Jessica Pilz

Last updated
Jessica Pilz
CISM2017 250217 115026.jpg
Pilz competing in 2017
Personal information
NationalityAustrian
Born (1996-11-22) 22 November 1996 (age 28)
Haag, Austria
Height165 cm (5 ft 5 in)
Weight52 kg (115 lb)
Climbing career
Type of climber
Highest grade
Known for
Medal record
Women's competition climbing
Representing Flag of Austria.svg  Austria
Event1st2nd3rd
Olympic Games 001
World Championships 211
World Cup 386
Olympic Games
Bronze medal icon (B initial).svg 2024 Paris Combined
World Championships
Gold medal icon (G initial).svg 2018 Innsbruck Lead
Gold medal icon (G initial).svg 2021 Moscow Combined
Silver medal icon (S initial).svg 2023 Bern Combined
Bronze medal icon (B initial).svg2018 InnsbruckCombined
World Cup (Overall)
Winner2023Lead
Winner2024Lead
Silver medal icon.svg2018Lead
Bronze medal icon.svg2015Lead
Bronze medal icon.svg2016Combined
Bronze medal icon.svg2019Combined
European Championships
Silver medal icon (S initial).svg 2022 Munich Lead
Bronze medal icon (B initial).svg2015 ChamonixLead
Bronze medal icon (B initial).svg2017 Campitello di FassaLead
Bronze medal icon (B initial).svg2022 MunichCombined
Winter Military World Games
Gold medal icon (G initial).svg2017Lead
Gold medal icon (G initial).svg2017Bouldering
Silver medal icon (S initial).svg2017Speed
Updated on 28 April 2019

Jessica Pilz (born 22 November 1996) is an Austrian professional rock climber who specializes in competition climbing. She won the bronze medal in the combined bouldering and lead climbing event at the 2024 Summer Olympics.

Contents

Climbing career

Competition climbing

Pilz started competing in 2010, both in competition lead climbing and competition bouldering. From 2011 to 2015, she won six international youth competitions in lead climbing. In 2014, she also won both the European Youth Cup and Youth Championships in bouldering.

In 2017, Pilz won the Winter Military World Games both in lead climbing and bouldering.

In 2018, Pilz won the lead climbing event at the 2018 IFSC Climbing World Championships in Innsbruck by climbing the route a few seconds faster than the former World Champion, Janja Garnbret. She won the bronze medal in the combined event at the same World Championships.

In 2019, Pilz placed 10th in the combined event at the 2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships, qualifying her for the 2020 Olympics, [1] where she finished 7th. [2]

In 2021, Pilz won the combined event at the 2021 IFSC Climbing World Championships.

In 2023, Pilz qualified to compete in the combined event at the 2024 Summer Olympics in Paris by placing second in the combined event at the 2023 IFSC Climbing World Championships. [3] Pilz won the overall title in lead climbing in the 2023 IFSC Climbing World Cup series.

In 2024, Pilz won the bronze medal in the combined event at the 2024 Summer Olympics. [4]

In 2024, Pilz won the overall Lead world cup title for the second time. Besides 2 silvers in the lead world cups in Chamonix and Koper she won the gold medal in Seoul [5] .

Pilz and fellow Austrian climber Jakob Schubert, competed as a duo and took the Gold title in the Red Bull Dual Ascent [6] .

Rock climbing

In November 2024, she redpointed Papichulo, a 9a+  (5.15a) graded sport climbing route in Spain. [7] Pilz also redpointed Paint it Black, an 8c  (5.14b) graded sport route in the Zillertal Valley, Austria. [8]

In November 2023, she completed the following routes in Antalya, Turkey [9] :

In January 2016, during a short trip to the famous crag of Oliana in Spain, she redpointed two 8c+  (5.14c) graded sport climbing routes. [10]

Rankings

IFSC Climbing World Cup

Discipline [11] 201220132014201520162017201820192021202220232024
Lead331913394210-1011
Bouldering25581151271711
Speed5763-----
Combined31043--4

IFSC Climbing World Championships

Youth [12]

Discipline2010
Youth B
2011
Youth B
2012
Youth A
2013
Youth A
2014
Junior
2015
Junior
Lead1611122
Bouldering3
Speed21

Adult [12]

Discipline2016201820192023
Lead5166
Bouldering-4338
Speed-5943-
Combined-3102

Climbing European Championships

Youth [12]

Discipline2012
Youth A
2013
Youth A
2014
Junior
2015
Junior
Lead1121
Bouldering212

Adult [12]

Discipline201320152017
Lead1133
Bouldering512
Speed3141

Sport climbing at the Winter Military World Games

Discipline2017
Lead1
Bouldering1
Speed2

European Youth Cup

Discipline2010
Youth B
2011
Youth B
2012
Youth A
2013
Youth A
2014
Junior
2015
Junior
Lead52262
Bouldering351212

Number of medals in the IFSC Climbing World Cup

Lead

Season [12] GoldSilverBronzeTotal
201411
2015336
201611
201711
20182316
2019112
20200
20210
20220
2023213
2024111
Total312722

Bouldering

Season [12] GoldSilverBronzeTotal
201911
Total0011

References

  1. "Where do we stand on Tokyo 2020 Olympic qualification in sport climbing?".
  2. "Jessica PILZ Biography, Olympic Medals, Records and Age". International Olympic Committee . Archived from the original on 2022-11-10.
  3. "OLYMPIC CHAMPION GARNBRET WINS PARIS 2024 TICKET WITH PILZ AND MORI". 2023-08-12. Retrieved 2023-08-12.
  4. Aspland, Richard (2024-08-10). "World Climbing". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2024-08-10.
  5. https://ifsc.results.info/rankings
  6. https://www.redbull.com/int-en/events/red-bull-dual-ascent
  7. https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2024/11/jessy_pilz_climbs_papichulo_9a+-73848
  8. https://www.8a.nu/news/jessy-pilz-does-paint-it-black-8c+-7ekl8
  9. https://www.lacrux.com/en/klettern/Jessica-Pilz-with-an-impressive-turkey-ticklist/
  10. UK-Climbing, ed. (6 January 2016). "Two ~8c+'s by Jessy Pilz" . Retrieved October 22, 2017.
  11. IFSC, ed. (August 20, 2019). "World Cup Rankings" . Retrieved August 20, 2019.
  12. 1 2 3 4 5 6 IFSC, ed. (August 20, 2019). "Pilz's profile and rankings" . Retrieved August 20, 2019.