Personal information | |||||||||||||||
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Born | Turin, Italy | February 18, 1993||||||||||||||
Occupation | Professional rock climber | ||||||||||||||
Height | 170 cm (5 ft 7 in) | ||||||||||||||
Weight | 58 kg (128 lb) | ||||||||||||||
Climbing career | |||||||||||||||
Type of climber | |||||||||||||||
Ape index | +4 cm (2 in) | ||||||||||||||
Highest grade | |||||||||||||||
Known for |
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First ascents |
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Medal record
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Updated on December 7, 2018. |
Stefano Ghisolfi (born February 18, 1993) is an Italian professional rock climber, who specializes in competition climbing, sport climbing, and bouldering. In competition climbing, he completes in competition lead climbing, competition bouldering, and competition speed climbing, with lead being his strongest discipline. As a sport climber, he has redpointed sport climbing routes of grade 9b+ (5.15c), [1] onsighted routes of 8c (5.14b), [2] and solved boulder problems at grade 8B+ (V14). [3] In December 2018, after climbing Perfecto Mundo, he became the fourth climber in history to redpoint a 9b+ (5.15c) route. [4]
In 2007, Ghisolfi participated in his first international competition: the IFSC European Youth Cup.
Both in 2010 and 2011, he won the bronze medal in Lead climbing at the IFSC World Youth Championships. [5] In the same years, he also participated in the IFSC World Championships as a senior competitor, for all disciplines (lead, bouldering, and speed) and placed tenth in the overall ranking.
On October 13, 2012, he first got on the podium in the World Cup, obtaining a bronze medal in Xining, China. He obtained gold medals in the World Cup stages at Wujiang (China), in 2014, Xiamen (China), in 2016, and then again at Wujiang (China), in 2017.
On November 2, 2015, he made the first free ascent (FFA) of Lapsus, in Andonno (Italy), a 70-hold sport climbing route for which he proposed a grade of 9b (5.15b). [6]
On December 7, 2018, after climbing the 9b+ (5.15c) sport route Perfecto Mundo (Margalef, ESP), he became the fourth climber in history to redpoint a route at that grade, after Adam Ondra, Chris Sharma, and Alex Megos. [4]
On September 2, 2020, he made the second ascent of Change 9b+ (5.15c), in Flatanger, Norway; the first-ever 9b+ route in history, established by Adam Ondra in 2012. [7]
On August 24, 2021, he made the second ascent of Bibliographie 9b+ (5.15c), in Céüse, France. Originally graded with a proposed 9c (5.15d) rating, the route was first established by Alex Megos. Ghisolfi then downgraded it to 9b+. [8]
On February 2, 2023, made the FFA of Excalibur, in Arco, in Italy, for which he proposed a grade of 9b+ (5.15c). [9]
Discipline | 2009 | 2010 | 2011 | 2012 | 2013 | 2014 | 2015 | 2016 | 2017 | 2018 | 2019 | 2021 |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Lead | 21 | 24 | 10 | 10 | 9 | 9 | 4 | 2 | 2 | 5 | 1 | |
Bouldering | 65 | 83 | 30 | 41 | ||||||||
Speed | 17 | 30 | 38 | |||||||||
Combined | 10 | 10 | 4 | 9 |
Discipline | 2008 Youth B | 2009 Youth A | 2010 Youth A | 2011 Juniors | 2012 Juniors |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Lead | 5 | 15 | 3 | 3 | 13 |
Speed | 5 | 6 | 5 | - | 17 |
Adult [5]
Discipline | 2011 | 2012 | 2014 | 2016 | 2018 |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Lead | 27 | 16 | 10 | 7 | 22 |
Bouldering | 25 | 16 | |||
Speed | 30 | 33 |
Youth [5]
Discipline | 2012 Juniors |
---|---|
Lead | 3 |
Adult [5]
Discipline | 2010 | 2013 | 2015 | 2017 |
---|---|---|---|---|
Lead | 37 | 16 | 7 | 10 |
Bouldering | 37 | 35 | 35 | - |
Speed | 18 | 32 | 26 | - |
Season | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
---|---|---|---|---|
2012 | 1 | 1 | ||
2013 | 0 | |||
2014 | 1 | 1 | ||
2015 | 0 | |||
2016 | 1 | 1 | 2 | |
2017 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 3 |
