Alex Honnold

Last updated

Alex Honnold
Alex Honnold in 2023 in Antarctica.jpg
Honnold in 2023
Personal information
Born (1985-08-17) August 17, 1985 (age 38) [1]
Sacramento, California, U.S.
Education University of California, Berkeley
Occupation Rock climber
Spouse
Sanni McCandless
​
(m. 2020)​
Children2 [2]
Climbing career
Type of climber
Highest grade
Known for
  • Free solo climbs of big wall routes
  • The first person to free solo a route on El Capitan
  • Speed record holder on The Nose of El Capitan

Alex Honnold (born August 17, 1985) is an American rock climber best known for his free solo ascents of big walls. Honnold rose to worldwide fame in June 2017 when he became the first person to free solo a route on El Capitan in Yosemite National Park (via the 2,900-foot route Freerider at 5.13a, the first-ever at that grade), [3] a climb described in The New York Times as "one of the great athletic feats of any kind, ever." [4] [5] Honnold also holds the record for the fastest ascent of the "Yosemite Triple Crown", an 18-hour, 50-minute link-up of Mount Watkins, The Nose , and the Regular Northwest Face of Half Dome. [6] In 2015, he won a Piolet d'Or in alpine climbing with Tommy Caldwell for their completion of the enchainment (known as the Fitz Traverse) of the Cerro Chaltén Group (or Fitzroy Group) in Patagonia over 5 days.

Contents

Honnold is the author (with David Roberts) of the memoir Alone on the Wall (2015) and the subject of the 2018 biographical documentary Free Solo , [7] which won a BAFTA and an Academy Award.

Early life and education

Honnold was born in Sacramento, California, the son of community college professor Dierdre Wolownick (b. 1951) [8] and Charles Honnold (1949–2004). [9] [10] His paternal roots are German, and his maternal roots are Polish. [11] He started climbing in a climbing gym at the age of 5 and was climbing "many times a week" by age 10. [12] He participated in many national and international youth climbing championships as a teenager.

"I was never, like, a bad climber [as a kid], but I had never been a great climber, either," he says. "There were a lot of other climbers who were much, much stronger than me, who started as kids and were, like, instantly freakishly strong – like they just have a natural gift. And that was never me. I just loved climbing, and I've been climbing all the time ever since, so I've naturally gotten better at it, but I've never been gifted." [13]

After graduating from Mira Loma High School as part of the International Baccalaureate Programme in 2003, he enrolled at the University of California, Berkeley, to study civil engineering. His maternal grandfather died, his parents divorced during his first year of college, and Honnold skipped many of his classes to boulder by himself at Indian Rock.

Climbing career

Honnold dropped out of Berkeley and spent time living at home and driving around California to go climbing. "I'd wound up with my mom's old minivan, and that was my base," he said. "I'd use it to drive to Joshua Tree to climb or I'd drive to LA to see my girlfriend. I destroyed that van fairly quickly; it died on me one day, and for the next year, I lived just on my bicycle and in a tent." [14]

In 2007, he bought a 2002 Ford Econoline E150 van, which allowed him to focus on climbing and following the weather. [15] [16]

According to a 2011 Alpinist profile: [15]

In the mind of the climbing world, Honnold emerged from the goo fully formed. In 2006 nobody had heard of him. In 2007 he free soloed Yosemite's Astroman and the Rostrum in a day, matching Peter Croft's legendary 1987 feat, and suddenly Honnold was pretty well-known. A year later, he free soloed the 1,200-foot (366m), 5.12d finger crack that splits Zion's Moonlight Buttress. The ascent was reported on April 1. For days, people thought the news was a joke. Five months afterward, Honnold took the unprecedented step of free soloing the 2,000-foot (610m), glacially bulldozed Regular Northwest Face of Half Dome. Croft called this climb the most impressive ropeless ascent ever done.

