2021 IFSC Climbing World Cup

Last updated
2021 IFSC Climbing World Cup
Organiser IFSC
Edition33rd
Events
11
  • 4 Boulder
    5 Lead
    2 Speed
Locations
8
Dates16 April – 4 September 2021
Lead
Men Flag of Italy.svg Stefano Ghisolfi
Women Flag of Slovenia.svg Janja Garnbret
Team Flag of Slovenia.svg Slovenia
Boulder
Men Flag of Japan.svg Yoshiyuki Ogata
Women Flag of the United States.svg Natalia Grossman
Team Flag of Japan.svg Japan
Speed
Men Flag of Indonesia.svg Veddriq Leonardo
Women Flag of the United States.svg Emma Hunt
Team Flag of Indonesia.svg Indonesia
  2020
2022  

The 2021 IFSC Climbing World Cup was the 33rd edition of the international sport climbing competition series, held in seven locations. There are 11 events: four bouldering, five lead, and two speed events. The season began on 16 April in Meiringen, Switzerland with the first bouldering competition in the season, and concluded on 4 September in Kranj, Slovenia. The International Federation of Sport Climbing had initially scheduled 18 events concluding on 31 October, but COVID-19 travel restrictions resulted in the cancellation of events in Xiamen and Wujiang in China, Jakarta in Indonesia and Seoul in South Korea.

Contents

This season was the first completed IFSC Climbing World Cup series since the 2019 edition, as the 2020 IFSC Climbing World Cup was limited to just one event, the Briançon Lead World Cup in August 2020, due to the pandemic. The opening event in Meiringen was the first Boulder World Cup since the 2019 season. The Boulder World Cup and the Boulder and Speed World Cup scheduled for 21–22 May and 28–30 May, respectively, in Salt Lake City, United States, were the first-ever consecutive IFSC World Cups held in the same city. [1]

The top 3 in each competition receive medals, and the overall winners are awarded trophies. At the end of the season an overall ranking is determined based upon points, which athletes are awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event.

Season winners

EventFirstSecondThird
Men's Lead Flag of Italy.svg Stefano Ghisolfi 319 points Flag of the United States.svg Sean Bailey 277 points Flag of Japan.svg Masahiro Higuchi 263 points
Women's Lead Flag of Slovenia.svg Janja Garnbret 300 points Flag of the United States.svg Natalia Grossman 296 points Flag of Italy.svg Laura Rogora 278 points
Men's Bouldering Flag of Japan.svg Yoshiyuki Ogata 255 points Flag of Japan.svg Kokoro Fujii 255 points Flag of the Czech Republic.svg Adam Ondra 200 points
Women's Bouldering Flag of the United States.svg Natalia Grossman 345 points Flag of Slovenia.svg Janja Garnbret 280 points Flag of France.svg Oriane Bertone 235 points
Men's Speed Flag of Indonesia.svg Veddriq Leonardo 200 points Flag of Indonesia.svg Kiromal Katibin 145 points Flag of Poland.svg Marcin Dzieński 96 points
Women's Speed Flag of the United States.svg Emma Hunt 131 points Flag of Poland.svg Patrycja Chudziak 120 points Flag of Poland.svg Aleksandra Mirosław
Flag of Russia.svg Ekaterina Barashchuk
100 points

Scheduling

In December 2020, the IFSC moved the 21–22 May Boulder World Cup from Munich, Germany to Salt Lake City, United States, and rescheduled the already existing Boulder & Speed World Cup in Salt Lake City from 11–13 June to 28–30 May, in order to minimize travel for athletes and staff. [2] In March, the federation also moved the Seoul, South Korea and Wujiang, China World Cups from April and May to October because of ongoing COVID-19 related restrictions in the respective countries. [3] In July, the Lead World Cup in Ljubljana, Slovenia was moved to Kranj, Slovenia, and rescheduled from 4–5 to 3–4 September. [4]

