Lead climbing at the 2021 IFSC Climbing World Cup | |
---|---|
Location | |
Dates | 23 June – 4 September 2021 |
Champions | |
Men | Stefano Ghisolfi |
Women | Janja Garnbret |
Competition lead climbing at the 2021 IFSC Climbing World Cup was held at five locations, from 23 June to 4 September 2021. The International Federation of Sport Climbing had initially scheduled six competition-lead climbing events concluding on 17 October, but COVID-19 travel restrictions resulted in the cancellation of the event in Xiamen, China. [1]
The top three in each competition received medals, and at the end of the season, the overall winners were awarded trophies. The overall winners were determined based upon points, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event. Stefano Ghisolfi won the men's seasonal title, Janja Garnbret won the women's seasonal title, and Slovenia won the national team title. [2]
Date | Location | Venue | Route-setters* | Men | Women |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
June, 23–26 | Innsbruck, Austria | Kletterzentrum Innsbruck [3] | Jakob Schubert | Janja Garnbret | |
July, 1–3 | Villars, Switzerland | Place du Rendez-Vous [4] | Sean Bailey | Janja Garnbret | |
July, 12–13 | Chamonix, France | Place du Mont Blanc [5] | Sean Bailey | Laura Rogora | |
July, 17–18 | Briançon, France | Parc des Sports [6] | Stefano Ghisolfi | Eliška Adamovská | |
September, 3–4 | Kranj, Slovenia | Dvorana Zlato polje [7] | Masahiro Higuchi | Janja Garnbret | |
OVERALL WINNERS | Stefano Ghisolfi | Janja Garnbret | |||
NATIONAL TEAM | Slovenia |
* Chief route-setters are in bold.
The overall ranking is determined based upon points, which athletes are awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event. There are five competitions in the season. The national ranking is the sum of the points of that country's three best male and female athletes. Results displayed in parentheses are not counted.
The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Lead World Cup 2021: [8]
Rank | NAME | Points | Innsbruck | Villars | Chamonix | Briançon | Kranj |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Stefano Ghisolfi | 319 | 2. 80 | 11. 31 | 2. 80 | 1. 100 | 12. 28 |
2 | Sean Bailey | 277 | ( — ) | 1. 100 | 1. 100 | 4. 55 | 15. 22 |
3 | Masahiro Higuchi | 263 | 4. 55 | 7. 43 | 9. 37 | 12. 28 | 1. 100 |
4 | Luka Potočar | 212 | 7. 43 | 25. 6 | 7. 43 | 8. 40 | 2. 80 |
5 | Sascha Lehmann | 204 | 3. 65 | 12. 28 | 4. 55 | 5. 51 | 26. 5 |
6 | Martin Stráník | 192.87 | 12. 28 | 32. 0.87 | 3. 65 | 3. 65 | 10. 34 |
7 | Alberto Ginés López | 169 | 5. 51 | 5. 51 | 14. 24 | 7. 43 | ( — ) |
8 | Sebastian Halenke | 160.0 | 57. 0 | 4. 55 | 15. 22 | 17. 18 | 3. 65 |
9 | Domen Škofic | 135 | 17. 18 | 15. 22 | 25. 6 | 10. 34 | 4. 55 |
10 | Alexander Megos | 127 | 6. 47 | 2. 80 | ( — ) | ( — ) | ( — ) |
