestyle, breaking, skateboarding, and sport climbing.
Ievgeniia (Jenya) Serikivna Kazbekova is a Ukrainian competition climber. She is a two-time European Championships silver medallist and competed in the women's combined event at the 2024 Summer Olympics in Paris.
Aniya Holder is a South African rock climber who specializes in competition climbing, particularly speed climbing. As of 2024, Holder is the reigning female African Continental Champion in women's speed climbing, and she is representing South Africa in that discipline at the 2024 Summer Olympics.
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