In August, the federation cancelled the World Cups in China: the 15–17 October Lead & Speed World Cup in Xiamen and the 22–24 October Boulder & Speed World Cup in Wujiang. [5] [6] In September, the federation also cancelled the 30–31 October Speed World Cup in Jakarta, Indonesia, which had already been postponed from 23 to 24 October. [7] [8] The following week, the IFSC also cancelled the Boulder and Speed World Cup in Seoul, originally scheduled for May and pushed back to October, due to rising COVID-19 cases in South Korea. The cancellation of the Jakarta and Seoul World Cups mean the bouldering and speed seasons concluded in June in Innsbruck and Villars in July, respectively. [9]

Competition highlights

Because of the cancellations caused by the COVID-19 pandemic, the opening World Cup event of 2021 Meiringen held 16–17 April 2021, was the first Boulder World Cup in 22 months, since Vail, Colorado in September 2019., [10] and the first Climbing World Cup of any discipline since August 2020 in Briançon. Adam Ondra won the men's gold, his 20th career World Cup medal, with 3 tops in the final. [11] On the women's side, Slovenia's Janja Garnbret continued her winning run from her unbeaten 2019 bouldering campaign, winning the competition by topping all boulders with just four falls while 16-year-old French climber Oriane Bertone made her senior competition debut with a second-place finish behind Garnbret. [10]

Garnbret did not participate in the first of two World Cups in Salt Lake City held 21–22 May, bringing her streak of seven Boulder World Cup wins to an end. In her absence, Grossman won the gold, followed by Bertone, who again finished second, while Ondra repeated as the men's Boulder winner. [12] Grossman repeated as the winner in the second Salt Lake City event, held 28–30 May, this time becoming the first woman to defeat Garnbret, who finished second, since April 2018. [13] In the men's speed competition, Kiromal Katibin of Indonesia set a world record time of 5.258 seconds in qualifying, a record that was broken the same day by fellow Indonesian, Veddriq Leonardo, who hit the buzzer at 5.20 in the final run against Katibin. [13]

Garnbret won all three Lead World Cups she entered in 2021, winning a record 31st World Cup gold medal in Kranj in September and taking the overall season title. [14] On the men's side, Stefano Ghisolfi took the Lead season title, having won the event in Briançon in addition to two second places at the World Cups in Innsbruck and Chamonix, while Sean Bailey's two wins in Villars and Chamonix earned him second place in the overall Lead season ranking.

Broadcast incident

Austrian broadcaster Osterreichischer Rundfunk (ORF) issued an apology during the Innsbruck World Cup, after showing slow-motion, close-up footage that zoomed on the chalk handprints on Johanna Färber's bottom on the event's live feed on YouTube. IFSC removed the video from its YouTube channel and replaced it a version without the footage. Färber later posted a message on her Instagram, calling the incident "disrespectful and upsetting" [15]

