Jan Hojer

Last updated
Jan Hojer
Climbing World Championships 2018 Combined Final Hojer (BT0B0593).jpg
Hojer in 2018
Personal information
NationalityGerman
Born (1992-02-09) February 9, 1992 (age 32)
Cologne, Germany
OccupationProfessional rock climber
Height188 cm (6 ft 2 in)
Weight77 kg (170 lb)
Climbing career
Type of climber
Ape index+10 cm (4 in)
Highest grade
Known forWinning one World Cup and two European Championships
Medal record
Men's competition climbing
Representing Flag of Germany.svg  Germany
World Championships
Silver medal icon (S initial).svg 2014 Munich/Gijón Combined
Bronze medal icon (B initial).svg 2014 Munich Bouldering
Bronze medal icon (B initial).svg 2018 Innsbruck Combined
World Cup
Winner2014Bouldering
Silver medal icon.svg2015Bouldering
European Championships
Gold medal icon (G initial).svg2015Bouldering
Gold medal icon (G initial).svg2017Bouldering
Gold medal icon (G initial).svg2017Combined
The World Games
Silver medal icon (S initial).svg 2017 Bouldering
Updated on 21 September 2018.
Hojer competing at the World Cup, Munich, 2015 Hojer jan 0288.JPG
Hojer competing at the World Cup, Munich, 2015
Hojer, 2015 Hojer jan 0429.JPG
Hojer, 2015
Hojer second at the World Cup 2015 Winners men saison IFSC WC 2015 0785.JPG
Hojer second at the World Cup 2015

Jan Hojer (born February 9, 1992) is a German professional rock climber specializing in sport climbing, bouldering, and competition climbing. He is known for winning one World Cup and two European Championships in competition bouldering. In May 2010, he climbed Action Directe , one of the most difficult sport climbing routes in the world. From 2013 to 2015, he sent several 8C  (V15) boulder problems.

Contents

Climbing career

Competition climbing

Hojer started participating in German Lead climbing youth competitions in 2004, at the age of 10. From 2008 to 2010 he participated in the Lead Climbing World Cup. Since his performances in lead climbing were never outstanding, he quit competing in that discipline in 2011 and started competing in bouldering. Notable results started coming next year, when he ranked fifth in the Climbing World Championships. He won the seasonal title of the Bouldering Climbing World Cup in 2014 and finished second in 2015. [1]

In 2015 and 2017 he won the Climbing European Championships in Bouldering. [1] Also in 2017, he won the silver medal at the Bouldering World Games in Wroclaw, Poland.

Hojer has won national championships in all climbing disciplines. He won the lead in 2008, 2017, and 2019. In bouldering he won in 2011, 2014, 2015, and 2016, finished second in 2017, and has not competed since. Hojer won the first German National Championship in the combined format in 2018, and in 2019 he won the only discipline that he hadn't won yet, speed.

In 2019 Hojer qualified for the 2020 Summer Olympics through his performance at the IFSC Combined Qualifier event in Toulouse. [2] Hojer finished 12th out of 20 at the Tokyo Olympics.

Rock climbing

He also obtained outstanding results in outdoor climbing. In May 2010, he redpointed the sport climbing route, Action Directe . From 2013 to 2015, he sent several outdoor bouldering problems at the grade of 8C  (V15). In 2018, he made the third ascent of the deep-water soloing route, Es Pontàs at 9a+  (5.15a).

Results

Climbing World Cup

Discipline [3] 2008200920102011201220132014201520162017
Lead222243----33-17
Bouldering---332081297
Speed---------29
Combined-------5-7

Climbing World Championships

Discipline [1] 200920112012201420162018
Lead30--30-29
Bouldering394653279
Speed---30-33
Combined---2-3

Climbing European Championships

Discipline [1] 2010201320152017
Lead41--21
Bouldering-2011
Speed---23
Combined---1

Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup

Bouldering

Season [1] GoldSilverBronzeTotal
201211
2013112
2014325
201511
201611
201711
20180
201911
Total64212

Rock climbing

Redpointed routes

9a+  (5.15a):

9a  (5.14d):

8c+  (5.14c):

  • Pati noso - Siurana (ESP) - April 27, 2011
  • Bah Bah Black Sheep - Céüse (FRA) - July 22, 2010

Boulder problems

8C  (V15):

8B+  (V14):

  • Jour de Chasse - Fontainebleau (FRA) - December 2013 - First ascent. Hojer graded it a soft 8C, possibly because he did not use a heel hook that, according to some repeaters, makes it easier to climb. [8]
  • Dreamtime - Cresciano (CHE) - February 18, 2013. Rated 8C by Hojer, who described it as "much harder than any 8B+ i've ever tried.." [9]

Related Research Articles

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References

  1. 1 2 3 4 5 IFSC, ed. (August 20, 2019). "Hojer's profile and rankings" . Retrieved August 20, 2019.
  2. "These Six Climbers Are Now Going to the Olympics". Gripped Magazine. 28 November 2019. Retrieved 18 July 2021.
  3. IFSC, ed. (August 20, 2019). "World Cup Rankings" . Retrieved August 20, 2019.
  4. Quoi de Neuf 8c jan hojer
  5. Hojer sends The Story of Two Worlds V15
  6. Le Marathon de Boissy 8c Boissy aux Cailles
  7. Jan Hojer repeating The Big Island (V15) on ukclimbing.com, Incl. Video.
  8. Comments about Jour de Chasse on 8a.nu
  9. Hojer's boulders on 8a.nu