Personal information | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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Nationality | German | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Born | Cologne, Germany | February 9, 1992|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Occupation | Professional rock climber | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Height | 188 cm (6 ft 2 in) | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Weight | 77 kg (170 lb) | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Climbing career | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Type of climber | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Ape index | +10 cm (4 in) | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Highest grade |
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Known for | Winning one World Cup and two European Championships | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Medal record
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Updated on 21 September 2018. |
Jan Hojer (born February 9, 1992) is a German professional rock climber specializing in sport climbing, bouldering, and competition climbing. He is known for winning one World Cup and two European Championships in competition bouldering. In May 2010, he climbed Action Directe , one of the most difficult sport climbing routes in the world. From 2013 to 2015, he sent several 8C (V15) boulder problems.
Hojer started participating in German Lead climbing youth competitions in 2004, at the age of 10. From 2008 to 2010 he participated in the Lead Climbing World Cup. Since his performances in lead climbing were never outstanding, he quit competing in that discipline in 2011 and started competing in bouldering. Notable results started coming next year, when he ranked fifth in the Climbing World Championships. He won the seasonal title of the Bouldering Climbing World Cup in 2014 and finished second in 2015. [1]
In 2015 and 2017 he won the Climbing European Championships in Bouldering. [1] Also in 2017, he won the silver medal at the Bouldering World Games in Wroclaw, Poland.
Hojer has won national championships in all climbing disciplines. He won the lead in 2008, 2017, and 2019. In bouldering he won in 2011, 2014, 2015, and 2016, finished second in 2017, and has not competed since. Hojer won the first German National Championship in the combined format in 2018, and in 2019 he won the only discipline that he hadn't won yet, speed.
In 2019 Hojer qualified for the 2020 Summer Olympics through his performance at the IFSC Combined Qualifier event in Toulouse. [2] Hojer finished 12th out of 20 at the Tokyo Olympics.
He also obtained outstanding results in outdoor climbing. In May 2010, he redpointed the sport climbing route, Action Directe . From 2013 to 2015, he sent several outdoor bouldering problems at the grade of 8C (V15). In 2018, he made the third ascent of the deep-water soloing route, Es Pontàs at 9a+ (5.15a).
Discipline [3] | 2008 | 2009 | 2010 | 2011 | 2012 | 2013 | 2014 | 2015 | 2016 | 2017 |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Lead | 22 | 22 | 43 | - | - | - | - | 33 | - | 17 |
Bouldering | - | - | - | 33 | 20 | 8 | 1 | 2 | 9 | 7 |
Speed | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | 29 |
Combined | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | 5 | - | 7 |
Discipline [1] | 2009 | 2011 | 2012 | 2014 | 2016 | 2018 |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Lead | 30 | - | - | 30 | - | 29 |
Bouldering | 39 | 46 | 5 | 3 | 27 | 9 |
Speed | - | - | - | 30 | - | 33 |
Combined | - | - | - | 2 | - | 3 |
Discipline [1] | 2010 | 2013 | 2015 | 2017 |
---|---|---|---|---|
Lead | 41 | - | - | 21 |
Bouldering | - | 20 | 1 | 1 |
Speed | - | - | - | 23 |
Combined | - | - | - | 1 |
Season [1] | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
---|---|---|---|---|
2012 | 1 | 1 | ||
2013 | 1 | 1 | 2 | |
2014 | 3 | 2 | 5 | |
2015 | 1 | 1 | ||
2016 | 1 | 1 | ||
2017 | 1 | 1 | ||
2018 | 0 | |||
2019 | 1 | 1 | ||
Total | 6 | 4 | 2 | 12 |
9a+ (5.15a):
9a (5.14d):
8c+ (5.14c):
8C (V15):
8B+ (V14):
Action Directe is a short 15-metre (49 ft) sport climb at the limestone Waldkopf crag in Frankenjura, Germany. When it was first climbed by German climber Wolfgang Güllich in 1991, it became the first climb in the world to have a consensus 9a (5.14d) grade. Action Directe is considered an important route in rock climbing history, and is one of the most attempted climbs at its grade, where it is considered the "benchmark" for the level of 9a. The plyometric training techniques and customized equipment that Güllich used to prepare for the unique physical demands of Action Directe also revolutionized climbing and what could be achieved.
David Ethan Graham is an American professional rock climber. Professing to enjoy bouldering the most, he is one of the elite sport climbers and boulderers of his generation. Graham repeats classic routes or boulder problems as well as performing cutting-edge first ascents. He is known for climbing in 2005 an 8C (V15) graded boulder problem called The Story of Two Worlds, in Cresciano, Switzerland). He is also known for his stance against grade inflation and for his strong anti-chipping ethic. He writes an ongoing blog for the website of Climbing Magazine.
Fred Rouhling is a French rock climber and boulderer, noted for creating and repeating some of the earliest grade 9a (5.14d) sport climbing routes in the world, including Hugh in 1993, the first-ever French 9a (5.14d) sport route. Rouhling is also known for the controversy from his proposed grading of 9b (5.15b) for his 1995 route Akira, which would have made it the world's first-ever 9b-graded sport route; 25 years later, it was graded at 9a (5.14d).
