Personal information | |||||||||||||||
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Nickname | Jean | ||||||||||||||
Nationality | French | ||||||||||||||
Born | Nouméa, New Caledonia | 9 November 1984||||||||||||||
Home town | Houssen, France | ||||||||||||||
Occupation | Professional climber | ||||||||||||||
Years active | 1997–present | ||||||||||||||
Height | 184 cm (6 ft 0 in) | ||||||||||||||
Climbing career | |||||||||||||||
Type of climber | Competition climbing, Speed climbing | ||||||||||||||
Sport | |||||||||||||||
Coached by | Sylvain Chapelle | ||||||||||||||
Medal record
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Bassa Mawem (born 9 November 1984) is a French professional speed climber who specialises in competition climbing. He qualified for the 2020 Summer Olympics. [1] He also qualified for the 2024 Olympics. [2]
He won the overall title in the speed climbing event at the 2018 and 2019 IFSC Climbing World Cup.
On 3 August 2021, Mawem established the first Olympic Record of 5.45s during the Speed Qualifications but was unable to compete in the final due to an injury. [3]
At the 2024 Summer Olympics in Paris, Mawem won by 0.01 seconds his heat against Ukraine's Yaroslav Tkach in the elimination round of qualifications. Mawem ended up in seventh place after losing in the quarterfinals to Indonesia's Veddriq Leonardo, the eventual gold medalist.
His younger brother Mickaël is also a professional climber.
Discipline | 2020 | 2024 |
---|---|---|
Speed | — | 7 |
Combined | 8 | — |
Discipline | 2012 | 2014 | 2016 | 2018 | 2019 | 2021 | 2023 |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Speed | 17 | 7 | 4 | 2 | 13 | — | 13 |
Bouldering | — | — | — | 116 | 67 | — | — |
Lead | — | — | — | 105 | 60 | — | — |
Combined | — | — | — | 14 | 28 | — | — |
Discipline | 2011 | 2012 | 2013 | 2014 | 2015 | 2016 | 2017 | 2018 | 2019 | 2021 | 2022 | 2023 | 2024 |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Speed | 63 | 16 | 36 | 5 | 5 | 4 | 19 | 1 | 1 | — | — | 19 | 41 |
Combined | — | — | — | — | — | — | 51 | — | 19 | — | — | — |
Discipline | 2013 | 2015 | 2017 | 2019 | 2020 | 2022 |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Speed | 14 | 13 | — | — | — | 5 |
Speed climbing is a climbing discipline in which speed is the ultimate goal. Speed climbing is done on rocks, walls and poles and is only recommended for highly skilled and experienced climbers.
Janja Garnbret is a Slovenian professional rock climber who specializes in sport climbing and competition climbing. She has won multiple competition lead climbing and competition bouldering events, two Olympic gold medals, and is widely regarded as the greatest competition climber of all time. In 2021, Garnbret became the first-ever female Olympic gold medalist in climbing, and successfully defended her title in 2024. With two gold medals, she is the most successful Slovenian athlete at the Summer Olympics. She is also the world's first-ever female climber to onsight an 8c (5.14b) graded sport climbing route.
Competition climbing made its Olympic debut at the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo, Japan. Two events were held, one each for men and women. The format controversially consisted of one combined event with three disciplines: lead climbing, speed climbing and bouldering. The medals were determined based on best performance across all three disciplines. This format was previously tested at the 2018 Summer Youth Olympics. The Olympic code for sports climbing is CLB.
Reza Alipour Shenazandifard is an Iranian competition speed climber from Qazvin.
Jakob Schubert is an Austrian professional rock climber, specializing in competition climbing, sport climbing, and bouldering. He is a four-time World Champion and three-time World Cup winner in lead climbing. He is a two-time Olympic bronze medalist in the combined event.
Jessica Pilz is an Austrian professional rock climber who specializes in competition climbing. She won the bronze medal in the combined bouldering and lead climbing event at the 2024 Summer Olympics.
Tomoa Narasaki is a Japanese professional rock climber who specializes in bouldering and competition bouldering.
Competition climbing has been held at two editions of the Summer Olympic Games. First selected as one of the discretionary sports at the 2020 and 2024 games, sport climbing will be inducted as one of the mandatory sports at the 2028 games. Athletes compete in the disciplines of bouldering, lead climbing, and speed climbing. All three were contested as a single event in the 2020 programme, while speed climbing was spun off into its own event in the 2024 programme. Slovenia have won the most gold medals (2), while Austria, Japan, and the United States have won the most medals overall.
Miho Nonaka is a Japanese competition climber who specializes in competition bouldering. She is an Olympic silver medalist in sport climbing.
Iuliia Vladimirovna Kaplina is a Russian competition climber who has won multiple competition speed climbing events and set multiple world records. She was the world record holder in women's speed climbing until 6 August 2021, setting the record at the 2020 European Championships in Moscow (6.964).
Ludovico Fossali is an Italian competition speed climber. He competed at the 2020 Summer Olympics, in Men's combined climbing.
Aleksandra (Ola) Mirosław is a Polish soldier and competition speed climber. She is a two-time women's speed world champion as well as the current women's competition speed climbing world record holder. Mirosław won the gold medal at the 2024 Summer Olympics in the speed climbing event, becoming the first ever Olympic champion in this event.
The men's combined event at the 2020 Summer Olympics was a climbing competition combining three disciplines. It was held from August 3 to August 5, 2021 at the Aomi Urban Sports Park in Tokyo. A total of 20 athletes from 15 nations competed. Sport climbing was one of four new sports added to the Olympic program for 2020.
Mickaël Mawem is a French professional rock climber who specializes in competition bouldering. He is the 2023 World boulder champion. He qualified for the 2020 Summer Olympics by finishing 7th at the 2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships. He also won the bouldering event in the 2019 IFSC Climbing European Championships, and at the 2023 World Championships at Bern.
The 2019 IFSC Combined Qualifier was an Olympic Qualifying Event. It was held from 28 November to 1 December 2019 in Toulouse, France. It was organized by the French Federation of Sport Climbing and Mountaineering or FFME. The athletes competed in combined format of three disciplines: speed, bouldering, and lead, simulating the 2020 Olympics format. Six athletes per gender would qualify for the 2020 Tokyo Olympics through this event. The winner for men was Kokoro Fujii and for women was Futaba Ito.
Competition climbing at the 2024 Summer Olympics took place from 5 to 10 August at Le Bourget Sport Climbing Venue in Saint-Denis, returning to the program for the second time since the sport's official debut three years earlier in Tokyo 2020. The total number of medal events was doubled from two in the previous edition because the boulder-and-lead tandem had been separated from the speed format. Furthermore, the number of climbers increased from 40 to 68.
Yaroslav Tkach is a Ukrainian competition speed climber. He is 2022 World Games bronze medalist.
Emma Hunt is an American competition climber who specializes in competition speed climbing, and holds the American women's speed record with 6.301 seconds, set at the USA Climbing North American Cup in Salt Lake City in April 2024.
In qualifying for the 2024 Summer Olympics, a total of 68 climbers, with an equal distribution between men and women, will compete across two separate competition climbing disciplines at these Games for the first time, namely: a unique competition bouldering-and-competition lead climbing combined event, and a separate competition speed climbing event.
Samuel Watson is an American professional rock climber who specializes in competition speed climbing and represents the United States at IFSC Climbing World Cups. He holds the world record for the discipline at 4.74 seconds, accomplished at the 2024 Summer Olympics in Paris, France, where he took a bronze medal.