Alexander Megos

Last updated • 8 min readFrom Wikipedia, The Free Encyclopedia

Alexander Megos
2022-08-12 European Championships 2022 - Sport Climbing Men's Lead by Sandro Halank-056.jpg
Megos at the 2022 European Championships
Personal information
NationalityGerman
Born (1993-08-12) 12 August 1993 (age 31)
Erlangen, Germany
OccupationProfessional rock climber
Height173 cm (5 ft 8 in) [1]
Weight57 kg (126 lb) [1]
Climbing career
Type of climber
Highest grade
Known for
First ascents
  • Fight Club (9b, 2016)
  • Perfecto Mundo (9b+, 2018)
  • Bibliographie (9b+, 2020)
  • Ratstaman Vibrations (9b, 2022)
  • The Full Journey (9b, 2022)
Medal record
Men's competition climbing
Representing Flag of Germany.svg  Germany
World Championships
Silver medal icon (S initial).svg 2019 Hachiōji Lead
Bronze medal icon (B initial).svg 2018 Innsbruck Lead
Bronze medal icon (B initial).svg 2023 Bern Lead
World Cup
Gold medal icon (G initial).svg Briancon 2018 Lead
Silver medal icon (S initial).svg Innsbruck 2024 Lead
Silver medal icon (S initial).svg Innsbruck 2023 Lead
Silver medal icon (S initial).svg Villars 2021 Lead
Silver medal icon (S initial).svg Chamonix 2019 Lead
Silver medal icon (S initial).svg Kranj 2017 Lead
Bronze medal icon (B initial).svg Villars 2023 Lead
Bronze medal icon (B initial).svg Briancon 2022 Lead
Bronze medal icon (B initial).svg Villars 2019 Lead
Bronze medal icon (B initial).svg Chamonix 2018 Lead
Updated on 27 June 2024

Alexander "Alex" Megos (born 12 August 1993) is a German rock climber specializing in sport climbing, bouldering and competition climbing. In 2013, he became the first-ever climber to onsight a 9a  (5.14d) graded route. He has made the first free ascent (FFA) of some of the hardest sport climbing routes in the world, including two 9b+  (5.15c) routes (Perfecto Mundo and Bibliographie ), four 9b  (5.15b) routes (Fight Club, Ratstaman Vibrations, Move and The Full Journey), and several boulders with a boulder 8C  (V15) rating.

Contents

Early life

Megos started climbing at the age of six. With his father, he climbed multi-pitch routes up to 300 m at the age of ten. In 2006, Megos began training in the mountainous region of his native Bavaria, known as Franconian Switzerland, and later at the German Alpine Club's national climbing center in Erlangen-Nuremberg. [2] There, he was mentored by Patrick Matros and Ludwig Korb, who continue to train and coach Megos to this day. In 2007, Megos completed his first 8a  (5.13b). Two years later, in 2009, he climbed his first 8c  (5.14b) by completing Drive-by Shooting, and, in 2011, his first 9a  (5.14d) by ascending San Ku Kai.

Climbing career

Competition climbing

Alexander Megos started competition climbing in 2006. He won two youth European Championship titles (2009 and 2010) and was the runner-up in the youth World Champion in 2011. [3] In 2009, he won every single competition in the EYC series. [4] In 2017, he was the runner-up in bouldering at the European Championship and won his first World Cup in the lead climbing discipline in Briançon, France, on 21 July 2018. [5]

In 2017, he won the silver medal for bouldering at both the European Championships in Munich and the IFSC Lead World Cup in Kranj, Slovenia. In 2018, he won a bronze medal in the lead climbing discipline at the IFSC World Cup in Chamonix, France, [6] and, one week later, won the gold medal at the Briancon World Cup. [7] Later in that year, he took the bronze medal at the World Championships in the lead competition. [8] He followed this up with a silver in lead at the 2019 World Championships. By reaching the finals of the combined event at the World Championships, he secured a qualifying spot for Tokyo's 2020 Summer Olympics. [9]

Megos has also climbed in the La Sportiva Legends competitions, where he has placed second and third on numerous occasions, celebrating in a win in 2018. [10] He currently holds the high point of Black Diamond's The Project, which is widely considered one of the world's hardest indoor routes.