The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Lead World Cup 2021: [9]
Rank | NAME | Points | Innsbruck | Villars | Chamonix | Briançon | Kranj |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Janja Garnbret | 300 | 1. 100 | 1. 100 | ( — ) | ( — ) | 1. 100 |
2 | Natalia Grossman | 296 | 25. 6 | 3. 65 | 2. 80 | 2. 80 | 3. 65 |
3 | Laura Rogora | 278 | 7. 43 | 2. 80 | 1. 100 | ( — ) | 4. 55 |
4 | Vita Lukan | 269 | 6. 47 | 5. 51 | 4. 55 | 3. 65 | 5. 51 |
5 | Lucka Rakovec | 185 | 8. 40 | 7. 43 | 23. 8 | 6. 47 | 6. 47 |
6 | Aleksandra Totkova | 168 | 18. 16 | 6. 47 | 3. 65 | 8. 40 | ( — ) |
7 | Eliška Adamovská | 162 | 12. 28 | ( — ) | 10. 34 | 1. 100 | ( — ) |
8 | Momoko Abe | 146 | 13. 26 | 4. 55 | 11. 31 | 25. 6 | 12. 28 |
9 | Natsuki Tanii | 128 | ( — ) | ( — ) | 5. 51 | 9. 37 | 8. 40 |
9 | Lana Skusek | 128 | 16. 20 | 11. 31 | 43. 0 | 7. 43 | 10. 34 |
The results of the ten most successful countries of the Lead World Cup 2021: [10]
Country names as used by the IFSC
Rank | Nation | Points | Innsbruck | Villars | Chamonix | Briançon | Kranj |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Slovenia | 1244.0 | 2. 274.0 | 2. 229.0 | 5. 135.0 | 1. 230.0 | 1. 376.0 |
2 | 1041.0 | 1. 279.0 | 3. 193.0 | 4. 158.0 | 5. 134.0 | 2. 277.0 | |
3 | United States | 905.95 | 5. 110.55 | 1. 269.0 | 2. 237.0 | 2. 200.5 | 5. 88.9 |
4 | Italy | 796.8 | 3. 149.75 | 6. 132.85 | 1. 244.5 | 4. 164.0 | 4. 105.7 |
5 | France | 593.95 | 8. 80.75 | 5. 147.2 | 3. 192.0 | 7. 87.0 | 6. 87.0 |
6 | Germany | 547.2 | 10. 57.2 | 4. 159.0 | 7. 91.35 | 6. 95.85 | 3. 143.8 |
7 | Czech Republic | 396.55 | 7. 96.0 | 19. 0.9 | 6. 99.85 | 3. 165.8 | 13. 34.0 |
8 | Austria | 364.25 | 4. 117.65 | 7. 71.75 | 13. 35.5 | 9. 77.75 | 8. 61.6 |
9 | Switzerland | 340.15 | 6. 96.3 | 9. 50.4 | 8. 86.8 | 10. 70.95 | 12. 35.7 |
10 | Russia | 262.55 | 9. 57.75 | 11. 41.8 | 12. 40.0 | 8. 80.0 | 11. 43.0 |
99 men competed in the event. [11]
Italy's Stefano Ghisolfi set an early high-point in the final which could only be surpassed by Austria's Jakob Schubert who took first place in front of his home crowd. Switzerland's Sascha Lehmann took third place after pushing Japan's Masahiro Higuchi to fourth place on count-back. Czech Republic's superstar Adam Ondra slipped low down on the final route and placed 8th. [12]
Rank | Name | Qualification | Semi-Final | Final | ||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Route 1 | Route 2 | Points | ||||||
Score | Rank | Score | Rank | |||||
Jakob Schubert | 38 | 1 | 38+ | 3 | 1.73 | 39+ | 47+ | |
Stefano Ghisolfi | 37 | 3 | 35 | 6 | 5.1 | 31+ | 47 | |
Sascha Lehmann | 34+ | 8 | 31+ | 14 | 11.62 | 39+ | 38+ | |
4 | Masahiro Higuchi | 37 | 3 | 11 | 89 | 18.97 | 34+ | 38+ |
5 | Alberto Ginés López | 32 | 16 | 34+ | 8 | 12.33 | 41+ | 37+ |