2018 | 2 | 2 | 4 | |
2019 | 1 | 1 | ||
2020 | 0 | |||
2021 | 1 | 2 | 3 | |
Total | 6 | 6 | 3 | 15 |
Season | Category | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
2011 | Juniors | 1 | 3 | 4 | |
2012 | Juniors | 1 | 1 | ||
Total | 1 | 1 | 3 | 5 |
Season | Category | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
2011 | Juniors | 2 | 2 | ||
Total | 0 | 0 | 2 | 2 |
9b+ (5.15c):
9b (5.15b):
9a+ (5.15a):
9a (5.14d):
8c (5.14b):
8b+ (5.14a):
Ghisolfi climbed five 8B (V13) and two 8B+ (V14) boulder problems. [3]
He won the 2013, 2014, 2015 and 2016 editions of Melloblocco. [24]
Chris Omprakash Sharma is an American rock climber who is considered one of the greatest and most influential climbers in the history of the sport. He dominated sport climbing for the decade after his 2001 ascent of Realization/Biographie, the world's first-ever redpoint of a consensus 9a+ (5.15a) graded route, and ushered in what was called a "technical evolution" in the sport. Sharma carried the mantle of "world's strongest sport climber" from Wolfgang Gullich, and passed it to Adam Ondra.
Realization, also called Biographie, is a circa 35-metre (115 ft) sport climbing route on a limestone cliff on the southern face of Céüse mountain, near Gap and Sigoyer, in France. After it was first climbed in 2001 by American climber Chris Sharma, it became the first rock climb in the world to have a consensus grade of 9a+ (5.15a). It is considered an historic and important route in rock climbing, and one of the most attempted climbs at its grade.
Josune Bereziartu, also known as Josune Bereciartu Urruzola, is a Basque rock climber. For a decade starting in the late 1990s, she was considered the strongest female sport climber in the world and is regarded as one of the most important female rock climbers in history.
Ramón Julián Puigblanque is a professional Spanish rock climber specializing in competition lead climbing and sport climbing. He won two World Championships, in 2007 and 2011, three European Championships, in 2004 2010 and 2015, and one Lead Climbing World Cup in 2010. From 2001 to 2016, he participated in 16 seasons of the World Cup, winning 21 World Cup stages. He has also redpointed several sport routes above 9a (5.14d), and made the first free ascent of La Rambla.
(not to be confused with Tomas Mrazek, the boxer with an impressive 10-75 record).
Adam Ondra is a Czech professional rock climber, specializing in lead climbing, bouldering, and competition climbing. In 2013, Rock & Ice described Ondra as a prodigy and the leading climber of his generation. Ondra is the only male athlete to have won World Championship titles in both disciplines in the same year (2014) and is also the only male athlete to have won the World Cup series in both disciplines.
La Rambla is a 41-metre (135 ft) sport climb at the limestone El Pati crag in Siurana, Catalonia in Spain. Originally bolted and climbed by Alexander Huber in 1994 as a 35-metre (115 ft) route, the bolting was later extended by Dani Andrada to a 41-metre (135 ft) route, which was eventually climbed by Ramón Julián Puigblanque in 2003. While there has been debate about La Rambla's grade, there is now consensus that it meets the 9a+ (5.15a) threshold. It is an important and historic route in climbing, and is part of the coveted "9a+ trilogy" with Realization and Papichulo.
Angela "Angy" Eiter is an Austrian professional rock climber who specialises in competition climbing and sport climbing. In competition lead climbing, she won three IFSC World Cups in a row (2004–2006), and four IFSC World Championships. In 2011, she achieved her 25th win in World Cup and her 42nd podium. She is also one of the strongest sport climbers in the world, and in 2017, became the first-ever female in history to climb a 9b (5.15b) route, La Planta de Shiva. In 2020, she became the first-ever female in history to complete the first free ascent (FFA) of a 9b (5.15b) route, Madame Ching.