Sport climbing

On 24 March 2013, Megos ascended Estado Critico in Siurana, Spain, completing the world's first 9a onsight. In August 2013, Megos climbed The Red Project 9a (35), Australia's first 9a, and Wheelchair (9a+). [11] Due to the boulder's uncommonly long length, Megos assigned the Wheelchair a sport grading. [12]

Alexander Megos is known for speedily ascending difficult climbing routes. From mid-April to mid-June 2014, he completed nine routes, ranging from 9a+  (5.15a) to 8c+  (5.14c), in Franconian Switzerland, including Modified 9a+  (5.15a), one of the most challenging routes in the region. He also managed a redpoint attempt of the famous Action Directe within two hours, setting a record time. [13] In addition, he is the only person to complete an asccent of Biography also known as Realization 9a+  (5.15a) in Ceüse, France in a single day of effort. [14]

In June 2014, Alexander Megos, together with Roger Schäli, completed the first ascent of the 20-pitch route Fly 8c  (5.14b) in Staldeflue, Switzerland, one of the most difficult big-wall climbing routes in the world. [15]

In April 2015, Megos returned to Australia, completing the first ascent of SchweinebaumeIn 9a (35). On 1 October 2015, he climbed the route Supernova in Franconian Switzerland and, by doing so, likely established the first route of grade 11+ (UIAA) (9a + / 9b French) in German-speaking countries. [16]

Megos' ascent of First Round First Minute in December 2015 marked the completion of his first 9b  (5.15b).

On 9 May 2018, he secured the first ascent of the route Perfecto Mundo in Margalef, Spain, a line bolted by Chris Sharma. Megos and Sharma had tried it together several times in the days before his ascent and graded it 9b+  (5.15c).

In August 2020, Megos completed his long-term project Bibliographie in Céüse, grading it 9c  (5.15d), after working on it for 60 days. [17] However, in August 2021, after Stefano Ghisolfi had matched this feat, the route was downgraded to 9b+  (5.15c), which Megos agreed was more fitting. [18]

Bouldering

In May 2020, Megos ascended Upgrade U 8C  (V15), one of the most challenging bouldering problems in his native northern Bavaria. [19] [20]

Notable ascents

Redpointed routes

9b+  (5.15c)

9b  (5.15b)

  • First Round, First Minute (31 December 2015). Third Ascent. First Ascent by Chris Sharma. [25]
  • Fight Club (14 August 2016). First Ascent. [26] Route bolted by Sonnie Trotter.
  • Mejorando Imagen (25 April 2021). Second Ascent. First Ascent by Ramón Julián. Originally graded 9a, upgraded by Megos to 9b. [27]
  • King Capella (November 2021). Second Ascent (after 9 days of effort). First Ascent by Will Bosi. [28]
  • Ratstaman Vibrations (31 July 2022). First Ascent. Route bolted by Chris Sharma. [29]
  • The Full Journey (9 October 2022). First Ascent. Route bolted by Tom Bolger. [30]
  • Sleeping Lion (4 January 2024). Second Ascent (after 8 days of effort). First Ascent by Chris Sharma. Originally graded 9b+ by Sharma, downgraded by Megos to 9b. [31] [32]
  • Move (3 September 2024). Third Ascent. [33] First Ascent by Adam Ondra. Graded 9b/+ by Megos. [34]

9a+/b (5.15a/b)

  • Chan Chan Bastards
  • Supernova - First Ascent. [25]
  • La Capella [35]

9a+  (5.15a)

  • Demencia Senil - First Ascent by Chris Sharma. [36]
  • La Rambla - Megos climbed it on his second try. [37]
  • Biographie - First Ascent by Chris Sharma. Megos climbed it in one day, on his third try. [38]
  • Corona - Third Ascent. [37]
  • Classified - First Ascent. [37]
  • Modified - First Ascent. [39]
  • First Ley - Megos also sent a variation called La Ley Indignata 9a (5.14d), possible first ascent. [25]
  • Thor's Hammer - First Repeat. First Ascent by Adam Ondra. [40]
  • Geocache - First Ascent. Repeated by Adam Ondra. [41]
  • Becoming - First Ascent. [42]
  • Super Crackinette - First Ascent. [43]
  • Jaws 2 - Sent on third try. [44]