6 | Alexander Megos | 37 | 3 | 39+ | 2 | 2.83 | 38+ | 37+ |
7 | Luka Potočar | 32+ | 13 | 23 | 34 | 21.82 | 39+ | 27+ |
8 | Adam Ondra | 37+ | 2 | TOP | 1 | 1.41 | 42+ | 17 |
75 women competed in the event. [13]
Slovenia's Janja Garnbret claimed the only top on the final route, claiming the win. USA's Brooke Raboutou placed second while Japan's Akiyo Noguchi placed third. [12]
Rank | Name | Qualification | Semi-Final | Final | ||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Route 1 | Route 2 | Points | ||||||
Score | Rank | Score | Rank | |||||
Janja Garnbret | TOP | 1 | TOP | 1 | 1.41 | 42+ | TOP | |
Brooke Raboutou | 39+ | 4 | TOP | 1 | 2.83 | 36.5+ | 40 | |
Akiyo Noguchi | 31 | 11 | 35+ | 4 | 7.5 | 32+ | 33+ | |
4 | Viktoriia Meshkova | 31+ | 7 | 33+ | 10 | 10.91 | 35 | 22+ |
5 | Miho Nonaka | 31 | 11 | 33+ | 10 | 13.23 | 32 | 22+ |
6 | Vita Lukan | 41 | 3 | 34 | 7 | 4.9 | 35+ | 19+ |
7 | Laura Rogora | 46+ | 2 | TOP | 1 | 2.0 | 42 | 13+ |
8 | Lucka Rakovec | 33 | 5 | 34 | 7 | 6.32 | 36.5+ | 13+ |
68 men competed in the event. [14]
USA's Sean Bailey won the gold medal. Germany's Alexander Megos took second while USA's Colin Duffy took third. [15] [16]
Rank | Name | Qualification | Semi-Final | Final | ||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Route 1 | Route 2 | Points | ||||||
Score | Rank | Score | Rank | |||||
Sean Bailey | TOP | 1 | 32+ | 18 | 9.64 | 40 | 38 | |
Alexander Megos | 39+ | 8 | TOP | 1 | 5.61 | 37+ | 35+ | |
Colin Duffy | 38+ | 16 | TOP | 1 | 7.04 | 36 | 31+ | |
4 | Sebastian Halenke | 39+ | 8 | 32+ | 18 | 18.04 | 37+ | 26.5+ |
5 | Alberto Ginés López | 39+ | 8 | 33 | 15 | 12.96 | 40+ | 26.5 |
6 | Paul Jenft | 35 | 21 | TOP | 1 | 8.31 | 36 | 26 |
7 | Masahiro Higuchi | 39+ | 8 | 32+ | 18 | 18.04 | 37+ | 12 |
8 | Zento Murashita | 35 | 21 | 34 | 8 | 14.78 | 36+ | 11+ |
53 women competed in the event. [17]
Slovenia's Janja Garnbret topped all the routes in the competition, taking the win. Italy's Laura Rogora also topped the final route, but took silver due to count-back. USA's Natalia Grossman took bronze. [15] [16]
Rank | Name | Qualification | Semi-Final | Final | ||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Route 1 | Route 2 | Points | ||||||
Score | Rank | Score | Rank | |||||
Janja Garnbret | TOP | 1 | TOP | 1 | 1.41 | TOP | TOP | |
Laura Rogora | 20+ | 17 | TOP | 1 | 7.35 | 45+ | TOP | |
Natalia Grossman | 35+ | 5 | 40+ | 4 | 5.24 | 34+ | 42+ | |
4 | Momoko Abe | 36+ | 3 | TOP | 1 | 2.65 | 35+ | 40+ |
5 | Vita Lukan | 20+ | 17 | 40+ | 4 | 12.19 | 35+ | 40+ |
6 | Aleksandra Totkova | 32+ | 6 | 35+ | 11 | 8.46 | 36+ | 33+ |
7 | Lucka Rakovec | 37 | 2 | 40+ | 4 | 3.32 | 40+ | 17+ |
8 | Mia Krampl | 36+ | 3 | 35 | 12 | 6.48 | 35 | 17+ |
73 men competed in the event. [18]
