| 2005 UIAA Climbing World Championships | |
|---|---|
| Location |  Munich, Germany |
| Date | 1 – 5 July 2005 |
| Competitors | 318 from 51 nations |
The 2005 UIAA Climbing World Championships , the 8th edition, were held in Munich, Germany from 1 to 5 July 2005. It was organized by the Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme (UIAA). The championships consisted of lead, speed, and bouldering events. [1] [2]
The lead chief route-setter was Donato Lella.
| Event | Gold | Silver | Bronze | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Men's Lead | Tomas Mrazek  Czech Republic | Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza  Spain | Alexandre Chabot  France | |||
| Men's Bouldering | Salavat Rakhmetov  Russia | Kilian Fischhuber  Austria | Gerome Pouvreau France | |||
| Men's Speed | Evgenii Vaitsekhovskii Russia | Maksym Styenkovyy  Ukraine | Sergei Sinitcyn Russia | |||
| Women's Lead | Angela Eiter Austria | Emily Harrington  United States | Akiyo Noguchi  Japan | |||
| Women's Bouldering | Olga Shalagina Ukraine | Yulia Abramchuk Russia | Vera Kotasova-Kostruhova Czech Republic | |||
| Women's Speed | Olena Ryepko Ukraine | Valentina Yurina Russia | Edyta Ropek  Poland | |||
In men's lead, three climbers topped the route, and so their final standings were decided by their semifinal results. [3]
In men's bouldering, the 38-year-old veteran Salavat Rakhmetov sent all six problems in his first attempts in the final round, claiming the gold. Second place Kilian Fischhuber also sent all six problems, but needed two attempts more than Rakhmetov, while third place Gerome Pouvreau needed 13 attempts to top and 11 attempts to zone all six boulder problems. [4]
In men's speed, Evgenii Vaitsekhovskii won the gold medal, while Maksym Styenkovyy and Sergei Sinitcyn took second and third respectively.
| Lead [5] [3] | Bouldering [6] [4] | Speed [7] | ||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Rank | Name | Score | Result | Rank | Name | Score | Result | Rank | Name | Result |
 | Tomáš Mrázek | Top | 8800 | | Salavat Rakhmetov | 6t6 6z6 | 8400 | | Evgenii Vaitsekhovskii | 5900 |
 | Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza | Top | 7040 | | Kilian Fischhuber | 6t8 6z8 | 6720 | | Maksym Styenkovyy | 4720 |
 | Alexandre Chabot | Top | 5720 | | Gerome Pouvreau | 6t13 6z11 | 5460 | | Sergei Sinitcyn | 3835 |
| 4 |  Cedric Lachat | 30.22- | 4840 | 4 | Serik Kazbekov | 6t13 6z13 | 4620 | 4 | Tomasz Oleksy | 3245 |
| 5 |  Jorg Verhoeven | 29.09+ | 4488 | 5 |  Nalle Hukkataival | 5t5 5z5 | 4284 | 5 |  Manuel Escobar | 3009 |
| 6 | Timo Preussler | 29.09+ | 4136 | 6 | Daniel Du Lac | 5t7 5z6 | 3948 | 6 | Evgueni Minatchev | 2773 |
| 7 | Serik Kazbekov | 27.51+ | 3784 | 7 | Dmitrii Sharafutdinov | 5t7 5z7 | 3612 | 7 | Iakov Soubbotine | 2537 |
| 8 | Maksym Petrenko | 11.96- | 3520 | 8 | Cedric Lachat | 5t8 6z12 | 3360 | 8 | Alexander Peshekhonov | 2360 |
| 9 | Sylvain Millet | 11.24+ | 3256 | 9 | Tomáš Mrázek | 4t6 4z6 | 3108 | 9 | Kyrylo Shevchenko | 2183 |
| 10 | Ramón Julián Puigblanqué | - | 2992 | 10 | Jérôme Meyer | 4t7 5z9 | 2856 | 10 | Vyacheslav Titov | 2006 |
| 11 | Keita Mogaki | 3t3 5z10 | 2604 | |||||||
| 12 | Jorg Verhoeven | 3t3 4z5 | 2352 | |||||||
In women's lead, Angela Eiter dominated the competition by being the only climber topping the semifinal route and climbing six meters higher than the rest of the competition on the final route. Emily Harrington climbed to second place while 16-year-old Akiyo Noguchi claimed the bronze medal, her first medal in senior competition. The defending champion Muriel Sarkany placed 10th. [3]
In women's bouldering, Olga Shalagina had a clean run by topping all six boulder problems in her first attempts in the final round. Yulia Abramchuk and Vera Kotasova-Kostruhova sent five problems, separated by attempts. The 35-year-old Renata Piszczek from Poland finished 4th, ahead of Anna Stöhr. [4]
In women's speed, Olena Ryepko took the win, and Valentina Yurina and Edyta Ropek claimed second and third place respectively.