Overview

No.LocationDGGoldSilverBronze
1 Flag of Switzerland (Pantone).svg Meiringen, Switzerland
April, 16–18
BM Flag of the Czech Republic.svg Adam Ondra 3T3z 10 7 Flag of Japan.svg Yoshiyuki Ogata 2T4z 7 9 Flag of Japan.svg Tomoaki Takata 1T4z 4 12
W Flag of Slovenia.svg Janja Garnbret 4T4z 7 6 Flag of France.svg Oriane Bertone 2T4z 8 10 Flag of the United States.svg Natalia Grossman 2T4z 10 10
2 Flag of the United States.svg Salt Lake City, United States
May, 21-22 [Note 1]
BM Flag of the Czech Republic.svg Adam Ondra 4T4z 8 7 Flag of France.svg Mejdi Schalck 3T4z 4 5 Flag of Austria.svg Jakob Schubert 3T3z 4 4
W Flag of the United States.svg Natalia Grossman 4T4z 15 14 Flag of France.svg Oriane Bertone 3T4z 7 7 Flag of the United States.svg Brooke Raboutou 3T3z 4 3
3 Flag of the United States.svg Salt Lake City, United States
May, 28–30 [Note 2]
BM Flag of the United States.svg Sean Bailey 2T4z 9 11 Flag of Japan.svg Kokoro Fujii 1T4z 9 12 Flag of Japan.svg Tomoa Narasaki 1T3z 1 3
W Flag of the United States.svg Natalia Grossman 4T4z 4 4 Flag of Slovenia.svg Janja Garnbret 4T4z 6 6 Flag of the United States.svg Brooke Raboutou 3T4z 5 8
SM Flag of Indonesia.svg Veddriq Leonardo 5.208 Flag of Indonesia.svg Kiromal Katibin fall Flag of Poland.svg Marcin Dzieński 5.842
W Flag of Poland.svg Aleksandra Mirosław 7.382 Flag of the United States.svg Emma Hunt 7.539 Flag of Japan.svg Miho Nonaka 8.958
4 Flag of Austria.svg Innsbruck, Austria
June, 23–26 [Note 3]
BM Flag of Japan.svg Yoshiyuki Ogata 2T2z 7 7 Flag of Japan.svg Tomoa Narasaki 1T3z 2 11 Flag of Japan.svg Kokoro Fujii 1T1z 2 2
W Flag of Slovenia.svg Janja Garnbret 3T3z 3 3 Flag of the United States.svg Natalia Grossman 3T3z 9 9 Flag of Serbia.svg Staša Gejo 1T3z 2 6
LM Flag of Austria.svg Jakob Schubert 47+ Flag of Italy.svg Stefano Ghisolfi 47 Flag of Switzerland (Pantone).svg Sascha Lehman 38+
W Flag of Slovenia.svg Janja Garnbret TOP Flag of the United States.svg Brooke Raboutou 40 Flag of Japan.svg Akiyo Noguchi 38
5 Flag of Switzerland (Pantone).svg Villars, Switzerland
July, 1–3
LM Flag of the United States.svg Sean Bailey 38 Flag of Germany.svg Alexander Megos 35+ Flag of the United States.svg Colin Duffy 31+
W Flag of Slovenia.svg Janja Garnbret TOP Flag of Italy.svg Laura Rogora TOP Flag of the United States.svg Natalia Grossman 42+
SM Flag of Indonesia.svg Veddriq Leonardo 5.329 Flag of Russia.svg Dmitrii Timofeev 7.35 Flag of Indonesia.svg Kiromal Katibin 5.306
W Flag of Russia.svg Ekaterina Barashchuk 7.306 Flag of Russia.svg Iuliia Kaplina 8.397 Flag of Poland.svg Patrycja Chudziak 7.736
6 Flag of France.svg Chamonix, France
July, 12–13
LM Flag of the United States.svg Sean Bailey 34+ Flag of Italy.svg Stefano Ghisolfi 32 Flag of the Czech Republic.svg Martin Stráník 32
W Flag of Italy.svg Laura Rogora TOP Flag of the United States.svg Natalia Grossman 41+ Flag of Bulgaria.svg Aleksandra Totkova 38+
7 Flag of France.svg Briançon, France
July, 17–18
LM Flag of Italy.svg Stefano Ghisolfi 42+ Flag of Russia.svg Dmitrii Fakirianov 39+ Flag of the Czech Republic.svg Martin Stráník 37+
W Flag of the Czech Republic.svg Eliška Adamovská 36 Flag of the United States.svg Natalia Grossman 35+ Flag of Slovenia.svg Vita Lukan 29
8 Flag of Slovenia.svg Kranj, Slovenia
September, 3–4 [Note 4]
LM Flag of Japan.svg Masahiro Higuchi 37 Flag of Slovenia.svg Luka Potočar 31+ Flag of Germany.svg Sebastian Halenke 31+
W Flag of Slovenia.svg Janja Garnbret 49+ Flag of South Korea.svg Chaehyun Seo 46 Flag of the United States.svg Natalia Grossman 41+
  1. Originally scheduled to be held in Munich, Germany.
  2. Moved from 11–13 June.
  3. Boulder finals suspended after three problems because of rainstorm.
  4. Originally scheduled to be held in Ljubljana, Slovenia. Moved from 4–5 September.

[16]

Bouldering

The overall ranking is determined based upon points, which athletes are awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event. There were four competitions in the season. The national ranking is the sum of the points of that country's three best male and female athletes. Results displayed (in brackets) are not counted.

