2020 IFSC Climbing World Cup | |
---|---|
Organiser | IFSC |
Edition | 32nd |
Event | Lead |
Location | Briançon, France |
Dates | 20–22 August 2020 |
The 2020 IFSC Climbing World Cup was the 32nd edition of the World Cup held by the International Federation of Sport Climbing. It was scheduled to be held in 12 locations across three climbing disciplines, bouldering, lead and speed, due to the COVID-19 pandemic concerns, only one event was held, the Lead World Cup at Briançon in August, while all other World Cups were canceled.
The 2020 IFSC Climbing World Cup was initially scheduled to be held in 12 locations, with six events each for the three climbing disciplines, bouldering, lead and speed, starting on 3 April and concluding on 11 October, with a break in August for the 2020 Summer Olympic Games. [1]
No. | Location | Date | Discipline | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Boulder | Lead | Speed | |||
1 | Meiringen | 3–4 April | X | ||
2 | Wujiang | 18–19 April | X | ||
3 | Chongqing | 22 April | X | ||
4 | Seoul | 8–10 May | X | X | |
5 | Munich | 23–24 May | X | ||
6 | Salt Lake City | 13–15 June | X | X | |
7 | Innsbruck | 23–27 June | X | X | |
8 | Villars | 2–4 July | X | X | |
9 | Chamonix | 11–13 July | X | X | |
10 | Briançon | 18–19 July | X | ||
2020 Summer Olympics — August 4–7 | |||||
11 | Ljubljana | 25–26 September | X | ||
12 | Xiamen | 9–11 October | X | X | |
Following cancellations of events due to the COVID-19 pandemic, the IFSC announced a revised schedule of events. The modified schedule reduced the number of events to six, starting with a lead competition Briançon, France in August and ending with a speed and boulder competition in Xiamen, China in December. [2] The IFSC further announced that it would not award official champions for the 2020 season.
Adam Ondra and Laura Rogora won the gold at Briançon for the men and women, respectively. Alex Megos, who finished fifth in the men's category, wrote a social media post criticised holding the event in the face of travel restrictions, meaning only European athletes could attend, and what he described as inconsistent masking and social distancing requirements. [3]
However, three of the events scheduled in China were canceled in July after the Government of China ordered all international sporting events to be halted for the remainder of the year. [4] In September 2020, following the Lead World Cup in Briançon in August, the IFSC announced the cancellation of the two remaining events, the Speed and Bouldering World Cups in Seoul, South Korea and Salt Lake City, United States, [5] making Briançon World Cup the only world climbing event of the 2020 season.
No. | Location | Date | D | G | Gold | Silver | Bronze | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Briançon | 21–22 August | L | M | Adam Ondra | Top | Domen Škofic | 41 | Jakob Schubert | 38+ |
W | Laura Rogora | Top | Janja Garnbret | Top | Fanny Gibert | 42 | ||||
2 | Salt Lake City | 11–13 September | S | Canceled | ||||||
B | ||||||||||
3 | Seoul | 7–11 October | S | |||||||
B | ||||||||||
L | ||||||||||
4 | Chongqing | 23–25 October | S | |||||||
B | ||||||||||
5 | Wujiang | 30 October–1 November | S | |||||||
B | ||||||||||
6 | Xiamen | 4–6 December | S | |||||||
L | ||||||||||
Rank | Name | Score [6] |
---|---|---|
1 | Laura Rogora | TOP |
2 | Janja Garnbret | TOP |
3 | Fanny Gibert | 42 |
4 | Jessica Pilz | 41+ |
5 | Vita Lukan | 39+ |
6 | Tjasa Kalan | 39+ |
7 | Nina Arthaud | 34+ |
8 | Giorgia Tesio | 30+ |
9 | Lucija Tarkus | 24+ |
Rank | Name | Score [7] |
---|---|---|
1 | Adam Ondra | TOP |
2 | Domen Škofic | 41 |
3 | Jakob Schubert | 38+ |
4 | Luka Potočar | 30 |
5 | Alex Megos | 27 |
6 | Mathias Posch | 26 |
7 | Mejdi Schalck | 25+ |
8 | Nao Monchois | 25+ |
Rank | Nation | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Czech Republic (CZE) | 1 | 0 | 0 | 1 |
Italy (ITA) | 1 | 0 | 0 | 1 | |
3 | Slovenia (SLO) | 0 | 2 | 0 | 2 |
4 | Austria (AUT) | 0 | 0 | 1 | 1 |
France (FRA) | 0 | 0 | 1 | 1 | |
Totals (5 entries) | 2 | 2 | 2 | 6 |
Adam Ondra is a Czech professional rock climber, specializing in lead climbing, bouldering, and competition climbing. In 2013, Rock & Ice described Ondra as a prodigy and the leading climber of his generation. Ondra is the only male athlete to have won World Championship titles in both disciplines in the same year (2014) and is one of the two male athletes to have won the World Cup series in both disciplines.
The International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) is the international governing body for the sport of competition climbing, which consists of the disciplines lead climbing, bouldering, and speed climbing.
Mina Markovič is a professional rock climber who specialized in competition climbing, from which she is now retired. She competed in the World Cup and World Championships in competition lead climbing, competition bouldering, and competition speed climbing, obtaining her best results in lead. She also climbs on outdoor sport climbing routes where she has redpointed to 9a (5.14d).
Alexander Megos is a German rock climber specializing in sport climbing, bouldering and competition climbing. In 2013, he became the first-ever climber to onsight a 9a (5.14d) graded route. He has made the first free ascent (FFA) of some of the hardest sport climbing routes in the world, including two 9b+ (5.15c) routes, four 9b (5.15b) routes, and several boulders with a boulder 8C (V15) rating.