| Lead [8] [3] | Bouldering [9] [4] | Speed [10] | ||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Rank | Name | Score | Result | Rank | Name | Score | Result | Rank | Name | Result |
| Angela Eiter | 29.34- | 8700 | | Olga Shalagina | 6t6 6z6 | 8800 | | Olena Ryepko | 4200 |
| Emily Harrington | 23.68- | 6960 | | Yulia Abramchuk | 5t5 6z6 | 7040 | | Valentina Yurina | 3360 |
| Akiyo Noguchi | 23.25+ | 5655 | | Vera Kotasova-Kostruhova | 5t9 6z9 | 5720 | | Edyta Ropek | 2730 |
| 4 | Olga Shalagina | 22.61 | 4785 | 4 | Renata Piszczek | 5t9 5z8 | 4840 | 4 |  Cuifang He | 2310 |
| 5 | Caroline Ciavaldini | 21.35 | 4437 | 5 | Anna Stöhr | 5t10 6z9 | 4488 | 5 | Anna Stenkovaya | 2142 |
| 6 | Sandrine Levet | 18.13- | 4089 | 6 | Olga Bibik | 4t4 6z6 | 4136 | 6 | Olesya Saulevich | 1974 |
| 7 |  Natalija Gros | 17.73 | 3741 | 7 | Tatiana Shemulinkina | 4t6 6z7 | 3784 | 7 | Lisa Knoche | 1806 |
| 8 | Katharina Saurwein | 17.73- | 3480 | 8 | Venera Chereshneva | 4t6 5z10 | 3520 | 8 |  Lenke Kucsera | 1680 |
| 9 | Yana Chereshneva | 17.05+ | 3219 | 9 | Esther Cruz Montalban | 4t8 6z18 | 3256 | 9 | Olga Zakharova | 1554 |
| 10 |  Muriel Sarkany | 16.51- | 2958 | 10 | Corinne Theroux | 4t8 4z7 | 2992 | 10 | Lucelia Blanco | 1428 |
| 11 | Elizabeth Asher | 4t8 4z8 | 2728 | |||||||
| 12 |  Jain Kim | 3t3 6z9 | 2464 | |||||||
| 13 | Yana Chereshneva | 3t4 5z | 2288 | |||||||
Bouldering is a form of rock climbing that is performed on small rock formations or artificial rock walls without the use of ropes or harnesses. While bouldering can be done without any equipment, most climbers use climbing shoes to help secure footholds, chalk to keep their hands dry and to provide a firmer grip, and bouldering mats to prevent injuries from falls. Unlike free solo climbing, which is also performed without ropes, bouldering problems are usually less than six metres (20 ft) tall. Traverses, which are a form of boulder problem, require the climber to climb horizontally from one end to another. Artificial climbing walls allow boulderers to climb indoors in areas without natural boulders. In addition, bouldering competitions take place in both indoor and outdoor settings.
Many climbing routes have a grade that reflects the technical difficulty—and in some cases the risks and commitment level—of the route. The first ascensionist can suggest a grade, but it will be amended to reflect the consensus view of subsequent ascents. While many countries with a strong tradition of climbing developed grading systems, a small number of grading systems have become internationally dominant for each type of climbing, which has contributed to the standardization of grades worldwide. Over the years, grades have consistently risen in all forms of climbing, helped by improvements in climbing technique and equipment.
Sport climbing is a type of free climbing in rock climbing where the lead climber clips into pre-drilled permanent bolts for their protection while ascending a route. Sport climbing differs from the riskier traditional climbing where the lead climber has to insert temporary protection equipment while ascending.
Rock climbing is a climbing sports discipline that involves ascending routes consisting of natural rock in an outdoor environment, or on artificial resin climbing walls in a mostly indoor environment. Routes are chronicled in guidebooks, and on online databases, with the details of how to climb the route, and who made the first ascent and the coveted first free ascent. Climbers will try to ascend a route onsight, however, a climber can spend years projecting a route before they make a redpoint ascent.
Competition climbing is a form of regulated rock climbing competition held indoors on purpose-built artificial climbing walls. The three competition climbing disciplines are lead climbing, bouldering, and speed climbing. The result of multiple disciplines can be used in a "combined" format to determine an all-round winner. Competition climbing is sometimes called "sport climbing", which is the name given to pre-bolted lead climbing.
In the history of rock climbing, the three main sub-disciplines – bouldering, single-pitch climbing, and big wall climbing – can trace their origins to late 19th-century Europe. Bouldering started in Fontainebleau, and was advanced by Pierre Allain in the 1930s, and John Gill in the 1950s. Big wall climbing started in the Dolomites, and was spread across the Alps in the 1930s by climbers such as Emilio Comici and Riccardo Cassin, and in the 1950s by Walter Bonatti, before reaching Yosemite where it was led in the 1950s to 1970s by climbers such as Royal Robbins. Single-pitch climbing started pre-1900 in both the Lake District and in Saxony, and by the late-1970s had spread widely with climbers such as Ron Fawcett (Britain), Bernd Arnold (Germany), Patrick Berhault (France), Ron Kauk and John Bachar (USA).
The IFSC Climbing World Championships are the biennial world championship event for competition climbing that is organized by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC). This event determines the male and female world champions in the three disciplines of competition climbing: competition lead climbing, competition bouldering, and competition speed climbing. Since 2012, a combined ranking is also determined, for climbers competing in all disciplines, and additional medals are awarded based on that ranking. The first event was organized in Frankfurt in 1991.
USA Climbing is the national governing body of the sport of competition climbing in the United States. As a 501(c)3 non-profit, they promote Sport Climbing which comprises three competition disciplines: bouldering, lead climbing, and speed climbing, in elite, youth and collegiate formats.
Angela "Angy" Eiter is an Austrian professional rock climber who specialises in competition climbing and sport climbing. In competition lead climbing, she won three IFSC World Cups in a row (2004–2006), and four IFSC World Championships. In 2011, she achieved her 25th win in World Cup and her 42nd podium. She is also one of the strongest sport climbers in the world, and in 2017, became the first-ever female in history to climb a 9b (5.15b) route, La Planta de Shiva. In 2020, she became the first-ever female in history to complete the first free ascent (FFA) of a 9b (5.15b) route, Madame Ching.
The IFSC Climbing European Championships are the biennial European championship for competition climbing organized by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC). The first competition was held in Frankfurt in 1992.
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