He gained mainstream recognition after his 2008 free solo of the Regular Northwest Face of Half Dome was featured in the film Alone on the Wall [17] and a subsequent 60 Minutes interview. [18]

In November 2011, Honnold and Hans Florine missed setting the speed climbing record on the famous Nose big wall climbing route on Yosemite's El Capitan by 45 seconds. [19] At the time the record stood at 2:36:45, as set by Dean Potter & Sean Leary in November 2010. [20] On June 17, 2012, Honnold and Florine set a new record of 2:23:46 (or 2:23:51 [21] ) on that same route. [22] [23]

Honnold at the Trento Film Festival in 2014 Alex Honnold - Trento Film Festival 2014.JPG
Honnold at the Trento Film Festival in 2014

In November 2014, Clif Bar announced that they would no longer sponsor Honnold, along with Dean Potter, Steph Davis, Timmy O'Neill and Cedar Wright. "We concluded that these forms of the sport are pushing boundaries and taking the element of risk to a place where we as a company are no longer willing to go," the company wrote in an open letter. [12] [24]

In 2016, he was subjected to functional magnetic resonance imaging scans that revealed that, unlike other high sensation seekers, [25] his amygdala barely activates when watching disturbing images. He however confesses feeling fear occasionally. Through imagination and practice, he has desensitized himself to most fearful situations. [26]

On June 3, 2017, he made the first-ever free solo ascent of El Capitan by completing Alex Huber's 2,900-foot (884m) big wall route, Freerider (5.13a VI), in 3 hours and 56 minutes. [27] The climb, described as "one of the great athletic feats of any kind, ever," [5] was documented by climber and photographer Jimmy Chin and documentary filmmaker E. Chai Vasarhelyi, as the subject of the documentary Free Solo . [28] Among other awards, the film won the Academy Award for Best Documentary Feature (2018). [29] [30]

On June 6, 2018, Honnold teamed up with Tommy Caldwell to break the Nose on El Capitan speed record in Yosemite. They completed the approximately 3,000-foot (914m) route in 1:58:07, becoming the first climbers to complete it in under two hours. [31]

In 2021, National Geographic signed Honnold for an original docuseries about his quest to climb across the peaks of Greenland. [32] Also in 2021, Honnold started a podcast about climbing called Climbing Gold. [33]

Personal life

Honnold in 2022 Alex Honnold in 2022.jpg
Honnold in 2022

Honnold lived in a van for over a decade. "I don't think 'van life' is particularly appealing," he says. "It's not like I love living in a car, but I love living in all these places. I love being in Yosemite; I love being basically wherever the weather is good; I love being able to follow good conditions all over. And be relatively comfortable as I do it. And so that pretty much necessitates living in a car ... If I could, like, miraculously teleport a house from place to place, I'd prefer to live in a nice comfortable house. Though, honestly, the van is kind of nice. I like having everything within arm's reach. When I stay in a hotel room – like, sometimes you get put up in a really classy hotel room, and it's really big, and you have to walk quite a ways to the bathroom, and you're like, 'Man, I wish I had my [pee] bottle.' Who wants to walk all the ways to the bathroom in the middle of the night when you could just lean over and grab your bottle and go?" [34] The van he lived in was custom-outfitted with a kitchenette and cabinets. [12]

In 2017, Honnold bought a home in the Las Vegas area. "I didn't have any furniture at first, so I lived in the van in the driveway for the first couple weeks. It felt more like home than an empty house did." [14] Around the same time, he replaced the Ford Econoline van he had lived in since 2007 and put 200,000 miles on with a new 2016 Ram ProMaster, which he still lives and travels in for most of the year. [34]

Honnold is a vegetarian, and he does not drink alcohol or use drugs. [13] Between climbs, he runs or hikes to maintain fitness. [1] He is an avid reader with interests in classic literature, environmentalism, and economics, and he describes himself as an anti-religion atheist [35] [36] and a feminist. [37]