Competition climbing made its Olympic debut at the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo, Japan. Two events were held, one each for men and women. The format controversially consisted of one combined event with three disciplines: lead climbing, speed climbing and bouldering. The medals were determined based on best performance across all three disciplines. This format was previously tested at the 2018 Summer Youth Olympics. The Olympic code for sports climbing is CLB.
Jakob Schubert is an Austrian professional rock climber, specializing in competition climbing, sport climbing, and bouldering. He is a four-time World Champion and three-time World Cup winner in lead climbing. He is a two-time Olympic bronze medalist in the combined event.
Stefano Ghisolfi is an Italian professional rock climber, who specializes in competition climbing, sport climbing, and bouldering. In competition climbing, he completes in competition lead climbing, competition bouldering, and competition speed climbing, with lead being his strongest discipline. As a sport climber, he has redpointed sport climbing routes of grade 9b+ (5.15c), onsighted routes of 8c (5.14b), and solved boulder problems at grade 8B+ (V14). In December 2018, after climbing Perfecto Mundo, he became the fourth climber in history to redpoint a 9b+ (5.15c) route.
Miho Nonaka is a Japanese competition climber who specializes in competition bouldering. She is an Olympic silver medalist in sport climbing.
There were 40 quota spots available for sport climbing at the 2020 Summer Olympics. Each National Olympic Committee (NOC) could obtain a maximum of 2 spots in each event. Each event had 20 competitors qualify: 18 from qualifying, 1 from the host (Japan), and 1 from Tripartite Commission invitations.
The 2018 IFSC Climbing World Championships, the 15th edition, were held in Innsbruck, Austria from 6 to 16 September 2018. The championships consisted of lead, speed, bouldering, paraclimbing, and combined events.
The 2010 IFSC Climbing World Cup was held in 15 locations. Bouldering competitions were held in 7 locations, lead in 6 locations, and speed in 7 locations. The season began on 30 April in Trento, Italy and concluded on 14 November in Kranj, Slovenia.
The 2019 IFSC Climbing World Cup was held in 12 locations. Bouldering, lead and speed competitions were each held in 6 locations. The season began on 5 April in Meiringen, Switzerland with the first bouldering competition in the season, and concluded on 27 October in Inzai, Japan, with the last lead climbing competition in the season.
The 2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships, the 16th edition, were held in Hachioji, Japan from 11 to 21 August 2019. The championships consisted of lead, speed, bouldering, and combined events. The paraclimbing event was held separately from 16 to 17 July in Briançon, France. The combined event also served as an Olympic qualifying event for the 2020 Summer Olympics.
The 2021 IFSC Climbing World Cup was the 33rd edition of the international sport climbing competition series, held in seven locations. There are 11 events: four bouldering, five lead, and two speed events. The season began on 16 April in Meiringen, Switzerland with the first bouldering competition in the season, and concluded on 4 September in Kranj, Slovenia. The International Federation of Sport Climbing had initially scheduled 18 events concluding on 31 October, but COVID-19 travel restrictions resulted in the cancellation of events in Xiamen and Wujiang in China, Jakarta in Indonesia and Seoul in South Korea.
The 2021 season of the IFSC Climbing World Cup was the 22nd season of the competition. Bouldering competitions will be held at six stops of the IFSC Climbing World Cup. The bouldering season began on April 16 at the World Cup in Meiringen, and concluded on 26 June with the World Cup in Innsbruck. The International Federation of Sport Climbing had initially scheduled six bouldering events concluding on 24 October, but COVID-19 travel restrictions resulted in the cancellation of events in Wujiang in China and Seoul in South Korea.
Competition lead climbing at the 2019 IFSC Climbing World Cup was held over six stages at six different locations, from 4 July to 27 October 2019. The top three in each competition received medals, and at the end of the season, the overall winners were awarded trophies. The overall winners were determined based upon points, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event. Adam Ondra won the men's seasonal title, Chaehyun Seo won the women's seasonal title, and Japan won the national team title.
Competition lead climbing at the 2021 IFSC Climbing World Cup was held at five locations, from 23 June to 4 September 2021. The International Federation of Sport Climbing had initially scheduled six competition-lead climbing events concluding on 17 October, but COVID-19 travel restrictions resulted in the cancellation of the event in Xiamen, China.
Speed climbing competitions at the 2021 IFSC Climbing World Cup are being held at two locations, from 28 May to 3 July 2021. The International Federation of Sport Climbing had originally scheduled six speed climbing events concluding on 31 October, but COVID-19 travel restrictions resulted in the cancellation of events in Xiamen and Wujiang in China, Jakarta in Indonesia and Seoul in South Korea.
The 2022 IFSC Climbing World Cup is the 34th edition of the international sport climbing competition series organised by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC), held in 12 locations. There are 21 events: six bouldering, seven lead, seven speed, and one bouldering & lead combined events. The series began on 8 April in Meiringen, Switzerland with the first bouldering competitions of the season, and concluded on 22 October in Morioka-Iwate, Japan, which introduced the Boulder & Lead combined format that will be used at the 2024 Summer Olympics in Paris.
The 2024 IFSC Climbing World Cup is the 36th edition of the international competition climbing series organised by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC), held in 9 locations. There are 16 events per gender: five competition bouldering, six competition lead climbing, and five competition speed climbing events. The series begins on 8 April in Keqiao, Shaoxing, China, with the first bouldering World Cup of the season, and will conclude on 8 October in Seoul with bouldering, lead, and speed.
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