Men

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Bouldering World Cup 2021: [17]

RankNamePoints Meiringen Salt Lake City I Salt Lake City II Innsbruck
1 Flag of Japan.svg Yoshiyuki Ogata 2552. 8016. 204. 551. 100
2 Flag of Japan.svg Kokoro Fujii 2554. 554. 552. 803. 65
3 Flag of the Czech Republic.svg Adam Ondra 2001. 1001. 100( — )( — )
4 Flag of the United States.svg Sean Bailey 16613. 268. 401. 10047. 0
5 Flag of France.svg Mejdi Schalck 15712. 282. 809. 3720. 12
6 Flag of Japan.svg Tomoa Narasaki 145( — )( — )3. 652. 80
7 Flag of the United States.svg Nathaniel Coleman 1425. 5121. 1010. 346. 47
8 Flag of Austria.svg Nicolai Užnik 13214. 2411. 3115. 224. 55
9 Flag of Germany.svg Alexander Megos 1298. 409. 3714. 2412. 28
10 Flag of Belgium (civil).svg Simon Lorenzi 123.529. 1.57. 4312. 285. 51

Women

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Bouldering World Cup 2021: [18]

RankNamePoints Meiringen Salt Lake City I Salt Lake City II Innsbruck
1 Flag of the United States.svg Natalia Grossman 3453. 651. 1001. 1002. 80
2 Flag of Slovenia.svg Janja Garnbret 2801. 100( — )2. 801. 100
3 Flag of France.svg Oriane Bertone 2352. 802. 804. 5516. 20
4 Flag of the United States.svg Brooke Raboutou 2079. 373. 653. 658. 40
5 Flag of Japan.svg Miho Nonaka 1927. 434. 556. 476. 47
6 Flag of Serbia.svg Staša Gejo 17313. 2611. 315. 513. 65
7 Flag of Slovenia.svg Katja Debevec 1586. 478. 407. 4312. 28
8 Flag of Japan.svg Futaba Ito 135( — )7. 439. 374. 55
9 Flag of Japan.svg Akiyo Noguchi 1224. 55( — )18. 165. 51
10 Flag of Japan.svg Mao Nakamura 92( — )10. 3414. 2410. 34

National Teams

The results of the ten most successful countries of the Bouldering World Cup 2021: [19]

Country names as used by the IFSC

RankNamePoints Meiringen Salt Lake City I Salt Lake City II Innsbruck
1 Flag of Japan.svg Japan1235.02. 298.03. 231.02. 308.01. 398.0
2Flag of the United States.svg United States1088.03. 209.01. 265.01. 390.02. 224.0
3 Flag of Slovenia.svg Slovenia 798.01. 312.05. 148.04. 168.03. 170.0
4Flag of France.svg France635.854. 156.62. 238.753. 177.08. 63.5
5 Flag of Austria.svg Austria498.257. 91.954. 204.010. 34.84. 167.5
6 Flag of Germany.svg Germany403.16. 93.56. 119.05. 108.05. 82.6
7 Flag of Belgium (civil).svg Belgium215.5512. 22.08. 69.557. 51.06. 73.0
8 Flag of the Czech Republic.svg Czech Republic 200.05. 100.07. 100.0( — )( — )
9 Flag of Italy.svg Italy190.611. 22.959. 66.09. 45.710. 55.95
10 Flag of Serbia.svg Serbia 173.010. 26.011. 31.07. 51.07. 65.0

* = Joint place with another athlete

Lead

The overall ranking is determined based upon points, which athletes are awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event. There were five competitions in the season. The national ranking is the sum of the points of that country's three best male and female athletes. Results displayed in parentheses are not counted.