9a  (5.14d)

  • Action Directe - Megos sent this route in just two hours. Action Directe was the world's first 9a, and continues to be a benchmark for the grade. [45]
  • La Sensación del Bloque - March 2017 - FA of the first South American 9a in Valle de los Condores, Chile.
  • Dreamcatcher - Fourth Ascent. Climbed in one day, other previous ascents by Chris Sharma, Sean McColl and Ben Harnden took multiple days. [46]
  • Era Vella - Second Try. Subject to much controversy about whether it is 9a(14d) or 8c+(14c). [47]
  • Speed Intégrale - Voralpsee, Switzerland in two days, 2017 [48]
  • Coup de grâce - Val Bavona, Switzerland second go, 2017 [49]
  • The Illusionist - Third Ascent. Climbed on the same day as Move (9b/+). [33] [34]

Other notable ascents

  • Pure Imagination: 8c+ (5.14c). Flash. [50]
  • Fly: 8c (5.14b). Megos made the first free ascent of this twenty pitch big wall in Switzerland. [38]
  • Hubble: 8c+ (5.14c) - Megos became the first to climb both Action Directe and Hubble by sending Hubble in June 2016. [51]

Onsighted routes

9a  (5.14d)

  • Estado Critico - World's first 9a onsight. [50]
  • TCT [52]

8c+  (5.14c)

  • Victimes del Passat [36]

Boulder problems

8C / 8C+  

  • Wheelchair - First Ascent. Although Megos suggested a 9a+ sport climbing grade because of its length, this Wheel of Life variation is not a sport climb. It is a long boulder problem, harder than Wheel of Life, and possibly worth an 8C+ (V16) rating. [45] [53]

8C  (V15)

  • The Story of Two Worlds - First Ascended by Dave Graham in 2005, repeated by Megos in December 2020. [54]
  • Dreamtime - Ascended by Megos on 18 December 2020. [55]
  • Upgrade U - First Ascent May 2020, rated 8C and accepted as the hardest boulder problem in the Frankenjura. [56]
  • Half Life - Second ascent April 2020, Frankenjura, Megos confirmed as 8C
  • The Finnish Line - Summer 2017 - Second ascent of hard testpiece established by Nalle Hukkataival in Rocklands, South Africa. The grade is still controversial, but consensus seems to grow on 8C  (V15). [57]
  • Wheel of Life: - First Ascent by Dai Koyamada. Megos suggested a sport climbing grade of 9a (5.14d), but this is not a sport climb. It is a long boulder problem, rated 8C. [53]
  • Lucid Dreaming - Third Ascent of Paul Robinson's boulder, originally graded 8C+ (V16). [25]

8B+  (V14)

  • Never Ending Story [38]
  • Bad Boys for Life - First Ascent. [38]
  • Montecore: [58]
  • Riot Act [58]
  • Double Demerit - First Repeat. [59]
  • Sky [60]
  • Trainspotting - First Ascent. [61]

Rankings

Climbing World Cup

Discipline20092010201120122013201420152016201720182019202120222023
Lead553735-----226710142
Bouldering---73----28551992233
Speed--------------
Combined--------38

[62]

Climbing World Championships

Megos in the 2018 World Championships lead finals Climbing World Championships 2018 Lead Final Megos 06.jpg
Megos in the 2018 World Championships lead finals

Youth [63]

Discipline2009
Youth A
2010
Youth A
Lead82

Adult [63]

Discipline 2018 2019 2023
Lead323
Bouldering252517
Speed10975-
Combined1113

Climbing European Championships

Discipline20102017
Lead23-
Bouldering-2
Speed--

[63]

Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup

Lead

SeasonGoldSilverBronzeTotal
201711
2018112
2019112
202111
202211
2023112
202411
Total15410

[63]

Personal life

Megos has been vegan since the beginning of 2021. [64]

Megos and his family have provided housing, via their properties in Erlangen, to Ukrainian refugees, saying the refugees are "friends and family". He said that athletes feel too far from the Ukrainian War to believe they can be of any help, and wishes that they would use their platform to help people. [65]

