Romain Desgranges

Last updated
Romain Desgranges
RomainDesgranges-2.JPG
Romain Desgranges at the Climbing European Championships, Chamonix, 2013
Personal information
NationalityFrench
Born (1982-10-12) October 12, 1982 (age 41)
Sainte-Colombe, France
OccupationProfessional rock climber
Height174 cm (5 ft 9 in)
Weight56 kg (123 lb)
Website desgranges-romain.com
Climbing career
Type of climber
Highest grade
Known forWinning the European Championships in 2013 and 2017
Medal record
European Championships
Gold medal icon (G initial).svg2013Lead
Gold medal icon (G initial).svg2017Lead
World Cup
Bronze medal icon.svg2016Lead
Winner2017Lead
Bronze medal icon.svg2018Lead
Updated on October 30, 2018.

Romain Desgranges, born on October 12, 1982, in Sainte-Colombe, is a French professional rock climber who specializes in competition climbing, and in outdoor sport climbing and bouldering.

Contents

Biography

Romain Desgranges started climbing when he was 14 years old in his school. [1]

In 2017, he won both the Climbing European Championships and the Climbing World Cup in the competition lead climbing discipline.

Rankings

Climbing World Championships [2]

Discipline20092011201220142016
Lead1514675

Climbing European Championships [2]

Discipline2004200620082010201320152017
Lead18-1219141

Climbing World Cup [3]

Discipline2003200420052006200720082009201020112012201320142015201620172018
Lead441814241411121155645313
Bouldering38---------------
Combined16-------------4-

World Games

Discipline2009
Lead3

Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup

Lead [2]

Tribute from the French Federation of Mountaineering and Climbing.
SeasonGoldSilverBronzeTotal
201111
201222
20130
2014123
2015112
2016112
201733
2018123
Total64616

Rock climbing

Boulder problems

8C+  (V16):

  • The Kaizer Sauzé - Walid Wood (FRA) - 2011 - First ascent [4]

8B+  (V14):

8B  (V13):

  • La danse des Balrogs - Branson (Monthey, SUI) - November 2009 [5]
  • Seveso - Fionnay (SUI) - September 2009 - First ascent [6]
  • Permanent Midnight - Fionnay (Switzerland) - September 2009 [6]

Redpointed routes

9a  (5.14d):

See also

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Dave Graham (climber)</span> American rock climber

David Ethan Graham is an American professional rock climber. Professing to enjoy bouldering the most, he is one of the elite sport climbers and boulderers of his generation. Graham repeats classic routes or boulder problems as well as performing cutting-edge first ascents. He is known for climbing in 2005 an 8C (V15) graded boulder problem called The Story of Two Worlds, in Cresciano, Switzerland). He is also known for his stance against grade inflation and for his strong anti-chipping ethic. He writes an ongoing blog for the website of Climbing Magazine.

Fred Rouhling is a French rock climber and boulderer, noted for creating and repeating some of the earliest grade 9a (5.14d) sport climbing routes in the world, including Hugh in 1993, the first-ever French 9a (5.14d) sport route. Rouhling is also known for the controversy from his proposed grading of 9b (5.15b) for his 1995 route Akira, which would have made it the world's first-ever 9b-graded sport route; 25 years later, it was graded at 9a (5.14d).

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Yuji Hirayama</span> Japanese rock climber

Yuji Hirayama is a Japanese rock climber specializing in lead climbing competitions. He won two Lead World Cups, in 1998 and in 2000. He is notable for being the first-ever climber to onsight an 8c (5.14b) route, and for his various speed records on El Capitan.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Ramón Julián Puigblanqué</span> Spanish rock climber

Ramón Julián Puigblanque is a professional Spanish rock climber specializing in competition lead climbing and sport climbing. He won two World Championships, in 2007 and 2011, three European Championships, in 2004 2010 and 2015, and one Lead Climbing World Cup in 2010. From 2001 to 2016, he participated in 16 seasons of the World Cup, winning 21 World Cup stages. He has also redpointed several sport routes above 9a (5.14d), and made the first free ascent of La Rambla.

(not to be confused with Tomas Mrazek, the boxer with an impressive 10-75 record).

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Adam Ondra</span> Czech climber (born 1993)

Adam Ondra is a Czech professional rock climber, specializing in lead climbing, bouldering, and competition climbing. In 2013, Rock & Ice described Ondra as a prodigy and the leading climber of his generation. Ondra is the only male athlete to have won World Championship titles in both disciplines in the same year (2014) and is also the only male athlete to have won the World Cup series in both disciplines.

Malcolm Smith is a Scottish rock climber and climbing|competition climber who in 2002, won the bouldering IFSC Climbing World Cup.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Ashima Shiraishi</span> American rock climber (born 2001)

Ashima Shiraishi is an American rock climber. Shiraishi started climbing at the age of six at Rat Rock in Central Park, joining her father. Only a few years later, she quickly established herself as one of the top boulderers and sport climbers in the world. Her numerous accolades include first-place finishes in international competitions, and multiple first female and youngest ascents. Shiraishi is featured in several short documentary-style films, and is the subject of the documentary short "Return to the Red" (2012).