Dai Koyamada is a Japanese rock climber and known as one of the leading boulderers of his generation who established some of the first-ever boulder problems at 8C (V15). He has also established and repeated, some of the hardest sport climbs in the world.
Ramón Julián Puigblanque is a professional Spanish rock climber specializing in competition lead climbing and sport climbing. He won two World Championships, in 2007 and 2011, three European Championships, in 2004 2010 and 2015, and one Lead Climbing World Cup in 2010. From 2001 to 2016, he participated in 16 seasons of the World Cup, winning 21 World Cup stages. He has also redpointed several sport routes above 9a (5.14d), and made the first free ascent of La Rambla.
Adam Ondra is a Czech professional rock climber, specializing in lead climbing, bouldering, and competition climbing. In 2013, Rock & Ice described Ondra as a prodigy and the leading climber of his generation. Ondra is the only male athlete to have won World Championship titles in both disciplines in the same year (2014) and is one of the two male athletes to have won the World Cup series in both disciplines.
Ashima Shiraishi is an American rock climber. Shiraishi started climbing at the age of six at Rat Rock in Central Park, joining her father. Only a few years later, she quickly established herself as one of the top boulderers and sport climbers in the world. Her numerous accolades include first-place finishes in international competitions, and multiple first female and youngest ascents. Shiraishi is featured in several short documentary-style films, and is the subject of the documentary short "Return to the Red" (2012).
Daniel Woods is an American professional rock climber who specializes in bouldering, and who is considered one of the most important climbers in the history of bouldering. Woods has climbed over thirty boulder problems graded at or above 8C (V15). He has also won several competition bouldering events, such as the U.S. National Bouldering Championship and some international events. In March 2021, Woods achieved the first ascent of a low start to Sleepwalker V16 (8C+) which he named Return of the Sleepwalker and proposed the grade 9A (V17), only the second-ever route in history at that grade.
Jimmy Webb is an American professional rock climber specializing in bouldering. He is one of a handful of climbers who have climbed the boulder grade V16 (8C+).
Mélissa Le Nevé is a French professional rock climber specializing in competition bouldering, but and also in outdoor sport climbing and bouldering.
Alexander Megos is a German rock climber specializing in sport climbing, bouldering and competition climbing. In 2013, he became the first-ever climber to onsight a 9a (5.14d) graded route. He has made the first free ascent (FFA) of some of the hardest sport climbing routes in the world, including two 9b+ (5.15c) routes, three 9b (5.15b) routes, and several boulders with a boulder 8C (V15) rating.
Anak Verhoeven is a Belgian rock climber who specializes in sport climbing and in competition lead climbing. She has repeatedly won the Belgian National Championship in lead climbing. In 2016, she ranked first on the IFSC World Ranking List. In 2017, she won both the World Games and IFSC Climbing European Championships. Verhoeven is also one of the strongest female sport climbers, and in 2017, became the first-ever woman in history to establish a new 9a+ (5.15a) route, Sweet Neuf.
Kilian Fischhuber is a professional Austrian rock climber who specializes in bouldering, sport climbing and competition climbing, where competes in bouldering and lead climbing. From 2005 to 2011, he won five Bouldering World Cups. No other male climber was ever able to win it more than three times, or win it three times in a row. Due to his outstanding career, he was awarded the La Sportiva Competition Award in 2009, together with Chris Sharma.
Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza, best known as Patxi Usobiaga, is a Spanish professional rock climber, sports climber and boulderer. He is known for winning two Lead Climbing World Cups in a row, and for being the first-ever climber in history to onsight an 8c+ (5.14c) route.
Christian Core is an Italian professional rock climber who specialises in bouldering and competition bouldering. He is known for being the first-ever person in the world to climb an 8C+ (V16) boulder, Gioia, in 2008. As a competition climber, Core won the Bouldering World Cup twice in 1999 and 2002, and also won the Bouldering World Championship in 2003.
Jernej Kruder is a Slovenian rock climber who specializes in competition climbing, bouldering and sport climbing. In 2018, he won the IFSC Climbing World Cup in competition bouldering.
Laura Rogora is an Italian rock climber who specializes in sport climbing and in competition climbing. In 2021, she became the third-ever female climber in history to redpoint a 9b (5.15b)-graded sport climbing route, with her ascent of Erebor in Italy.
Dreamtime is a 10-metre (33 ft) long gneiss bouldering route in a forest in Cresciano, Switzerland. When first solved in October 2000 by Swiss bouldering pioneer Fred Nicole, it was graded at 8C (V15), making it the world's first-ever boulder route at that grade. With subsequent repeat ascents, it was regraded to 8B+ (V14), but after the breaking of a key hold in 2009, its grade is now considered closer to 8C (V15). Dreamtime is the most notable bouldering route in climbing history along with Midnight Lightning, and is renowned for both its beauty and its challenge.
Simon Lorenzi is a Belgian professional rock climber specializing in sport climbing, bouldering and competition climbing. Lorenzi is one of the very few climbers to have repeated a V17 (9A) bouldering route, and the third climber to solve Burden of Dreams, the first-ever V17 (9A) graded boulder route. Lorenzi also made the first ascent of Soudain Seul, a V16/V17 boulder.