Oriane Bertone

Last updated
Oriane Bertone
Oriane Bertone.jpg
Oriane Bertone, Giravuelta
Personal information
NationalityFrench
Born (2005-03-10) March 10, 2005 (age 18)
Height164 cm (5 ft 4⅛ in)
Climbing career
Type of climber
Highest grade
Known forYoungest person to solve a V14  (8B+) boulder problem
Medal record
Women's competition climbing
Representing Flag of France.svg  France
World Championships
Silver medal icon (S initial).svg 2023 Bern Bouldering
European Championships
Bronze medal icon (B initial).svg 2022 Munich Bouldering

Oriane Bertone (born March 10, 2005 in Nice) is a French rock climber, who specializes in competition climbing, but is also noted for her sport climbing and her bouldering.

Contents

Climbing career

Rock climbing

In 2018, when she was 12 years old, Bertone became the youngest climber to send a V14  (8B+) graded boulder problem when she solved Golden Shadow in Rocklands (South Africa). [1] In 2020, aged 14, she redpointed the sport climbing route, Panonoramix et les cyclopes, in Saint Léger at grade 8c+  (5.14c).

Competition climbing

In 2019, she started competing in international youth competition climbing events where she won multiple gold medals in both competition lead climbing and competition bouldering. In April 2021, Bertone made her senior International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) competition debut at age 16 at the Boulder World Cup in Meiringen, where she advanced to the final and placed second. [2] Bertone qualified for the 2024 Paris Olympics by placing first in the European Olympic Qualifier. [3]

Rankings [4]

European youth championship

Discipline2019

Youth B

Boulder1
Lead1

Youth world championships

Discipline2019

Youth B

Boulder1
Lead1

European championships

Discipline2022
Boulder3

IFSC World Cup

Podiums

SeasonFirstSecondThirdTotal
202122
202211
2023123
Total1506

Notable ascents

Boulder problems

8C  (V15):

  • Satan I Helvete - Bas, Fontainebleau (France) - 2020 [5]

8B+  (V14):

8B  (V13):

  • Psychopad - Réunion - 2017 [7]
  • Le Spartiate direct assis - Réunion - 2018 [8]
  • Fragile Steps - RockLands (South Africa) - 2017 [9]
  • Trafic - Fontainebleau - 2018
  • The master Key - Rocklands (South Africa) - 2019
  • Bio Affinity - Rocklands (South Africa) - 2019
  • Ray of light - Rocklands (South Africa) - 2020
  • Leopard cave extended - Rocklands (South Africa) - 2020
  • Agamemnon - Rocklands (South Africa) - 2020
  • Fata I Helvete - Fontainebleau - 2020

Redpointed routes

8c+  (5.14c):

8c  (5.14b):

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References

  1. 1 2 "12-year-old Oriane Bertone boulders 8B+". PlanetMountain.com. Retrieved 2019-09-29.
  2. "Gold for Janja Garnbret and Adam Ondra at Meiringen Boulder World Cup". Gripped. 17 April 2021.
  3. "OLYMPIC TICKETS TO PARIS 2024 AWARDED TO ORIANE BERTONE AND TOBY ROBERTS". October 29, 2023. Retrieved October 29, 2023.
  4. "Profile and ranking of Oriane Bertone". www.ifsc-climbing.org.
  5. "Oriane Bertone, 15 Years Old, Climbs V15 First Ascent!". RockandIce.com. 27 May 2020. Retrieved 2020-05-27.
  6. Brown, Nick (18 January 2021). "15-Year-Old Oriane Bertone Climbs Font 8B+".
  7. "Psychopad, second 8B | V13 by Oriane Bertone". OnBouldering.com. 2017-12-12. Retrieved 2019-09-29.
  8. Grimper. "Oriane Bertone ouvre un nouveau bloc extrême à la Réunion et propose 8b". Grimper.com : l'actualité de l'escalade, tests matériel d'escalade, salles d'escalade (in French). Retrieved 2019-09-29.
  9. Staff, Climbing (20 January 2017). "Oriane Bertone Sends V13 at Age 11". Climbing Magazine. Retrieved 2019-09-29.
  10. Grimper. "Oriane Bertone s'offre un 8c/8c+". Grimper.com : l'actualité de l'escalade, tests matériel d'escalade, salles d'escalade (in French). Retrieved 2019-09-29.