USA's Sean Bailey claimed his second win in the Lead World Cup. Italy's Stefano Ghisolfi and Czech Republic's Martin Stráník fell at the same crux in the final round and placed second and third respectively on count-back. [19] [20]
Rank | Name | Qualification | Semi-Final | Final | ||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Route 1 | Route 2 | Points | ||||||
Score | Rank | Score | Rank | |||||
Sean Bailey | 37+ | 5 | 40 | 10 | 8.31 | 43 | 34+ | |
Stefano Ghisolfi | 32+ | 26 | TOP | 1 | 11.62 | 46 | 32 | |
Martin Stráník | 35+ | 10 | 39 | 17 | 14.9 | 43 | 32 | |
4 | Sascha Lehmann | 37 | 8 | TOP | 1 | 6.0 | 47+ | 29 |
5 | Victor Baudrand | TOP | 1 | 38 | 21 | 5.61 | 41+ | 28+ |
6 | Marcello Bombardi | 35+ | 10 | 40+ | 9 | 10.39 | 41+ | 26+ |
7 | Luka Potočar | 33+ | 19 | 40 | 10 | 15.91 | 45 | 25+ |
8 | Paul Jenft | 32+ | 26 | TOP | 1 | 11.62 | 45+ | 25 |
62 women competed in the event. [21]
Italy's Laura Rogora topped three out of four routes in the competition, earning her a gold medal. USA's Natalia Grossman placed second while Bulgaria's Aleksandra Totkova placed third. [19] [20]
Rank | Name | Qualification | Semi-Final | Final | ||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Route 1 | Route 2 | Points | ||||||
Score | Rank | Score | Rank | |||||
Laura Rogora | 44+ | 21 | TOP | 1 | 9.81 | TOP | TOP | |
Natalia Grossman | 50 | 2 | TOP | 1 | 3.24 | TOP | 41+ | |
Aleksandra Totkova | 50 | 2 | 48 | 7 | 4.58 | TOP | 38+ | |
4 | Vita Lukan | 49+ | 5 | 41+ | 12 | 8.49 | TOP | 38+ |
5 | Natsuki Tanii | 44+ | 21 | 47 | 8 | 14.83 | TOP | 32+ |
6 | Julia Chanourdie | 49 | 8 | TOP | 1 | 5.77 | TOP | 29+ |
7 | Ashima Shiraishi | 47 | 18 | 40+ | 14 | 15.87 | TOP | 29+ |
8 | Dinara Fakhritdinova | 49 | 8 | TOP | 1 | 5.77 | TOP | 28+ |
68 men competed in the event. [22]
Italy's Stefano Ghisolfi fell high on the head-wall and won the gold medal. Russia's Dmitrii Fakirianov and Czech Republic's Martin Stráník placed second and third respectively. [23] [20]
Rank | Name | Qualification | Semi-Final | Final | ||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Route 1 | Route 2 | Points | ||||||
Score | Rank | Score | Rank | |||||
Stefano Ghisolfi | 32+ | 2 | 32+ | 4 | 3.0 | 42+ | 42+ | |
Dmitrii Fakirianov | 15 | 52 | 33+ | 2 | 11.51 | 40+ | 39+ | |
Martin Stráník | 29+ | 3 | 29 | 8 | 5.66 | 39+ | 37+ | |
4 | Sean Bailey | 29+ | 3 | 27 | 16 | 8.0 | 42+ | 36 |
5 | Sascha Lehmann | 22+ | 16 | 32+ | 4 | 9.25 | 37+ | 35 |
6 | Fedir Samoilov | 29 | 6 | 27+ | 13 | 9.54 | 37 | 35 |
7 | Alberto Ginés López | 22+ | 16 | 33+ | 2 | 6.89 | 37 | 27+ |
8 | Luka Potočar | 33 | 1 | 30+ | 7 | 2.65 | 37 | 22 |
56 women competed in the event. [24]
Czech Republic's Eliška Adamovská claimed her first gold medal. USA's Natalia Grossman placed second while Slovenia's Vita Lukan placed third. [23] [20]
Rank | Name | Qualification | Semi-Final | Final | ||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Route 1 | Route 2 | Points | ||||||
