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Nationality | Austrian | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Born | Haag, Austria | 22 November 1996|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Height | 165 cm (5 ft 5 in) | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Weight | 52 kg (115 lb) | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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Medal record
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Updated on 28 April 2019. |
Jessica Pilz (born 22 November 1996) is an Austrian professional rock climber who specializes in competition climbing. She won the 2018 IFSC Climbing World Championships for competition lead climbing.
She started competing in 2010, both in competition lead climbing and competition bouldering. From 2011 to 2015, she won six international youth competitions in lead climbing. In 2014, she also won both the European Youth Cup and Youth Championships in bouldering.
In 2017 she won the Winter Military World Games both in lead climbing and bouldering. In 2018, she won the Lead Climbing World Championships in Innsbruck, by climbing the route a few seconds faster than the former World Champion, Janja Garnbret.
In 2019, Pilz placed 10th in the Combined World Championships, qualifying her for the 2020 Olympics, [1] where she finished 7th. [2]
In August 2023, Pilz qualified for the combined event at the 2024 Olympics by placing second in the 2023 World Championship combined event. [3]
She rarely climbs outdoors, but in January 2016, during a short trip to the famous crag of Oliana in Spain, she was able to redpoint two 8c+ (5.14c) graded sport climbing routes. [4]
Discipline | 2012 | 2013 | 2014 | 2015 | 2016 | 2017 | 2018 | 2019 | 2021 | 2022 | 2023 |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Lead | 33 | 19 | 13 | 3 | 9 | 4 | 2 | 10 | - | 10 | 1 |
Bouldering | – | – | – | – | 25 | 58 | 11 | 5 | 12 | 7 | 17 |
Speed | – | – | – | – | – | 57 | 63 | - | - | - | - |
Combined | – | – | – | – | 3 | 10 | 4 | 3 | - | - | 4 |
Youth [6]
Discipline | 2010 Youth B | 2011 Youth B | 2012 Youth A | 2013 Youth A | 2014 Junior | 2015 Junior |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Lead | 16 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 2 | 2 |
Bouldering | – | – | – | – | – | 3 |
Speed | – | – | – | – | – | 21 |
Adult [6]
Discipline | 2016 | 2018 | 2019 | 2023 |
---|---|---|---|---|
Lead | 5 | 1 | 6 | 6 |
Bouldering | - | 4 | 33 | 8 |
Speed | - | 59 | 43 | - |
Combined | - | 3 | 10 | 2 |
Youth [6]
Discipline | 2012 Youth A | 2013 Youth A | 2014 Junior | 2015 Junior |
---|---|---|---|---|
Lead | 1 | 1 | 2 | 1 |
Bouldering | – | 2 | 1 | 2 |
Adult [6]
Discipline | 2013 | 2015 | 2017 |
---|---|---|---|
Lead | 11 | 3 | 3 |
Bouldering | – | 5 | 12 |
Speed | – | 31 | 41 |
Discipline | 2017 |
---|---|
Lead | 1 |
Bouldering | 1 |
Speed | 2 |
Discipline | 2010 Youth B | 2011 Youth B | 2012 Youth A | 2013 Youth A | 2014 Junior | 2015 Junior |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Lead | 5 | 2 | 2 | 6 | 2 | – |
Bouldering | – | 3 | 5 | 12 | 1 | 2 |
Season | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
---|---|---|---|---|
2014 | 1 | 1 | ||
2015 | 3 | 3 | 6 | |
2016 | 1 | 1 | ||
2017 | 1 | 1 | ||
2018 | 2 | 3 | 1 | 6 |
2019 | 1 | 1 | 2 | |
Total | 2 | 9 | 6 | 17 |
Season | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
---|---|---|---|---|
2019 | 1 | 1 | ||
Total | 0 | 0 | 1 | 1 |
Competition climbing is a form of regulated rock climbing competition held indoors on purpose-built artificial climbing walls. The three competition climbing disciplines are lead climbing, bouldering, and speed climbing. The result of multiple disciplines can be used in a "combined" format to determine an all-round winner. Competition climbing is sometimes called "sport climbing", which is the name given to pre-bolted lead climbing.
Janja Garnbret is a Slovenian professional rock climber who specializes in sport climbing and competition climbing, and who has won multiple competition lead climbing and competition bouldering events. In 2021, she became the first-ever female Olympic gold medalist in climbing and is widely regarded as one of the greatest competition climbers of all time. She is also the world's first-ever female climber to onsight an 8c (5.14b) graded sport climbing route. As of 2023, Garnbret had won the most IFSC gold medals of any competition climber in history.
Margo Hayes is an American professional rock climber from Boulder, Colorado. In 2016, she won both the competition bouldering and the competition lead climbing events at the IFSC Climbing World Youth Championships in Guangzhou (China). In 2017, she became the first woman in history to climb a 9a+ (5.15a) graded route, and in 2019, became the first woman to complete the "9a+ Trilogy".