Honnold met Sanni McCandless at a book signing in 2015; they became a couple soon after. [38] Sanni and her relationship with Honnold feature prominently in Free Solo . On December 25, 2019, Honnold announced, via social media, that he and McCandless were engaged. On September 13, 2020, Honnold announced via Instagram that he and McCandless had married. [39] Honnold's and McCandless daughter, June, was born on February 17, 2022. [40] Their second daughter, Alice, was born on February 6, 2024. [41]

Dierdre Wolownick, Alex Honnold's mother, started climbing at age 60 and is the oldest woman to climb El Capitan (first at the age of 66 and then, breaking her record, again at age 70). [42] [43]

Philanthropy

In 2012, Honnold began giving away one-third of his income to solar projects that increased energy access worldwide. Soon, this idea expanded to form the Honnold Foundation. The Honnold Foundation's mission is "promoting solar energy for a more equitable world". [44]

Books

Filmography

While Honnold is best known for his starring role in the Oscar-winning documentary Free Solo , he has also appeared in several other films and television episodes. [45] [46] [47]

Awards

Selected climbs

Big wall climbing

Bouldering

Single pitch (sport and traditional) climbing

Alpine climbing

See also

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Hans Florine</span> American rock climber (born 1964)

Hans Florine is an American rock climber, who holds the record for the number of ascents of Yosemite Valley's El Capitan and is known for holding the speed record on The Nose of Yosemite’s El Capitan 8 different times. Hans' last speed record on The Nose was accomplished with Alex Honnold for climbing The Nose in 2:23:46, on June 17, 2012. In addition to climbing El Capitan over 175 times, Hans also holds the record for the number of ascents of The Nose, climbing it more than 111 times.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">El Capitan</span> Vertical rock formation in Yosemite National Park

El Capitan is a vertical rock formation in Yosemite National Park, on the north side of Yosemite Valley, near its western end. The granite monolith is about 3,000 feet (914 m) from base to summit along its tallest face and is a world-famous location for big wall climbing, including the disciplines of aid climbing, free climbing, and more recently for free solo climbing.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Alexander Huber</span> German rock climber

Alexander Huber, is a German rock climber who is considered one of the greatest and most influential climbers in the history of rock climbing. Huber came to prominence in the early 1990s as the world's strongest sport climber after the passing of Wolfgang Güllich. He is the second-ever person to redpoint a 9a (5.14d) graded route by ascending Om in 1992, and has latterly come to be known as the first-ever person to redpoint a 9a+ (5.15a) graded route from his 1996 ascent of Open Air.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Solo climbing</span> Style of climbing performed alone

Solo climbing, or soloing, is a style of climbing in which the climber climbs a route alone, without the assistance of a belayer. By its very nature, it presents a higher degree of risk to the climber, and in some cases, is considered extremely high risk. Note that the use of the term "solo climbing" is generally separate from the action of bouldering, which is itself a form of solo climbing, but with less serious consequences in the case of a fall. The most dangerous form of solo climbing is free solo climbing, which means both climbing alone and without any form of climbing protection.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Tommy Caldwell</span> American rock climber

Tommy Caldwell is an American rock climber who has set records in sport climbing, traditional climbing, and in big-wall climbing. Caldwell made the first free ascents of several major routes on El Capitan in Yosemite National Park.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Free solo climbing</span> Form of climbing without protection

Free solo climbing, or free soloing, is a form of rock climbing where the climbers climb solo without ropes or other protective equipment, using only their climbing shoes and their climbing chalk. Free soloing is the most dangerous form of climbing, and, unlike bouldering, free soloists climb above safe heights, where a fall can be fatal. Though many climbers have free soloed climbing grades they are very comfortable on, only a tiny group free solo regularly, and at grades closer to the limit of their abilities.