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Angela Eiter</span> Austrian professional climber

Angela "Angy" Eiter is an Austrian professional rock climber who specialises in competition climbing and sport climbing. In competition lead climbing, she won three IFSC World Cups in a row (2004–2006), and four IFSC World Championships. In 2011, she achieved her 25th win in World Cup and her 42nd podium. She is also one of the strongest sport climbers in the world, and in 2017, became the first-ever female in history to climb a 9b (5.15b) route, La Planta de Shiva. In 2020, she became the first-ever female in history to complete the first free ascent (FFA) of a 9b (5.15b) route, Madame Ching.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Stefano Ghisolfi</span> Italian rock climber (born 1993)

Stefano Ghisolfi is an Italian professional rock climber, who specializes in competition climbing, sport climbing, and bouldering. In competition climbing, he completes in competition lead climbing, competition bouldering, and competition speed climbing, with lead being his strongest discipline. As a sport climber, he has redpointed sport climbing routes of grade 9b+ (5.15c), onsighted routes of 8c (5.14b), and solved boulder problems at grade 8B+ (V14). In December 2018, after climbing Perfecto Mundo, he became the fourth climber in history to redpoint a 9b+ (5.15c) route.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Sachi Amma</span> Japanese rock climber

Sachi Amma is a Japanese professional rock climber and sport climber. He won the IFSC Climbing World Cup twice, in 2012 and 2013.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Kilian Fischhuber</span> Austrian rock climber

Kilian Fischhuber is a professional Austrian rock climber who specializes in bouldering, sport climbing and competition climbing, where competes in bouldering and lead climbing. From 2005 to 2011, he won five Bouldering World Cups. No other male climber was ever able to win it more than three times, or win it three times in a row. Due to his outstanding career, he was awarded the La Sportiva Competition Award in 2009, together with Chris Sharma.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Patxi Usobiaga</span> Spanish rock climber (born 1980)

Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza, best known as Patxi Usobiaga, is a Spanish professional rock climber, sports climber and boulderer. He is known for winning two Lead Climbing World Cups in a row, and for being the first-ever climber in history to onsight an 8c+ (5.14c) route.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Jan Hojer</span> German rock climber

Jan Hojer is a German professional rock climber specializing in sport climbing, bouldering, and competition climbing. He is known for winning one World Cup and two European Championships in competition bouldering. In May 2010, he climbed Action Directe, one of the most difficult sport climbing routes in the world. From 2013 to 2015, he sent several 8C (V15) boulder problems.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Muriel Sarkany</span> Belgian rock climber

Muriel Sarkany is a Belgian professional rock climber who specialized in competition lead climbing where she is known for winning five Climbing World Cups. She also specialized in outdoor sport climbing and is considered the fourth-ever female climber in history to redpoint a 9a (5.14d)-graded route, which was PuntX, in Gorges du Loup, in FRA.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Johanna Ernst</span> Austrian professional rock climber

Johanna Ernst is an Austrian professional rock climber who specialised in competition lead climbing and competition bouldering, but also does outdoor sport climbing.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou</span> American rock climber

Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou, is an American rock climber and rock climbing coach. In competition lead climbing, she is a 4-time World Cup champion, and won the biennial World Championships in 1995. She is the third-ever woman in history to redpoint a 5.14a (8b+) graded sport climbing route. She has coached several competition climbers, including Megan Mascarenas, Margo Hayes and her daughter, Brooke Raboutou.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Liv Sansoz</span> French rock climber

Liv Sansoz is a French professional rock climber, ice climber, and base jumper. She is known for being three times World Cup winner and twice World Champion in Lead climbing. She had a year off after a fall but returned and climbed every Alp over 4,000 metres.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">François Legrand (climber)</span> French rock climber

François Legrand is a French professional rock climber who specializes in sport climbing and competition climbing, who is known for winning five Lead Climbing World Cups, and three consecutive Lead Climbing World Championships. As of 2022, no other climber has matched his achievement in IFSC lead climbing, and as of the end of 2022, Legrand had won the third most IFSC gold medals of any competitive climber in history.

References

  1. "Outsportsteam: Romain Desgranges". www.outdoorsportsteam.com. 26 July 2011. Archived from the original on 20 December 2012. Retrieved 8 June 2012.
  2. 1 2 3 IFSC, ed. (August 20, 2019). "Desgranges's profile and rankings" . Retrieved August 20, 2019.
  3. IFSC, ed. (August 20, 2019). "World Cup Rankings" . Retrieved August 20, 2019.
  4. Pierre Delas. "Romain Desgranges, un Bloc extrême "The Kaiser sauzé"". www.kairn.com. Archived from the original on 2008-12-28.
  5. 1 2 "Romain Desgranges s'offre Radja, 8B+". www.kairn.com. Archived from the original on 2013-06-29.
  6. 1 2 Pierre Delas (17 September 2009). "Two 8B's by Romain Desgranges". www.ukclimbing.com.
  7. "Nina Caprez encadena Full equip en Oliana y la decota de 8c a 8b". desnivel.com (in Spanish). 30 March 2011.
  8. "Romain Desgranges repite 'El intento' de Cuenca en 1 hora". desnivel.com (in Spanish). 19 April 2016.