Sport climbing at the 2024 Summer Olympics

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Contents

Competition climbing
at the Games of the XXXIII Olympiad
Sport climbing - Paris 2024.svg
VenueLe Bourget Sport Climbing Venue
Dates5–10 August 2024
No. of events4
Competitors68
←  2020
2028  →

Competition climbing at the 2024 Summer Olympics is scheduled to run from 5 to 10 August at Le Bourget Sport Climbing Venue in Saint-Denis, returning to the program for the second time since the sport's official debut three years earlier in Tokyo 2020. [1] The total number of medal events will double from two in the previous edition, separating the boulder-and-lead tandem from the speed format. [2] Furthermore, Paris 2024 will witness a significant rise in the number of sport climbers competing contrary to Tokyo 2020, expanding the roster size from 40 to 68. [2] [3]

Venue

The climbing competition will take place at the Le Bourget Sport Climbing Venue in Le Bourget in the Seine-Saint-Denis suburb of Paris. Along with the aquatic centre in Saint Denis, the climbing venue will serve as one of the two sports facilities to be built specifically for the Games. [4]

Competition format

Since the inclusion of competition climbing in the Olympics for the 2020 Summer Olympics, the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) has advocated for three separate medal events: bouldering, lead, and speed; however, climbing in Tokyo 2020 was limited to a single 'combined' format for each gender. [5] The format, along with the scoring system multiplying a placement from each discipline, drew criticisms from athletes, prompting a significant overlap between the boulder-and-lead tandem and speed climbing specialists. [6]

For Paris 2024, the International Olympic Committee decided to award four medals in two separate disciplines per gender, namely, boulder-and-lead combined, and speed. [5]

Speed

Speed climbing will be a standalone event, following the current standard single-elimination competition speed climbing format with athletes climbing side-by-side up a 15-metre wall. [1]

Boulder-and-lead combined

At the 2020 Summer Olympics, points were calculated by multiplying each athlete's position in the lead, boulder, and speed, with the athlete who obtained the lowest total winning. [1] With the speed separated from the combined format for Paris 2024, the IFSC has introduced a system that computes the total score from the lead and boulder phases, with the athlete who garners the most points winning.

The proposed scoring format will be distributed as follows: [7]

This scoring format was first used (with a slightly different point distribution system) [5] in March 2022 at the Sharma Climbing test event in Barcelona, Spain, [8] before becoming internationally available to the sport climbers at two successful meets, the IFSC Climbing European Championships in Munich, Germany (August 2022) [8] and the IFSC Climbing World Cup series in Morioka, Japan (October 2022). [9]

Qualification

A total of 68 quota places (28 for speed and 40 for the boulder-and-lead combined) are available for Paris 2024, an increment of seventy percent from the Tokyo 2020 roster size (40). Each NOC is entitled to enter a maximum of four climbers (two per gender) in the two separate formats. [10] [11]

The qualification period commenced at the 2023 IFSC Climbing World Championships, which took place between 1 and 12 August in Bern, Switzerland. There, ten spots were awarded to the highest-ranked climbers, respecting the two-athlete NOC limit for each gender: the top three medalists for the boulder-and-lead combined, along with the champion and runner-up for the speed climbing. [12] The remainder of the total quota were awarded to the twenty eligible climbers for the boulder-and-lead combined, and ten for the speed, respectively, at each of the continental qualification tournaments (Africa, the Americas, Asia, Europe, and Oceania) over a three-month-long period (September to December 2023). Further qualification opportunities will be at a triad of Olympic Qualifier Series events held between March and June 2024. [13]

As the host country, France reserves a single spot for each gender in each discipline if they don't otherwise qualify an athlete. Four more quota places (two per gender) are entitled to the NOCs competing in each category under the Universality rule. [14] [15]

Competition schedule

Legend
BBoulder semifinalLLead semifinalQQualificationFFinal
Schedule [16]
Event ↓ / Date →Mon 5Tue 6Wed 7Thu 8Fri 9Sat 10
Men's combined BLF
Men's speed QF
Women's combined BLF
Women's speed QF

Medal summary

Medal table

  *   Host nation (France)

RankNOCGoldSilverBronzeTotal
Totals (0 entries)0000

Events

EventGoldSilverBronze
Men's combined
details
Women's combined
details
Men's speed
details
Women's speed
details

See also

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Competition climbing</span> Competitive rock climbing

Competition climbing is a form of regulated rock climbing competition held indoors on purpose-built artificial climbing walls. The three competition climbing disciplines are lead climbing, bouldering, and speed climbing. The result of multiple disciplines can be used in a "combined" format to determine an all-round winner. Competition climbing is sometimes called "sport climbing", which is the name given to pre-bolted lead climbing.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Speed climbing</span> Type of climbing

Speed climbing is a climbing discipline in which speed is the ultimate goal. Speed climbing is done on rocks, walls and poles and is only recommended for highly skilled and experienced climbers.

The IFSC Climbing World Championships are the biennial world championship event for competition climbing that is organized by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC). This event determines the male and female world champions in the three disciplines of competition climbing: competition lead climbing, competition bouldering, and competition speed climbing. Since 2012, a combined ranking is also determined, for climbers competing in all disciplines, and additional medals are awarded based on that ranking. The first event was organized in Frankfurt in 1991.