<i>Regular Northwest Face of Half Dome</i> Multi-pitch climbing route in Yosemite, US

The Regular Northwest Face of Half Dome was the first Grade VI big wall climbing route in the United States. It was first climbed in 1957 by a team consisting of Royal Robbins, Mike Sherrick, and Jerry Gallwas. Its current aid climbing rating is VI 5.9 A1 or 5.12 for the free climbing variation. It is recognized in the historic climbing text Fifty Classic Climbs of North America and considered a classic around the world.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Enchainment</span> Mountaineering term to link up routes

In mountaineering and climbing, enchainment is climbing two or more mountains or climbing routes on a mountain in one outing. Rock climbing two or more routes in this manner are also called a "link up" in the United States. Climbers may do an enchainment of easy routes as a way of training for a more difficult objective, but some enchainments of hard routes are a prize in their own right, a notable example being the great north faces of the Alps.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">History of rock climbing</span> Key chronological milestones

In the history of rock climbing, the three main sub-disciplines—bouldering, single-pitch climbing, and big wall climbing—can trace their origins to late 19th-century Europe. Bouldering started in Fontainebleau, and was advanced by Pierre Allain in the 1930s, and John Gill in the 1950s. Big wall climbing started in the Dolomites, and was spread across the Alps in the 1930s by climbers such as Emilio Comici and Riccardo Cassin, and in the 1950s by Walter Bonatti, before reaching Yosemite where it was led in the 1950s to 1970s by climbers such as Royal Robbins. Single-pitch climbing started pre-1900 in both the Lake District and in Saxony, and by the late-1970s had spread widely with climbers such as Ron Fawcett (Britain), Bernd Arnold (Germany), Patrick Berhault (France), Ron Kauk and John Bachar (USA).

Beth Rodden is an American rock climber known for her ascents of hard single-pitch traditional climbing routes. She was the youngest woman to climb 5.14a (8b+) and is one of the only women in the world to have redpointed a 5.14c (8c+) traditional climbing graded climb. Rodden and fellow climber Tommy Caldwell were partners from 2000 to 2010, during which time they completed the second free ascent of The Nose. In 2008, Rodden made the first ascent of Meltdown, one of the hardest traditional climbs in the world and the first time in history that a female climber matched the peak of the highest climbing grades.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Dean Potter</span> American climber and BASE jumper

Dean Spaulding Potter was an American free climber, alpinist, BASE jumper, and highliner. He completed many hard first ascents, free solo ascents, speed ascents, and enchainments in Yosemite National Park and Patagonia. In 2015, he died in a wingsuit flying accident in Yosemite National Park.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Big wall climbing</span> Type of rock climbing

Big wall climbing is a form of rock climbing that takes place on long multi-pitch routes that normally require a full day, if not several days, to ascend. In addition, big wall routes are typically sustained and exposed, where the climbers remain suspended from the rock face, even sleeping hanging from the face, with limited options to sit down or escape unless they abseil back down the whole route. It is therefore a physically and mentally demanding form of climbing.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Speed climbing</span> Type of climbing

Speed climbing is a climbing discipline in which speed is the ultimate goal. Speed climbing is done on rocks, walls and poles and is only recommended for highly skilled and experienced climbers.

<i>The Nose</i> (El Capitan) Multi-pitch climbing route in Yosemite, US

The Nose is a big wall climbing route up El Capitan. Once considered impossible to climb, El Capitan is now the standard for big wall climbing. It is recognized in the historic climbing text Fifty Classic Climbs of North America and considered a classic around the world.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Separate Reality (climb)</span> Traditional climbing route in the USA

Separate Reality is a 66-foot (20 m) traditional climbing route in Yosemite National Park in California. The route is known for its exposed and dramatic crux that consists of a 20-foot (6.1 m) long crack in its horizontal roof. When it was first free-climbed by Ron Kauk in 1978, it was one of the first climbs in the world to have a grade of 7a+ (5.12a). In 1986, German climber Wolfgang Güllich free soloed the route, and the photographs by Austrian Heinz Zak became iconic in rock climbing history.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Sender Films</span> American film production company based in Boulder, Colorado

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Hazel Findlay is a British traditional climber, sport climber and big wall climber. She was the first female British climber to climb a route graded E9, and a route graded 8c (5.14b). She did the third ascent of the Yosemite traditional route Magic Line 5.14c (8c+). She has free climbed El Capitán four times on four different routes and made many first female ascents on other routes. Climbing magazine gave her their Golden Piton Award (Alpine) for traditional climbing in 2013.