Alexander Megos is a German rock climber specializing in sport climbing, bouldering and competition climbing. In 2013, he became the first-ever climber to onsight a 9a (5.14d) graded route. He has made the first free ascent (FFA) of some of the hardest sport climbing routes in the world, including two 9b+ (5.15c) routes, three 9b (5.15b) routes, and several boulders with a boulder 8C (V15) rating.
Jakob Schubert is an Austrian professional rock climber, specializing in competition climbing, sport climbing, and bouldering. He was four times World Champion and three times World Cup winner in lead climbing. In August 2021, he won bronze at the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo. As of the end of 2022, Schubert had won the most men's IFSC gold medals of any male competition climber in history. In addition to competition climbing, Schubert is one of only a handful of climbers in the world to have redpointed 9c (5.15d) routes.
Sachi Amma is a Japanese professional rock climber and sport climber. He won the IFSC Climbing World Cup twice, in 2012 and 2013.
Kilian Fischhuber is a professional Austrian rock climber who specializes in bouldering, sport climbing and competition climbing, where competes in bouldering and lead climbing. From 2005 to 2011, he won five Bouldering World Cups. No other male climber was ever able to win it more than three times, or win it three times in a row. Due to his outstanding career, he was awarded the La Sportiva Competition Award in 2009, together with Chris Sharma.
Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza, best known as Patxi Usobiaga, is a Spanish professional rock climber, sports climber and boulderer. He is known for winning two Lead Climbing World Cups in a row, and for being the first-ever climber in history to onsight an 8c+ (5.14c) route.
Silence, is a 45-metre (148 ft) overhanging sport climbing route in the granite Hanshelleren Cave, in Flatanger, Norway. When Czech climber Adam Ondra made the first free ascent on 3 September 2017, it became the first rock climb in the world to have a proposed climbing grade of 9c (5.15d), and it is an important route in rock climbing history. To complete the route, Ondra undertook specialist physical and mental training to overcome its severely overhanging terrain.
Laura Rogora is an Italian rock climber who specializes in sport climbing and in competition climbing. In 2021, she became the third-ever female climber in history to redpoint a 9b (5.15b)-graded sport climbing route, with her ascent of Erebor in Italy.
Bibliographie is a circa 35-metre (115 ft) sport climbing route on a limestone cliff on the southern face of Céüse mountain, near Gap and Sigoyer, in France. The route was bolted in 2009 by Ethan Pringle, and was first ascended by Alexander Megos on 5 August 2020. Megos initially graded the route as 9c (5.15d), the highest difficulty at that time. The route was repeated on 24 August 2021 by Stefano Ghisolfi, who graded the route as 9b+ (5.15c), which has become the consensus grade for Bibliographie, making it only the fifth-ever climb in history at a grade of 9b+.
Sébastien Bouin, nicknamed Seb Bouin, is a French rock climber born in Draguignan. By 2022, Bouin is regarded as one of the strongest sport climbers in the world, being only the second-ever climber to establish a route graded 9c (5.15d), with DNA in 2022, and one of only a handful of climbers to create a new route at the grade of 9b+ (5.15c). Bouin is also regarded for his documentary series on the history of extreme sport climbing in France.
William (Will) Bosi is a Scottish professional rock climber specializing in sport climbing, bouldering and competition climbing. Bosi is only the second British sport climber in history to redpoint a 9b (5.15b) graded sport climbing route, and by 2023, was one of only a small group of climbers in the world to have completed a V17 (9A) boulder.
Jonathan Siegrist is an American rock climber who is regarded as one of the world's most prolific extreme sport climbers, and who has redpointed, and made numerous first free ascents, of a large number of sport climbing routes at and above the grade of 9a (5.14d). Siegrist's breadth of experience at the world's most extreme sport climbing grades, means that he is often looked to for guidance regarding the grading of extreme sport routes in America. While principally known as a sport climber, he has also repeated some of the world's hardest traditional climbing routes.
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