Men

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Lead World Cup 2021: [20]

RankNAMEPoints Innsbruck Villars Chamonix Briançon Kranj
1 Flag of Italy.svg Stefano Ghisolfi 3192. 8011. 312. 801. 10012. 28
2 Flag of the United States.svg Sean Bailey 277( — )1. 1001. 1004. 5515. 22
3 Flag of Japan.svg Masahiro Higuchi 2634. 557. 439. 3712. 281. 100
4 Flag of Slovenia.svg Luka Potočar 2127. 4325. 67. 438. 402. 80
5 Flag of Switzerland (Pantone).svg Sascha Lehmann 2043. 6512. 284. 555. 5126. 5
6 Flag of the Czech Republic.svg Martin Stráník 192.8712. 2832. 0.873. 653. 6510. 34
7 Flag of Spain.svg Alberto Ginés López 1695. 515. 5114. 247. 43( — )
8 Flag of Germany.svg Sebastian Halenke 160.057. 04. 5515. 2217. 183. 65
9 Flag of Slovenia.svg Domen Škofic 13517. 1815. 2225. 610. 344. 55
10 Flag of Germany.svg Alexander Megos 1276. 472. 80( — )( — )( — )

Women

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Lead World Cup 2021: [21]

RankNAMEPoints Innsbruck Villars Chamonix Briançon Kranj
1 Flag of Slovenia.svg Janja Garnbret 3001. 1001. 100( — )( — )1. 100
2 Flag of the United States.svg Natalia Grossman 29625. 63. 652. 802. 803. 65
3 Flag of Italy.svg Laura Rogora 2787. 432. 801. 100( — )4. 55
4 Flag of Slovenia.svg Vita Lukan 2696. 475. 514. 553. 655. 51
5 Flag of Slovenia.svg Lucka Rakovec 1858. 407. 4323. 86. 476. 47
6 Flag of Bulgaria.svg Aleksandra Totkova 16818. 166. 473. 658. 40( — )
7 Flag of the Czech Republic.svg Eliška Adamovská 16212. 28( — )10. 341. 100( — )
8 Flag of Japan.svg Momoko Abe 14613. 264. 5511. 3125. 612. 28
9 Flag of Japan.svg Natsuki Tanii 128( — )( — )5. 519. 378. 40
9 Flag of Slovenia.svg Lana Skusek 12816. 2011. 3143. 07. 4310. 34

National Teams

The results of the ten most successful countries of the Lead World Cup 2021: [22]

Country names as used by the IFSC

RankNationPoints Innsbruck Villars Chamonix Briançon Kranj
1 Flag of Slovenia.svg Slovenia 1244.02. 274.02. 229.05. 135.01. 230.01. 376.0
2 Flag of Japan.svg Japan1041.01. 279.03. 193.04. 158.05. 134.02. 277.0
3Flag of the United States.svg United States905.955. 110.551. 269.02. 237.02. 200.55. 88.9
4 Flag of Italy.svg Italy796.83. 149.756. 132.851. 244.54. 164.04. 105.7
5Flag of France.svg France593.958. 80.755. 147.23. 192.07. 87.06. 87.0
6 Flag of Germany.svg Germany547.210. 57.24. 159.07. 91.356. 95.853. 143.8
7 Flag of the Czech Republic.svg Czech Republic 396.557. 96.019. 0.96. 99.853. 165.813. 34.0
8 Flag of Austria.svg Austria364.254. 117.657. 71.7513. 35.59. 77.758. 61.6
9 Flag of Switzerland (Pantone).svg Switzerland340.156. 96.39. 50.48. 86.810. 70.9512. 35.7
10 Flag of Russia.svg Russia262.559. 57.7511. 41.812. 40.08. 80.011. 43.0

Speed

The overall ranking is determined based upon points, which athletes are awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event. There were two competitions in the season. The national ranking is the sum of the points of that country's three best male and female athletes. Results displayed (in brackets) are not counted.

Men

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Speed World Cup 2021: [23]

RankNamePoints Salt Lake City Villars
1 Flag of Indonesia.svg Veddriq Leonardo 2001. 1001. 100
2 Flag of Indonesia.svg Kiromal Katibin 1452. 803. 65
3 Flag of Poland.svg Marcin Dzieński 963. 6511. 31
4 Flag of the United States.svg John Brosler 814. 5513. 26
5 Flag of Russia.svg Dmitrii Timofeev 802. 80
6 Flag of France.svg Pierre Rebreyend 597. 4318. 16
7 Flag of Russia.svg Vladislav Deulin 554. 55
8 Flag of the United States.svg Merritt Ernsberger 515. 51
8 Flag of Iran.svg Mehdi Alipour 515. 51
10 Flag of Ukraine.svg Yaroslav Tkach 508. 4021. 10