See also

Related Research Articles

<i>Action Directe</i> (climb) Sport climbing route in Germany

Action Directe is a short 15-metre (49 ft) overhanging sport climb at the limestone Waldkopf crag in Frankenjura, Germany. When it was first climbed by German climber Wolfgang Güllich in 1991, it became the first climb in the world to have a consensus 9a (5.14d) grade. Action Directe is considered an important route in rock climbing history, and is one of the most attempted climbs at its grade, where it is considered the "benchmark" for the level of 9a. The plyometric training techniques and customized equipment that Güllich used to prepare for the unique physical demands of Action Directe also revolutionized climbing and what could be achieved.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Chris Sharma</span> American rock climber

Chris Omprakash Sharma is an American rock climber who is considered one of the greatest and most influential climbers in the history of the sport. He dominated sport climbing for the decade after his 2001 ascent of Realization/Biographie, the world's first-ever redpoint of a consensus 9a+ (5.15a) graded route, and ushered in what was called a "technical evolution" in the sport. Sharma carried the mantle of "world's strongest sport climber" from Wolfgang Güllich, and passed it to Adam Ondra.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Realization (climb)</span> Sport climbing route in France

Realization, also called Biographie, is a circa 35-metre (115 ft) sport climbing route on an overhanging limestone cliff on the southern face of Céüse mountain, near Gap and Sigoyer, in France. After it was first climbed in 2001 by American climber Chris Sharma, it became the first rock climb in the world to have a consensus grade of 9a+ (5.15a). It is considered an historic and important route in rock climbing, and one of the most attempted climbs at its grade.

Steve McClure is a British rock climber and climbing author, who is widely regarded as Britain's leading and most important sport climber for a period that extends for over two decades, starting from the late 1990s. In 2017, he created Rainman, Britain's first-ever 9b (5.15b) sport route, and by that stage was responsible for developing the majority of routes graded 9a (5.14d) and above in Britain. Although mainly known for sport climbing, McClure has also been one of the most successful British traditional climbers, and British onsight climbers.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Ramón Julián</span> Spanish rock climber

Ramón Julián Puigblanque is a professional Spanish rock climber specializing in competition lead climbing and sport climbing. He won two World Championships, in 2007 and 2011, three European Championships, in 2004 2010 and 2015, and one Lead Climbing World Cup in 2010. From 2001 to 2016, he participated in 16 seasons of the World Cup, winning 21 World Cup stages. He has also redpointed several sport routes above 9a (5.14d), and made the first free ascent of La Rambla.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">History of rock climbing</span> Key chronological milestones

In the history of rock climbing, the three main sub-disciplines – bouldering, single-pitch climbing, and big wall climbing – can trace their origins to late 19th-century Europe. Bouldering started in Fontainebleau, and was advanced by Pierre Allain in the 1930s, and John Gill in the 1950s. Big wall climbing, mostly free climbing but with some sections of aid pitons, started in the Dolomites, and was spread across the Alps in the 1930s by climbers such as Emilio Comici and Riccardo Cassin, and in the 1950s by Walter Bonatti, before reaching Yosemite where it was led in the 1950s to 1970s by climbers such as Royal Robbins. Single-pitch climbing started pre-1900 in both the Lake District and in Saxony, and by the late-1970s had spread widely with climbers such as Ron Fawcett (Britain), Bernd Arnold (Germany), Patrick Berhault (France), Ron Kauk and John Bachar (USA).

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Adam Ondra</span> Czech climber (born 1993)

Adam Ondra is a Czech professional rock climber, specializing in lead climbing, bouldering, and competition climbing. In 2013, Rock & Ice described Ondra as a prodigy and the leading climber of his generation. Ondra is the only male athlete to have won World Championship titles in both disciplines in the same year (2014) and is one of the two male athletes to have won the World Cup series in both disciplines.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">The Wheel of Life</span> Bouldering route in Australia

The Wheel of Life is a 21-metre (69 ft) long sandstone bouldering route on the roof of the Hollow Mountain Cave in the Grampians of Australia. When first climbed, it was graded at 8C+ (V16), one of the world's first-ever boulder routes at that grade. With repeats, it was graded at 8C (V15), and some consider it to really be a sport climbing traverse route, at the sport grade of 9a (5.14d).

