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Nationality | Austrian | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Born | Haag, Austria | 22 November 1996||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Height | 165 cm (5 ft 5 in) | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Weight | 52 kg (115 lb) | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Climbing career | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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Medal record
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Updated on 28 April 2019 |
Jessica Pilz (born 22 November 1996) is an Austrian professional rock climber who specializes in competition climbing. She won the bronze medal in the combined bouldering and lead climbing event at the 2024 Summer Olympics.
Pilz started competing in 2010, both in competition lead climbing and competition bouldering. From 2011 to 2015, she won six international youth competitions in lead climbing. In 2014, she also won both the European Youth Cup and Youth Championships in bouldering.
In 2017, Pilz won the Winter Military World Games both in lead climbing and bouldering.
In 2018, Pilz won the lead climbing event at the 2018 IFSC Climbing World Championships in Innsbruck by climbing the route a few seconds faster than the former World Champion, Janja Garnbret. She won the bronze medal in the combined event at the same World Championships.
In 2019, Pilz placed 10th in the combined event at the 2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships, qualifying her for the 2020 Olympics, [1] where she finished 7th. [2]
In 2021, Pilz won the combined event at the 2021 IFSC Climbing World Championships.
In 2023, Pilz qualified to compete in the combined event at the 2024 Summer Olympics in Paris by placing second in the combined event at the 2023 IFSC Climbing World Championships. [3] Pilz won the overall title in lead climbing in the 2023 IFSC Climbing World Cup series.
In 2024, Pilz won the bronze medal in the combined event at the 2024 Summer Olympics. [4]
She rarely climbs outdoors, but in January 2016, during a short trip to the famous crag of Oliana in Spain, she was able to redpoint two 8c+ (5.14c) graded sport climbing routes. [5]
Discipline [6] | 2012 | 2013 | 2014 | 2015 | 2016 | 2017 | 2018 | 2019 | 2021 | 2022 | 2023 | 2024 |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Lead | 33 | 19 | 13 | 3 | 9 | 4 | 2 | 10 | - | 10 | 1 | 1 |
Bouldering | – | – | – | – | 25 | 58 | 11 | 5 | 12 | 7 | 17 | 11 |
Speed | – | – | – | – | – | 57 | 63 | - | - | - | - | - |
Combined | – | – | – | – | 3 | 10 | 4 | 3 | - | - | 4 |
Youth [7]
Discipline | 2010 Youth B | 2011 Youth B | 2012 Youth A | 2013 Youth A | 2014 Junior | 2015 Junior |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Lead | 16 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 2 | 2 |
Bouldering | – | – | – | – | – | 3 |
Speed | – | – | – | – | – | 21 |
Adult [7]
Discipline | 2016 | 2018 | 2019 | 2023 |
---|---|---|---|---|
Lead | 5 | 1 | 6 | 6 |
Bouldering | - | 4 | 33 | 8 |
Speed | - | 59 | 43 | - |
Combined | - | 3 | 10 | 2 |
Youth [7]
Discipline | 2012 Youth A | 2013 Youth A | 2014 Junior | 2015 Junior |
---|---|---|---|---|
Lead | 1 | 1 | 2 | 1 |
Bouldering | – | 2 | 1 | 2 |
Adult [7]
Discipline | 2013 | 2015 | 2017 |
---|---|---|---|
Lead | 11 | 3 | 3 |
Bouldering | – | 5 | 12 |
Speed | – | 31 | 41 |
Discipline | 2017 |
---|---|
Lead | 1 |
Bouldering | 1 |
Speed | 2 |
Discipline | 2010 Youth B | 2011 Youth B | 2012 Youth A | 2013 Youth A | 2014 Junior | 2015 Junior |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Lead | 5 | 2 | 2 | 6 | 2 | – |
Bouldering | – | 3 | 5 | 12 | 1 | 2 |
Season [7] | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
---|---|---|---|---|
2014 | 1 | 1 | ||
2015 | 3 | 3 | 6 | |
2016 | 1 | 1 | ||
2017 | 1 | 1 | ||
2018 | 2 | 3 | 1 | 6 |
2019 | 1 | 1 | 2 | |
2020 | 0 | |||
2021 | 0 | |||
2022 | 0 | |||
2023 | 2 | 1 | 3 | |
2024 | 1 | 1 | 1 | |
Total | 3 | 12 | 7 | 22 |
Season [7] | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
---|---|---|---|---|
2019 | 1 | 1 | ||
Total | 0 | 0 | 1 | 1 |
Brooke Raboutou is a French-American professional rock climber who specializes in competition climbing where she competes as part of the US National Team. She won the silver medal in the combined bouldering and lead climbing event at the 2024 Summer Olympics.
Janja Garnbret is a Slovenian professional rock climber who specializes in sport climbing and competition climbing. She has won multiple competition lead climbing and competition bouldering events, two Olympic gold medals, and is widely regarded as the greatest competition climber of all time. In 2021, Garnbret became the first-ever female Olympic gold medalist in climbing, and successfully defended her title in 2024. With two gold medals, she is the most successful Slovenian athlete at the Summer Olympics. She is also the world's first-ever female climber to onsight an 8c (5.14b) graded sport climbing route.
Margo Hayes is an American professional rock climber from Boulder, Colorado. In 2016, she won both the competition bouldering and the competition lead climbing events at the IFSC Climbing World Youth Championships in Guangzhou (China). In 2017, she became the first woman in history to climb a 9a+ (5.15a) graded route, and in 2019, became the first woman to complete the "9a+ Trilogy".
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The 2019 IFSC Climbing World Cup was held in 12 locations. Bouldering, lead and speed competitions were each held in 6 locations. The season began on 5 April in Meiringen, Switzerland with the first bouldering competition in the season, and concluded on 27 October in Inzai, Japan, with the last lead climbing competition in the season.
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