USA Climbing is the national governing body of the sport of competition climbing in the United States. As a 501(c)3 non-profit, they promote Sport Climbing which comprises three competition disciplines: bouldering, lead climbing, and speed climbing, in elite, youth and collegiate formats.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">IFSC Climbing World Cup</span> Annual series of competitions

The IFSC Climbing World Cup is a series of competition climbing events held during the year at various locations around the world, organized by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC). At each event, the athletes compete in three disciplines: lead, bouldering, and speed. The number of events varies from year to year, and the winners for each discipline are decided by the points accumulated in the year.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Sport climbing at the 2020 Summer Olympics</span> Sport climbing events at the 2020 Summer Olympics

Competition climbing made its Olympic debut at the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo, Japan. Two events were held, one each for men and women. The format controversially consisted of one combined event with three disciplines: lead climbing, speed climbing and bouldering. The medals were determined based on best performance across all three disciplines. This format was previously tested at the 2018 Summer Youth Olympics. The Olympic code for sports climbing is CLB.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Sport climbing at the 2018 Summer Youth Olympics</span>

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">Sport climbing at the Summer Olympics</span> Competition climbing event

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">Miho Nonaka</span> Japanese rock climber

Miho Nonaka is a Japanese competition climber who specializes in competition bouldering. She competed at the 2020 Summer Olympics, in Women's combined, winning a silver medal.

There were 40 quota spots available for sport climbing at the 2020 Summer Olympics. Each National Olympic Committee (NOC) could obtain a maximum of 2 spots in each event. Each event had 20 competitors qualify: 18 from qualifying, 1 from the host (Japan), and 1 from Tripartite Commission invitations.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Ranking of career IFSC victories by climber</span> Ranking of career gold climbing medals

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships</span>

The 2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships, the 16th edition, were held in Hachioji, Japan from 11 to 21 August 2019. The championships consisted of lead, speed, bouldering, and combined events. The paraclimbing event was held separately from 16 to 17 July in Briançon, France. The combined event also served as an Olympic qualifying event for the 2020 Summer Olympics.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Sport climbing at the 2020 Summer Olympics – Men's combined</span> Mens combined events at the Olympics

The men's combined event at the 2020 Summer Olympics was a climbing competition combining three disciplines. It was held from August 3 to August 5, 2021 at the Aomi Urban Sports Park in Tokyo. A total of 20 athletes from 15 nations competed. Sport climbing was one of four new sports added to the Olympic program for 2020.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Sport climbing at the 2020 Summer Olympics – Women's combined</span> Womens combined events at the Olympics

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">Natalia Grossman</span> American rock climber

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">Judo at the 2024 Summer Olympics</span>

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In qualifying for the 2024 Summer Olympics, a total of 68 climbers, with an equal distribution between men and women, will compete across two separate competition climbing disciplines at these Games for the first time, namely: a unique competition bouldering-and-competition lead climbing combined event, and a separate competition speed climbing event.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Sport climbing at the 2023 Pan American Games</span> Sport climbing competitions at the 2023 Pan American Games

Sport climbing competitions at the 2023 Pan American Games in Santiago, Chile are scheduled to be held between October 21 and 24, 2023 at the Cerrillos Park Climbing Walls in Santiago, Chile. The sport will be making its Pan American Games debut, after it was added to the sports program in December 2021.

References

  1. 1 2 3 "Paris 2024 – Sport Climbing". Paris 2024 . Retrieved 30 December 2022.
  2. 1 2 "Sport Climbing Officially Added To Paris 2024 Sports Programme!". International Federation of Sport Climbing. 7 December 2020. Retrieved 30 December 2022.
  3. ↑ "Olympic Games Paris 2024". International Federation of Sport Climbing . Retrieved 30 December 2022.
  4. ↑ "Paris 2024 – Le Bourget Sport Climbing Venue". Paris 2024. 17 July 2021. Retrieved 12 July 2022.
  5. 1 2 3 Walker, Noah (23 December 2021). "The Paris Olympics – A New Scoring System". Gripped. Retrieved 12 July 2022.
  6. ↑ Hart, Robert (3 August 2021). "Climbing Makes Historic Olympic Debut In Controversial New Format (Photos)". Forbes . Retrieved 12 July 2022.
  7. ↑ "New Boulder & Lead Score Distribution to be Applied in Morioka, Iwate". International Federation of Sport Climbing. 19 September 2022. Retrieved 24 October 2022.
  8. 1 2 Walker, Noah (5 March 2022). "Chris Sharma's New Gym Hosts Paris Olympic Format Debut Competition". Gripped. Retrieved 12 July 2022.
  9. ↑ "Japan to host IFSC Boulder & Lead World Cup this fall". International Federation of Sport Climbing. 25 May 2022. Retrieved 12 July 2022.
  10. ↑ Martin, Marta (13 December 2022). "How to qualify for sport climbing (speed) at Paris 2024. The Olympics qualification system explained". International Olympic Committee . Retrieved 30 December 2022.
  11. ↑ Martin, Marta (13 December 2022). "How to qualify for sport climbing (boulder and lead) at Paris 2024. The Olympics qualification system explained". International Olympic Committee . Retrieved 30 December 2022.
  12. ↑ Berry, Natalie (17 May 2022). "Paris 2024 Olympic Sport Climbing Qualification System Announced". UKC. Retrieved 30 December 2022.
  13. ↑ "IFSC Calendar 2023: The Start of a New Olympic Qualification Path" (Press release). International Federation of Sport Climbing. 12 September 2022. Retrieved 16 October 2022.
  14. ↑ "Qualification System – Games of the XXXIII Olympiad – Sport Climbing Boulder & Lead" (PDF). International Federation of Sport Climbing . International Olympic Committee . Retrieved 30 December 2022.
  15. ↑ "Qualification System – Games of the XXXIII Olympiad – Sport Climbing Speed" (PDF). International Federation of Sport Climbing . International Olympic Committee . Retrieved 30 December 2022.
  16. ↑ "Paris 2024 Olympic Competition Schedule – Sport Climbing" (PDF). Paris 2024 . p. 24. Retrieved 30 December 2022.
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