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Ashima Shiraishi</span> American rock climber (born 2001)

Ashima Shiraishi is an American rock climber. Shiraishi started climbing at the age of six at Rat Rock in Central Park, joining her father. Only a few years later, she quickly established herself as one of the top boulderers and sport climbers in the world. Her numerous accomplishments include first-place finishes in international competitions, and multiple first female and youngest ascents. Shiraishi is featured in several short documentary-style films, and is the subject of the documentary short "Return to the Red" (2012).

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Ethan Pringle</span> American rock climber (born 1986)

Ethan Pringle is an American rock climber with notable ascents in sport climbing, in traditional climbing, and in bouldering. He has also been active in competition climbing, winning the American national competition lead climbing championships in both youth and adult formats, and silver at the World Youth Championships.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Jakob Schubert</span> Austrian rock climber

Jakob Schubert is an Austrian professional rock climber, specializing in competition climbing, sport climbing, and bouldering. He is a four-time World Champion and three-time World Cup winner in lead climbing. He is a two-time Olympic bronze medalist in the combined event.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Stefano Ghisolfi</span> Italian rock climber (born 1993)

Stefano Ghisolfi is an Italian professional rock climber, who specializes in competition climbing, sport climbing, and bouldering. In competition climbing, he completes in competition lead climbing, competition bouldering, and competition speed climbing, with lead being his strongest discipline. As a sport climber, he has redpointed sport climbing routes of grade 9b+ (5.15c), onsighted routes of 8c (5.14b), and solved boulder problems at grade 8B+ (V14). In December 2018, after climbing Perfecto Mundo, he became the fourth climber in history to redpoint a 9b+ (5.15c) route.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Jan Hojer</span> German rock climber (born 1992)

Jan Hojer is a German professional rock climber specializing in sport climbing, bouldering, and competition climbing. He is known for winning one World Cup and two European Championships in competition bouldering. In May 2010, he climbed Action Directe, one of the most difficult sport climbing routes in the world. From 2013 to 2015, he sent several 8C (V15) boulder problems.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Jernej Kruder</span> Slovenian rock climber

Jernej Kruder is a Slovenian rock climber who specializes in competition climbing, bouldering and sport climbing. In 2018, he won the IFSC Climbing World Cup in competition bouldering.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Laura Rogora</span> Italian rock climber

Laura Rogora is an Italian rock climber who specializes in sport climbing and in competition climbing. In 2021, she became the third-ever female climber in history to redpoint a 9b (5.15b)-graded sport climbing route, with her ascent of Erebor in Italy.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Sean Bailey (climber)</span> American rock climber (born 1996)

Sean Bailey is an American professional rock climber, who specializes in competition climbing, sport climbing, and bouldering. He has represented the United States in the IFSC Climbing World Cup in lead climbing, and has two podium finishes in bouldering at individual legs of the World Cup, including a win at the Salt Lake City leg of the 2021 World Cup.1 and three in lead climbing, including two gold medals, at the Villars leg, and Chamonix leg, in July 2021.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Matty Hong</span> American rock climber (born 1991)

Matthew Jacob Hong is an American rock climber, filmmaker and photographer. In 2018, he became the fourth American to climb a route graded at 5.15b (9b). As a filmmaker, he directed the 2017 film Break on Through, which documented Margo Hayes completing the first-ever female ascent of a 9a+ (5.15a) graded sport climbing route, and is featured on the Reel Rock Film Tour.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Hubble (climb)</span> Sport climbing route in England

Hubble is a short 10-metre (33 ft) bolted sport climb at the limestone crag of Raven Tor in Millers Dale, in the Peak District in Derbyshire, England. When Hubble was first redpointed by English climber Ben Moon on 14 June 1990, it became the first-ever climb in the world to have a consensus climbing grade of 8c+ (5.14c); and the highest grade in the English system at E9 7b.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">William Bosi</span> Scottish rock climber (born 1998)

William (Will) Bosi is a British professional rock climber specializing in sport climbing, bouldering and competition climbing. Bosi is only the second British sport climber in history to redpoint a 9b (5.15b) graded sport climbing route, and by 2023, was one of only a small group of climbers in the world to have completed a V17 (9A) boulder. In 2025, he made a redpoint ascent of Excalibur, graded 9b+; making him the first British climber to climb at this grade.

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