Jakob Schubert is an Austrian professional rock climber, specializing in competition climbing, sport climbing, and bouldering. He was four times World Champion and three times World Cup winner in lead climbing. In August 2021, he won bronze at the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo. As of the end of 2022, Schubert had won the most men's IFSC gold medals of any male competition climber in history. In addition to competition climbing, Schubert is the only climber in the world to have redpointed a 9c (5.15d) route and climbed a 9A boulder problem.
Akiyo Noguchi is a Japanese professional rock climber who specializes in competition bouldering as well as outdoor bouldering and sport climbing.
Jan Hojer is a German professional rock climber specializing in sport climbing, bouldering, and competition climbing. He is known for winning one World Cup and two European Championships in competition bouldering. In May 2010, he climbed Action Directe, one of the most difficult sport climbing routes in the world. From 2013 to 2015, he sent several 8C (V15) boulder problems.
Miho Nonaka is a Japanese competition climber who specializes in competition bouldering. She competed at the 2020 Summer Olympics, in Women's combined, winning a silver medal.
The 2018 IFSC Climbing World Championships, the 15th edition, were held in Innsbruck, Austria from 6 to 16 September 2018. The championships consisted of lead, speed, bouldering, paraclimbing, and combined events.
The 2019 season of the IFSC Climbing World Cup was the 21st season of the competition. Bouldering competitions were held at six stops of the IFSC Climbing World Cup. The bouldering season began on April 5 at the World Cup in Meiringen, and concluded on June 8 with the World Cup in Vail. At each stop a qualifying was held on the first day of the competition, and the semi-final and final rounds were conducted on the second day of the competition. The winners were awarded trophies, and the best three finishers received medals. At the end of the season an overall ranking was determined based upon points, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event.
Futaba Ito is a Japanese professional rock climber, sport climber and boulderer. She participates in both bouldering and lead climbing competitions. She won the IFSC Climbing Asian Youth Championships in lead and bouldering events in 2016, as well as Bouldering Japan Cup in 2017. She participated in combined and speed events at the 2018 Asian Games.
Petra Klingler is a Swiss rock climber who specializes in competition climbing. Known as a versatile climber, she competes in a wide range of competitive events, including competition bouldering, competition speed climbing, competition lead climbing, and also competition ice climbing.
Ai Mori is a Japanese professional rock climber who specializes in competition climbing and the disciplines of competition lead climbing and competition bouldering. At the 2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships, she became the youngest Japanese athlete to finish in a podium place in the competition, third in lead. She has won Japan Cup titles in both bouldering and lead disciplines and has multiple IFSC Climbing World Cup podium finishes, including three gold medals in World Cup events in the 2022 season. At the 2023 IFSC Climbing World Championships, Mori won the gold medal in lead, becoming the first Japanese athlete to win a World Championships lead title.
Oriane Bertone is a French rock climber, who specializes in competition climbing, but is also noted for her sport climbing and her bouldering.
Seo Chae-hyun, also known as Chaehyun Seo, is a South Korean professional rock climber who specializes in competition climbing. She won the overall 2019 World Cup title in competition lead climbing in her senior debut season.
Laura Rogora is an Italian rock climber who specializes in sport climbing and in competition climbing. In 2021, she became the third-ever female climber in history to redpoint a 9b (5.15b)-graded sport climbing route, with her ascent of Erebor in Italy.
Natalia Grossman is an American professional rock climber who specializes in competition climbing. She represents the United States at IFSC Climbing World Cup in competition bouldering and competition lead climbing. She won gold and silver at the 2021 IFSC Climbing World Championships, and has 19 podium finishes at World Cup events, including nine golds. In October 2023, Grossman qualified for the 2024 Olympic games in Paris by winning the boulder & lead combined competition at the 2023 Pan American Games.
Sean Bailey is an American professional rock climber, who specializes in competition climbing, sport climbing, and bouldering. He has represented the United States in the IFSC Climbing World Cup in lead climbing, and has two podium finishes in bouldering at individual legs of the World Cup, including a win at the Salt Lake City leg of the 2021 World Cup.1 and three in lead climbing, including two gold medals, at the Villars leg, and Chamonix leg, in July 2021.
Colin Duffy is an American professional rock climber who specializes in competition climbing. At age 16, he became the youngest climber to qualify to compete at the 2020 Summer Olympic Games in Tokyo, and the second American male climber to do so, after winning the 2020 IFSC Pan American Championships in March 2020.
Yoshiyuki Ogata is a Japanese professional competition climber and boulderer. He has won multiple medals in competition bouldering at IFSC Climbing World Cup events, including gold medals at Vail in 2019 and at Innsbruck in 2021. Ogata won the overall IFSC Men's Bouldering title for the 2021 and 2022 seasons and finished third overall in 2019.
Sorato Anraku is a Japanese rock climber who specializes in competition climbing, and competition lead climbing and competition bouldering in particular. In 2023, Anraku became the first climber to win both the Lead Overall World Cup and Boulder Overall World Cup in his debut senior season. He also won gold in the combined boulder and lead event at the 2022 Asian Games, held in October 2023.