<i>Free Solo</i> 2018 film by Jimmy Chin and Elizabeth Chai Vasarhelyi

Free Solo is a 2018 American documentary film directed by Elizabeth Chai Vasarhelyi and Jimmy Chin that profiles rock climber Alex Honnold on his quest to perform the first-ever free solo climb of a route on El Capitan, in Yosemite National Park, in June 2017.

Marc-André Leclerc was a Canadian rock climber, ice and mixed climber, and alpinist. He is known for his solo ascents–often in winter–of major ice and alpine climbing routes. In 2016, he completed the first winter solo ascents of both Torre Egger in Patagonia and of the Emperor Face of Mount Robson in Canada. In 2018, he was killed in an avalanche on the Mendenhall Towers in Alaska.

Brad Gobright was an American rock climber known for free solo climbing.

References

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  64. 1 2 Bacon, Sean (June 6, 2012). "Honnold's Biggest, Baddest Solo Yet". Climbing . Retrieved February 16, 2016.
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  69. ↑ "Alex Honnold Solos University [sic] Wall 5.12 in Squamish". Gripped Magazine. September 2, 2014.
  70. ↑ "Alex Honnold Solos The Complete Scream (E8 6b)". Climbing . June 6, 2016. Retrieved March 5, 2019.
  71. ↑ "Alex Honnold Solos Hard Ireland Route The Complete Scream". Gripped. June 9, 2016. Retrieved March 5, 2019.
  72. ↑ Berry, Natalie (June 6, 2016). "Alex Honnold Solos The Complete Scream E8 6b at Fair Head" . Retrieved March 5, 2019.
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  74. ↑ McPhate, Mike (June 6, 2017). "California Today: An 'Incomprehensible' Climb in Yosemite". The New York Times. ISSN   0362-4331 . Retrieved June 6, 2017.
  75. ↑ Clarke, Owen (June 4, 2018). "Honnold and Caldwell Break Nose Record (Again!), Blaze Up in 2:01:50!". rockandice.com. Retrieved June 4, 2018.
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  77. ↑ Gartner, Hannah (June 18, 2019). "Alex Honnold and Brad Gobright Get the Second Ascent of El Cap's Pineapple Express (VI 5.13c)". Climbing. Climbing.com. Retrieved August 19, 2023.
  78. ↑ Lucas, James (November 10, 2022). "Inside the FA of 'Passage to Freedom': El Cap 5.13d". Climbing. Climbing.com. Retrieved August 19, 2023.
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  89. ↑ "Logan Barber Makes 12th Ascent of Cobra Crack". August 26, 2017.
  90. ↑ "8a.nu: Global Climbing News". www.8a.nu.
  91. ↑ Ozturk, Renan (April 24, 2009). "The Borneo Dispatches". Climbing .
  92. ↑ "Borneo Big Wall". Borneobigwall.blogspot.fr. Retrieved January 4, 2016.
  93. ↑ Roy, Adam (June 19, 2009). "First ascent attempt of a massive big wall in Borneo". Matador Network. Retrieved January 4, 2016.
  94. ↑ "The mother of all traverses: The Fitz Traverse". SuperTopo. Retrieved January 4, 2016.
  95. ↑ "Caldwell, Honnold Finish 5k Fitz Roy Traverse – Alpinist.com". www.alpinist.com. February 18, 2014.
  96. ↑ MacDonald, Dougald (February 2, 2016). "Patagonia's Torre Traverse in Under 21 Hours". Climbing . Retrieved September 29, 2018.
  97. ↑ "Honnold and Caldwell Smash Devil's Thumb Traverse". Gripped Magazine. September 15, 2023. Retrieved October 30, 2023.

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