Score | Rank | Score | Rank | |||||
Eliška Adamovská | 30 | 5 | 27+ | 17 | 9.35 | TOP | 36 | |
Natalia Grossman | 34+ | 1 | 36 | 1 | 1.0 | TOP | 35+ | |
Vita Lukan | 12 | 49 | 35+ | 2 | 13.1 | TOP | 29 | |
4 | Ashima Shiraishi | 23+ | 23 | 32+ | 8 | 13.98 | TOP | 27+ |
5 | Ryu Nakagawa | 31+ | 3 | 24 | 37 | 11.53 | 36+ | 27+ |
6 | Lucka Rakovec | 33+ | 2 | 35+ | 2 | 2.65 | TOP | 26+ |
7 | Lana Skusek | 28+ | 7 | 34+ | 6 | 7.55 | 38 | 24+ |
8 | Aleksandra Totkova | 27+ | 14 | 28 | 15 | 14.73 | 41 | 22+ |
61 men competed in the event. [25]
Japan's Masahiro Higuchi won his first World Cup gold medal. Slovenia's Luka Potočar placed second and Germany's Sebastian Halenke placed second and third respectively on count-back. Italy's Stefano Ghisolfi, placing 12th in the competition, was crowned this season overall Lead World Cup champion. [26]
Rank | Name | Qualification | Semi-Final | Final | ||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Route 1 | Route 2 | Points | ||||||
Score | Rank | Score | Rank | |||||
Masahiro Higuchi | 29+ | 14 | 37+ | 8 | 12.96 | 41+ | 37 | |
Luka Potočar | 18+ | 46 | TOP | 1 | 10.95 | 41 | 31+ | |
Sebastian Halenke | 29+ | 14 | 38 | 5 | 9.8 | 40+ | 31+ | |
4 | Domen Škofic | TOP | 1 | TOP | 1 | 3.71 | 29+ | 31+ |
5 | Fedir Samoilov | 25+ | 25 | 37+ | 8 | 16.84 | 37+ | 30+ |
6 | Satone Yoshida | 29+ | 14 | 37+ | 8 | 12.96 | 40+ | 16+ |
7 | Milan Preskar | TOP | 1 | 35 | 19 | 10.49 | 34+ | 15+ |
8 | Ao Yurikusa | TOP | 1 | 38 | 5 | 5.74 | 33+ | 15+ |
45 women competed in the event. [27]
Slovenia's Janja Garnbret, back from the 2020 Tokyo Olympics, claimed the gold medal and by doing so also claimed the overall Lead World Cup title. South Korea's Chaehyun Seo claimed silver while USA's Natalia Grossman claimed bronze. [26]
Rank | Name | Qualification | Semi-Final | Final | ||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Route 1 | Route 2 | Points | ||||||
Score | Rank | Score | Rank | |||||
Janja Garnbret | TOP | 1 | 43+ | 8 | 5.34 | 47+ | 49+ | |
Chaehyun Seo | TOP | 1 | TOP | 1 | 3.0 | 36 | 46 | |
Natalia Grossman | 29+ | 10 | TOP | 1 | 6.0 | 37+ | 41+ | |
4 | Laura Rogora | TOP | 1 | TOP | 1 | 3.0 | 44+ | 39 |
5 | Vita Lukan | 34+ | 6 | 43+ | 8 | 8.15 | 38+ | 39 |
6 | Lucka Rakovec | 29 | 15 | 44 | 7 | 10.42 | 36+ | 34+ |
7 | Dinara Fakhritdinova | 34+ | 6 | TOP | 1 | 4.58 | 35+ | 31+ |
8 | Natsuki Tanii | 25+ | 18 | 36 | 28 | 24.17 | 34+ | 26 |
USA Climbing is the national governing body of the sport of competition climbing in the United States. As a 501(c)3 non-profit, they promote Sport Climbing which comprises three competition disciplines: bouldering, lead climbing, and speed climbing, in elite, youth and collegiate formats.
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