Women

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Speed World Cup 2021: [24]

RankNamePoints Salt Lake City Villars
1 Flag of the United States.svg Emma Hunt 1312. 805. 51
2 Flag of Poland.svg Patrycja Chudziak 1204. 553. 65
3 Flag of Poland.svg Aleksandra Mirosław 100*1. 100
3 Flag of Russia.svg Ekaterina Barashchuk 100*1. 100
5 Flag of France.svg Anouck Jaubert 94*5. 517. 43
5 Flag of Poland.svg Natalia Kalucka 94*6. 476. 47
7 Flag of Russia.svg Iuliia Kaplina 852. 80
8 Flag of France.svg Capucine Viglione 748. 4010. 34
9 Flag of Japan.svg Miho Nonaka 653. 65
10 Flag of Indonesia.svg Desak Made Rita Kusuma Dewi 554. 55

National Teams

The results of the ten most successful countries of the Speed World Cup 2021: [25]

Country names as used by the IFSC

RankNationPoints Salt Lake City Villars
1 Flag of Indonesia.svg Indonesia 5034. 180.02. 323.0
2 Flag of Poland.svg Poland4472. 267.03. 180.0
3Flag of the United States.svg United States396.81. 276.05. 120.8
4 Flag of Russia.svg Russia3841. 384.0
5Flag of France.svg France3403. 207.04. 133.0
6 Flag of Japan.svg 140.555. 139.5515. 1.0
7 Flag of Italy.svg Italy132.57. 75.07. 57.5
8 Flag of Ukraine.svg Ukraine 1306. 95.010. 35.0
9 Flag of Austria.svg Austria101.88. 63.99. 37.9
10 Flag of Germany.svg 85.859. 63.012. 22.85

* = Joint place with another athlete

Medal table

RankNationGoldSilverBronzeTotal
1Flag of the United States.svg  United States  (USA)55616
2Flag of Slovenia.svg  Slovenia  (SLO)5218
3Flag of the Czech Republic.svg  Czech Republic  (CZE)3025
4Flag of Japan.svg  Japan  (JPN)23510
5Flag of Italy.svg  Italy  (ITA)2305
6Flag of Indonesia.svg  Indonesia  (INA)2114
7Flag of Russia.svg  Russia  (RUS)1304
8Flag of Poland.svg  Poland  (POL)1023
9Flag of Austria.svg  Austria  (AUT)1012
10Flag of France.svg  France  (FRA)0303
11Flag of Germany.svg  Germany  (GER)0112
12Flag of South Korea.svg  South Korea  (KOR)0101
13Flag of Bulgaria.svg  Bulgaria  (BUL)0011
Flag of Serbia.svg  Serbia  (SER)0011
Flag of Switzerland (Pantone).svg   Switzerland  (SUI)0011
Totals (15 entries)22222266

See also

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Lead climbing competitions at the 2021 IFSC Climbing World Cup were held at five locations, from 23 June to 4 September 2021. The International Federation of Sport Climbing had initially scheduled six lead climbing events concluding on 17 October, but COVID-19 travel restrictions resulted in the cancellation of event in Xiamen, China.

Speed climbing competitions at the 2021 IFSC Climbing World Cup are being held at two locations, from 28 May to 3 July 2021. The International Federation of Sport Climbing had originally scheduled six speed climbing events concluding on 31 October, but COVID-19 travel restrictions resulted in the cancellation of events in Xiamen and Wujiang in China, Jakarta in Indonesia and Seoul in South Korea.

The 2022 IFSC Climbing World Cup is the 34th edition of the international sport climbing competition series organised by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC), held in 12 locations. There are 21 events: six bouldering, seven lead, seven speed, and one bouldering & lead combined events. The series began on 8 April in Meiringen, Switzerland with the first bouldering competitions of the season, and concluded on 22 October in Morioka-Iwate, Japan, which introduced the Boulder & Lead combined format that will be used at the 2024 Summer Olympics in Paris.

References

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